Which lower links to buy?

[Silvr Bullet]

So on a recent trip I bent my lower links and need to replace them. Does any one have any advice on this. I've looked at the metal tech, total chaos, and icon, but not really sure why one company is better than another especially for the prices. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thank

 

[Lexusbstrdchild]

I like shiny ones. Jokes aside I hear good things about MT.

 

[Silvr Bullet]

I like shiny ones. Jokes aside I hear good things about MT.

For the price metal techs seem like a great deal but I'm not sure if there is s reason they are so much less than the others

 

[cbielat]

I have Metaltech's lowers and uppers for their long travel set up. They're pretty beefy. All will do the same thing. They're less because there's no reason for them to be super pricy like the Icons. The reason the Icons are so expensive is because they're made out of billet aluminum.

 

[Silvr Bullet]

I have Metaltech's lowers and uppers for their long travel set up. They're pretty beefy. All will do the same thing. They're less because there's no reason for them to be super pricy like the Icons. The reason the Icons are so expensive is because they're made out of billet aluminum.

Thanks for the advice, why would icon use aluminum? Wouldn't it bend easier?

 

[cbielat]

Thanks for the advice, why would icon use aluminum? Wouldn't it bend easier?

It's solid billet. I have a solid billet adjustable track bar. Thing is beefy and heavy. It's not bending. Aluminum is also more expensive.

 

[STX4Runner]

You might also check out the Sonoran Steel ones. I have them and they're great. VERY stout, and they use new Toyota bushings so you don't have to worry about Johnny Joints wearing out and needing replacement.

 

[3wbdriver]

Thanks for the advice, why would icon use aluminum? Wouldn't it bend easier?

Icon's real reason for making these parts is racing. Thus they make them as light as possible while maintaining a strong component. We aftermarket buyers are just a bonus market for them.

 

[wfo9]

Think they are all about the same in function. No real tech here... The stock ones are super flimsy and bending one is extremely common if contact is ever made.

The offset design of the MT allow for more articulation if you are doing LT.

One thing to note. The johnny joints on the MT don't work with all lower link skids...

 

[Cheers!]

I wish someone would make a more affordable aluminum billet one compared to the Icons.

 

[Jeremy556]

I wish someone would make a more affordable aluminum billet one compared to the Icons.

Why? Seems like a poor application for aluminum. I think TC's Chromoly links would be the best strength/weight option around. They are still pricey, and I'll probably go with a DOM option.

 

[Silvr Bullet]

Thank you to all of you who posted your thoughts and explanations. This definately helped out a lot. It sounds like all of my options are good choices so it will come down to how much I want to spend and if I think I'll do long travel at some point. Cheers

 

[4R Play]

Toytec also makes aluminum lower and upper links and panhard.

Toytec Signature Rear Lower 7075 Aluminum Control Arms, 07+ FJ Cruiser, 03+ 4Runner (pair)

Stumbled on them yesterday. Hadn't heard about them before. Bit cheaper than Icon's.

 

[jbstrd]

If you are banging up your lower links, I would definitely spend a little bit more and get the link bracket skids as well. I run the MT offset links with the OPOR link bracket skids. They work well together and take some abuse. Good luck with your choice. Worth the small investment IMO.

 

[STX4Runner]

Good point on the link bracket skids. I have the Total Chaos ones, and they took a beating recently. Unfortunately, they did not handle said beating so well. One now has rotated down and will not stay in the proper orientation. I just got some RCI ones that screw into the frame rail at the front end so they will stay in place.

 

[jbstrd]

Good point on the link bracket skids. I have the Total Chaos ones, and they took a beating recently. Unfortunately, they did not handle said beating so well. One now has rotated down and will not stay in the proper orientation. I just got some RCI ones that screw into the frame rail at the front end so they will stay in place.

Yea, the OPOR ones don't connect to the frame either. However, the abuse I subjected them to in Moab was always either towards the rear of the vehicle or upwards so they did not budge.

 

[STX4Runner]

Yea, the OPOR ones don't connect to the frame either. However, the abuse I subjected them to in Moab was always either towards the rear of the vehicle or upwards so they did not budge.

Interesting. I still can't figure out what happened to mine to cause them to now hang down. It takes some effort to bang them back up into position, but after driving around they flop down again. Oh well, I will install the RCI ones and then see how they do in Moab this fall.

edit. just looked at the OPOR ones online. They're a direct copy of the TC ones I have that now rotate on the bolt. I assume the hits I put them through were also upwards or towards the rear.

 

[oljedi11950]

Did you check out guy in 4sale t4r Mstudt ?

 

[oljedi11950]

Oh nevermind

 

[jbstrd]

Interesting. I still can't figure out what happened to mine to cause them to now hang down. It takes some effort to bang them back up into position, but after driving around they flop down again. Oh well, I will install the RCI ones and then see how they do in Moab this fall.

edit. just looked at the OPOR ones online. They're a direct copy of the TC ones I have that now rotate on the bolt. I assume the hits I put them through were also upwards or towards the rear.

Hmm, weird. I am assuming you tightened the bolt to spec and used a nyloc nut? They definitely should not be moving while you are driving down the road.