Mine had some rubbing and made creaking sounds. I "massaged" the floor slightly with a blunt instrument to create a little extra clearance and it's been silent ever since.
White Knuckle sliders
- Thread starter DannyLlama
- Start date
Mine had some rubbing and made creaking sounds. I "massaged" the floor slightly with a blunt instrument to create a little extra clearance and it's been silent ever since.
YetiX
New member
I picked mine up from John yesterday (cash discount Baby!) and then installed them in my friend's shop. Took about an hour and 45 minutes to install the driver's side slider. The passenger side took about 20 minutes. I'm really impressed by how nice these look and they feel incredibly sturdy. I'll be testing them out next weekend in Big Bear. Can't wait!
blackoutt
New member
I have now officially used mine on rocks and trees. They are great and tough! From their customer service (even to me all the way over in Indiana) to their excellent product I tell everyone I can how awesome White Knuckle Offroad Products are. And no I'm no paid or sponsored by them in anyway, I just support good stuff when I get to since I also shit on the bad stuff all over the web too.
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YetiX
New member
I added 3M Walk Safe grip tape on mine this past weekend. Mrs. Yeti almost slipped getting out of the rig because the slider was wet. I like keeping Mrs. Yeti happy (she lets me buy more shit for my rig :biggrin1: ) so I added the grip tape by cutting out 4 oval-ish sections that more or less mimic the Sport Edition steps.
Albacore
New member
I'll resurrect the "U-bolts work fine on leaf springs" argument. Also, if properly torquing a U-bolt causes concern then weld-on sliders would be the only alternative. Bolt-on sliders into a threaded insert on the frame need to be properly tightened and checked occasionally.
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Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk
EJs16
New member
Let me rephrase, I guess not worried about "maintenance" more of are they gonna slide or move when hit. I guess I could always lay a bead on the mounts at the frame to insure, just worried about excessive movement.
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One of my sliders crashed down onto a pretty big rock. Zero movement.
Other than hammering the floorboards a little bit to fix the creaking/interference issue, I've never had to adjust or re-torque the u-bolts.
BackOff
New member
Hope I am not the one that made these U-bolt style sliders an issue, they work just fine.
Original install I may have not torqued them down enough, I dinged a big chunk of ice, up to the body, then the back door hit the slider.
The U-bolts, for me, are just a tad larger than the frame rails.
Added a set of RCI rear upper link sliders, just fit under the U-bolt, landed on a stump and it didn't move.
The rear doors on mine were really close with the extra top cover (diamond tread) its heavy too, as it is steel, aluminum would be nice for the top step tread...IMO.
No top tread plate, it would not have rubbed.
I really like em! I consider these and the skid plates as a form of insurance against bad moves and improper lines chosen.
Original install I may have not torqued them down enough, I dinged a big chunk of ice, up to the body, then the back door hit the slider.
The U-bolts, for me, are just a tad larger than the frame rails.
Added a set of RCI rear upper link sliders, just fit under the U-bolt, landed on a stump and it didn't move.
The rear doors on mine were really close with the extra top cover (diamond tread) its heavy too, as it is steel, aluminum would be nice for the top step tread...IMO.
No top tread plate, it would not have rubbed.
I really like em! I consider these and the skid plates as a form of insurance against bad moves and improper lines chosen.
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Folks running these - did you have any clearance issues on the driver side middle and rear brackets?
I just got a set for my 2004 T4R (non XREAS) and installed them this weekend. I did finally get the rear ubolt in place, but it is touching a hardline (not pinching, just underneath it and touching). And the middle ubolt is also touching the hardline(s).
My general thought is that these ubolts probably shouldn't be touching the lines. Right? I was assuming general vibration could wear a hole?
Should I shim them? If so, how/what material? I think the rear one will be particularly difficult to access.
Pictures here, poorly labeled: https://imgur.com/a/z7Lix - I could not get them to cooperate and display in a normal size in the browser, so didn't want to ruin the thread with giant pics.
I just got a set for my 2004 T4R (non XREAS) and installed them this weekend. I did finally get the rear ubolt in place, but it is touching a hardline (not pinching, just underneath it and touching). And the middle ubolt is also touching the hardline(s).
My general thought is that these ubolts probably shouldn't be touching the lines. Right? I was assuming general vibration could wear a hole?
Should I shim them? If so, how/what material? I think the rear one will be particularly difficult to access.
Pictures here, poorly labeled: https://imgur.com/a/z7Lix - I could not get them to cooperate and display in a normal size in the browser, so didn't want to ruin the thread with giant pics.
YetiX
New member
It's been a year since I installed mine, but I recall the instructions said to slightly move the hard lines. I recall one of mine I was able to bend the bracket to get clearance. I think I may have shimmed the other but I don't specifically recall. I know it was a bit of a ***** to install the driver's side.
