y=mx+b
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Nice job.
That rust is nasty.
Thanks! She is a tad crusty, but thankfully no frame holes. Thanks for the help on my question post from earlier, hope you can get your Whitelines installed sometime soon!
Nice job.
That rust is nasty.
Nicely done sir! You should get Senior Member status for this write up. Getting all those pictures with description in there with the right format isn't easy.
That's exactly what it's all about!! Pay it forward brother! Never too much info on a task this difficult either. I have learned a ton about vehicles in general on this forum, let alone the 3 different gens that I own. I've been wrenching as a hobby and money saving endeavor for 30+ years and I'm still learning on here every day.Thanks, that means a lot! I have learned so much from this forum, so this is a way I can give back to the community. Writing this up was also a good way to keep me busy and out of trouble, so that's an added bonus! I'm glad the level detail seems appropriate, I was worried that it was going to be information overload.
That's exactly what it's all about!! Pay it forward brother! Never too much info on a task this difficult either. I have learned a ton about vehicles in general on this forum, let alone the 3 different gens that I own. I've been wrenching as a hobby and money saving endeavor for 30+ years and I'm still learning on here every day.
[MENTION=165]momo.75[/MENTION] this thread should be a sticky in the maintenance section, and maybe a Senior Member tag for [MENTION=429038]y=mx+b[/MENTION] lol. This is one well thought out and meticulously done thread.
I've still got my OEMs, I might try this project soon.
Thanks Mo!! Pretty cool stuff.It is stuck! I did move it to the maintenance section. I still have my stock LCA's as well so I will be utilizing this thread as well. Thanks for all the documentation!
It is stuck! I did move it to the maintenance section. I still have my stock LCA's as well so I will be utilizing this thread as well. Thanks for all the documentation!
Thanks for the sticky! Hopefully it is helpful when it comes time for you LCA bushings! I'll change over all my in-page linking so it doesn't redirect to the 4th gen section and then back to maintenance again.
Is there a collected thread of 4th gen specific maintenance anywhere? I'm planning on doing some more writeups for some maintenance items, maybe collecting some writeups is something I could work on?
That’s a sweet write up....really nice job! I have 3 x Gen 4’s and a Gen 5 that I like to wrench on. I popped in two CV axles into one of my 2005’s yesterday and I was looking at those LCA bushings and thinking “man those things have to be about rotted out by now, but those would be a ***** to replace.” I’m thinking I will let them ride until they fall out on their own!
Thanks, I appreciate it! You got quite a nice 4runner collection going on! There is definitely a time commitment to replacing them, but nothing is too difficult. I think earlier I estimated 12-13 hrs all together for both sides from looking at my picture timestamps. I have also wondered how difficult it would be to buy the 1A Auto arms for ~$175 and throw the whitelines in there. Having a second set to work on would negate the downtime, and brand new arms might make it easier to remove the shells.
Thats what i was thinking almost... 2 years ago... already, where does the time go?
Wet looking LBJ sent me down this path.
Got the 555 LBJs on a Rockauto, close out (forget what i paid) and the LCAs there for $56 each. Paid a buckforty for the WL bushings.
Has been sitting in the garage collecting dust, all ready to go.
Guess i havent gotten bored enough yet to install em.
I could not get the large side bushing out of the new LCA with the 'jack' method hence that pic i showed you in that other thread, removing the bushing flange, actually worked really well.
If you use your OEM arms your going to need to get with it it you ever want to drive again.![]()
Great write up. I really appreciate this and will have to put it to the test soon. Recently replaced my uca’s with a new pair from JBA. The alignment guy said he couldn’t align the front end because the lower bushings were badly worn(original with 129,000mi) and would fall out of alignment if I hit a bump or pothole or something. Anyways I’m ordering the Whiteline bushings because I can’t afford high end lca’s at this moment. If this wasn’t my daily driver I’d weld in TC cam tab gussets while it was apart but for now I can’t destroy a pair of tires on my upcoming road trip to my property in northern Nevada. Thanks again for taking the time to chronicle your journey and experience.
Nice! No rust is certainly a plus to the desert, and you probably won't have to go through the painting headache either. I hate painting for some reason lol. Mine spent most of its life in PA and is now in VA, so shes a tad crusty. You can most likely skip all the acid stuff which is another bonus. Good that you have another ride just in case, a little family carpool never hurt anyone lol.White lines are ordered. Lower ball joints in stock locally. I live in southern Nevada so most weekends here are beautiful lol. I may not have all the rust and crust like yours did as my T4R has lived its life in the desert. I don’t do a lot of hard core wheeling, mostly “overlanding”, camping, hunting etc. so I think the cam tab gussets may be overkill but you never know. If I can’t tackle this in a weekend then I’ll take my wife’s Scion and leave her stranded haha.
Just completed my bushing and lower ball joint replacement. Thanks again for the great write up. All four of my lca bushings came out in one piece. The bottle jack/heat method works well for this. Also I started spraying PB Blaster on all the bushings and ball joints several days ago. My adjustment bolts/cams were in excellent shape, All I did was clean and lube them upon re-installation. The ball joint press I rented from O’reilly Auto Parts didn’t have too many options and I ended up making a sleeve out of 2.5” id steel tube to help remove the ball joint. A BFH is also a big help. I used a 4# hammer and a Mapp gas torch to persuade the ball joints out. I used 1/2” and 3/4” plumbers fitting brushes to clean the orifices of the intermediate plates. I had a build up of thread locker in mine. I use Super Clean degreaser to clean everything and mineral spirits before painting. I used VHT epoxy paint in gloss black on the lca’s and intermediate plates. I used Lucas Heavy Duty grease on moving parts except where the grease Whiteline includes with their bushings was necessary. A couple things to point out the ball joint “C” clip will shoot out upon removal. The first one shot about 30’ and the second one about 20’ so be careful. Also if the OP will please include safety glasses on his list especially if you’re using power tools cause no one wants to lose an eye.