Who Actually Follows 10,000 mile oil change schedule?
- Thread starter EB1151
- Start date
Scuba6
Member
Did my 10K maintenance yesterday, having bought my truck in November. I also priced the extended maintenance plans again that they tried to push on me when I bought the truck. Unless I'm missing something on the numbers, it's a huge rip-off. I plan to do some additional searching on here and reading to see if I'm just missing something.
harper7
Senior Member
I take into considerations of how/where and the conditions I drove in to when I change my oil and filter. This time 5k miles but usually 7.5k miles as it's almost always dusty here and where I go offroad.
Since I changed my oil and filter on 7/10 and I drove almost 5000 miles and went through a dust storm in west Texas, crossed 2 or 3 deserts with temps over 115 ,up along the CA coast taking in the salt air then back across the Sierras and at least 3-400 miles of dusty or muddy offroading at high elevations in Colorado.
Then come home to Texas where we are breaking practically every known record for heat and drought.Still counting but so far,52 days over 100 and 15 of those over 105 and the least amount of rain in the last 12 months dating back to the dust bowl of 1956......It's sucks!:flamethrwoer2:
IMO my truck qualifies,at least partly, for "Special Operating Conditions" in the manual .It's whatever makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside that really counts though.
My oil is very dark at the moment and when I cleaned my K&N air filter when I got back,it had about an 1/8" of dusty dirt stuck to it.
My baby is getting some clean oil and a fresh filter very soon. Matter of a fact she is getting all of her gear oils changed in the very near future. She deserves it!
From the maintenance schedule....
5,000 miles or 6 months
Additional Maintenance Items for
Special Operating Conditions 2
Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:
Inspect ball joints and dust covers
Inspect drive shaft boots (4WD)
Inspect engine air filter
Inspect steering linkage and boots
Lubricate propeller shaft 3
Re-torque propeller shaft bolt 3
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body
1 Reset the oil replacement reminder light (“MAINT REQD”) or the message “OIL MAINTENANCE REQUIRED” on the
multi-information display after engine oil replacement.
2 Perform these service items only if you drive primarily under the conditions indicated.
3 Includes operating on roads which road salt has been applied.
4 Refer to “Engine Coolant” in the “Explanation of Maintenance Items” section in the back of this guide for more
information.
Since I changed my oil and filter on 7/10 and I drove almost 5000 miles and went through a dust storm in west Texas, crossed 2 or 3 deserts with temps over 115 ,up along the CA coast taking in the salt air then back across the Sierras and at least 3-400 miles of dusty or muddy offroading at high elevations in Colorado.
Then come home to Texas where we are breaking practically every known record for heat and drought.Still counting but so far,52 days over 100 and 15 of those over 105 and the least amount of rain in the last 12 months dating back to the dust bowl of 1956......It's sucks!:flamethrwoer2:
IMO my truck qualifies,at least partly, for "Special Operating Conditions" in the manual .It's whatever makes you feel all warm and fuzzy inside that really counts though.
My oil is very dark at the moment and when I cleaned my K&N air filter when I got back,it had about an 1/8" of dusty dirt stuck to it.
My baby is getting some clean oil and a fresh filter very soon. Matter of a fact she is getting all of her gear oils changed in the very near future. She deserves it!
From the maintenance schedule....
5,000 miles or 6 months
Additional Maintenance Items for
Special Operating Conditions 2
Driving on dirt roads or dusty roads:
Inspect ball joints and dust covers
Inspect drive shaft boots (4WD)
Inspect engine air filter
Inspect steering linkage and boots
Lubricate propeller shaft 3
Re-torque propeller shaft bolt 3
Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body
1 Reset the oil replacement reminder light (“MAINT REQD”) or the message “OIL MAINTENANCE REQUIRED” on the
multi-information display after engine oil replacement.
2 Perform these service items only if you drive primarily under the conditions indicated.
3 Includes operating on roads which road salt has been applied.
4 Refer to “Engine Coolant” in the “Explanation of Maintenance Items” section in the back of this guide for more
information.
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I'm at 21,000miles. I've done 5k mile changes with 0W-20 so far. I'm running this one out to 7,500 miles and I'll send a sample off to blackstone labs. I'll do a 2nd 7,500 mile change (30k) and see how things look with blackstone again. Assuming all is well, I'll push out to 10,000 miles. The thing that makes me conservative is the fact I have such a short commute. If I had a longer commute where the engine always got warmed up to operating temps, I'd feel better about doing the 10k changes. If I get good data back from 2 changes w/ blackstone, I'll try again at 10k.
I plan on doing a transmission fluid change at 30k (I think that is what the service manual recommends). I'll have to double check.
I plan on doing a transmission fluid change at 30k (I think that is what the service manual recommends). I'll have to double check.
Foques
New member
No problem at all
and yes sir, I had my oil inspected every 10K miles, I ran Royal purple and Redline at all times.
Amsoil for me!
I change the filter every 5k, change oil every year or 15k-20k whichever comes first. I have done this with all my prior vehicles and have had the oil inspected...no problems.
I would not suggest this with other oils, but with Amsoil it works. The key to getting the most miles out of oil is to replace the filter on a consistent basis. However, if you do run it hard in dusty, dirty areas, it wouldnt hurt to change more frequently.
I do think that every 5k with a quality synthetic is overkill.
I change the filter every 5k, change oil every year or 15k-20k whichever comes first. I have done this with all my prior vehicles and have had the oil inspected...no problems.
I would not suggest this with other oils, but with Amsoil it works. The key to getting the most miles out of oil is to replace the filter on a consistent basis. However, if you do run it hard in dusty, dirty areas, it wouldnt hurt to change more frequently.
I do think that every 5k with a quality synthetic is overkill.
Here is a question, what about time? I understand syn oil will last many more miles then Dino oil, but in the past and even currently, many are saying 10k miles or one year.....whichever comes first? Does the syn oil break down over time, notwithstanding mileage? My guess is that it will hold up for at least a couple of years, and mileage or "special circumstances" should really be the determining factor. Thanks in advance for your insight.
Foques
New member
Oil Analyzers, Inc. - Oil Analysis, Oil Testing Services
Turbine Oil : Used Oil Analysis : Oil Test : Oil Sample : Oil Testing : Analysts, Inc
I did through both, and liked the latter one best, but I don't know if anyone can get their membership.. never checked into that.
thebwlife
Senior Member
Boomer Sooner too ya, have you tried any of the KN pre filters, they worked wonders in the sand on buggies and quads, if i had a cone style filter it would be a must. I'm feeling your pain up here 106 here today 56% humidity.
1engineer
Moderator
When dealing with time instead of milage the more important items become seals, grease points, etc. A synthetic will not "break down" like traditional oil but the other maintenance items as listed in Harper's above post need to happen. While you are doing those other items you might as well change the oil too as one oil change/yr is no big deal or cost.
Just had mine done at 10,400 or so this week for first oil change. Don't bother with the vouchers, they don't ask for them.
The free maintenance is only good for 2 oil changes at this rate.
My invoice was for 90 bucks. Labor was 30, parts 60. Think the oil was like 7 bucks a quart.
Had a Caddilac SRX previously tha t had synthetic, changed at 7500 and cost about 80 bucks. The Northstar V8 had "mobile 1 only" on the oil cap. Wonder how much much mobil one paid GM for that?
My Honda only gets changes at 7500 per the computer with non-syn oil. figure if non syn can go 7500, I'm not going to worry about 10K on syn.
The free maintenance is only good for 2 oil changes at this rate.
My invoice was for 90 bucks. Labor was 30, parts 60. Think the oil was like 7 bucks a quart.
Had a Caddilac SRX previously tha t had synthetic, changed at 7500 and cost about 80 bucks. The Northstar V8 had "mobile 1 only" on the oil cap. Wonder how much much mobil one paid GM for that?
My Honda only gets changes at 7500 per the computer with non-syn oil. figure if non syn can go 7500, I'm not going to worry about 10K on syn.
Thanks number 1.....well said by you and Harper. My rig is work rig around the house. Not used often.(I am retired and generally lazy) So oil changes as well be far and few in between. Just that much more savings. It will be hard to justify an oil change every year since it has been 1.8 years and only 5,500 miles so far. I did change the oil at 5k, notwithstanding Toyota's recommendations. I think the first oil change during a reasonable break in period is a good thing, just in case there are "particulates" in the oil. Now it will happen every 10K no matter how many years it takes me to get there.......thanks again and be safe.
Ducmonsta
New member
Just out of curiosity, why do some people that believe in the 10k oil service interval, also believe in changing the oil for "break in"? There is nothing in the manual that states this needs to be done. Do the Toyota engineers know that this is not necessary? I guess I'm just wondering why we follow only some of the manual? I also don't see at any point in our "recommended" services for an alignment. Does that mean the guys that follow the factory recommended services never have to do an alignment unless there are worn parts?
Did you know that our motors are allowed to consume up to one quart of oil every 600 miles? That is what the Toyota engineers say is allowed, anyway. So at no point in my manual does it say I even have to check the oil level in between the 10k services. If Toyota says it's ok to consume, never have to check it, and wait til 10k, theoretically, I wouldn't have any oil left in my engine. Btw, Toyota states in my manual, that a newer engine will consume more oil.
Bottom line is, do what you believe in oil services. It's your truck. No one here is right or wrong when it comes to your piece of mind.
Did you know that our motors are allowed to consume up to one quart of oil every 600 miles? That is what the Toyota engineers say is allowed, anyway. So at no point in my manual does it say I even have to check the oil level in between the 10k services. If Toyota says it's ok to consume, never have to check it, and wait til 10k, theoretically, I wouldn't have any oil left in my engine. Btw, Toyota states in my manual, that a newer engine will consume more oil.
Bottom line is, do what you believe in oil services. It's your truck. No one here is right or wrong when it comes to your piece of mind.
Hmmm, there must be more than one version of the manual out there?
1000MPH
Senior Member
Maybe you weren't completely accurate but I get where you're going Ducmonsta.
What I'm pretty much amazed by is that a company like Toyota can so utterly fail at this "transition" to longer OCI's.
First, there was the new 0W-20 oil requirements and none of the dealers had it in stock.
and, it seems only US has this oil spec'd. Is it purely for CAFE standards?
Then they had the oil but not in bulk and it retailed at $7 qt.
Corporate decides to offer free 2 yr maintenance but allegedly pays the dealer only $20 per OC.
Then they change the OCI to 10K but all of the manuals and coupon books (at least the early '10 4Runner) are printed with 5K.
Don't forget the cars are programmed to have the Maintenance light come on at 5K.
What else? I'm sure I'm missing something.
I think 10K might be too long for the driving I do but won't find out if I don't keep the car its entire life and compare to 100's of other.
Simply too many variables to come up with an accurate OCI for this entire group. Like the saying goes, "your mileage may vary" .
You could send in your oil every 2.5-5K for analysis but for most it's easier to change it.
I kinda like this new meter I've been hearing about in other cars.
If you guys like more oil talk I suggest checking out the bobistheoilguy website. It'll drive you crazy.:rant:
What I'm pretty much amazed by is that a company like Toyota can so utterly fail at this "transition" to longer OCI's.
First, there was the new 0W-20 oil requirements and none of the dealers had it in stock.
and, it seems only US has this oil spec'd. Is it purely for CAFE standards?
Then they had the oil but not in bulk and it retailed at $7 qt.
Corporate decides to offer free 2 yr maintenance but allegedly pays the dealer only $20 per OC.
Then they change the OCI to 10K but all of the manuals and coupon books (at least the early '10 4Runner) are printed with 5K.
Don't forget the cars are programmed to have the Maintenance light come on at 5K.
What else? I'm sure I'm missing something.
I think 10K might be too long for the driving I do but won't find out if I don't keep the car its entire life and compare to 100's of other.
Simply too many variables to come up with an accurate OCI for this entire group. Like the saying goes, "your mileage may vary" .
You could send in your oil every 2.5-5K for analysis but for most it's easier to change it.
I kinda like this new meter I've been hearing about in other cars.
If you guys like more oil talk I suggest checking out the bobistheoilguy website. It'll drive you crazy.:rant:
Curt Sauve
New member
I'm going to have my dealer do the absolute minimum required maintainence on mine. And then I'm going to drive it like I stole it until 2014, and then trade it in for a new one. Life is to short to worry about oil.
