Who runs NON-OEM LCA?

[macshemi57]

OK OK like thread says who runs NON-OEM lower control arms? before I get torn up for lack of searching I know this has been covered before and here is why I am starting this thread.
Obviously my lower control arm bushings are shot. I was always under the impression I would just buy the 70$ dorman lower control arms and call it good. well then came the time to purchase them and I figured id dig some more to see how these guys held up and from what I have gathered I shouldn't waste my money on them so here are my options.
1) purchase new OEM LCA's - 170$ a piece - sure there expensive but I don't have to fight old rusty arms and press in and out bushings, plus I have oem piece of mind.
2) purchase dorman LCA - 70$ per side - then get a whiteline bushing kit - 70$ - and press the whitelines in ( or even go OEM bushings with this route ). this way I could prepare the new arms before I tear my truck apart and swap in the new arms when im ready.
3) bite the bullet and purchase the whitelines or OEM kit and press in and replace the bushings in my old LCA.
The reason I am attracted to new arms is the ease of installation and time required to mess with old bushings and all of that
so my question has anyone found a non oem arm that has held up? dorman, reybestos, beck, moog?
im half assed tempted to just buy the oem arms and call it done.
Thanks for the advise.
Mitch

 

[T4R2014]

Your most cost-effective option is to buy the Whitelines and press them into your old LCA's. The Dorman bushings turn to playdoh in short time.

 

[macshemi57]

thanks for the quick reply. Nothing new with my situations here. I kinda of figured cheapest would be that route and easiest would be oem LCA route

 

[JBurt]

I went through this problem a year or two ago, but only on the drivers side. After lots of looking I decided to go with poly bushings in my old control arms.

After I got it tore apart I found that you had to have OEM bushings to reuse some of the parts withe the polys, and one of the 7 PO's of my vehicle has changed them with some bushing incompatible with poly bushings. So my truck sat without LCA's while I ordered OEM bushings.

Unfortunately I couldn't find a way to tell the incompatible bushings without taking them out.

The OEM bushings have been great. Plus this summer my passenger side bushings went bad and after doing the drivers side the passenger side went really fast. A bottle jack and a vice make it easy. Thats it.

How rusty are your OEM ones?

You could just throw caution to the wind and by a long travel suspension. Then you'd get new LCA's. Just kidding. Too expensive.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Fellow member Big Fish All Day can tell you about those by Dorman and I don't think his experience was a good one.

 

[macshemi57]

I went through this problem a year or two ago, but only on the drivers side. After lots of looking I decided to go with poly bushings in my old control arms.

After I got it tore apart I found that you had to have OEM bushings to reuse some of the parts withe the polys, and one of the 7 PO's of my vehicle has changed them with some bushing incompatible with poly bushings. So my truck sat without LCA's while I ordered OEM bushings.

Unfortunately I couldn't find a way to tell the incompatible bushings without taking them out.

The OEM bushings have been great. Plus this summer my passenger side bushings went bad and after doing the drivers side the passenger side went really fast. A bottle jack and a vice make it easy. Thats it.

How rusty are your OEM ones?

You could just throw caution to the wind and by a long travel suspension. Then you'd get new LCA's. Just kidding. Too expensive.

My oem ones are in pretty rough shape they are Illinois suspension components with 190k on them. for a 190k truck that's been in central IL its whole life its in great shape, I also plan on keeping this as my 4x4/winter vehicle/bullshit farm vehicle for a while, with that being said im a firm believer in the one time only meathod. do it right the first time.
when I replace the lower arms or bushing ( depending what route I go with ) im also throwing in my LR uca's and napa otre and itre as well as lower OEM ball joints.
im just stuck. spend the 70$ and fight old rusty cam bolts that are probably seized. and save 270$
or drop the 340$ and know the bushing and arms are brand new oem, quicker, easier, OEM piece of mind.

 

[JBurt]

You'll have to fight old rusty cam bolts either way. You might want to buy new ones of those also.

 

[macshemi57]

You'll have to fight old rusty cam bolts either way. You might want to buy new ones of those also.

that is my plan. as well as new LBJ bolts

 

[masphx]

I'm in the process of replacing my LCA bushings right now along with installing a lift. Let me tell you the rack and pinion is hell removing the two rear bolts! I'm going with the Whiteline Bushings. Took the arms to a mechanic to have them pressed out and the new ones pressed in. He was not thrilled about me putting in the poly bushings. Advised me to go OEM. Hoping for the best as I really don't want to do this whole process again.

 

[JamesDean91]

I'm running white lines have 3k miles on them so far and they look new still and ride great.

 

[macshemi57]

Ok well putting a little spin on my thread here since I don't wanna start a brand new one.
1) does anyone know how many cam bolts I should order?
There a three piece assembly do I need just two or four?
2) with that being said, has anyone used non-oem can bolts? Rock auto and various others have some available and if I need 4 new ones from Dallas parts of Toyota will run me Tons!

 

[coinball]

Don't run the Dorman ones, the bushings are too soft and deflect under normal driving causing you to have to counter steer under braking.

After that mistake I went to new Toyota LCA's and called it a day.

 

[macshemi57]

Don't run the Dorman ones, the bushings are too soft and deflect under normal driving causing you to have to counter steer under braking.

After that mistake I went to new Toyota LCA's and called it a day.

That's my plan. I'm just biting the bullet and getting the oem lca-my 4runner will love me-but my wallet doesn't..
170$ per side..
that's why I was seeing if anyone has rock auto cam bolts.. to save some money.

 

[Mgyver1]

Here's a reason to not consider Doorman LCAs. This is courtesy of [MENTION=96608]MandAtaco[/MENTION] who had a death steer problem after installing one, when braking the truck would dart hard to one side.
2000 4Runner New Dorman Vs Old Toyota OEM Control Arm Bushing - YouTube

 

[macshemi57]

Here's a reason to not consider Doorman LCAs. This is courtesy of [MENTION=96608]MandAtaco[/MENTION] who had a death steer problem after installing one, when braking the truck would dart hard to one side.
2000 4Runner New Dorman Vs Old Toyota OEM Control Arm Bushing - YouTube

Hey thanks for the video. I'll be getting oem arms for sure
it's just a real b**** if I gotta buy 4 new cam bolts
so does anyone know if I need 4 or 2?

 

[ARC]

Ok well putting a little spin on my thread here since I don't wanna start a brand new one.
1) does anyone know how many cam bolts I should order?
There a three piece assembly do I need just two or four?
2) with that being said, has anyone used non-oem can bolts? Rock auto and various others have some available and if I need 4 new ones from Dallas parts of Toyota will run me Tons!

You need 4 cams, 4 cam bolts and 4 sleeves. I ordered mine from camel back and don't recall it being too terrible price wise.

 

[ARC]

You need 4 cams, 4 cam bolts and 4 sleeves. I ordered mine from camel back and don't recall it being too terrible price wise.

That being said probably all of it is reusable except the sleeves. That is the part that ends up froze in the LCA bushings. I also really recommend the whiteline kit for bushings.

 

[macshemi57]

That being said probably all of it is reusable except the sleeves. That is the part that ends up froze in the LCA bushings. I also really recommend the whiteline kit for bushings.

AND THIS IS WHY I DONT WANT TO BUY NEW CAM BOLTS!!!
https://tps.toyotaofdallas.com/memberservices/index.cfm?action=cart_login&storefrontShippingMethodid_0=0&siteid=214074&redirect=https%3A%2F%2Ftps.toyotaofdallas.com%2Fshoppingcart%2Findex.cfm%3Faction%3Dcheckout%26siteid%3D214074

140$ for all 4 new shipped, i havent checked camelback yet.
i highly doubt mine are salvageable,
SOO has anyone used aftermarket or non-OEM cam bolts? ive seena few posts on here regarding them.

 

[ARC]

AND THIS IS WHY I DONT WANT TO BUY NEW CAM BOLTS!!!
https://tps.toyotaofdallas.com/memberservices/index.cfm?action=cart_login&storefrontShippingMethodid_0=0&siteid=214074&redirect=https%3A%2F%2Ftps.toyotaofdallas.com%2Fshoppingcart%2Findex.cfm%3Faction%3Dcheckout%26siteid%3D214074

140$ for all 4 new shipped, i havent checked camelback yet.
i highly doubt mine are salvageable,
SOO has anyone used aftermarket or non-OEM cam bolts? ive seena few posts on here regarding them.

We can't see your cart... but I would not assume they are bad. None of mine were.

 

[JBurt]

Here's camelback. Items 14,15, and 16. However like was stated before, you probably only need the sleeve, which is 15 on the diagram. $12 each.