Who runs NON-OEM LCA?

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

AND THIS IS WHY I DONT WANT TO BUY NEW CAM BOLTS!!!
https://tps.toyotaofdallas.com/memberservices/index.cfm?action=cart_login&storefrontShippingMethodid_0=0&siteid=214074&redirect=https%3A%2F%2Ftps.toyotaofdallas.com%2Fshoppingcart%2Findex.cfm%3Faction%3Dcheckout%26siteid%3D214074

140$ for all 4 new shipped, i havent checked camelback yet.
i highly doubt mine are salvageable,
SOO has anyone used aftermarket or non-OEM cam bolts? ive seena few posts on here regarding them.

You need 4 of these:

CAM SUB-ASSY, FRONT SUSPENSION TOE ADJUST 48409-35050 4 1995.11- RZN18#, VZN18# $11.55


http://www.toyomotorparts.com/Page_...=200002&PaintCode=K73&TrimCode=LF45&VAID=3560

The bolt and end lock nut should be ok. I would only replace the ones that are frozen in the LCA bushings and remove and clean up the ones that still move fine. Why do you say they're not salvageable? Have you loosened them (marking their position first) and tried to turn the turn them side to side?

I replaced just my LCA bushings with OEM. It was not easy. Only one of my sleeves was frozen. Replaced that sleeve only. Cleaned up the other parts and when I reassembled everything I used anti-seize.

 

[Lindenwood]

Just to clarify, the main issue with these cheap LCAs was the crappy bushings, right?

I am thinking about ordering a set of generic LCAs and putting in some Whiteline bushings. This is mostly because I really am dreading trying to get the old bushings out of my rusty LCAs. This is my daily, so minimizing downtime is important.

 

[squabeggz]

I was considering the same until i saw this on here...http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/226110-ctr-aftermarket-lower-control-arms.html

More than just crappy bushings.

Not taking that chance, so i'm currently refurbishing my old rusty ones and going the whiteline route.

 

[Lindenwood]

Eep! Yup! Thanks!

 

[T4R2014]

Your most cost-effective option is to buy the Whitelines and press them into your old LCA's. The Dorman bushings turn to playdoh in short time.

Wow I was high. Screw that. Buy the Dormans and install Whitelines. No one should bother fighting that rusted garbage. That aftermarket arm failure is baseless af. No brand name given at all, but his sig pic looks like he beats the shit out of his 4Runner. Not all aftermarket is the same.

 

[mtbtim]

Wow I was high. Screw that. Buy the Dormans and install Whitelines. No one should bother fighting that rusted garbage. That aftermarket arm failure is baseless af. No brand name given at all, but his sig pic looks like he beats the shit out of his 4Runner. Not all aftermarket is the same.

It all depends on your tool arsenal. If you have a Harbor Freight press, a press sleeve kit, a large bearing splitter and a butane torch, you can swap the bushings out of the OEM LCAs no problem. I just did my second set of LCAs this way a few days ago. I also contend you can do it with just a bottle jack and a torch, but there's been enough people that have destroyed their LCAs this way that I'm not sure if the bottle jack works well for all people.

I personally wouldn't go with aftermarket LCAs.

 

[Bandit Runner]

Just to clarify, the main issue with these cheap LCAs was the crappy bushings, right?

I am thinking about ordering a set of generic LCAs and putting in some Whiteline bushings. This is mostly because I really am dreading trying to get the old bushings out of my rusty LCAs. This is my daily, so minimizing downtime is important.

I have a pair of OEM LCA's that I will be putting up for sale soon. I have already pressed out the bushings, so they will be ready to have some Whitelines pressed in, if you want to. Let me know if you are interested.

 

[T4R2014]

I personally wouldn't go with aftermarket LCAs.

Being in California opens up more possibilities. Trying to press out those bushings from a rust belt vehicle is a whole different ball game. Rust is tougher than loctite. Not worth the labor.

 

[mtbtim]

Being in California opens up more possibilities. Trying to press out those bushings from a rust belt vehicle is a whole different ball game. Rust is tougher than loctite. Not worth the labor.

I don't know. Every bushing I've pressed out has plenty of rust on the sleeve. Heat is your friend when pressing out control arm bushings and you don't need that much to make a big difference in the amount of force required to get the bushings out.

 

[T4R2014]

I don't know. Every bushing I've pressed out has plenty of rust on the sleeve. Heat is your friend when pressing out control arm bushings and you don't need that much to make a big difference in the amount of force required to get the bushings out.

Try bushing that went through that brine mixture they put out here. You might even damage the arm trying to remove it. It's just not worth the labor to any shop.

 

[Wikano]

Just chiming in on aftermarket LCAs. I bought a set of Beck Arnely LCAs from rockauto for $220 shipped and they seemed to be just as good as OEM plus it was nice to have fresh coat of paint instead of looking at my old chipped one. With over 10k on the new LCAs, I have had no complaints.

At the time of purchasing I didn't have a press but I still think it would have been worth it to just swap new LCAs in instead of having to wrestle with replacing the bushings. Basically fewer unknowns and less-down time (important if its your daily driver).

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,1998,4runner,2.7l+l4,1317453,suspension,control+arm,10401

 

[Wikano]

 

[squabeggz]

Thanks for the side by side pic. Those look ok...that said, your OEMs look immaculate compared to mine.

also, yes... one photo of a ripped apart aftermarket shouldn't be a blanket statement that they are all garbage. If i didn't already have a press and all the other tools required to press my old rusty ones out, i would have definitely considered the rock auto/whiteline route much more.

It has also been retired from daily driving, so i have the time.

General consensus seems to be that the aftermarket bushings are the biggest crap factor.

Non daily + time and tools = refurb your old OEMs
Daily + offroad use = OEM or decent name aftermarket w/replaced bushings.
Mall crawling = probably never have to deal with it because they probably dont own a 3rd gen anymore :biggrin2: kidding...sort of...

 

[wettRunner]

View attachment 313959

Did these come with the bushings already pressed in the arm?
Also what did you do for a new ball joint? (if you replaced it..)

 

[wettRunner]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=9158340&cc=1357455&jsn=10846

Has anyone run these ball joints by MEVOTECH?

EDIT* just realized they are upper ball joints...

question still stands however

 

[Mudeprived]

View attachment 313959

Have you tested the bushings to see if they have alot of deflection like the Dorman's?

 

[Wikano]

Did these come with the bushings already pressed in the arm?
Also what did you do for a new ball joint? (if you replaced it..)

Yes they were already pressed in. I had replaced my ball joint earlier (I recommend using the OEM brand ball joint splitter)

 

[Wikano]

Have you tested the bushings to see if they have alot of deflection like the Dorman's?

The bushings felt very solid with little deflection. Much better than my old OEM bushings.

 

[rdruss]

Non- Oem LCA's

Been running a IAA Auto on passenger side since July 2017, no problems so far.
I'm highway only. Came with all bushings installed and a ball joint installed. I pulled the boot away some and used a needle nose on grease gun to add some extra grease to ball joint before I installed.
The arm looked very oem.
Less than $100.00, so if doesn't last all that long can replace with another!

 

[Devbot]

Don't mean to beat a dead horse, but anybody try TRQ arms? OEM is ungodly pricey now (around $200 per)
I've heard getting the bushings out of these control arms is total hell and most advise just replacing the whole unit for the sake of all involved.