Will a 3rd gen ever be smooth on the highway?

[A.Wilson013]

To answer the question of "Will a 3rd gen ever be smooth on the highway?"

Yes. I am liftedwith some 33" Duratracs and stuff. I can take my hands off the wheel at 85 (you know, to text and stuff) and hold a perfectly straight line without a shimmy or shake in the world.


Mostly because I got a driveline from [MENTION=78895]DeathCougar[/MENTION] after "lubing my driveshaft." And by that I mean severely overlubing my driveshaft.

 

[pluton]

The first thing I'd check would be the wheel balance job.
I've had to have balancing re-done many, many times.

 

[Ed_C]

I did try that, No change... I understand that factory rims are very difficult to balance correctly so im almost ready to buy some different rims but we will see.

Not true. The ones who claim it's difficult don't have the right tools to do the job properly. Factory wheels require a lugcentric adapter to do it right,using a the usual cone adapters are a hit or miss. In my experience even balancing aftermarket Toyota truck wheels with the lugcentric adapter was the best method.

Did the shop give you the results of the road force measurements? Did they match the tires to the wheels?

 

[vanion2]

I can take my hands off the wheel at 85 (you know, to text and stuff) and hold a perfectly straight line without a shimmy or shake in the world.

:nono: I hope you're an organ donor and ask that you avoid driving through New Mexico. Especially when I am driving my motorcycle. Texting + driving = Fail.

Back on topic though, I just put new tires on my 4R and get a shimmy at about 68-70 mph when I didn't from the old tires. I suspect it's just a balancing issue that I will address with the Discount Tire I was at when I get my new locking lugs installed. Other than that I have no problems on the highway.

 

[CallMeAnEngineer]

You're complaining about vibration on a vehicle that was made more than 10 years ago, and wasnt exactly designed as a luxury SUV.

 

[BrianSD_42]

Its not a tire problem and this is not a thread about retreads. Seems as though anytime i post something no matter the subject som

I don't know dude. It's pretty suspect. I've had my 4Runner 10+ years , ran at least 4 different tire types (none were reCaps) and never had an issue.

If you want to fully eliminate wheels & tires as a suspect why don't you swap on a set from another Toyota.

Do you have any friends with Toyota trucks?

 

[Millerad1651]

:nono: I hope you're an organ donor and ask that you avoid driving through New Mexico. Especially when I am driving my motorcycle. Texting + driving = Fail.

Called sarcasm man...I know it's the internet but still...

 

[Brique]

I had a Vibration on my Tacoma I could never pin down. At a certain throttle at around 40mph it would shimmy just a little. Faster or slower no problems.

My 4r is smooth as silk (for a truck truck, that is)

 

[Climber]

Not true. The ones who claim it's difficult don't have the right tools to do the job properly. Factory wheels require a lugcentric adapter to do it right,using a the usual cone adapters are a hit or miss. In my experience even balancing aftermarket Toyota truck wheels with the lugcentric adapter was the best method.

Did the shop give you the results of the road force measurements? Did they match the tires to the wheels?

Yes it was done at the toyota dealer. They didn't give me the results, I suppose
I should have asked for that. :/

 

[Climber]

I don't know dude. It's pretty suspect. I've had my 4Runner 10+ years , ran at least 4 different tire types (none were reCaps) and never had an issue.

If you want to fully eliminate wheels & tires as a suspect why don't you swap on a set from another Toyota.

Do you have any friends with Toyota trucks?

Yeah I want to do that, actually 2 of my friends drive 3rd gens so I'm think I should try that next, both are running aftermarket rims.

 

[MojaveMadMan]

Honestly, I have no helpfull tech info for you, but I do have a little advise on your perspective...

You have a 99, that means this thing is almost 15 years old. There isn't a busing or joint on this planet I would trust to go 15 years and work to spec... My 97 drives great on the freeway and has no vibs but again I spend a pritty penny to buy authentic Toyota parts and replace all the variables that I assumed would cause problems. I also spent $800 on top of the line tires, which I had to save for for a few months. Because of this I have a sweet riding old truck. I am not rich, but I know I need to spend money to get good results, just the way it works.

This is not a "sport" or "hobby" for tight pockets or impatient people. It's also not a place for people with high expectations that are not willing to go the extra mile needed to meet those expectations. If you want it to ride perfect, buy top of the line parts. If you want it to get the job done, buy cheaper parts and expect it to perform that way. There are a lot of people on here with great advice that you seem to be blowing off because they disagree with your part choices. I get it, tires are expensive, but don't write someone off because they comment on your financial choice. Not to mention, you are getting "crap" from people because you are putting forward a kind of crap attitude. I suggest you approach this with an open mind, take in all the advise that people are nice enough to provide, and appreciate the fact that you chose to be here and get free advise, which you would normally have to pay for if you went to a reputable shop... Not trying to be a downer here, just trying to help you get the info you need to get your rig fixed. Best of luck to you!

 

[RockenAlex]

I understand most people think any shop can balance a tire, but the equipment that is at your typical quick lube or NTB is inadequate for balancing large oversize tires. I have 33" tires that are 10" wide and on top of that I have 20" rims, the Discount tire close to where I live has a special balancing machine to accommodate for this! And that's the only place I go! If that fails the Butler tire has a serious balancing machine that will balance any tire above 200 mph (not that any of us need that). Retread or not a tire can be balanced.

That being said you should take your 4runner into a proper 4x4 shop capable of working on lifted and modified vehicles, and preferably somewhere commercial unless you know the owner. The will do tie rod ends, bushings, sway bar end links, whatever you need. I take mine to 4wheelparts and they have done stellar service on my 4runner, not to mention everything I've had done is under warranty. At any and all speed on road my 4runner is smooth as glass, even upwards of 90-100mph.

 

[MTD]

i hear ya, but some times enough is enough, i tend to call things as i see them... get offended easily, not my problem, i ment no offence i just called it as i saw it.

OFF TOPIC; But this is totally you ha ha and we have all grown to love it or we gave up

alright :focus:

 

[Dee3]

My lifted 98 drives great on the highway. Smooth and handles great. 3" front 5" or so rear, (861's) no body lift and both sway bars.. 285 70 17 maxxis bighorn and 4.30s. I have a stock limited 02 and it does not handle or ride as good as my 98 IMO with the suspension lift it seems to make the ride better.. For me at least..

 

[Climber]

Honestly, I have no helpfull tech info for you, but I do have a little advise on your perspective...

You have a 99, that means this thing is almost 15 years old. There isn't a busing or joint on this planet I would trust to go 15 years and work to spec... My 97 drives great on the freeway and has no vibs but again I spend a pritty penny to buy authentic Toyota parts and replace all the variables that I assumed would cause problems. I also spent $800 on top of the line tires, which I had to save for for a few months. Because of this I have a sweet riding old truck. I am not rich, but I know I need to spend money to get good results, just the way it works.

This is not a "sport" or "hobby" for tight pockets or impatient people. It's also not a place for people with high expectations that are not willing to go the extra mile needed to meet those expectations. If you want it to ride perfect, buy top of the line parts. If you want it to get the job done, buy cheaper parts and expect it to perform that way. There are a lot of people on here with great advice that you seem to be blowing off because they disagree with your part choices. I get it, tires are expensive, but don't write someone off because they comment on your financial choice. Not to mention, you are getting "crap" from people because you are putting forward a kind of crap attitude. I suggest you approach this with an open mind, take in all the advise that people are nice enough to provide, and appreciate the fact that you chose to be here and get free advise, which you would normally have to pay for if you went to a reputable shop... Not trying to be a downer here, just trying to help you get the info you need to get your rig fixed. Best of luck to you!

No I completely understand, it's a personal choice, I purchased the tires when I didn't have a lot to spend going off of others expierence. I don't think I have a crap attitude, it just seems everyone brings up the same old stuff when I know it's not a tire problem. I wouldn't post if it was something as easy as that I was just looking for suggestions of things to try. I do value you others opinions and I try to keep an open mind. I know treadwrights are not the best and I will not buy them again. I didn't have a lot and wanted to look cool so I skimped out and I know that now and fully admit to it. . I'm basing my ride quality on friends 3rd gens which ride great compared to mine. I've had this problem since I bought it over a year ago and wanted to finally try to get it fixed. Thanks for your suggestion and I know my next tires will not be what I have and I do not intend to keep them much longer.

 

[MVP]

My next step is to Try a driveline shop for them to inspect my u-joints, I cant see any play but id like to et it checked out anyway.

Keep in mind the driveline can be out of balance, even with good u-joints. Unlikely, but could happen if a balancing weight got thrown somehow...

 

[A.Wilson013]

:nono: I hope you're an organ donor and ask that you avoid driving through New Mexico. Especially when I am driving my motorcycle. Texting + driving = Fail.

Posting via tapatalk while driving south. See you in a few! You can drive your momo and I'll ride my runner.

Also, these are MY organs!!!

 

[slapdappy]

yeah i run michelin ltx m/s and they are super smooth, no vibrations, im using the stock 5 stars too. i have really bad play in the steering though and warped rotors.

1) replaced steering rack bushings?
2) Diagnose and Fix Steering Play/Rattle - TTORA Forum.
both made substantial improvements for me.
worn rack bushings are easy to see. Get under the track, have someone turn the wheel back and forth, watch the steering rack move.
steering shaft mod is simple and effective.

 

[D Farms]

It started leaking recently too after a wheeling trip... So the whole thing is toast.

 

[vanion2]

Posting via tapatalk while driving south. See you in a few! You can drive your momo and I'll ride my runner.

Also, these are MY organs!!!

Knuckle heads like you are how politicians justify their existence in writing laws that slowly strip away our freedom because you let convenience get in the way of common sense. And keep your organs. The gene pool is probably better off without them anyway. :usa2: