Hi all, Great site, I'm new and impressed. In the next month or two I'll be buying a 5th gen T4R and am looking for advice on pricing having seen a number of members getting below invoice quotes, etc. I live in a small town with one dealer but am 90 miles away from LA with many dealers to choose from. I'll be trading my awesome 4th gen T4R and am not that picky on my next one other than 4WD and leather. Any advice on getting the best deal? Many thanks.
Will be buying a 5th gen soon, looking for below invoice advice
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I just order a new 4-runner. If you have a trade, the value of your trade can vary substantially among dealers. In my experience, the difference was 2K. Check other posts for buying since there is a major difference of opinions on this topic. My strategy is out the door price comparison with the trade. You will find that some dealers have considerable hidden costs and the sales tax can vary by the location in some states. Probably should wait for someone to weigh in from the LA area, since my experience was in WA. Good luck and enjoy
LongBallLarry
New member
Read through these threads and you will be all set:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/74199-affinity-pricing-good-deal-not.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/73906-1000-under-msrp.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...-you-pay-tda-your-5th-gen-toyota-4runner.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/70382-whats-best-price-i-can-get-2011-limited.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/69072-houston-buyers.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/69788-got-offer-dealer-sr5-good.html
LongBallLarry
New member
By the way, it is very difficult to find an SR5 with leather in LA.
DavidPapke
New member
I'm sure the posted threads are terrific. Just to add my own recent experience from about a week ago on a 2011 SR5...
The Internet is your friend. I found a "special" in Sacramento (I live in Reno), which was listed at almost $4000 off MSRP. I confirmed mileage and condition, never haggled the price any further, and had it delivered for $100. The truck just happened to be exactly what I wanted (color, options, etc.), and the price was already around where I figured I wanted to end up after negotiations, so it was easy to start and end up at that particular dealership. I met the guys at a UPS store for notarizing and copies and the whole exchange took about 20 minutes. The salesman did mention that because their dealership was affiliated with Subaru, they could authorize my trade-in without prior inspection. However, he did mention that a guy was trying to do the same thing I was with a Ford and so they were hindered by needing to inspect the vehicle prior to finalizing the deal (something to notice when shopping, I guess...).
I used the online Autotrader system to value my trade-in, which I confirmed with Edmunds.com, and then asked for and got an additional $500. Just to see what I could catch, I went fishing for Limiteds at about a dozen NoCal dealerships and I simply said that I had a quote for $4500 off an SR5, but could they give me $6000 of a Limited...? Most folks said take the "$4500," but a couple of dealerships said they would match the $4500 for a Limited. So, it can be as easy as that...
A couple of additional notes: Financing is key. There are no official TFS/TMCC-sponsored rates, and dealers habitually tack on extra points to pad profit. Knowing this, I thought I would be well-armed by applying online directly with TFS, but this was a joke as they simply "approved" me and then said I would have to see the dealer for a rate quote. They're completely supporting the system, which is unethical to say the least. I had to "pretend" to be disappointed and frustrated with my rates while negotiating and act like I would have to walk away and then they magically dropped a couple of times. The whole process took about a week and lots of emails. The same rule applies online as with walk-in: if you get the dealership to invest a lot of time in your sale, they are that much more reluctant to have it "walk" at the last minute. In my opinion, the best negotiating tactic is to act like you are going to role with everything at the beginning but then tighten-up at the end (using their own tactics against them...). Also, taxes determined by your home county, not where you buy it (otherwise we would all go to certain states to buy our cars...).
Oh, and I agree about the leather - I didn't see any SR5s equipped that way when I was surfing. However, compared to typical modern "sedan-leather," Toyota's truck leather is lacking and kinda old-school Caddy-like in it's look and feel.
Good luck.
The Internet is your friend. I found a "special" in Sacramento (I live in Reno), which was listed at almost $4000 off MSRP. I confirmed mileage and condition, never haggled the price any further, and had it delivered for $100. The truck just happened to be exactly what I wanted (color, options, etc.), and the price was already around where I figured I wanted to end up after negotiations, so it was easy to start and end up at that particular dealership. I met the guys at a UPS store for notarizing and copies and the whole exchange took about 20 minutes. The salesman did mention that because their dealership was affiliated with Subaru, they could authorize my trade-in without prior inspection. However, he did mention that a guy was trying to do the same thing I was with a Ford and so they were hindered by needing to inspect the vehicle prior to finalizing the deal (something to notice when shopping, I guess...).
I used the online Autotrader system to value my trade-in, which I confirmed with Edmunds.com, and then asked for and got an additional $500. Just to see what I could catch, I went fishing for Limiteds at about a dozen NoCal dealerships and I simply said that I had a quote for $4500 off an SR5, but could they give me $6000 of a Limited...? Most folks said take the "$4500," but a couple of dealerships said they would match the $4500 for a Limited. So, it can be as easy as that...
A couple of additional notes: Financing is key. There are no official TFS/TMCC-sponsored rates, and dealers habitually tack on extra points to pad profit. Knowing this, I thought I would be well-armed by applying online directly with TFS, but this was a joke as they simply "approved" me and then said I would have to see the dealer for a rate quote. They're completely supporting the system, which is unethical to say the least. I had to "pretend" to be disappointed and frustrated with my rates while negotiating and act like I would have to walk away and then they magically dropped a couple of times. The whole process took about a week and lots of emails. The same rule applies online as with walk-in: if you get the dealership to invest a lot of time in your sale, they are that much more reluctant to have it "walk" at the last minute. In my opinion, the best negotiating tactic is to act like you are going to role with everything at the beginning but then tighten-up at the end (using their own tactics against them...). Also, taxes determined by your home county, not where you buy it (otherwise we would all go to certain states to buy our cars...).
Oh, and I agree about the leather - I didn't see any SR5s equipped that way when I was surfing. However, compared to typical modern "sedan-leather," Toyota's truck leather is lacking and kinda old-school Caddy-like in it's look and feel.
Good luck.
tx 4runner
New member
Do not value your trade in based on any website other than Craigslist. I would go through Craigslist, find some comparables, then figure you could sell yours without too much trouble for $1000 less than the going price on CL.
Here is what I included in my listing.
-100 high-res pictures (hosted on photobucket for $3)
-CARFAX (got off Craigslist for $3)
-CarMax appraisal (free, took about an hour)
My car sold quickly, for $2000 more than what CARMAX was going to give me. Not a lot of work for $2k.
I would search Cars.com and Autotrader.com to find the car you want, within maybe a 200 or 300 mile radius. Ask for a quote online, so you'll be dealing with "internet sales," usually an entirely separate person than the sales staff. They can deliver the truck, or you could travel to go pick it up, so that ought to be easy. Anyways, once you get a quote that sounds appealing, get them to fax (or email) you a copy of the actual invoice. This is the only way to actually know what you're buying. Make sure the VIN numbers match up.
That's how I bought mine, worked out great. Don't forget to search out-of-state to take advantage of different promo offers.
Here is what I included in my listing.
-100 high-res pictures (hosted on photobucket for $3)
-CARFAX (got off Craigslist for $3)
-CarMax appraisal (free, took about an hour)
My car sold quickly, for $2000 more than what CARMAX was going to give me. Not a lot of work for $2k.
I would search Cars.com and Autotrader.com to find the car you want, within maybe a 200 or 300 mile radius. Ask for a quote online, so you'll be dealing with "internet sales," usually an entirely separate person than the sales staff. They can deliver the truck, or you could travel to go pick it up, so that ought to be easy. Anyways, once you get a quote that sounds appealing, get them to fax (or email) you a copy of the actual invoice. This is the only way to actually know what you're buying. Make sure the VIN numbers match up.
That's how I bought mine, worked out great. Don't forget to search out-of-state to take advantage of different promo offers.
I just bought a 5th gen in Ohio and I got it under invoice. I went looking for a 2010 on a lot with 2011's and bought near the end of the month. I went into the dealership with a number in mind to finance (invoice minus a fair amount for my trade in) and was very aggressive with the sales manager on what price I expected. I know people in the car business and they told me if you understand the process of Invoice + add ons - holdback along with the finance process you can negotiate a good price. If you are too aggressive you may get run out of a dealership before you find one that wants to sell you a T4R right away.
danielsan127
New member
I think it also depends on how your area will negotiate prices. I know up here in the NW, I just got done buying a 2011 Silver TE last night. I got it at invoice, but it took over 3 weeks of online negotiating and haggling.
I would suggest reading the threads longballlarry posted. I read most of them before or during the negotiating process and it seemed to help.
I would suggest reading the threads longballlarry posted. I read most of them before or during the negotiating process and it seemed to help.
jreiter
New member
I just bought my Trail Edition last night from Momentum Toyota in Fairmont. I actually used the Truecar.com site to initiate the process. It's a very cool site that will show you the sticker, average purchase price, invoice, and actual dealer cost. You put in your zipcode, and it will put you in contact with your 3 nearest dealers that are in the Truecar network. I live down in San Luis Obispo, and unfortunately Toyota does not sell Trail Editions in southern California. I got around this by putting a Bay Area zipcode into Truecar.com, so they put me in touch with northern California dealers.
The "internet" price at Momentum is $300 under invoice, which is what I paid. However, like other people said, watch out for all the hidden fees. There is sometimes an "etch" fee for hundreds of dollars which is a waste if you ask me. There is also a $55 documentation fee, which is kind of lame if you ask me. Other than that, though, they were pretty straight forward. I drove up last night to pick up the 4runner, and it was all pretty smooth.
The "internet" price at Momentum is $300 under invoice, which is what I paid. However, like other people said, watch out for all the hidden fees. There is sometimes an "etch" fee for hundreds of dollars which is a waste if you ask me. There is also a $55 documentation fee, which is kind of lame if you ask me. Other than that, though, they were pretty straight forward. I drove up last night to pick up the 4runner, and it was all pretty smooth.
LongBallLarry
New member
Congrats on the ride.
I'm not sure if what you wrote was in error but I see plenty of TE in SoCal.
philsey
New member
The best advice I can give you is to keep your trade out of the deal if you can afford it. The nicer your car is, the easier it will be to sell privately. A cheap investment is detailing, highly recommended.
I bought my wife a '10 CRV, and sold her '06 CRV in <3 weeks for $2K more than I was offered in trade. Same with my '10 SR5, sold my '04 Pathfinder for $2K more than trade offer.
Trades allow the dealer to muddy-up the transaction.
I bought my wife a '10 CRV, and sold her '06 CRV in <3 weeks for $2K more than I was offered in trade. Same with my '10 SR5, sold my '04 Pathfinder for $2K more than trade offer.
Trades allow the dealer to muddy-up the transaction.
jreiter
New member
Really? I called 8 different dealers, and they all told me that Toyota no longer sells the Trail in socal. They all searched their computers and said they were finding them in norcal and would have to trade for them. Even on Toyota's website, if you put in a socal zipcode the trail edition is not available.
LongBallLarry
New member
I see TEs on many SoCal inventory lists. Interesting enough is that they are all 2010s. Maybe there will be no more 2011s, at least not for the time being.
Als VARunner
New member
Extended Warranties
Another way for the dealership to make a LOT of money is extended warranty. Because of reading this forum, I went in within 30 days and cancelled my extended warranty and saved $1,000 on an OEM Toyota 8 year extended warranty from another dealer. You do not have to buy the extended coverage from the dealer you buy your T4R. Look at past threads for other dealers who deal in volume.
Another way for the dealership to make a LOT of money is extended warranty. Because of reading this forum, I went in within 30 days and cancelled my extended warranty and saved $1,000 on an OEM Toyota 8 year extended warranty from another dealer. You do not have to buy the extended coverage from the dealer you buy your T4R. Look at past threads for other dealers who deal in volume.
I just bought a T4R SR5 this weekend for my dad - great car by the way. Try contacting a auto broker and see what they can get it for you. Not sure how you value your time but it was the easiest car buying process ever. My walk out price was $33,400 (the arrived from oregon so I had to WA sales tax when I registered). The car had third row seat, power driver seat, sunroof, floor mats, cross bars and the cd player. Note that it isn't leather. I'm also a USAA member as seen on "Affinity Pricing" and they quoted me $33004 for the exact same car - however, I'd have to pay doc fees this and that so I considered it a good deal.
TTown
New member
Ah, the complete opposite side of LA. There is lots information and ideas on how to get a good deal. Bottom line, do your homework. Know exactly what your trade-in is worth, and the new car pricing. I recommend kbb.com and edmunds.com. Don't worry about the TMV pricing on edmunds. I think you should be able to beat that price. You can go through the Internet department, as many find the process easier without the games, although if you know what you are doing you should be able to get the same deal If you walk into the dealership.
Give your local dealer the first shot, but be sure to check around for pricing. When calling around look at each dealership's online inventory. If they have what you want in stock, they will be eager to make a deal. Also if they have a lot of 2010s in stock they won't be as willing to discount a 2011 as another dealership with little or no 2010s on the lot.
Best advice I can give you: take emotion out of the equation and be ready to walk. You will save money or at the very least know you are at the bottom.
Good luck and let us know how it goes!
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