Will I need UCA's for proper alignment?

kboxvegas

New member
So since I now have a 2015 TE with KDSS I am looking to go ahead with some mods now vs waiting until the end of summer as I originally planned because I have the cash to blow. Although I am cutting it pretty close :ohwell:. I am looking to get the parts below:

Toytec Boss kit with the front diff drop. (This could change to the Bilstein 60mm BTS depending how those turn out)
BFG KO2 275/70/17 E
TRD front skid
n-Fab nerf's

The only piece of info I cannot nail down regardless how I searched is what amount of lift are UCA's required for a proper alignment? I would prefer a full 3" of lift and even some 285's but I would be happy with 2-3" and 275's if that meant I did not have to drop a few hundred more for UCA's and could maintain proper factory alignment. I have not had a truck for a while so forgive my ignorance please.
 
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If you stay around 2.5" up front you should be able to get with in spec. And you could fit 285s with a bit of trimming. To get the most out of the suspension UCAs are a good idea. That way you can fine tune your alignment numbers.

And you won't need the diff drop. Don't know anyone running one yet on a 5th Gen but that has probably changed.
 
N-Fab Nerf and tires

So since I now have a 2015 TE with KDSS I am looking to go ahead with some mods now vs waiting until the end of summer as I originally planned because I have the cash to blow. Although I am cutting it pretty close :ohwell:. I am looking to get the parts below:

Toytec Boss kit with the front diff drop. (This could change to the Bilstein 60mm BTS depending how those turn out)
BFG KO2 275/70/17 E
TRD front skid
n-Fab nerf's

The only piece of info I cannot nail down regardless how I searched is what amount of lift are UCA's required for a proper alignment? I would prefer a full 3" of lift and even some 285's but I would be happy with 2-3" and 275's if that meant I did not have to drop a few hundred more for UCA's and could maintain proper factory alignment. I have not had a truck for a while so forgive my ignorance please.
I'm about to purchase the same truck. The build you have in mind looks good.
If you look at Sonoran Steel website they indicate that if you have KDSS you need to upgrade the UCA. It's just one source. Maybe ask a couple of the suppliers?
Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
If you replace the tires, what do you do with the original P275s that came with the T4R? I'd like to change it out to a LT tire with better sidewalls. How do you avoid discarding perfectly good OEM tires? Seems like it'd be better to order the car with better tires.
The OEM tires are almost 32" tall. Going much larger, like 33", requires lots of power to overcome the rotational inertia, reduces acceleration and increases braking distance.
What's a n-Fab Nerf? What is it? How do I find one? Who carries them?
 
I lifted mine 1.75 with the 5100s. It aligned easily, and I would imagine it has a little more wiggle room in the 2" neighborhood without aftermarket UCAs. I didn't want to go the aftermarket UCA route either. Oh and my truck has KDSS too if that helps.
 
What's a n-Fab Nerf? What is it? How do I find one? Who carries them?

2015 toyota 4runner Nfab - Bing
[MENTION=121223]kboxvegas[/MENTION], I am at 2" of lift on the front with factory UCA's. The alignment tech had to set the caster below spec but the truck still handles fine. Aftermarket UCA's would have made it easier on him, and I am still considering a pair, but I haven't had any problems in 3 months and about 5,000 miles. And I haven't added a diff drop either.
 
Thanks for the info guy's. Looks like I got some pondering to do as I only want to do this once. One other question while I have everyone's attention, how big of a spare will fit under the rear with the KDSS? I am pretty set on the BFG KO2's in either 285/70 or 275/70
 
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I am at 2.5" up front with stock UCA and the boss coil overs. Honestly I would say if you do much highway driving you should get the new UCA. I didn't but it is noticeable at highway speeds, a bit twitchy, not dangerous and my wife doesn't even notice when she drives. I've been driving it this way for almost a year so obviously it's not a big deal but I plan to get new UCA's this summer when I get new tires.

To save money you can add them later most likely
 
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From my research, UCA's are only a necessity if you want to take full advantage of extended travel coilovers, with a 3" lift

In regards to a spare, I was reading the requirements to attend a trail ride for a Jeep club, which included a full size spare that's within 2-3" of your other tires, so I never considered buying a different one. If I had a bumper with a swing-out, that would be a different story.
 
The answer is that it depends (on several things).

I purchased my t4r used, It had a 3" ome lift and 285 70 BFG TA KOs on stock rims. It drove great and it had stock UCAs.

I later changed wheels and tires and went with an 8" 0 offset rim on Duratracks in the same size. Got it aligned and maxed out caster, but it drove like crap at hwy speeds. So, I put on aftermarket UCAs and the problem was quickly resolved.

I would say most people with a lift end up with aftermarket UCAs, but it is not always mandatory.

The aftermarket UCAs generally do 3 things:
1: angle in more + caster (usually 2*)
2: angle the ball joint or use a uniball to allow for a little more down travel if the shocks support it.
3: Provide more strength with a tubular construction...

For the spare. not 100% sure if the KDSS robs and spare space or not, but I have a 285 70 and it fits just fine. I think folks with KDSS run the same size spare.
 
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Attached is my alignment done after installing the following (2014 4R SR5 Premium 4x4):

- Goodyear Wrangler Duratracs Tires (LT285/70 R17 121Q D1 OWL)
- ProCompUSA Wheels (Series 7032, 17x9 with 6 on 135 Bolt Pattern - Flat Black, -6 Offset)
- BOSS Suspension Lift System 3"
- Front Diff Drop
- Superflex HD Rear Coils
- Light Racing 25480 Upper Control Arms


image1_zpsrytohzrt.jpg~original
 
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Since you have money to blow, I would just get the UCAs and be done with it. Anything above 2" of lift and you start to run out of caster real quick.
 
Thanks

2015 toyota 4runner Nfab - Bing

[MENTION=121223]kboxvegas[/MENTION], I am at 2" of lift on the front with factory UCA's. The alignment tech had to set the caster below spec but the truck still handles fine. Aftermarket UCA's would have made it easier on him, and I am still considering a pair, but I haven't had any problems in 3 months and about 5,000 miles. And I haven't added a diff drop either.

Thanks for the link to the Nerf bars. Those are side steps. They look like they bolt to the body work rather than the frame. Like running boards, they are damage enhancers. These are likely to cause more damage than they prevent. A rock rail bolted to the frame is my choice.

Yes, sounds like the UCA is the way to go for more better (mo beta)adjustment of the alignment. Thanks.
 
If you are already spending the cash for a Toytec 3" kit, its only a few bucks more for the diff drop bracket. Well worth it imo in terms of maintaining proper cv angles (ie. Less premature wear & tear)

Also, the TRDPro front skid is not compatible with KDSS equipped 'Runners....you will need a KDSS compatible skid from any number of aftermarket manufacturers which has a deeper 'bumpout' for KDSS components.
 

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