Will rear window work without console switch installed?

papawhellie

New member
I still have no working rear window. Most stuff in the tailgate was unplugged. PO:hunter: had run wires from the fusebox to touch them to touch them to roll it up and down. I installed an ebay relay and have one more in the wrecked one. I have read a lot of post here. What wire brings power to the relay and where does it come from. Maybe someone can link me up here or start me on a troubleshooting journey. I really need this think working where I can adjust the amp without crawling over.:pout: I want to fix everything to factory spec or improve it.
 
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You can start by telling us what truck-year-model-trim.
A problem well-stated is a problem halfway solved.
:)
 
You can start by telling us what truck-year-model-trim.
A problem well-stated is a problem halfway solved.
:)

Sorry Rad, I thought the only 4runners were first gens :lmao:
Its an 88 DLX 22RE 5 speed. No defrost in rear window. What pins could I jump (wire colors) in the connector to defeat it to check if there is a connection necessary there. Also off topic but you would probably know: Does a dlx have the wiring factory installed for an inclinometer? What wires does it have? Only a light or are there electronic or sensor feeds? My son says the inclinometer has a 4WD light.
 
make sure all of the bolts that hold the top on are installed. one of them (I forget which) on the drivers side is needed to complete the circuit.

If that checks out, there is a relay behind the seatbelt area on drivers side. Listen closely and see if you hear a "click".

Those are the typical things. If neither refer to : 4Runner Rear Window Cheap Tricks
 
make sure all of the bolts that hold the top on are installed. one of them (I forget which) on the drivers side is needed to complete the circuit.

Only one bolt is needed to close top-off switch. It has to be the correct length.
Here:

Cover_Top_Bolt_B_zps6916ddb6.jpg~original
 
We still have the inner panels out so I can physically look at the switch. The top is on now and bolt in. I can run the window with a motorcycle battery up and down with the blue wires at the relay so that tells me the motor and mechanics are good at the rear. Should I have 12 volts to ground at the line side of top switch at all times? PO had already hacked the wires at the relay and run two to the front and was hotting them up reversing polarity to run it up and down. I purchased an ebay relay early on and installed it so I have tried two. Grayson wants to switch tailgates and see what happens. I recommend troubleshooting. Lots of stuff in this tailgate was unplugged. There is a mark etched in the glass where perhaps the big connector was ripped loose and scraped on the glass. We plugged everything back up but still no workie. I have another relay in the wrecked one. I think I should try it next?! Thoughts?
Thanks, I really need this to work to adjust my amp. Phil Collins to Skynyrd to VH to Chesney takes a different adjustment. :keyboard:
 
Looks like a power window fuse and circuit breaker? I don't see either under the hood or in the box. I don't have a fuse box cover but have this.



I saw one circuit breaker in there but no contacts for a second one. Under hood box mentions no PW? Help?

The manual I have downloaded shows the power coming from B instead of C. Its a 85 FSM. I am going to follow your post RAD and report back. I wonder if I have voltage to the relay at all.

Wait: I should have RED from a REDwYELLOW from the engine fuse feeding 12V + to the relay at all times?
 
... Phil Collins to Skynyrd to VH to Chesney takes a different adjustment...
No Mantovani? LOL!

Rear_Window-Copy_zpsb4d9f347.jpg~original


003B_Fuse_Relay_Panel_0001-Copy_zpsc1e9e2f5.jpg~original


...Should I have 12 volts to ground at the line side of top switch at all times?
When tailgate key switch and console switch are at rest (center-off):
  • There should be no voltage at Cover-Top switch.
  • There should always be ground on pin 2 (Blue-red) wire of the switch, IF tailgate lock is down (locked).
  • There should be ground at Pin 3 (blue-green) when bolt closes the contacts, indicating that cover is installed.
  • When you remove the bolt, Pin3 floats. No ground, no 12Volt

I saw one circuit breaker in there but no contacts for a second one.
Correct. I think second slot is for power doors/windows(SR5)

The manual I have downloaded shows the power coming from B instead of C. Its a 85 FSM. I am going to follow your post RAD and report back. I wonder if I have voltage to the relay at all.
My schematic is for 1988. Same as for 1986. not sure of color-coding...

Pin 6 should always have power from battery through circuit breaker. That allows you to operate window from tail gate without IGN ON.

Pin 8 should only have 12V from engine fuse when Ign on. You can only operate from console switch when IG on.

Pls check my post for pin numbers.
 
Thank you sooo much. Great drawings, I saw that perhaps you are an eng#$eer. Turned out the wiper was yanked in an odd position and that switch was keeping the circuit from working. The circuit breaker was missing as well (wondered what that plug was for???), but after robbing the wrecked breaker and messing with the wiper switch---We have ignition Houston...working with the rear key switch! We just tie wrapped the switch for now. Wiper assembly is most likely shot anyway. Many thanks again. BTW the 88 colors are different. Now we can solder everything back together at the relay and install panels. I might like to add that parallel switch in the rear cargo area to operate the window. Got a link or good drawing on that mod?
 
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