Winter Wheelin'

Daron-t4r

New member
Hey guys! I want to do some winter wheeling this winter and I'm looking for some basic tips since I havn't done it all that much.

Firstly, how much do you air down? I've just purchased a set of load-D GY Wrangler Duratracs, and The max PSI is ~60.

Also, when do I lock the Torsen center diff, and when should I use 4-Lo as opposed to 4-Hi?

What other tips do you have for the white fluffy stuff? Anything is appreciated!

-Jordan
 
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Everything is subjective and mostly based on preference.

Air Pressure:
15 - 20 PSI is probably as low as you need.
If there less than a foot of snow (or so) and I know the road is solid under the snow, I won't air down, I'd rather plow through the snow and use the road for traction.
If there is more than a foot of snow and or the road is completely packed snow I will air down in an effort to stay on top of the snow (also helps with traction)

Locking the center diff:
I lock the diff just before I think I need it. If you are slipping/spinning you should lock the diff.
4 High vs Low:
My rough rule of thumb is normally based on speed and traction. If I am going to be travelling less than 25 mph (off road) then I'll normally put it in 4low. The exception is when it's only a short time or there are no traction issues. With a scanguage in my 4runner, I noticed the transmission temperature was significantly higher in 4high vs 4low for the same stretch of road and same conditions. Any time there is a serious issue with traction (deep snow, thick mud, ruts/rocks/other obstacles) you should be in 4low.

More tips:
Don't go alone. If you go alone, be prepared to walk for help all the way from where you came.
Be prepared for an emergency, make sure you could spend a night in or around your truck if needed. You don't have to be comfortable, but make sure you'll be able to survive.
Do some searching if you haven't already, there are lots of 4x4 articles on this topic.
Know your limits, when in doubt, turn around or be prepared to get yourself unstuck.
Most importantly have fun!
 
Ironhippy, thanks for the great response. This is exactly what I was looking for!!

More tips:
Don't go alone. If you go alone, be prepared to walk for help all the way from where you came.
Be prepared for an emergency, make sure you could spend a night in or around your truck if needed. You don't have to be comfortable, but make sure you'll be able to survive.

I've had to walk a while before, but sometime we have to learn the hard way! The emergency kit is a must in the 4runner.

Again, thanks for the great info, I'm ready to enjoy the winter snow... whenever that manages to make it to Colorado.
 
What other tips do you have for the white fluffy stuff? Anything is appreciated!

Good stuff from ironhippy.

Going alone is not recommended, but if you can't help yourself (like me) I think I can offer some tips from experience. All the standard stuff applies -- communications, insulation, calories, etc., but also make sure you bring a shovel. You can get out of a lot of stuff with a shovel and some patience.

This is from the standpoint of snow from about 1/2 to a little more than 1 foot deep so you'd want to be aired down since there would be a possibility of needing the flotation.

Be aware that traction and steering control in snow are not as good in reverse as going forward. Not exactly sure why traction is worse, but in my setup it is for sure. Maybe it's tied to the inferior steering control. In any event, this makes slight grades with deep snow something to keep an eye on. If you're, say, cautiously testing the waters in fresh snow on a slight downhill grade with the expectation of being able to back out if it gets too deep, you may not have the reverse traction you expect even with the advantage of self made tracks behind you. In a situation like that, you can use the shovel to facilitate a little motion that will let you gain some momentum and hopefully back out. Traction seems to be the main problem backing up slope but steering, too, can get funky and put you in a worse position if you're not careful. If that seems likely or you have a long way to go and the road bed is suitably wide, you can use the shovel to facilitate a little movement and then start flattening a wide area in the snow by driving back and forth. Eventually, you can use the churned and smoothed area to get turned around so you can go forward up the grade. You don't have to do it that way to get turned around but I'd rather let the truck do the snow work when possible. Slight uphill grades are fun because recovery is kind of built in. Just back out. If, by that point, you haven't developed the habit of constantly taking note of turn around spots, you will real quick. Take care, though, when the uphill gets steeper because possible lack of steering control backing down can make things interesting quick. If there is noticeable side slope involved don't even try it unless you're sure you can make the top. You don't want to be in that situation and then find out the snow conditions are slicker than you thought.

Not a bad idea to have chains with you (that you know how to put on) for some extra capability should you need it, but if you're alone, don't use them for general wheeling. They just get you more stuck. The shovel helps there a lot too. Chains are pretty easy to put on with the snow all cleared away around the tire.

If you're going down, say, a forest road in fairly deep snow but it already has tracks, it's easy to get too comfortable with speed, lose your steering, and get buried on the side. If that happens, you'll be glad you didn't forget the shovel. Sometimes it's easier to just plow the snow where there are no tracks. Makes the truck work hard, though, so unless it's for a short time, you'll want to be in low range for sure. The torque converter will lock in 4th gear and in 4th gear low the truck is capable of quite a bit of work before it needs to downshift.
 
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Thanks alot JB. You are making me more excited to get out there than ever. I've noticed as well that the traction while backing up is definitely lacking, in addition to the harder steering. One question: When/If you find your self making a rut without high centering, do you find that shoveling to eliminate the rut helps, or does a shovel not help in that situation? I ask only because this has happened before, though not in the 4runner, and not while I was driving.

Thanks for the info

-Jordan
 
One question: When/If you find your self making a rut without high centering, do you find that shoveling to eliminate the rut helps, or does a shovel not help in that situation? I ask only because this has happened before, though not in the 4runner, and not while I was driving.
-Jordan

Sorry, not following the question. Are you asking if adding snow to the rut can help gain height if you are high centered? Never tried that, but putting something in the rut to gain a little height can be helpful, yes. I usually have a hi-lift jack and base with me, but haven't had to use the jack and don't want to. The jack base and the tire chains bag, though, are two things I've mentally earmarked to serve the purpose of filling the rut. If you want to go nuts, you could carry something like <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBQMW-x8Nck&feature=player_embedded" target="_blank">this</a> or make something up that serves a similar purpose, even if less effective. Tree branches work in a pinch but you want to try to avoid being "that" guy.

If you need to remove snow from underneath the vehicle to get any motion, you're stuck pretty bad. With reasonable caution, that should be unlikely, but if you think it might be necessay, it's good to start there with the shovel as quickly as possible before the snow becomes too firm to move. Plenty of good, non-cotton clothing is a must as you may be kneeling or even lying in the snow if you have to break out the shovel. Might consider a drop cloth, too, but the list can go on forever. Gotta draw the line somewhere.
 
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Yea, my question was poorly worded, but you answered it fine. I think I'll be investing in a high lift soon, and I'll mount it on the roof rack. I don't forsee any high-centering problems in the near future as long as I stay out of snow thats 2.5'+ because of my lift. Seems as if constant speed is really the biggest thing to keep in mind.

I'll post some snow wheelin' pics soon!
 
I think I'll be investing in a high lift soon, and I'll mount it on the roof rack.

Make sure to keep the highlift oiled and covered if its going to be exposed to weather to prevent rusting.

I don't forsee any high-centering problems in the near future as long as I stay out of snow thats 2.5'+ because of my lift.

People dont forsee car accidents but you wear your seat belt all the time. You could slide off, or not see something burred putting you in a situation you dont want to be in.

A winch, lockers and proper recovery gear/training couldant hurt either.
 
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People dont forsee car accidents but you wear your seat belt all the time. You could slide off, or not see something burred putting you in a situation you dont want to be in.

A winch, lockers and proper recovery gear/training couldant hurt either.

When I said I don't forsee high centering, I was talking about my limited need for a shovel, though you have a valid point:

Training sounds great, I think learning by experience is my best learning tool right now though. Also, I do plan on getting a winch bumper + winch in the near future, but not right now, I'll have to stick with a tow strap, and my buddies. Also lockers sounds fantastic... especially an ARB air locker, but I'm really not chomping at the bit to spend a grand on a locker.
 
We all have with lists right? Haha. Well if your ever REALLY in a jam, you can winch with a highlift...but its a slow process.
 
Yes wish lists Galore... I could spend any bank dry with my list... its never ending!

Oh, and winching with the highlift looks like a painfully slow process!
 
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Yes wish lists Galore... I could spend any bank dry with my list... its never ending!

Oh, and winching with the highlift looks like a painfully slow process!

I winched with my hilift once, to make sure I knew how.
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Next day I bought an 8000lb comealong. :D
 
So I was snow wheeling New Years day and got bogged down in about 18" of the wonderful white stuff. 2000lb come along saved my butt. My new point to remember, is when in doubt, don't go there. Never listen to your 10 year old when he says, "C'mon dad you can make it".
 
What about 2 10 year olds... same thing happened to my with my twin 10 year old brother and sister, "you got it, its not that deep"-- fear those words.
 
Hey guys! I want to do some winter wheeling this winter and I'm looking for some basic tips since I havn't done it all that much.

Firstly, how much do you air down? I've just purchased a set of load-D GY Wrangler Duratracs, and The max PSI is ~60.

Also, when do I lock the Torsen center diff, and when should I use 4-Lo as opposed to 4-Hi?

What other tips do you have for the white fluffy stuff? Anything is appreciated!

-Jordan

I would join up at RM4x4.org and definitely not go by yourself...

Get a cb, go up with us and you will be way better off. Snowbashing and 4wheeling in general should never be done alone, especially in Colorado.

We dont even usually go unless there are 3 capable rigs... Even the easiest trail like yankee hill can be unpredicatable, I slid a couple hundred feet down a hill and almost off the trail last year.

I know you mention going with your buddies... do they have much experience 4wheeling? or snowbashing?
 
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I would join up at RM4x4.org and definitely not go by yourself...

Get a cb, go up with us and you will be way better off. Snowbashing and 4wheeling in general should never be done alone, especially in Colorado.

We dont even usually go unless there are 3 capable rigs... Even the easiest trail like yankee hill can be unpredicatable, I slid a couple hundred feet down a hill and almost off the trail last year.

I know you mention going with your buddies... do they have much experience 4wheeling? or snowbashing?

Yes, join us!
BTW, if you're below the tree line, winches are great things to have for self-recovery.
 
One of the most important things about snow wheeling... If you go down a snowy/Icy hill, make sure you can make it back up when you go home! And wide tires are nice in the snow
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Yea, my question was poorly worded, but you answered it fine. I think I'll be investing in a high lift soon, and I'll mount it on the roof rack. I don't forsee any high-centering problems in the near future as long as I stay out of snow thats 2.5'+ because of my lift. Seems as if constant speed is really the biggest thing to keep in mind.

I'll post some snow wheelin' pics soon!

If you get a hi-lift. Get the lift-mate too so you can lift from your wheels. I don't see rock sliders in your signature that you would be able to lift from, or front/rear bumpers. I've used it like that. Work good.

Also if you are hi centered on lets say you gas tank, you could probably use a regular jack on your frame, to be able to get some snow out so that your tank doesn't rest on it, for example.
 
One of the most important things about snow wheeling... If you go down a snowy/Icy hill, make sure you can make it back up when you go home! And wide tires are nice in the snow
index.php

Excellent advice--this will save your tail! Never be afraid to walk a good ways ahead and check the terrain, ESPECIALLY if you're heading DOWN into unknown territory--you may need to come right back up that same hill, so make sure you CAN. That being said, make sure you have proper footwear for the task before setting out. Another great idea is a Pull-Pal winch anchor--trees aren't always in convenient locations, and you don't want to have to pull yourself too far to the side of your path when in snow (the stuff to the side may be much deeper than where you are). One last thing--your traction when backing is worse because you've already compressed the snow, so it's more like driving on ice. Snow aids traction as it compresses, but loses it quickly once you've been over it already. Have fun, and stay safe out there!
 

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