Wiring Help - Using factory fog switch to Rigid Dually

[Shred_Head]

So I was planning to buy the Plug & Play Rigid to Factory Fog Switch wiring harness by TAP, but i found out they are no longer selling these...

I really want to use the factory fog switch in lieu of the Rigid rocker switch to control my dually fogs. Has anyone done this on a 5th gen T4R?


I'm thinking that if i wire the rigid wiring kit like normal, but instead of the 3 prong switch, i tap into the Pos. & Neg. wires behind the factory fog harness.

Can anyone tell me if this will work? I would just cap off the blue illumination wire on the rigid wiring harness since i will not need it to be illuminated. I also plan to do the Independent Fog light mod after this.

Hoping someone will help me out! i have searched all over but can't find anything related on a 5th gen.

:thanks:

 

[Sig_Fan_55]

I wired mine straight to the factory wiring with no added relay and no rigid harness and I have no issues. I used these adapters so I would not have to cut the factory harness and have the option to go back to stock at the fog light side, then I cut the rigid harness where the plugs are for the lights made a jumper out of the two and done.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XP4PP6W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

If you want to use the full rigid harness you can just find out which of the wires on the harness is the output and tag that one to the hot on the factory fog plug.

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

How many amps is your new lights going to pull? I'd suggest not wiring it up directly to the fogs, especially if you leave the fogs running with the new lights.

You'll probably notice, if you have more than 5 amps extra load on the fog lamp's circuit, that the wires will become warm to the touch from the extra load. It may not blow the fuse, but you will be pushing the limits of that circuit, and that's just not a good thing to do.

Just run an extra relay, they aren't that hard to wire in, and you will know for sure that you won't ever have an issue with your wiring. 4 wires on a relay, one goes to battery's +12, one to ground, then you have one to the new lights +12, and one to the stock foglight's +12, that's it. Its literally just 2 more wires to hook up, and a place to mount your relay. I'd also throw a fuse in at the battery connection just to protect the circuit.

If you need more info on relays, just ask. There's a ton of us here who play with wiring and relays all the time!:wave:

 

[kuato]

So I was planning to buy the Plug & Play Rigid to Factory Fog Switch wiring harness by TAP, but i found out they are no longer selling these...

I ordered a set of these back in Dec but have been on a wait list due to being out of stock. As of about 10 days ago, they were looking for and they thought they found a new vendor to make these. I was planning on holding out a bit longer and following up later this week with them to see if they are still on track with a new vendor. Have you heard otherwise or anything different?

I may bite the bullet and start looking for an alternative.

 

[Shred_Head]

I wired mine straight to the factory wiring with no added relay and no rigid harness and I have no issues. I used these adapters so I would not have to cut the factory harness and have the option to go back to stock at the fog light side, then I cut the rigid harness where the plugs are for the lights made a jumper out of the two and done.

Robot Check

If you want to use the full rigid harness you can just find out which of the wires on the harness is the output and tag that one to the hot on the factory fog plug.

thanks for the idea!

I was thinking of using these plug extenders from the factory fog plug and splicing the Pos & Neg wires to the Switch Ground and Switch output wires at the Rigid rocker switch.

I don't really want to cut the rigid harness either...
Have you experienced any flickering? i read that this might happen if you don't use a relay.

 

[Shred_Head]

How many amps is your new lights going to pull? I'd suggest not wiring it up directly to the fogs, especially if you leave the fogs running with the new lights.

You'll probably notice, if you have more than 5 amps extra load on the fog lamp's circuit, that the wires will become warm to the touch from the extra load. It may not blow the fuse, but you will be pushing the limits of that circuit, and that's just not a good thing to do.

Just run an extra relay, they aren't that hard to wire in, and you will know for sure that you won't ever have an issue with your wiring. 4 wires on a relay, one goes to battery's +12, one to ground, then you have one to the new lights +12, and one to the stock foglight's +12, that's it. Its literally just 2 more wires to hook up, and a place to mount your relay. I'd also throw a fuse in at the battery connection just to protect the circuit.

If you need more info on relays, just ask. There's a ton of us here who play with wiring and relays all the time!:wave:

Im actually replacing the factory fogs with Rigid Dually fogs, so I won't be adding on to the circuit (probably much less wattage/amps than the factory fogs).

The new fogs are only 1.53 amp draw per light. I will be using the Rigid relay/wiring harness wired direct to the battery (has inline fuse). But instead of running the 3 wires to the 3-prong rocker switch, i would run the Ground (black) and Switch output (blue) splice into the 2 wires coming from the factory fog plug.

Does this sound like it should work out fine? Thanks dude!

 

[Shred_Head]

I ordered a set of these back in Dec but have been on a wait list due to being out of stock. As of about 10 days ago, they were looking for and they thought they found a new vendor to make these. I was planning on holding out a bit longer and following up later this week with them to see if they are still on track with a new vendor. Have you heard otherwise or anything different?

I may bite the bullet and start looking for an alternative.

They PM'd me today and pretty much the exact same thing...

I'm going on an upcoming trip and don't want to wait for them to find a new vendor. I would just wire it up direct and use the rocker switch, but i want the lights to turn off automatic with the headlights. Also, my firewall gasket is pretty packed with all the wires from my other lights...

 

[Highwaystreets]

They PM'd me today and pretty much the exact same thing...

I'm going on an upcoming trip and don't want to wait for them to find a new vendor. I would just wire it up direct and use the rocker switch, but i want the lights to turn off automatic with the headlights. Also, my firewall gasket is pretty packed with all the wires from my other lights...

Do the rigid duallys mount directly where the Oem fogs are or do you need another bracket?

 

[Sig_Fan_55]

thanks for the idea!



I was thinking of using these plug extenders from the factory fog plug and splicing the Pos & Neg wires to the Switch Ground and Switch output wires at the Rigid rocker switch.



I don't really want to cut the rigid harness either...

Have you experienced any flickering? i read that this might happen if you don't use a relay.

Nope, no flickering at all. I agree that having the relay is always best but after the math I'm comfortable not running one.

My research showed the stock 35w bulbs pulling just over 5amps and the rigids around 1 amp. Just my 2 cents and my math may be off so I'm not saying it's for everyone but and do what I did but however you go about it the end result is a hell of a lot more light than the stocks, the DOT versions project a great pattern too.

 

[Sig_Fan_55]

Do the rigid duallys mount directly where the Oem fogs are or do you need another bracket?

Rigid makes a bracket to mount any D series light in the factory location.

 

[Shred_Head]

Do the rigid duallys mount directly where the Oem fogs are or do you need another bracket?

Rigid sells an adapter bracket that fits in the OEM fog location.

You can buy the package (Enter T4R for the coupon code):
Rigid Bolt On Fog Light Kits - Total Automotive Performance - Your Source for Auto Parts and Accessories

Bracket separately:
Robot Check

 

[Highwaystreets]

Rigid sells an adapter bracket that fits in the OEM fog location.

You can buy the package (Enter T4R for the coupon code):
Rigid Bolt On Fog Light Kits - Total Automotive Performance - Your Source for Auto Parts and Accessories

Bracket separately:
Robot Check

Awesome thanks for that! I already have a set of D2's from my truck so I'm glad I saved them!

 

[Sig_Fan_55]

Awesome thanks for that! I already have a set of D2's from my truck so I'm glad I saved them!

Just a heads up that the D2's are probably going to be too bright for street use. I wanted to go that route but was warned against it and rightfully so, I went dually's DOT version and a buddy went D2 driving on his tundra, the D2's on his tundra even blind me when I'm in the 4Runner and he's behind me. Off road use hell ya, dually's don't even come near the D2's for output.

 

[raycie]

You can wire up to the factory wire no problem... I've done it on my old tacoma, helped a friend this past weekend, and a bunch of guys I know have done the same.

The friend I just helped, bought a Deultch plug and we hooked his up that way. I have also just cut off both connectors and hardwired them.

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

Im actually replacing the factory fogs with Rigid Dually fogs, so I won't be adding on to the circuit (probably much less wattage/amps than the factory fogs).

The new fogs are only 1.53 amp draw per light.

Ahh, gotcha! You really don't even need to run the relay in this case! You're replacing the stock fogs, and the amperage per lamp is way lower than the stock lamps, so there won't be any issue at all.

I assume there's only 2 wires coming from the lamps themselves, you just need to do a couple things here.

Maybe someone knows the wire colors at the oem lamps, but all you need to do is tap the two coming off the oem lamp connectors, and run your rigid lamps to those two wires. Just make sure polarity is correct, you can do this with a multimeter or even a 12v light tester if that's all you have. +12 to hot wire on rigid lamp, -12 to ground wire on lamp.

Not sure if toyota uses the negative-switched system, so don't ground the ground wire, as +12 may be constantly running to the lamp (not switched).

Sorry I can't give you more info, I haven't touched the fogs on mine yet, so I don't know how exactly they're wired or mounted, hopefully this will help you with the connections though.