HappyHooligan
New member
so I've gotten the P1071 code and cleaned my maf. was okay for a day or so, and now it's back. I looked at a few hoses and found a few had cracks at the end. Would these cause the code?
Would this cause a vacuum leak?
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LittleCaesar
New member
Probably not, but it wouldn’t hurt to replace them to ensure a tighter fit.
Do you have access to a code read that can give short and long term fuel trim numbers?
02 sensors original?
Do you have access to a code read that can give short and long term fuel trim numbers?
02 sensors original?
HappyHooligan
New member
I'll see if my cheap reader does that. I did replace the upstream o2 last year.
HappyHooligan
New member
How did you know it was that? Is it cracked or just worn out? I'll inspect mine.
jgue467
Senior Member
Just inspected it while running, moved the stiff rubber towards metal intake and away, then a huge crack became apparent - it went all the way thru. You can see where I taped it up while waiting for the part to arrive from my local toyo dealer. Tape didn't really help....replaced, reset ecu and it remained with no code. The piece closest to the metal intakes takes the most heat and high temp abuse, plus an 18+ yr old rubber part has to give up sooner or later....
I had the same thing. The rubber parts of the intake tube looked good over all with a small 8mm split on the intake side of the tube. I was chasing high fuel trims. And I noticed the numbers went down when I really snugged the intakes tubes and re tighten the clamps. The numbers climbed again after a few miles, and went down when I re snugged the intake tube, found the cause of my high ft.
HappyHooligan
New member
I have the ANCEL AD310 Classic Enhanced and I don't think it does that. Which readers do that aren't hundreds of dollars?
shadow247
New member
Look into getting a TechStream Compatible Cable if you have a Windows Laptop. It's like 30 bucks for the cable, plus some free software, and you can read everything the Toyota tool reads.
Otherwise, you can drop 30 bucks on the Wireless Bluetooth Dongle and then spend 20 bucks on the Torque App to read the codes, but I would go with the Techstream.
I have tried a few versions of the Bluetooth Code readers, and they are fine for reading and resetting, but I had some issues trying to actually diagnose and chart things like Long Term Fuel Trim when diagnosing a P0420.
You can also go "old school" with the Vacuum leak diagnostic. Get a can of Carb Cleaner and spray it around the vacuum lines. If there's a leak, the engine idle will go up!
LittleCaesar
New member
Look under Live Data for the LongFT1 in a %. See how the number changes from a cold engine to full warmed up. Usually, but not every time, if a vacuum leak is present and throwing the code, the % will end up being from +-12 and greater. If you see such a number, rev the engine to around 2000 rpms and see if that % is close to 0 or the ShortFT %. If it is, and then you let off the throttle and the % becomes high again, then I would start looking for a vacuum leak.
If it were me I would clear the code, then view the Freeze Frame data the next time the code is tripped to look for any abnormalities in values.
If it were me I would clear the code, then view the Freeze Frame data the next time the code is tripped to look for any abnormalities in values.
HappyHooligan
New member
I gave mine a closer look and saw this cracking in the rubber. It's solid as a rock so I'm thinking this might be it! I'm going to order a new one anyway and then check my meter.
What do you think? It's not a huge crack but it's there and it shouldn't have a cracks in it right?
What do you think? It's not a huge crack but it's there and it shouldn't have a cracks in it right?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I gave mine a closer look and saw this cracking in the rubber. It's solid as a rock so I'm thinking this might be it! I'm going to order a new one anyway and then check my meter.
What do you think? It's not a huge crack but it's there and it shouldn't have a cracks in it right?
Bigger hoses have bigger leaks so it's worth a shot. However if you can, do the carb cleaner trick mentioned above to see if that changes your idle speed. $5 is all you need to do it (make sure the engine is COLD though).
You might have multiple leaks. The rubber in your engine bay looks toast in many places.
