XenonDepot HID vs LED, initial photo. (Pics reposted)

[MaliciousClout]

[MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] are there any promotions going on for say... a 3-weeks-before Labor Day?:behindsofa:


Needing to make a purchase soon, within the next 24 hours. Going on a 2K mile road trip and am done with these eBay HIDs that sometimes comes on (drivers side)

 

[XenonDepot]

[MENTION=2349]MaliciousClout[/MENTION]

 

[MaliciousClout]

Much obliged sir.

 

[Boyds4Runner]

Just installed the led low beams in but I have a question? Did u guys stuff all the wiring and ballast in the housing and used the dust cover or did you just leave the dust cover off?

Sent from my SM-G920T using Tapatalk

I know [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] already answered your question and you were able to get it all in and put the dust cover back on.

I just wanted to add some user experience and say that I have had them in for almost a year now, all stuffed in there and the dust cover on.

These lights have been running through the East Coast Blizzard of 2016 and the current heat-wave here in the East Coast and they have worked flawlessly so far. Nothing has melted or fused itself due to getting too hot. Also, as far as I can tell from touching the heat-cover it just gets a little bit warm but not burning hot that you can't hold your hand on it like other parts get in the engine bay.

Of-course heat on electronics takes its toll over time but so far I haven't been able to notice any diminished performance from the LED's.

 

[XenonDepot]

I know [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] already answered your question and you were able to get it all in and put the dust cover back on.

I just wanted to add some user experience and say that I have had them in for almost a year now, all stuffed in there and the dust cover on.

These lights have been running through the East Coast Blizzard of 2016 and the current heat-wave here in the East Coast and they have worked flawlessly so far. Nothing has melted or fused itself due to getting too hot. Also, as far as I can tell from touching the heat-cover it just gets a little bit warm but not burning hot that you can't hold your hand on it like other parts get in the engine bay.

Of-course heat on electronics takes its toll over time but so far I haven't been able to notice any diminished performance from the LED's.

Thanks for taking the time to post this [MENTION=3442]Boyds4Runner[/MENTION]!

 

[jonnyrey114]

Do you happen to have a picture of it all mounted up? Im going to be purchasing the low beam HID and the DRL/High Beam LED kit soon, and am looking for install options. Thanks in advance

I know [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] already answered your question and you were able to get it all in and put the dust cover back on.

I just wanted to add some user experience and say that I have had them in for almost a year now, all stuffed in there and the dust cover on.

These lights have been running through the East Coast Blizzard of 2016 and the current heat-wave here in the East Coast and they have worked flawlessly so far. Nothing has melted or fused itself due to getting too hot. Also, as far as I can tell from touching the heat-cover it just gets a little bit warm but not burning hot that you can't hold your hand on it like other parts get in the engine bay.

Of-course heat on electronics takes its toll over time but so far I haven't been able to notice any diminished performance from the LED's.

 

[XenonDepot]

[MENTION=144808]jonnyrey114[/MENTION] - Check out our HID kit and LED bulb reviews / installation DIY page for some really really great info.

Steve

 

[Boyds4Runner]

Do you happen to have a picture of it all mounted up? Im going to be purchasing the low beam HID and the DRL/High Beam LED kit soon, and am looking for install options. Thanks in advance

[MENTION=144808]jonnyrey114[/MENTION] I got the LED lowbeam kit and not the HID kit so my picture's won't help. For the LED kit it all just plugged right into the factory harness and I just stuffed it all inside the headlight housing and closed the dust cover back on everything.

Looks like [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] sent you the right way for putting in the HID kit.

I still have the factory DRL/hi-beam. Waiting around to see if an LED kit comes out that will not be as bright during DRL use and then goes full bright for hi-beam use without the resister trick that just has DRL's run at the same full-power as the hi-beam. Not sure if that will ever exist in the LED world but for now I am putting up with the amber glow of the Halogen DRL/hi-beam lights.

 

[CF_Machete]

Wow, back ordered again? I purchased the HID low/ LED High Saturday evening. No big deal as I really only have the weekends to install. I'm wondering how much this thread impacts Xenon Depot sales... it definitely tipped the scales when I pulled the trigger.

 

[XenonDepot]

[MENTION=131471]CF_Machete[/MENTION] - We strongly believe in being a asupporting vendor on different automotive forums. We have been posting on this board since 2007, but post and interact on other forums as well.

Steve

 

[susanbanthony25]

So as you can see from my posts, I am an idiot...

But now that the lights are hooked up properly and I actually put the car in gear the DRL have been flickering. High beams are perfect. Just the DRL. So I added on the anti flicker harness. The LED's do not work at all now. I checked all the connections and everything is properly connected. When I reconnect them without the anti flicker harness everything works fine except with the flicker. Any suggestions?

 

[XenonDepot]

[MENTION=144302]susanbanthony25[/MENTION] - You would need to reverse the polarity on the plug that connects into the PWM module as the modules are polarity sensitive.

Steve

 

[Jaydub514]

Hey Steve! [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION]

So I'm set on ordering the H11 Phillips 4300K HID for the lows, but wondering your take on the 9005 DRL/High beams...I noticed you guys have the new Xtreme LED kits out there for this purposes but are there any issues with flickering DRLs still? Some other brands out there haven't been able to eliminate this, just wondering if this is an issue all across the board.

Also, like some others have mentioned do you think the Xtreme 9005 kit is too much for a DRL?

Thanks!! now all I need is a killer labor day discount code :happy:

 

[jtgumy]

Im thinking of ordering the HID kit with the Philips 4300K bulbs and a set of H16 PHILIPS X-TREME LED for fogs. But i dont if i want to go with the yellows ones or white. anyone has the yellows installed and has pictures?

 

[XenonDepot]

[MENTION=138581]Jaydub514[/MENTION] - As long as you get the "Canbus" option when ordering the 9005 LED kit then you will get a module that will ensure you get no flickering at all. The bulb will be brighter, so in some cases (early dawn/dusk) you may want to switch to low beam if you are concerned about distracting other drivers.

Steve

 

[Doc_Fry]

Now considering Xenon Depot has released there clockable LED headlights with more output then the comparison between led and hid headlights is a moot point. Although, one could surmise that the 360 coverage of the hid and still more light output would be a little better overall. Thpugh, you are loosing instant on brightness, loosing a headlight that tuns cooler and for longer as well as handling shock better.


Through a
Conversation from another member we became concerned with Xenon Depots claims of 24w (2a) for the leds. We thought that it may have been total. Which would have been a bust as 24w (2a) is right at the maximum the leds can handle. But with a little research here is what I have found from talking to xenon depot.


The exact draw is 1.7A. The input current per chip is 700ma, and the input voltage per chip is 3V.

The total power of just the LED is 16.8W, and the total product power is 20.4W — the rest of the power is consumed by the driver and transferred to heat.

The maximum working current for the chip is 1200MA, so we are well below the maximum rating for the chip.

I apologize for the confusion, however I see how you were concerned given the stated 24W draw.

I personally would like to try the leds. I did purchase them already. Yet have a slight concern over items mentioned in this thread and others. If I can get the led to work well in the projector housing. Able to maximize its output and throw with clocking the light module. Without excess spill. I think that it could work well. I am very concerned that the output will only be about 1800 lumens per side per my calculations. Well below the advertised output and definitely not too much broghter than a normal Halogen bulb. What says you before I even install these? Good, bust, worth the effort, not worth the chance of being able to exchange them for hids which have over 2000 lumens per side right off the bat. With the gain of heat, non instant on, loss of service light, and gain of 360 spread.

Now I am even more confused putting it all down. I just dont know.

 

[Paragon1]

Now considering Xenon Depot has released there clockable LED headlights with more output then the comparison between led and hid headlights is a moot point. Although, one could surmise that the 360 coverage of the hid and still more light output would be a little better overall. Thpugh, you are loosing instant on brightness, loosing a headlight that tuns cooler and for longer as well as handling shock better.


Through a
Conversation from another member we became concerned with Xenon Depots claims of 24w (2a) for the leds. We thought that it may have been total. Which would have been a bust as 24w (2a) is right at the maximum the leds can handle. But with a little research here is what I have found from talking to xenon depot.


The exact draw is 1.7A. The input current per chip is 700ma, and the input voltage per chip is 3V.

The total power of just the LED is 16.8W, and the total product power is 20.4W — the rest of the power is consumed by the driver and transferred to heat.

The maximum working current for the chip is 1200MA, so we are well below the maximum rating for the chip.

I apologize for the confusion, however I see how you were concerned given the stated 24W draw.

I personally would like to try the leds. I did purchase them already. Yet have a slight concern over items mentioned in this thread and others. If I can get the led to work well in the projector housing. Able to maximize its output and throw with clocking the light module. Without excess spill. I think that it could work well. I am very concerned that the output will only be about 1800 lumens per side per my calculations. Well below the advertised output and definitely not too much broghter than a normal Halogen bulb. What says you before I even install these? Good, bust, worth the effort, not worth the chance of being able to exchange them for hids which have over 2000 lumens per side right off the bat. With the gain of heat, non instant on, loss of service light, and gain of 360 spread.

Now I am even more confused putting it all down. I just dont know.

LOL, endless options always pair with endless confusion.

My personal take is although the LED's are clockable I'm still not a fan of the fact they run at full power when in DRL mode in the high beams.

As for using them in the low beam housing, these are brighter than the ones i tested, but you still have the issue of the diodes being mounted on opposite sides of the stick, and as a result you'll inevitably block some of the throughput due to the stick not being transparent. (there's an idea Steve, maybe LED diodes mounted to a transparent "stick"? There's gotta be a way!).

Back on the high beam point, if there were a way to isolate a single diode on each side of the stick that would run on DRL power, then the rest illuminate on standard "on" power, that would be the trick to retain stock functionality.

 

[Doc_Fry]

LOL, endless options always pair with endless confusion.

My personal take is although the LED's are clockable I'm still not a fan of the fact they run at full power when in DRL mode in the high beams.

As for using them in the low beam housing, these are brighter than the ones i tested, but you still have the issue of the diodes being mounted on opposite sides of the stick, and as a result you'll inevitably block some of the throughput due to the stick not being transparent. (there's an idea Steve, maybe LED diodes mounted to a transparent "stick"? There's gotta be a way!).

Back on the high beam point, if there were a way to isolate a single diode on each side of the stick that would run on DRL power, then the rest illuminate on standard "on" power, that would be the trick to retain stock functionality.

Couple of points. When talking about the low beam LEFs I wanted to clarify something as what you said doea make it confusing. Per XD information the LEDs for the low bram have not been available until just recently as well as the high beams. It is difficult to base performance of a product based off of previous generations unless there is no substantial change. There was here between generational changes. You can see the specs on there site. Speaking of the diodes they are mounted not on just one side but two sides ie 9/3. Again like the high beams they are able to be clocked 9/3, 12/6 and will change the beam substantially. The output has been increased and still they are running under safe levels. IE again just have to ask a good company will share the exact infor though the stated output is 25W (2A) which technically is correct or 50w (4a) for the pair. It is the input power not the power at the chip. Lota of power gets lost along the way in a circuit and with heat loss. Yet, they say that each single light is powered at 16.8W (1.7A). This puts it well within the normal operation of the chip a LXZ2- type CRE 70, color 5700K. Thanks to the forum member RysiuM for his led know how. But the measured output per pair is over 3600 lumens. The math puts it right over 3900lumens. So I dont know what could be done. The biggest hirdle we have is the projector. As I have been educated the closest one can come to a perfect throw is with chips at 11/2/6 each chip has a throw of near 110-130deg. Yet, even this is mot the fault of XD but to Toyota for the housing they are using again which isnt optimized for either HID nor LEDS. The best anyone can do is make them work better than stock, good throw, brighter, beter color, good cutoff, minimum spill. Which from discussion they seem to be doing pretty well technically. Being serious about those issues as well as logitivity, adjustibility, ease of install, and durability. Again this is all subjective. I wont know for a fact beyond my personal dealing with XD and the install of the LED LB kit and how it performs for me. Then take that and another ten to twenty others input and you have a good metrics for how it will perform for a large variety if people for our single gen model of the 4runner.

Longer than I wanted. But I hope it does help. I wouldnt be able to do any of this without RysiuM.

 

[jheyesen]

Fwiw

Im thinking of ordering the HID kit with the Philips 4300K bulbs and a set of H16 PHILIPS X-TREME LED for fogs. But i dont if i want to go with the yellows ones or white. anyone has the yellows installed and has pictures?

I know this isn't what you were asking...however...if it helps, here's a shot with the Philips 4300K HID kit installed with some yellow Nokya H16 halogen fogs, all from XenonDepot.

 

[jtgumy]

I know this isn't what you were asking...however...if it helps, here's a shot with the Philips 4300K HID kit installed with some yellow Nokya H16 halogen fogs, all from XenonDepot.

Nice.. thanks man! hows driving at night with the yellow fogs?