Hans Moleman
New member
Do all color temp bulbs come with Philips bulbs? I do not see a separate Philips bulb option on the XenonDepot site so I assume all color temps come with Philips bulbs.
XenonDepot HID vs LED, initial photo. (Pics reposted)
- Thread starter Paragon1
- Start date
Just installed a 4300K Phillips kit on my wife's 4R last week but now experiencing intermittent failure to light with the passenger side ballast. Both ballasts are tucked away, under the weather striping, along the frame rail. Certainly not moisture related. Temps have been in the low to mid 40s lately...
I'll have to turn the headlights off, then turn them back on after a second. Last week, my wife said that both ballasts failed to light. She turned them off, then right back on.
These are wired to the factory harness on a 2018 4R without the relay. [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION], any ideas?
I'll have to turn the headlights off, then turn them back on after a second. Last week, my wife said that both ballasts failed to light. She turned them off, then right back on.
These are wired to the factory harness on a 2018 4R without the relay. [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION], any ideas?
XenonDepot
New member
The rebased Philips HID bulbs are only available in 4300K. All of the other color temperatures are our own XenonDepot brand bulbs which do use Philips UV Quartz glass and come with the same 3-year warranty when getting the Xtreme HID kit.
If you don't see the Philips 4300K HID bulbs listed then that would indicate they are currently back ordered. Honestly, you can't go wrong either option of the HID bulb options.
Sorry to hear you are experiencing an issue with your Xtreme HID Kit. To better help you out can you send us a PM with your order info and any details of what troubleshooting you may have done already?
Danny
rmbertoldi
New member
I was wondering this as well, apparently it's one of those "you CAN do it, but you really shouldn't" because there's no vertical cut-off from blinding the drivers in front of you? Did you go through with the install, was wondering if that was the case?
I've been looking at the new(ish) 2010-2013 standard headlight replacements that they have now, one with a halo driving light and one "projector" type so that we can still upgrade the headlight but don't have to do the full front clip upgrade to a 2014+...was hoping I'd see someone here that had tried one of these new replacements but looks like not.
Hans Moleman
New member
When do you anticipate the Philips bulbs will be back in stock? I'd rather stick with Philips.
Also I see the Philips bulbs are in stock for the motorcycle and snow mobile H11 but not for the automotive H11.
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XenonDepot
New member
Unfortunately, we don't have an ETA at this time.
Thanks for bringing that to our attention, we've removed them from those kits as well.
Danny
Jetboy
New member
Just a passing though. I had initially thought our issue was mostly with a poor quality projector. The reality is that it's a properly designed projector - for the original light source. After a discussion with an engineer who is involved in OEM production lights, all properly professionally engineered HID or other projector automotive lights are designed to reflect some light above the cutoff. Why? - because it's kinda nice to see street signs. The engineers do not attempt to eliminate light over the cutoff. They design them to send just the right amount above the cutoff. The issue we have with these is that the 4runner projectors scatter an appropriate amount of light above the cutoff for the original bulbs. With HID bulbs that are 2-3 times as bright you're sending 2-3 times as much light above the cutoff. No matter how you aim them - they're going to be brighter than they should be to other drivers. Whether you choose to do that is up to you. Just thought it might be information worth knowing as to WHY these projectors don't play well with HID bulbs.
(I have the HIDs kit that I've gone back and forth twice removing and reinstalling). I'd love to have a better solution with an appropriate projector for the HID brightness. Just haven't gotten time to do a proper bi xenon swap. Long term my intention is to put proper bi xenons (rx350?) in the fog lights where the headlights really should be height wise, then keep the Xenon Depot HIDs in the OEM projectors plus the LED brights (which are fantastic other than the DRL issue BTW) and it'll light up the night without any light bars or other additional lights.
(I have the HIDs kit that I've gone back and forth twice removing and reinstalling). I'd love to have a better solution with an appropriate projector for the HID brightness. Just haven't gotten time to do a proper bi xenon swap. Long term my intention is to put proper bi xenons (rx350?) in the fog lights where the headlights really should be height wise, then keep the Xenon Depot HIDs in the OEM projectors plus the LED brights (which are fantastic other than the DRL issue BTW) and it'll light up the night without any light bars or other additional lights.
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007Tacoma
New member
They have a solution for the DRLs now.
tdagraca20
New member
Hey Jacon, I am having the same issue. Tucked everything away very well, and it's not moisture related either. Mine is happening on the Driver side ONLY. Doesn't cut on sometimes. So I then went back in an installed with the relay to see if that would help. It did not and the issue persisted. I read somewhere that it may have to be with leaving cars in "Auto" mode...but for me, it doesn't matter if I leave it OFF, On, or IN DRL mode. If I turn the car off, and come back after an extended time, the driver side doesn't come on. I have to flip the switch.
If you got it fixed, can you tell me what you did? Did [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] resolve this? I just sent an email...but I'd love to hear back from you too since you experienced the same thing!
im looking to upgrade my stock lighting.
Unfortunately, im working with a 2010 T4R with the old school bulb housings.
That said, what kit should i get to maximize my light output for daily driving? I also drive with my fogs on but would like to switch to an amber beam.
Thanks in advance for the info.
Unfortunately, im working with a 2010 T4R with the old school bulb housings.
That said, what kit should i get to maximize my light output for daily driving? I also drive with my fogs on but would like to switch to an amber beam.
Thanks in advance for the info.
tdagraca20
New member
Thanks but the car is only 11 months old. It seems like it may be the ballast because while the car was on (and the front driver light was off) I unplugged the ballast and replugged it back in and the light came on.
Any other ideas?
tdagraca20
New member
[MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] Please reach out to me! I hope I am not killing the new kit I just got since I have to keep flipping the lights on/off to get them to fire. Done hella research and everything is connected correctly (with relay.) Followed installations steps 110%.
Same thing happens to me. If I leave my lights in any position but off upon starting the car the driver side light is out. I do have the "Auto" mode turned on, haven't tried turning it of to see if it resolves. I am also running the relays but upon reading here it doesn't seems to matter. My current solution is to always have the lights in the off position before starting the vehicle. Would like to not have to worry about this either. Any solutions?
tdagraca20
New member
BRO. This is the exact thing that I am noticing after testing since last week. Anybody hear from XenonDepot? I was on hold for 13 minutes yesterday and have tagged them here and sent two emails since Saturday. Haven't even had my kit a week.
These guys offer a great product and great service from everything I've seen and read... just hoping to hear something soon in this case specifically.
TerpRunner
New member
Ive read through here multiple times but I am wondering if I should actually install the relays on my 4runner. I don't wan tsome wiring to get fried. Got the HID kit which came with realys however haven't installed them yet as Im not sure where to actually place the ground wire, to the negative batter terminal or what about what apperas to be headlight grounding on both sides of the truck?
BagiMT
Member
Since the Phillips 4300K have been out of stock for a while I was wondering if someone installed the standard XenonDepot 4300K and how the color compares to the Phillips and the 5000K. I don't mind a slightly warm color but don't want a lot of yellow. All the pictures have found are of the Phillips 4300K.
Nope, having the same problem and [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] has not resolved. I'm getting tired of having to troubleshoot a brand new product.
This is a 2018 ORP with less than 20K miles...
XenonDepot
New member
Hey guys - first and foremost let me provide an apology for the delayed reply on the forum. You guys are important to us, and well...its been a long month!
That said, if you are experiencing a mis-fire when first starting the headlights when the engine isnt running, we:
A) Would recommend not using the automatic mode, since it will try to power the lights before the engine, and then when the engine turns on, the electrical system will suck power from the headlight circuit, leaving an in-adequate amount for the ballasts to do their thing
B) Definitely using the relay harness. That will provide a more reliable source of power for the ballasts directly from the battery, and simply use the on/off signal from the stock harness to tell it what to do.
Hopefully this helps! If not, we will be available to support you guys from here on out via the forum.
Cheers!
XD
That said, if you are experiencing a mis-fire when first starting the headlights when the engine isnt running, we:
A) Would recommend not using the automatic mode, since it will try to power the lights before the engine, and then when the engine turns on, the electrical system will suck power from the headlight circuit, leaving an in-adequate amount for the ballasts to do their thing
B) Definitely using the relay harness. That will provide a more reliable source of power for the ballasts directly from the battery, and simply use the on/off signal from the stock harness to tell it what to do.
Hopefully this helps! If not, we will be available to support you guys from here on out via the forum.
Cheers!
XD
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