XenonDepot Xtreme LED High Beam Kit

JasonKoko

New member
After the upgrade of my low-beams to the XenonDepot Extreme HID kit, I had been feeling an upgrade to the high-beams was in order. I loved working with the guys at XenonDepot, so it didn't make sense to find another supplier. They offered me the opportunity to install a new LED product they had and I jumped at the shot!

A quick note on the low-beam installation.

Installation of the low-beam was pretty straight forward. The most complicated part, really, was drilling the hole in the dust covers.

A pro-tip for the low-beam installation: spend the 15 minutes it requires to take the front bumper off and unscrew the headlight housing from their mounts. It'll make getting the old low-beam bulb out and new one in so much easier (otherwise, it's a tight fit!).

MTN4RNR did a good write up on the installation. Only thing I would add is to remove the bumper (as just mentioned) and go ahead and seal the grommet with silicon to avoid potential water intrusion that I experienced (was a pain to dry it out).

Installation of the high-beam kit.

This is what one side looks like laid out. This is all oriented in the way it will all connect.

IMG_6895.jpg


First thing's first - disconnect the negative battery terminal.

Removal of the old bulb.

IMG_6892.jpg


The original high-beam bulb just twists to the left to remove. Once you have that out, just disconnect it from the connector.

The new bulb fits right in place of the old one. Just slide it into place (note the shape of the fitting so you orient it correctly) and turn it to the right approximately a quarter turn, locking it into place.

IMG_6893.jpg


From here, you need to get everything plugged in. The plug on the inside of the grommet will plug directly into the factory plug. And the other two connectors will plug into the connectors that they fit into on the Anti Flicker Module.

This is a shot of everything plugged in, but the bulb not installed yet. I just wanted to confirm everything came on!

IMG_6894.jpg


Note: the Anti Flicker Module was provided with this kit because they high-beam bulb also doubles as the day-time running light (DRL). I think this module regulates the current/signal that goes to it to ensure it doesn't flicker when the DRL's are on. Downside is that if you choose to run DRL's during the day, this results in your DRL's just being your high-beams. This is the only way this will work as apparently there is not LED technology in automotive bulbs that allow a two stage light or dimming capability. That's all above my head, so feel free to correct me!

The DRL's running my high-beams doesn't really bother me as the purpose of DRL's is to increase visibility during the day anyway - so this works!

The last part is securing the modules, wires, etc. Now, this is my least favorite part - I'm really not good or creative with figuring out where to stash this stuff. So if you have any suggestions, let me know!

I just found various open metal places and used heavy duty 3M velcro adhesive patches to secure the components and zip tie the cables. I just check them from time to time to ensure they are still secure.

And that's it!

Here is a decent before/after comparison shot. This was sort of a tough shot to get and to be frank, it really doesn't do it justice. The quality of the high-beam is much better now and very nicely compliments the upgrade in lighting received from the Xtreme HID kit.

high-beam-before-after.jpg


I wanted to thank the guys at XenonDepot for all their help and support. Seriously, they've been really great to work with.
 
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Not looking to muck up the thread.

The DDM Saber kit does dim for DRL so being able to regulate LED is possible.

I've been curious about this kit, so thanks for posting!

-A
 
Call me crazy but I think the "before" picture has the better light quality (brightness, spread, etc)
 
Not looking to muck up the thread.

The DDM Saber kit does dim for DRL so being able to regulate LED is possible.

I've been curious about this kit, so thanks for posting!

-A

Cool! I'll have to check that out!

Call me crazy but I think the "before" picture has the better light quality (brightness, spread, etc)

You're crazy! Haha.

It's a tough one to shoot. I probably could have had a more controlled photography comparison by using full manual settings on the camera, but I didn't. In person, they are significantly brighter. The original high-beams were not brighter than the HID's, they were actually dimmer, but they did throw the light up higher.

The Xtreme LED high-beams are definitely brighter than the originals, and I would say brighter than the HID's (my unscientific opinion) AND they put the light up higher.

It was definitely a good upgrade for me.

I will say, these bulbs have the ability to be adjusted through "clocking", whereas you can actually turn them to change the beam pattern in the housing. Perhaps if I adjusted this I could optimize the spread, but I haven't fooled with that just yet.
 
Cool! I'll have to check that out!



You're crazy! Haha.

It's a tough one to shoot. I probably could have had a more controlled photography comparison by using full manual settings on the camera, but I didn't. In person, they are significantly brighter. The original high-beams were not brighter than the HID's, they were actually dimmer, but they did throw the light up higher.

The Xtreme LED high-beams are definitely brighter than the originals, and I would say brighter than the HID's (my unscientific opinion) AND they put the light up higher.

It was definitely a good upgrade for me.

I will say, these bulbs have the ability to be adjusted through "clocking", whereas you can actually turn them to change the beam pattern in the housing. Perhaps if I adjusted this I could optimize the spread, but I haven't fooled with that just yet.


Yeah, the photography can always be a tricky thing. For me, it just seems like the before picture does a better job of illuminating down the road and just down the road (which is what I would want them to do). I think the after picture has more light but it's almost too much light IMO (i.e. I dont need to see the trees on top left and top right and if I do, I think I'd rather just install a light bar).

Either way, great post and thanks for sharing.

P.S. Your roof rack link in your build thread links to your tires. You should fix it.
 
What [MENTION=107788]Trail-AMMO[/MENTION] said is true, I have the same lights but I will add they do flicker just a bit, you can tell easily by looking through a camera phone, however when looking at them with the naked eye you can't really tell, just dimmer than high beam.

Sent from my HTC6545LVW using Tapatalk
 
What [MENTION=107788]Trail-AMMO[/MENTION] said is true, I have the same lights but I will add they do flicker just a bit, you can tell easily by looking through a camera phone, however when looking at them with the naked eye you can't really tell, just dimmer than high beam.

Well, this is a concern to me as I'm one of those people that CAN see the flicker and use my camera to explain to other people what I'm seeing. It probably wouldn't be a big deal with DRLs given that I'd be behind them and not seeing the flicker since they wouldn't be illuminating anything, but I've held out on replacing them for this reason.

I am curious how these bypass the DRL PWM dimming though.
 
Well, this is a concern to me as I'm one of those people that CAN see the flicker and use my camera to explain to other people what I'm seeing. It probably wouldn't be a big deal with DRLs given that I'd be behind them and not seeing the flicker since they wouldn't be illuminating anything, but I've held out on replacing them for this reason.

I am curious how these bypass the DRL PWM dimming though.

Easy.... They run high beam all the time. Hence no dimming, full watts to the driver results in no pulse.

The DDM also has a higher lum's output in the high beam. Where these might not be as bad to run as a DRL / High all the time... But then again I want the max output that I can get in high beam.

-A
 
I was pretty curious about these as well. I love my XD HIDs for the low beams, so I was kinda hoping these would work in the dimming/flicker free combo. Seems they're about the same as the morimotos with flicker links though; full brightness all the time, or low brightness drl with flicker.

Looks like if you want dim DRLs and no flicker, you're going to need to get a pretty involved setup with actual logic to receive the signal from the car and then apply an appropriate voltage to the LEDs. Seems possible, but it's gonna take some tinkering. I'm not sure it's worth rigging up an Arduino to control my high beam intensity haha...
 
They sell a relay or something for the drl/high beam so you don't get flicker with the LED. Its on the site. I would link it but cant get to it on the work computer for some reason
 
Looks like if you want dim DRLs and no flicker, you're going to need to get a pretty involved setup with actual logic to receive the signal from the car and then apply an appropriate voltage to the LEDs. Seems possible, but it's gonna take some tinkering. I'm not sure it's worth rigging up an Arduino to control my high beam intensity haha...

Yeah, I very briefly looked into coming up with some sort of buffer or filter to make effectively an RC circuit to smooth the PWM signal but quickly realized it was going to be a pain and probably not a good idea.
 
This is exactly the thread I've been waiting for - I wasn't too keen on the flicker reports from the other guys solution...

But let me get this straight...if we go with these XD LEDs, and want no flicker - they will be running on full power all the time? So basically like the stock setup if the high beams are enabled...all the time during daylight hours if we have the DRLS switched on?

Just need clarity here, because that's obviously super bright and wouldn't feel good about that on an everyday basis!
 
This is exactly the thread I've been waiting for - I wasn't too keen on the flicker reports from the other guys solution...

But let me get this straight...if we go with these XD LEDs, and want no flicker - they will be running on full power all the time? So basically like the stock setup if the high beams are enabled...all the time during daylight hours if we have the DRLS switched on?

Just need clarity here, because that's obviously super bright and wouldn't feel good about that on an everyday basis!

You are correct. From what I'm seeing here, you will have full intensity during DRL mode with these XD bulbs (given you get the can bus option). The morimotos with flicker links behave the same way (this is what I personally have btw).

Basically, the extra circuitry is a large capacitor and voltage regulator combo that keeps the input voltage from dropping below the bulb's forward voltage. Since the PWM is a pulsed 12v signal, the regulated signal will be 12v unless you use a digital analog converter when you have a pwm signal only to convert to an analog 5vdc.
 
[MENTION=137794]JasonKoko[/MENTION],

Once installed, what is the orientation of the LED's in the housing, 12/6 o'clock or 3/9 o'clock position.
 
[MENTION=137794]JasonKoko[/MENTION],



Once installed, what is the orientation of the LED's in the housing, 12/6 o'clock or 3/9 o'clock position.



I'm not certain. I left it the way it was out of the box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Hi Guys,

I apologize for the late reply, but I literally just saw this thread.

As per your questions/comments:
[MENTION=137794]JasonKoko[/MENTION] - Thank you so much for taking the time to try these bulbs out, and I'm happy to hear that you're enjoying them :)

Light Output:

These bulbs are rated at approximately 3700 lux, which is a 22% increase in light output from our previous generation LED headlight kits. Our goal in designing this bulb was to increase and improve the light output (beam pattern), while maintaining the flexible heatsink passive cooling (no fans). We prefer the flexible heatsink as it does not get as hot as bulky fixed heatsinks (they get really hot), and we certainly wanted to say away from using a fan.

We wanted a bulb that increased light output over stock, and provided a "replace and forget" mentality -- replace it once, and you're done! For the biggest increase in light output, we still suggest going with a 4300k HID kit, but if you're looking to improve color, light output, and instant-on functionality then these bulbs will do just that!

DRL mode - These bulbs will have a slight flicker without the PWM module when installed in DRL applications -- same as the other bulbs referenced in this thread. Rather then telling people that they are "dimmable" or will "dim", we prefer to be upfront and say that they are NOT dimmable, as all you're doing by letting them flicker is burning them out -- the driver will 100% fail prematurely.

Hope this helps,

Steve
 

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