XREAS Replacement Suggestions

[WOLVERINE]

Front shocks are "coil-over" shocks, where the coil spring is over/around the shock, the rear are not coil over, the springs are seperate and located on the rear axle, just behind the spare tire.

5100's are typically used to lift the rig, when coupled with stiffer/larger springs - the aftermarket springs do the lifting - you may want to stick with stock shocks and stock height/weight rated springs - check out RockAuto. I'd do springs at the same time since you have to seperate the front assembies, to get to the shock - buying pre-assembled coilovers/strut assemblies save on labor since they are already assembled with the coil over the shock ready to install - this is usually the way to go unless you do the work yourself.

Rear springs are easy to swap, being independent from the shocks.

I would do shocks and springs at the same time. May be cheaper to find a suspension/offroad shop for labor - they may charge less being familiar with the process.

If you change front shocks & springs, it is a good idea to get an alignment - it will pay for itself over time by prolonging front end components and extending tire tread life.

Thank you for sharing your story, YetiX. Mine isn't lifted, so I guess alignment isn't necessary in my case. Unless you did it yourself, what was the labor cost like? By the way, my rear shocks don't have coils around it. If I go with a non-xreas shock, should I buy coil for all four corners? Sorry for many questions. I'm a total noob in car mechanic and just started learning stuffs with the purchase of this old 4runner

 

[YetiX]

Thank you for sharing your story, YetiX. Mine isn't lifted, so I guess alignment isn't necessary in my case. Unless you did it yourself, what was the labor cost like? By the way, my rear shocks don't have coils around it. If I go with a non-xreas shock, should I buy coil for all four corners? Sorry for many questions. I'm a total noob in car mechanic and just started learning stuffs with the purchase of this old 4runner

The coils are around the front struts, aka coilovers. The rears, as you noted are separate. We did the swap ourselves with the help of a friend who is a Toyota mechanic. To swap both ends, it should take two hours for a decent shop.

The struts themselves don't really provide any lift, it's the coil springs. (yeah yeah, I know you can increase the pre-load like with the 5100's to increase lift).

 

[gminor68]

Front shocks are "coil-over" shocks, where the coil spring is over/around the shock, the rear are not coil over, the springs are seperate and located on the rear axle, just behind the spare tire.

5100's are typically used to lift the rig, when coupled with stiffer/larger springs - the aftermarket springs do the lifting - you may want to stick with stock shocks and stock height/weight rated springs - check out RockAuto. I'd do springs at the same time since you have to seperate the front assembies, to get to the shock - buying pre-assembled strut assemblies/strut assemblies save on labor since they are already assembled with the coil over the shock ready to install - this is usually the way to go unless you do the work yourself.

Rear springs are easy to swap, being independent from the shocks.

I would do shocks and springs at the same time. May be cheaper to find a suspension/offroad shop for labor - they may charge less being familiar with the process.

If you change front shocks & springs, it is a good idea to get an alignment - it will pay for itself over time by prolonging front end components and extending tire tread life.

Hi Wolverine,

Thanks again. I could find two rear springs in the spot you mentioned. For a moment I though to myself I might have air suspension in the rear but I now know that I have coil suspension at all four corners. Thanks for the tip on alignment too. And, please, since you are an expert, let me ask one more question. What does the status of my rear shock shown in the picture (post#34) tell you? What I am not sure is whether the shock is not functional any more since it lost part of the sleeve, or it is still functional and the sleeve is just a cosmetic issue. Thanks.

 

[WOLVERINE]

I wouldn't call myself an expert, but thank you, I would say it is more than likely functional in some capacity - the shield seems to be the rusted out part - internally you could probably look up there and see if it is still sealed.

Having owned several 4runner/Tacoma platforms with over 250,000 miles - I think you'll be okay for a while - if the springs break, then it's more of an issue - ride quality is all that is suffering now if that shock is indeed shot - if it is shot, the whole x-reas system is essentially compromised since they are all hydraulically connected.

If I were you, I would drive it until funds allowed to do all 4 corners - shocks & springs. If they allow for it now, then go ahead and do it. OME (Old Man Emu) will be a rougher ride as will Bilstein - regardless of claims you read saying it feels stock, it doesn't. KYB is stock, soft and comfortable but not the best for off road endeavors.

KYB is the stock strut supplier for most Toyota vehicles - they even do most of the struts on the hoods and rear hatches in my experience - so really, KYB is OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)....just like Denso and Aisin for other Toyota Parts....

RockAuto is out of the kits for 4wd vehicles, but parting it together I came up with this $311.55 + shipping for all 4 corners, shocks & springs - if you can get a shop to do labor at 2-3 hrs only, then you're set for under $650 (It says except X-Reas because they aren't X-reas shock replacements - don't let that confuse you - these are the right shocks/assemblies) :

 

[Bluesky 07]

You can save a LOT of money if you’re comfortable with used components. There’s a link in my sig with full details but the bottom line is that I swapped my worn-out X-REAS for the TRD Offroad package from a 2015 Tacoma (25K miles) and rear springs from an ‘07 FJ Cruiser (taken off when new) for a grand total of $200. Truck rides & drives great.

 

[WOLVERINE]

^ Great way to go for a cost effective DIY solution that includes some offroad driving and height clearance benefits.

 

[gminor68]

I wouldn't call myself an expert, but thank you, I would say it is more than likely functional in some capacity - the shield seems to be the rusted out part - internally you could probably look up there and see if it is still sealed.

Having owned several 4runner/Tacoma platforms with over 250,000 miles - I think you'll be okay for a while - if the springs break, then it's more of an issue - ride quality is all that is suffering now if that shock is indeed shot - if it is shot, the whole x-reas system is essentially compromised since they are all hydraulically connected.

If I were you, I would drive it until funds allowed to do all 4 corners - shocks & springs. If they allow for it now, then go ahead and do it. OME (Old Man Emu) will be a rougher ride as will Bilstein - regardless of claims you read saying it feels stock, it doesn't. KYB is stock, soft and comfortable but not the best for off road endeavors.

KYB is the stock strut supplier for most Toyota vehicles - they even do most of the struts on the hoods and rear hatches in my experience - so really, KYB is OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer)....just like Denso and Aisin for other Toyota Parts....

RockAuto is out of the kits for 4wd vehicles, but parting it together I came up with this $311.55 + shipping for all 4 corners, shocks & springs - if you can get a shop to do labor at 2-3 hrs only, then you're set for under $650 (It says except X-Reas because they aren't X-reas shock replacements - don't let that confuse you - these are the right shocks/assemblies) :

When I looked at the top of the shock below the rotten shield, it wasn't rusted but I could see a trace of leakage. Probably that's the fluid from the inside of the shock. With that, I guess I'd better replace the xreas with the stock shocks, sooner than later. Thank you so much for searching the parts for me. You are very kind and a great help to me. Much appreciated.

 

[gminor68]

You can save a LOT of money if you’re comfortable with used components. There’s a link in my sig with full details but the bottom line is that I swapped my worn-out X-REAS for the TRD Offroad package from a 2015 Tacoma (25K miles) and rear springs from an ‘07 FJ Cruiser (taken off when new) for a grand total of $200. Truck rides & drives great.

Ha that's a good idea. But not knowing much on cars, I would rather go with new parts for peace of mind. Thanks for the idea though.

 

[Bluesky 07]

Ha that's a good idea. But not knowing much on cars, I would rather go with new parts for peace of mind. Thanks for the idea though.

Sure, that’s understandable. Wolverine’s KYB suggestion is what I would go with if I were in your place. Stock functionality at a reasonable price.

 

[JVC8790]

I'm excited to get my TRD Offroad Setup installed myself, doing a pretty similar setup to yours and refreshing all sway bar bushings and end links while I'm in there so I'm hopeful it handles like an all new truck once complete.

 

[Bluesky 07]

I'm excited to get my TRD Offroad Setup installed myself, doing a pretty similar setup to yours and refreshing all sway bar bushings and end links while I'm in there so I'm hopeful it handles like an all new truck once complete.

I probably should’ve done the links too while I was at it (just did the bushings). Handles great though so I have it on my list for next time suspension work is in order.

Looking forward to hearing how yours comes out.

 

[JVC8790]

I probably should’ve done the links too while I was at it (just did the bushings). Handles great though so I have it on my list for next time suspension work is in order.

Looking forward to hearing how yours comes out.

Absolutely! I'll have to be sure to take plenty of before/after pictures and measurements to settle the debate on the height difference on my V8 with the Tacoma Offroad Fronts.

I'm already expecting it to not do much besides level it out and hopefully ride better and any incremental lift is welcomed but not a necessity for my end goal on this project.

 

[gminor68]

I have never done an auto repair myself before (except for changing lamps a couple times) but am thinking of replacing my xreas with KYB or Bilstein shocks myself in my own garage. A bit afraid to do it but the process didn't look that complicated in the youtube videos I watched over the past couple days. So I started to make a list of the tools I will need for this task and came up with this:

- floor jack (3 ton? Recommended max height to use for 4runner?)
- jack stands
- impact driver (electric? pneumatic?)
- torque wrench (1/2"?)
- sockets: 17mm, 21mm
- wrenches (box-end): 12mm (ratcheting), 17mm
- wrenches (open-end): 6mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- pry bar (20" maybe)
- penetrating oil
- threadlocker (red)
- what else?

So, someone who had already done it before, please tell me what I missed in this list. And, if it has anything that isn't actually necessary for the task, please point that out too so I can avoid over-shopping. Thanks guys!

 

[JVC8790]

I have never done an auto repair myself before (except for changing lamps a couple times) but am thinking of replacing my xreas with KYB or Bilstein shocks myself in my own garage. A bit afraid to do it but the process didn't look that complicated in the youtube videos I watched over the past couple days. So I started to make a list of the tools I will need for this task and came up with this:

- floor jack (3 ton? Recommended max height to use for 4runner?)
- jack stands
- impact driver (electric? pneumatic?)
- torque wrench (1/2"?)
- sockets: 17mm, 21mm
- wrenches (box-end): 12mm (ratcheting), 17mm
- wrenches (open-end): 6mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- pry bar (20" maybe)
- penetrating oil
- threadlocker (red)
- what else?

So, someone who had already done it before, please tell me what I missed in this list. And, if it has anything that isn't actually necessary for the task, please point that out too so I can avoid over-shopping. Thanks guys!

My biggest concern from a newbie wrenching standpoint would be battling rust/corrosion. Other than that your list looks pretty good so far!

I wouldn't expect it to be a quick process if you're not familiar with larger wrenching projects or working on suspension specifically.

That being said, it's just nuts and bolts, its not rocket science, but I wouldn't expect to get it done quickly on your first try and certainly wouldn't start the project myself if I needed to rely on getting it done with a 4Runner as my only form of transportation.

 

[RonJR]

- Get the 6-ton jack stands. They are taller, heavier, and have a wider base for better stability compared to the cheaper 3 ton models.

- Put an 18-24" 1/2"-drive breaker bar on your list as well. Those bolts that hold the LCA to the spindle are pretty tight (torqued to ~125 ft-lbs, I believe, with loctite red on them), so will require some persuasion to get them off. You can use your 1/2" drive torque wrench as a breaker bar, but you really shouldn't treat a calibrated instrument that way.

- Are you buying the front springs and shocks pre-assembled? I wouldn't recommend assembling them yourself as a first auto mechanic project. If you are going to do it yourself, use the "no spring compressor" method
(shown here) OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forumand make sure you understand it thoroughly before proceeding. Otherwise, take your springs and shocks to a shop to have them assembled.

- Take your time, especially if things seem rusted or stuck. More force isn't always the answer. Stop and think everything through. The loaded suspension contains a tremendous amount of energy and can cause serious injury if it lets go suddenly.

- Wear gloves and safety glasses

 

[RobD]

I have never done an auto repair myself before (except for changing lamps a couple times) but am thinking of replacing my xreas with KYB or Bilstein shocks myself in my own garage. A bit afraid to do it but the process didn't look that complicated in the youtube videos I watched over the past couple days. So I started to make a list of the tools I will need for this task and came up with this:

- floor jack (3 ton? Recommended max height to use for 4runner?)
- jack stands
- impact driver (electric? pneumatic?)
- torque wrench (1/2"?)
- sockets: 17mm, 21mm
- wrenches (box-end): 12mm (ratcheting), 17mm
- wrenches (open-end): 6mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- pry bar (20" maybe)
- penetrating oil
- threadlocker (red)
- what else?

So, someone who had already done it before, please tell me what I missed in this list. And, if it has anything that isn't actually necessary for the task, please point that out too so I can avoid over-shopping. Thanks guys!

Though not a comprehensive tutorial by any means, this is my adventure. I would highly suggest a 19 mm Gear Wrench for the top nut on the rear shocks. There isn't much room there. Turning the nut slowly is your other option.

My 2003 Limited Bilstein Adventure

 

[Bluesky 07]

I have never done an auto repair myself before (except for changing lamps a couple times) but am thinking of replacing my xreas with KYB or Bilstein shocks myself in my own garage. A bit afraid to do it but the process didn't look that complicated in the youtube videos I watched over the past couple days. So I started to make a list of the tools I will need for this task and came up with this:

- floor jack (3 ton? Recommended max height to use for 4runner?)
- jack stands
- impact driver (electric? pneumatic?)
- torque wrench (1/2"?)
- sockets: 17mm, 21mm
- wrenches (box-end): 12mm (ratcheting), 17mm
- wrenches (open-end): 6mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- pry bar (20" maybe)
- penetrating oil
- threadlocker (red)
- what else?

So, someone who had already done it before, please tell me what I missed in this list. And, if it has anything that isn't actually necessary for the task, please point that out too so I can avoid over-shopping. Thanks guys!

Impact driver or wrench? They're two different tools, something I only figured out recently in prepping for this job. Thought I needed an impact wrench but other than the lug nuts, I didn't need one. I started those with a breaker bar and spun them off with an impact driver, which I have.

You'll need a 22mm wrench (not socket, a wrench) to disconnect the X-REAS fittings at the proper place (don't do them at the bolt on the shocks or you'll get a hydraulic fluid shower.)

Also, you'll need 4 jackstands b/c X-REAS removal instructions specify having all 4 wheels off the ground to relieve pressure on the shocks. And finally, when removing the struts in front, the bolt farthest in toward the engine is tough b/c you can't see it. Loosening it has to be done by feel. There's no magic bullet, just get the wrench on it and keep at it.

The post I did on this may be helpful along with the service manual files listed there. The link is in my sig. Good luck and I just did this a couple of weeks ago so lmk if you have any questions.

 

[gminor68]

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Thank you all very much. I actually wondered myself if I will need four jack stands to lift the whole vehicle off the ground. Looks like I have an answer to that now (thanks Bluesky). Yes I agree, JVC and Ron, that it could be and more likely will be a long process to do it alone let alone the risks of something going wrong. It's funny that my morale was high until I posted the tool list but now after reading you guys' advices I'm more afraid to embark on this project. I will think it over more thoroughly. BTW I called a couple suspension shops yesterday for installation price. One about 30min away from my place (north Atlanta) quoted me $625 including alignment. Another one about one hour away called $250 without alignment - cheap but this guy's review is bad so not sure I want to entrust my car to him. Well I will see what I will do. Thanks all for your input. I really like this forum.

 

[RonJR]

$250 sounds on the cheap side. That's the kind of offer where he'll do an ok job if everything goes perfectly, but will just "make do" if it doesn't, and you'll have a difficult time getting him to stand behind his work. Not what you want.

The $650 seems fairly reasonable if it includes disassembling the xreas cleanly, assembling the struts, installing everything properly, and doing the alignment. I assume you provide all the parts. Are you changing springs as well, or reusing the old ones? Re-using the front springs will save parts cost, but increase labor cost because they'll have to disassemble the old strut to get the spring out.

 

[YetiX]

I have never done an auto repair myself before (except for changing lamps a couple times) but am thinking of replacing my xreas with KYB or Bilstein shocks myself in my own garage. A bit afraid to do it but the process didn't look that complicated in the youtube videos I watched over the past couple days. So I started to make a list of the tools I will need for this task and came up with this:

- floor jack (3 ton? Recommended max height to use for 4runner?)
- jack stands
- impact driver (electric? pneumatic?)
- torque wrench (1/2"?)
- sockets: 17mm, 21mm
- wrenches (box-end): 12mm (ratcheting), 17mm
- wrenches (open-end): 6mm, 14mm, 17mm, 19mm
- pry bar (20" maybe)
- penetrating oil
- threadlocker (red)
- what else?

So, someone who had already done it before, please tell me what I missed in this list. And, if it has anything that isn't actually necessary for the task, please point that out too so I can avoid over-shopping. Thanks guys!

If you are not replacing the rear springs, the rear shocks are simple. You can even do them with the wheels on. Just need a jack and a 19 and 17 mm wrenches.

The fronts are where things get interesting because replacing the struts usually requires a spring compressor. I have seen threads and videos that espouse the "no spring compressor" method, but I haven't tried that. It does look pretty straightforward.