Are you changing springs as well, or reusing the old ones? Re-using the front springs will save parts cost, but increase labor cost because they'll have to disassemble the old strut to get the spring out.
I read in another thread that Bilstein 5100 is made to work with stock springs so you don't necessarily have to replace springs. So, that is what I was thinking doing but I agree that might increase the labor cost. If I end up having a mechanic do the job, I might buy a pre-assembled strut for the front.
The fronts are where things get interesting because replacing the struts usually requires a spring compressor. I have seen threads and videos that espouse the "no spring compressor" method, but I haven't tried that. It does look pretty straightforward.
I've read about the method too. It didn't sound so difficult.
assuming you buy the KYB coilovers that are already assembled for the front, take it to a shop, and you should only get charged 1-2 hrs for labor.
Hi Wolverine, I was aiming to go with KYB as you recommended. But reading many people who say good things about Bilstein 5100, I'm more included to it right now. So, unless I do it myself, I would buy an assembled one for front for a mechanic and do the rear myself.
The trick is to leave the wire in place, and mount the shock on the lower bolt with the nut on loosely. Then point the upper end of the shock rod at the upper mounting hole and snip the wire with a pair of side cutters. While the shock is expanding guide the rod into the hole and it will settle in nicely where it belongs.
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The only thing that makes it tricky is working it past the various obstructions in the area of the front suspension. (brake lines, CV shafts, sway bar, ABS wiring.) Just be sure to NEVER take off the top center nut unless you have the assembly locked in a spring compressor and know what you're doing.
The other day I watched a guy removing the "shipping restraint" from a new shock in a youtube video so I know exactly what you mean with the trick. It sounds a smart idea. And thanks for the heads-ups and advice.
He’s planning to pull the X-REAS, can you do that with wheels on the ground?
...Northern Tool...
where are you north of Atlanta?
Thanks for asking the question Bluesky. And this jack stand looks good. I'm in East Cobb area, outside of I-285 northern rim.
The main reason for following the FSM procedures when messing with the XREAS is to preserve the fluid in the system, since it can't be refilled in the field. If you don't care about future operation, it doesn't much matter how you take it apart. Just need to be careful that you don't spray oil all over the place, especially in your face. Wear goggles and cover the fittings with a rag when you crack them open. I think you'd actually want to get the pressure out so as to minimize leaks in the future from the plumbing that remains behind.
Good points, Ron. From the look of my rear shocks, I'm pretty sure my xreas has been leaking for a while. So I don't plan to reuse it. If I can tear it down without lifting the whole truck, it's a good news to me. I will do more searching on it.
Again, thank you all so much for generously sharing your knowledge and experience. Hope you all have a great day.