XREAS suspension

[anotherrunner83]

I was all set to attempt to replace this system myself

until I spoke to the parts guy at the dealer

I inquired about how the parts will come when I buy them. He was showing that they didn't come as an assembly.

Which means they're not a sealed system.

IDK what the actual procedure is for replacement. The new parts will obviously have breaks in the line requiring fluid and or air removal. They claim it cannot be bled, it just doesn't make sense.

I'm probably going to have to purchase access to the FSM.

Doing all this myself would be pointless if I'm not able to ensure the system is air free and operates as designed.

there are check valves at each component. they come full of oil in the fully extended position. you remove them in the same fully extended state essentially drawing most of the fluid out of the system. the amount of air that can become trapped is only the amount of air in the connection, which would be minimal IMO. it sounds pretty straight forward really. i think most of the hesitation comes from unfamiliarity with the system.

 

[084runner480]

Yeah man, definitely unfamiliar.

I'm a "why guy". I like to understand why and how things work. If the manufacture warns against certain procedures or conditions, its probably because the engineers have encountered problems there.

I just bought 2 days to Toyota TIS. Looked into XREAS and I cant find much on it. I can only find replacement of shocks w or w/o reas, and the center control cylinder.

Either I don't know how to navigate that program or its a bunch of BS in regards to it being a sealed system. There is no mention of adding or loosing fluid, bleeding, or really any kind of warnings or cautions. Hell, seems like there was more technical data on the shockwarehouse site.

Sidebar: did you mention that you've changed your timing belt twice? Is that a V8 thing?

 

[anotherrunner83]

yeah, toyota recommends the timing belt on the V8 every 6 years or 90,000 miles, whichever comes first. the thing about timing belts, they are good until they aren't...then you're toast with this motor as it is an interference motor.

i disconnect my front shocks when i added my lift. i disconnected it at the check valve and it didn't lose a drop. i was pretty surprised really. as long as your check valves are working, i think there's essentially no risk of losing fluid. as long as you don't break the line at the shock, there's really no way for air to get into the system. if you have a leak though, this changes the game a little. if fluid can get out, most like air can get in. i believe that puts you into the realm of a full new system.

rip it out and go back with "normal" shocks and pick up beefier sway bars?

 

[Powder_Hound]

I was all set to attempt to replace this system myself



until I spoke to the parts guy at the dealer



I inquired about how the parts will come when I buy them. He was showing that they didn't come as an assembly.



Which means they're not a sealed system.



IDK what the actual procedure is for replacement. The new parts will obviously have breaks in the line requiring fluid and or air removal. They claim it cannot be bled, it just doesn't make sense.



I'm probably going to have to purchase access to the FSM.



Doing all this myself would be pointless if I'm not able to ensure the system is air free and operates as designed.

There are specific points to disconnect and connect XREAS without losing ANY fluids. If done right, I believe, the shocks will have the correct fluid needed for the system. [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] might know for sure.


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[084runner480]

Thanks man, I reached out

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Thanks man, I reached out

The Disconnect points are located on the frame rail, I don't have an exact picture of where they are at the moment.

But they look like this:

The picture is from a brief post I made in regards to disconnecting them the correct way. Though it was more of a "do as I say, not as I do" thing since I got lazy and popped them off at the union bolts.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/84725-zombie-truck-2-0-mpav-build-4.html#post908040

 

[084runner480]

That's exactly what I'm looking for.

So that's it, just disconnect the components at those check valves and reinstall?


Seems pretty simple

 

[Powder_Hound]

That's exactly what I'm looking for.



So that's it, just disconnect the components at those check valves and reinstall?





Seems pretty simple

Check out page 1 of my build thread. I have some pics and XREAS information posted on there including a tutorial, if you will, on how to remove XREAS.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/213027-powder_hound-build-thread.html

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[CookieRoe]

The Disconnect points are located on the frame rail, I don't have an exact picture of where they are at the moment.

But they look like this:

The picture is from a brief post I made in regards to disconnecting them the correct way. Though it was more of a "do as I say, not as I do" thing since I got lazy and popped them off at the union bolts.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/84725-zombie-truck-2-0-mpav-build-4.html#post908040

That's neat! I guess I'm in the extreme minority on asking how to "properly install them", LOL.

 

[084runner480]

Rear spacer question

For those of you running a simple spacer on your rear springs.

I'll have to disconnect the shocks and the link for the rear sway bar and support the rear diff. Will be able to just slide the spacers over the springs and bolt it all up or will I need spring compressors.

I've talked the manager at NTB into doing this but he doesn't have any experience. Nor do I

 

[RonJR]

Rear spacer question

For those of you running a simple spacer on your rear springs.

I'll have to disconnect the shocks and the link for the rear sway bar and support the rear diff. Will be able to just slide the spacers over the springs and bolt it all up or will I need spring compressors.

I've talked the manager at NTB into doing this but he doesn't have any experience. Nor do I

You should be able to just slide the spacer over the spring without using a compressor. You might need to stick the OEM bottle jack in between the axle and frame to force the axle down far enough. Just watch the brake lines and ABS wiring carefully when you do it so you don't over extend them - you will probably have to take off a bracket or two.

The steps I used are:
- Jack up rear of vehicle and support securely with jack stands under the frame in front of rear wheels. Use the tall 6 ton stands with a wide base.
- With jack under diff, disconnect lower shock mount
- disconnect brake line/ABS wiring brackets close to wheel to allow flex
- lower jack under diff to take pressure off spring
- force axle further down with OEM jack to get space to insert spacer
- reverse process, and repeat on other side.

 

[Jason B]

Rear spacer question

For those of you running a simple spacer on your rear springs.

I'll have to disconnect the shocks and the link for the rear sway bar and support the rear diff. Will be able to just slide the spacers over the springs

I've talked the manager at NTB into doing this but he doesn't have any experience. Nor do I

You should be able to just slide the spacer over the spring without using a compressor. You might need to stick the OEM bottle jack in between the axle and frame to force the axle down far enough. Just watch the brake lines and ABS wiring carefully when you do it so you don't over extend them - you will probably have to take off a bracket or two.

The steps I used are:
- Jack up rear of vehicle and support securely with jack stands under the frame in front of rear wheels. Use the tall 6 ton stands with a wide base.
- With jack under diff, disconnect lower shock mount
- disconnect brake line/ABS wiring brackets close to wheel to allow flex
- lower jack under diff to take pressure off spring
- force axle further down with OEM jack to get space to insert spacer
- reverse process, and repeat on other side.

Correct, and it's ver easy. Maybe 45 total for both sides.

If you need a rear spacer, let me know. Can make it for you in ANY SIZE you want... Also, we typically make the driver side rear spacer slightly larger to help fix the driver side rear lean that these trucks are known for. So, it will be more level than it was from the factory after!

4th gen Lifts & Leveling kits at Burtman Industries

 

[084runner480]

Is there anybody in the Raleigh Durham area that would allow me to drive their truck around?

Looking for a gen 4 with 5100's installed, adjusted to the max 2.5 and installed rear spacers (using the stock springs).

I'm being warned by a shop that I will not be happy with the bilstiens. I think this is the only way

 

[Roadtripr]

Just another idea. I am still on XREAS but wondered about getting bilsteins 6112 front and 5160 rear when I need replacement

 

[flipflopnfly]

When I was driving my mechanic to help me check out 4runners he said, "I hope we're not looking at an XREAS if so we can turn around right now."

 

[084runner480]

Is there no one in the triangle that could help me make a decision about which way to go?

Lunch is on me

 

[simple]

Just picked up a 2007 Sport 4runner with XREAS and 96k on the clock. Before I got it, I was planning on getting 5100s and set it to 1.75. Well, I like the ride so I want to keep the XREAS and instead go with FJ springs in the front and a cornfed 1" spacer up front.

I've installed cornfed before on a 2004 SR5 and 5100s at .85 on a 2015 SR5 with little issue. My concern is with the XREAS system. I want to keep the shocks connected to the system, but I've never removed the ball joint, I've just 'finagled' the strut in and out by twisting it like a screw between the rod and axle. I'm guessing I can't do this with XREAS. Has anybody installed a 1" spacer with XREAS? Did you have to take apart the upper ball joint?

Thank

 

[RonJR]

Just picked up a 2007 Sport 4runner with XREAS and 96k on the clock. Before I got it, I was planning on getting 5100s and set it to 1.75. Well, I like the ride so I want to keep the XREAS and instead go with FJ springs in the front and a cornfed 1" spacer up front.

I've installed cornfed before on a 2004 SR5 and 5100s at .85 on a 2015 SR5 with little issue. My concern is with the XREAS system. I want to keep the shocks connected to the system, but I've never removed the ball joint, I've just 'finagled' the strut in and out by twisting it like a screw between the rod and axle. I'm guessing I can't do this with XREAS. Has anybody installed a 1" spacer with XREAS? Did you have to take apart the upper ball joint?

Thank

First, you have to realize that, with XREAS, you can't fully remove the strut at all. You pretty much have to do everything "in situ", so you can't pull the strut out, disassemble it on the bench, and replace the springs with the FJ coils. You'll have to do that right there on the vehicle, which either means using spring compressors under the vehicle, or using the "no spring compressor method" described here.
OME Install - no spring compressor - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

The easiest way to free up space is to remove the sway bar and then remove the two lower bolts that hold the LCA to the steering knuckle. That will allow you to pry the LCA down and make room to install the cornfed spacer. I didn't touch the UBJ when I installed my Daystar spacer, but I didn't change the springs, either.

Frankly, I think I'd just put in the spacer and leave the FJ spring swap for later, when you get to the point where the XREAS shocks need to be replaced with something else.

 

[084runner480]

So, funny story

I'm at the off road shop today coordinating when I'm going to get the bilsteins installed.

They ask to look at the rest of the suspension because it does have 174K on it, and hey, I've already asked them to replace one bad axle. So yeah, I tell em to go a head and take a look.

A few min later they tell me I need new lower ball joints, and tie rods.

"Okay" I said. "can you show me?"

So no shit there I was, laying on a creeper, listening and observing as the tech explained to me how each part was bad, while the service writer was turning the steering wheel.

First is the "tie rods". The tech points out the steering system slightly slide left and right as the steering wheel is turned, the movement is in the rubber bushings. (which I'm fairly certain is their purpose) Somehow, this bushing movement is making the tie rods bad. IDK, moving on.

Next, I ask about the lower ball joints, so they jack up the truck, the tech yells out "BUDDY". The buddy came over immediately and used a pry bar to pry the tire up. This is where he showed me how the ball joint became compressed, slightly. I'd say less than 1/8 of an inch of upward movement, maybe 1/16th.

So, I'm thinking a couple things right now, (after noticing a list of "total mechanics sales" posted on the wall):

1. (Pitch set up) I realized the tech needed a buddy, but he didn't even tell him why he needed him. It was almost rehearsed, like the demonstration had been done a thousand times before.

2. (The pitch) After he demonstrated the maintenance required. I looked at him and said, "You know, I'm a maintenance test pilot for helicopters, I understand a thing or two about maintenance. Are you telling me that these ball joints and tie rods meet replacement criteria? You're telling me that they're out of spec?

He reversed himself immediately. His actual words were, "Well if my old lady was driving this thing I'd slap an axle on it and let her go."

So, I'm not saying I know it all about maintenance, and I should probably be more familiar with what I drive, but wow.. Lets just pretend I don't have a mechanical aptitude, they would've eaten me alive.

I'd like to give them the benefit of the doubt but it felt like sales to me. Am I wrong?

I don't wrench on cars and trucks much but I'm pretty sure the bad movement in a ball joint would be lateral, not very very slightly vertical.

 

[084runner480]

I went with the 5100's

I raised it to the max 2.5 in the front. Because I'm a fan of the forward rake the Rear got new springs that are about 2" taller.

The 5100's were an improvement to my worn out suspension. However, I'm not happy with ride quality. It doesn't ride "sporty", like some have described. It rides bouncy, like a light truck.

It feels just like my 08 Tacoma that had TRD on it. I hated that ride.

Now my 4runner drives like a truck. Should've put new XREAS on it. Fail.
At least it looks cool.

original wheel well height:
Front: 33.25
Rear: 35.25

5100 Front: 35.75
5100 Rear: 38.25

I have some discrepancies on the lift but it may be due to tire size. The front driver tire is my spare that is brand new and the rest are tires with 74K on them. So, I'll take another look after I get my tires and spacers on.

New tires are going on today, I'll post some before and after pics.