y=mx+b's Build Thread
- Thread starter y=mx+b
- Start date
5th gen Trail Wheels
Hey Man! Love the build - you've got me thinking about fabbing up my own skid plates now too...
I wanted to chime in about the Trail wheels - I have them on my 04 SE!
I wanted to change em up for not too much money, so I actually used Anthracite Grey Hyper Dip from DipYourCar.com to do it for about $60 total. Running without the center caps - looks better in my opinion.
Attached a pic, let me know if you have any questions!
Hey Man! Love the build - you've got me thinking about fabbing up my own skid plates now too...
I wanted to chime in about the Trail wheels - I have them on my 04 SE!
I wanted to change em up for not too much money, so I actually used Anthracite Grey Hyper Dip from DipYourCar.com to do it for about $60 total. Running without the center caps - looks better in my opinion.
Attached a pic, let me know if you have any questions!
Attachments
Last edited:
y=mx+b
New member
Dude those look awesome with that color! I have been on the fence about the center caps, and yours looks great without them. May have to take mine off and see how I like it
Thanks! I'm bummed I didn't finish the skids this weekend due to rain, but I'll attach a little progress picture. Hopefully this weekend or next the front skid will be finished.
Dude nice! Skids are looking great. I would say I really like the center caps when the wheels are stock colored. When I dipped everything, it changed the way the caps looked and they just didn't fit the look right for some reason. I shot the lugs with matte black paint while the wheels were off and hit the rear axle ends with the same paint so it ties in the look without the caps on.
y=mx+b
New member
Nice, didn't notice the black lugs at first, but thats a nice touch! Definitely ties it all together, the black on gunmetal is a good look
y=mx+b
New member
Nothing particularly interesting to update. This thread is mostly aimed to show the journey from being a 4runner newb, to wherever I end up, so I think its important to include some of the baby steps. I also want to documentation to exist for others that may have similar issues, like overheat on early 1GR, etc
Mostly wanted to post the oil Analysis to tie up the loose ends from the radiator crack incident.
Been tied up with various other things on the weekends, so no major progress on the skids. This weekend I'll have some time, but not enough to finish the first skid.
<a id="oilchange221">Oil Change - 221k miles - 4k interval</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Changed my oil. Seems Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 is getting really hard to find. Last time I had to try two different walmarts, and this time 3 with no luck. Only found 5w-20 in the Gas truck. I like using the same oil for the consistency of analysis, so I was bummed. This time I used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-30 made from Natural Gas. Honestly went with this one because I heard it on a radio ad lol, I guess the marketing worked.
Had the supervisor on the job as well. This is Abby, we got her when I was in the fourth grade and she is awesome
And here is the result of the last oil change. The oil change that spanned the radiator crack/overheat incident was lost in the mail. Fortunately, this one made it to Blackstone alright. I'm also glad I built up some data points before this, because when things go wrong, I have previous data to compare to. The overheat happened at about 215k miles, so I've now been 6k since that. Luckily, I seemed to escape without significant damage to the HG.
And I changed my air filter, since I don't remember when it was last changed. I got it from the dealer in hopes of finding some indication of who the supplier was, but no luck. I'm sure I could have just googled it too. Was only $5 more expensive than the parts store, so no biggie
Also reached this fun number!
Dobinson's Incoming!
I did order Dobinson's after getting hung up on my frame on the last off-roading trip. The original suspension now has 222k+ miles on it, so really time to replace that anyway.
Went with 3" all around because I like the factory rake and the rear "long travel" for all the flecks. Still haven't ordered the SPCs yet, but I'm hoping to squeeze them from Mevotech Adjustable on RockAuto.
For tires, I don't really want to do 285s because its too mainstream lol. I like 295s because they're slightly bigger, but might not limit uptravel as much from hitting the bottom of the fender/flare. Unfortunately, most 295s are almost as expensive as the Kenda Klever 35x10.5s, which gives me ideas haha. Also don't want to spend too much money because school is expensive, but also would be a great time to do a bumper lol. I'm really snowballing, this website isn't good for me
Mostly wanted to post the oil Analysis to tie up the loose ends from the radiator crack incident.
Been tied up with various other things on the weekends, so no major progress on the skids. This weekend I'll have some time, but not enough to finish the first skid.
<a id="oilchange221">Oil Change - 221k miles - 4k interval</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Changed my oil. Seems Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 is getting really hard to find. Last time I had to try two different walmarts, and this time 3 with no luck. Only found 5w-20 in the Gas truck. I like using the same oil for the consistency of analysis, so I was bummed. This time I used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-30 made from Natural Gas. Honestly went with this one because I heard it on a radio ad lol, I guess the marketing worked.
Had the supervisor on the job as well. This is Abby, we got her when I was in the fourth grade and she is awesome
And here is the result of the last oil change. The oil change that spanned the radiator crack/overheat incident was lost in the mail. Fortunately, this one made it to Blackstone alright. I'm also glad I built up some data points before this, because when things go wrong, I have previous data to compare to. The overheat happened at about 215k miles, so I've now been 6k since that. Luckily, I seemed to escape without significant damage to the HG.
And I changed my air filter, since I don't remember when it was last changed. I got it from the dealer in hopes of finding some indication of who the supplier was, but no luck. I'm sure I could have just googled it too. Was only $5 more expensive than the parts store, so no biggie
Also reached this fun number!
Dobinson's Incoming!
I did order Dobinson's after getting hung up on my frame on the last off-roading trip. The original suspension now has 222k+ miles on it, so really time to replace that anyway.
Went with 3" all around because I like the factory rake and the rear "long travel" for all the flecks. Still haven't ordered the SPCs yet, but I'm hoping to squeeze them from Mevotech Adjustable on RockAuto.
For tires, I don't really want to do 285s because its too mainstream lol. I like 295s because they're slightly bigger, but might not limit uptravel as much from hitting the bottom of the fender/flare. Unfortunately, most 295s are almost as expensive as the Kenda Klever 35x10.5s, which gives me ideas haha. Also don't want to spend too much money because school is expensive, but also would be a great time to do a bumper lol. I'm really snowballing, this website isn't good for me
Last edited:
montijo505
Senior Member
Nothing particularly interesting to update. This thread is mostly aimed to show the journey from being a 4runner newb, to wherever I end up, so I think its important to include some of the baby steps. I also want to documentation to exist for others that may have similar issues, like overheat on early 1GR, etc
Mostly wanted to post the oil Analysis to tie up the loose ends from the radiator crack incident.
Been tied up with various other things on the weekends, so no major progress on the skids. This weekend I'll have some time, but not enough to finish the first skid.
<a id="oilchange221">Oil Change - 221k miles - 4k interval</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Changed my oil. Seems Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 is getting really hard to find. Last time I had to try two different walmarts, and this time 3 with no luck. Only found 5w-20 in the Gas truck. I like using the same oil for the consistency of analysis, so I was bummed. This time I used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-30 made from Natural Gas. Honestly went with this one because I heard it on a radio ad lol, I guess the marketing worked.
Had the supervisor on the job as well. This is Abby, we got her when I was in the fourth grade and she is awesome
And here is the result of the last oil change. The oil change that spanned the radiator crack/overheat incident was lost in the mail. Fortunately, this one made it to Blackstone alright. I'm also glad I built up some data points before this, because when things go wrong, I have previous data to compare to. The overheat happened at about 215k miles, so I've now been 6k since that. Luckily, I seemed to escape without significant damage to the HG.
And I changed my air filter, since I don't remember when it was last changed. I got it from the dealer in hopes of finding some indication of who the supplier was, but no luck. I'm sure I could have just googled it too. Was only $5 more expensive than the parts store, so no biggie
Also reached this fun number!
Dobinson's Incoming!
I did order Dobinson's after getting hung up on my frame on the last off-roading trip. The original suspension now has 222k+ miles on it, so really time to replace that anyway.
Went with 3" all around because I like the factory rake and the rear "long travel" for all the flecks. Still haven't ordered the SPCs yet, but I'm hoping to squeeze them from Mevotech Adjustable on RockAuto.
For tires, I don't really want to do 285s because its too mainstream lol. I like 295s because they're slightly bigger, but might not limit uptravel as much from hitting the bottom of the fender/flare. Unfortunately, most 295s are almost as expensive as the Kenda Klever 35x10.5s, which gives me ideas haha. Also don't want to spend too much money because school is expensive, but also would be a great time to do a bumper lol. I'm really snowballing, this website isn't good for me
I’m seriously considering the 35x10.5 Kenda as my next tire. The wildpeaks still have plenty of life left though, so I’m not in a rush.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
momo.75
Registered User
Wild Thing
New member
:lol:
You and me both, Y...
Dobinsons, bumper/winch, TRD wheels, & new tires imminent. Sheesh.
Somethin's gonna give. Hope it's not a heart valve.
The tires'll be 255/80R17s in Falken or Toyo, dependin' on what my local guy can do for me. Not a rock crawler, I like narrower tires for cuttin' through mud and snow to hardpan. Helped in WY a fair bit.
Abby looks great for her age!
montijo505
Senior Member
Get those tires already!.....lol.....you always say that to me.....:
Touché sir, these wildpeaks are wearing like iron. I’ve got about 20k on them and they still look pretty much new. Suppose I could always buy the new and sell these......
Unlike you I have the V6 though, so I’m worried about the MPG hit going from P rated 285 (51 lbs a tire) to the E load 35’s (67 lbs a tire).
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
montijo505
Senior Member
I’ve been looking at pizza cutters also, I would likely do the Toyo RT 255/80/17. 33” and 56 lbs not bad. Price isn’t too hard to swallow either.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
mgson
New member
xtremewlr
Member
Nothing particularly interesting to update. This thread is mostly aimed to show the journey from being a 4runner newb, to wherever I end up, so I think its important to include some of the baby steps. I also want to documentation to exist for others that may have similar issues, like overheat on early 1GR, etc
Mostly wanted to post the oil Analysis to tie up the loose ends from the radiator crack incident.
Been tied up with various other things on the weekends, so no major progress on the skids. This weekend I'll have some time, but not enough to finish the first skid.
<a id="oilchange221">Oil Change - 221k miles - 4k interval</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
Changed my oil. Seems Shell Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30 is getting really hard to find. Last time I had to try two different walmarts, and this time 3 with no luck. Only found 5w-20 in the Gas truck. I like using the same oil for the consistency of analysis, so I was bummed. This time I used Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic 5w-30 made from Natural Gas. Honestly went with this one because I heard it on a radio ad lol, I guess the marketing worked.
Had the supervisor on the job as well. This is Abby, we got her when I was in the fourth grade and she is awesome
And here is the result of the last oil change. The oil change that spanned the radiator crack/overheat incident was lost in the mail. Fortunately, this one made it to Blackstone alright. I'm also glad I built up some data points before this, because when things go wrong, I have previous data to compare to. The overheat happened at about 215k miles, so I've now been 6k since that. Luckily, I seemed to escape without significant damage to the HG.
And I changed my air filter, since I don't remember when it was last changed. I got it from the dealer in hopes of finding some indication of who the supplier was, but no luck. I'm sure I could have just googled it too. Was only $5 more expensive than the parts store, so no biggie
Also reached this fun number!
Dobinson's Incoming!
I did order Dobinson's after getting hung up on my frame on the last off-roading trip. The original suspension now has 222k+ miles on it, so really time to replace that anyway.
Went with 3" all around because I like the factory rake and the rear "long travel" for all the flecks. Still haven't ordered the SPCs yet, but I'm hoping to squeeze them from Mevotech Adjustable on RockAuto.
For tires, I don't really want to do 285s because its too mainstream lol. I like 295s because they're slightly bigger, but might not limit uptravel as much from hitting the bottom of the fender/flare. Unfortunately, most 295s are almost as expensive as the Kenda Klever 35x10.5s, which gives me ideas haha. Also don't want to spend too much money because school is expensive, but also would be a great time to do a bumper lol. I'm really snowballing, this website isn't good for me
Not that hard to find if you buy it online
https://www.amazon.com/Shell-Rotella-Synthetic-Pickups-Single-Pack/dp/B07MSQ6TP2
I have been a fan of Rotella oils for a while now. I prefer the Rotella T6 full synthetic tho. Shell seems to have discovered that people like the oil so much and run it in so many different vehicles than what it was intended for, they are now making a T6 multi-vehicle version of it in 5w30. The regular T6 is 5w40 but works fine in all engines. I've used it in motorcycles and all my 4 wheeled vehicles, including my daughter's 2013 Tacoma.
https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/pro...-vehicle-5w-30-full-synthetic-heavy-duty.html
Sorry, not trying to turn this into an oil thread! :lalala:
y=mx+b
New member
Get those tires already!.....lol.....you always say that to me.....
I've got 18k on my wildpeaks and they're also wearing fairly well too, no real reason to get rid of them other than the lift. I'd like to avoid the little tires with increased height, but I'm not opposed to rocking it for a little bit.
Theres a brand new set of the Kenda Klever full width 35x12.50s for sale an hour away from me, which is probably not a good idea, but its tempting lol. I am liking the 10.50 width more and more, so I'm looking into those
Also v6 gang, so I'd be looking at regearing pretty soon after any big boi tires. Right now until at least June, I'll be doing a lot of highway driving, so not keen on making the drivability much worse. Lot of choices to make
Not that hard to find if you buy it online
Amazon.com: Shell Rotella - 550050319 Gas Truck Full Synthetic 5W-30 Motor Oil for Pickups and SUVs (5-Quart, Pack of 1): Automotive
I have been a fan of Rotella oils for a while now. I prefer the Rotella T6 full synthetic tho. Shell seems to have discovered that people like the oil so much and run it in so many different vehicles than what it was intended for, they are now making a T6 multi-vehicle version of it in 5w30. The regular T6 is 5w40 but works fine in all engines. I've used it in motorcycles and all my 4 wheeled vehicles, including my daughter's 2013 Tacoma.
Full Synthetic Diesel Oil | Shell ROTELLA(R) T6 Multi-Vehicle | Shell ROTELLA(R)
Sorry, not trying to turn this into an oil thread! :lalala:
When I want my oil, I want it now!!!!! I've seen it cheap online before, so price might be up now, but $34 is a lot of monies vs $18 in walmart :smash:
I'm a fan of the Shell Rotella Gas truck, so I hope its no phasing out of Walmart. I'll look into the T6
hahaha, yeah its getting spendy. Sounds like you have a lot of goodies in store! I usually like wide tires, but those 35x10.5 may have swayed me onto the skinny tire train
Abby used to chase a tennis ball every day for a half hour+ and walk 3-4 times a day, so shes in good shape. As shes gotten older, one of her back legs doesn't like running as much. Although if given the opportunity, she would run until it falls off, kick it to the side, and keep running some more lol
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xtremewlr
Member
$34 at WallyWorld as well for the 5 quart bottle. At least online.
Shell Rotella Gas Truck Full Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-30, 5 Quart - Walmart.com - Walmart.com
$26/1 gallon bottle online at WallyWorld for the T6 5w30 Multi-vehicle stuff.
Shell Rotella T6 Multi-Vehicle Full Synthetic 5W-40 Diesel Engine Oil, 1 Gallon (Single) - Walmart.com - Walmart.com
$22 for the regular 5w40 T6 stuff.
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 Full Synthetic Heavy Duty Diesel Engine Oil, 1 gal - Walmart.com - Walmart.com
I usually buy a gallon or 2 when I see it on sale somewhere. The V8 4runner takes about 6 quarts with filter.
y=mx+b
New member
Crap well maybe the price is going up danggit lol. Yeah I'll be looking at the T6 and like you mentioned, people like it for bikes too, so would be nice to have everything running the same stuff and just have it around
Drift Monkey
New member
Rip off! Kirkland Signature 5w-30 FTW!
y=mx+b
New member
<a id="frontskid">Front Skid: T-case and Oil Pan</a> | <a target="_self" href="!287301!4th-gen-t4rs/287301-y=mx-bs-build-thread.html#directory" >Return to Directory</a>
I was waiting to post all of the pictures until I was finally finished, and I finally got all the welding done this weekend. I've got a lot of pictures to share, so this may be a long one
After my stock height off roading, the skids had certainly seen better days:
This was after the snowy and rocky AOAA trip
This bolt ripped out of the frame after Wolf Den, but the mud held it in the hanger lol
Here are the skids off, can see there's a tad bit of damage
So as a project and to save some money, I decided I would make some skids. I picked up 3ftx6ft of 3/16" plate from Metal Supermarkets. Pro tip: duct tape the edges so they don't cut your hands or your interior
To begin, I cut myself out a piece the rough dimensions of the front underside and some blocks to space down from the diff mounting arms. These blocks are 1/8" wall 2" square tube with 1/8" plate welded on top
I also knew I wanted it to be as high clearance as possible, so I cut a hole for the diff to pass through and bent the plate to match the height difference between the mid and rear crossmembers of the front skid. To bend, I scored the plate with a grinder, then clamped two boards on either side of the piece, and bent it to fit.
I then bent it the opposite way to fit up with the rearward crossmember. I kept the scores on the inside of the skid to reduce the amount of grinding/beautification I would have to do in the end, because it was angled up. Not a huge loss, but could have been better
Next, cutting a piece for the front. I kept this as a separate piece to try and make construction simpler. The top angle piece is bent as well, and this one was particularly hard because it was too slim to really get a good grasp on.
Here was also a potential improvement for clearance that I may make in the future. I miscalculated that the angled piece would be further forward when it reached the tip of the front diff arm
And here is the first look at the full skid underneath the 4runner. At this time, the weight is 37lbs
I was waiting to post all of the pictures until I was finally finished, and I finally got all the welding done this weekend. I've got a lot of pictures to share, so this may be a long one
After my stock height off roading, the skids had certainly seen better days:
This was after the snowy and rocky AOAA trip
This bolt ripped out of the frame after Wolf Den, but the mud held it in the hanger lol
Here are the skids off, can see there's a tad bit of damage
So as a project and to save some money, I decided I would make some skids. I picked up 3ftx6ft of 3/16" plate from Metal Supermarkets. Pro tip: duct tape the edges so they don't cut your hands or your interior
To begin, I cut myself out a piece the rough dimensions of the front underside and some blocks to space down from the diff mounting arms. These blocks are 1/8" wall 2" square tube with 1/8" plate welded on top
I also knew I wanted it to be as high clearance as possible, so I cut a hole for the diff to pass through and bent the plate to match the height difference between the mid and rear crossmembers of the front skid. To bend, I scored the plate with a grinder, then clamped two boards on either side of the piece, and bent it to fit.
I then bent it the opposite way to fit up with the rearward crossmember. I kept the scores on the inside of the skid to reduce the amount of grinding/beautification I would have to do in the end, because it was angled up. Not a huge loss, but could have been better
Next, cutting a piece for the front. I kept this as a separate piece to try and make construction simpler. The top angle piece is bent as well, and this one was particularly hard because it was too slim to really get a good grasp on.
Here was also a potential improvement for clearance that I may make in the future. I miscalculated that the angled piece would be further forward when it reached the tip of the front diff arm
And here is the first look at the full skid underneath the 4runner. At this time, the weight is 37lbs
y=mx+b
New member
Front Skid: T-case and Oil Pan (Continued)
The next weekend, I got started on the diff bumpout cover
Because of the shape of the rearward crossmember, I needed to make some spacers. I ended up doing 3 of these 3/16" donuts higher. In hindsight, I should have made some little risers like the front had, just out of smaller material. Then I would have the bolt head below the surface
Next, I used some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to make the side gussets
These had to be clearanced on the passenger side for the LCA mount, but not on the driver side. I stared at these a while to try and figure out of the mounts themselves are different, and I think they are
I got caught up with a few other things on the weekends, so I didn't get back to this for another two weeks. Consequently, I didn't get as many pictures as I would have liked
Next up was drilling the oil drain hole with a 2" hole saw. I made some marks with a sharpie in the x and y directions, then connected them with straight lines. And that method turned out to be fairly inaccurate, since my plug was splitting the line on my hole
Thankfully, I could just weld the cookie back in and try again. That is one big advantage to metal
Around this time, both of the holes I'd been using for the main mounts on the 2" blocks happened to strip out. I really should have expected this, since I already drilled and retapped them from when the stock bolts broke. There must have been some old bolt chunks that loosened up. Thankfully, the stock m8 weld nuts were able to be drilled and tapped to m10. I used one of those "impact rated" Milwaukee drill taps and it went smoothly until it didn't. The drill tap broke off in the hole!! I was being very careful back and forth to clear chips because I was skeptical of these, in addition to using my old and weak little 12v impact. Thankfully, it loosened up with a few hits with the needle scaler and wasn't really stuck in there. I was trying to disintegrate it with the needle scaler hits, but was able to just unscrew it with vice grips. I hate tapping holes upside down, and was really hoping this would be a good solution
Once that was resolved, I went to make some gussets for the plate. I didn't really get good pictures of this process, but I used the CAD to make templates and copy them to the plate. Two up on the front, two under/next to the pan, and one sideways one. I was scared to do one under the pan, as I didn't want one coming up and hitting it, but also wanted that area to be strong. I ended up using a little gusset there to hopefully meet both goals. the sideways one I put on there just as an experiment, since I don't usually see a lot of skids with one in this direction but its a long flat span
Front here, I was ready to begin finish welding. I started with the mounting blocks and the diff cover. I'm getting better at rounding my corners, which really helps to visually clean things up. These were also media blasted for fun, so thats why they are matte looking.
The next weekend, I got started on the diff bumpout cover
Because of the shape of the rearward crossmember, I needed to make some spacers. I ended up doing 3 of these 3/16" donuts higher. In hindsight, I should have made some little risers like the front had, just out of smaller material. Then I would have the bolt head below the surface
Next, I used some CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to make the side gussets
These had to be clearanced on the passenger side for the LCA mount, but not on the driver side. I stared at these a while to try and figure out of the mounts themselves are different, and I think they are
I got caught up with a few other things on the weekends, so I didn't get back to this for another two weeks. Consequently, I didn't get as many pictures as I would have liked
Next up was drilling the oil drain hole with a 2" hole saw. I made some marks with a sharpie in the x and y directions, then connected them with straight lines. And that method turned out to be fairly inaccurate, since my plug was splitting the line on my hole
Thankfully, I could just weld the cookie back in and try again. That is one big advantage to metal
Around this time, both of the holes I'd been using for the main mounts on the 2" blocks happened to strip out. I really should have expected this, since I already drilled and retapped them from when the stock bolts broke. There must have been some old bolt chunks that loosened up. Thankfully, the stock m8 weld nuts were able to be drilled and tapped to m10. I used one of those "impact rated" Milwaukee drill taps and it went smoothly until it didn't. The drill tap broke off in the hole!! I was being very careful back and forth to clear chips because I was skeptical of these, in addition to using my old and weak little 12v impact. Thankfully, it loosened up with a few hits with the needle scaler and wasn't really stuck in there. I was trying to disintegrate it with the needle scaler hits, but was able to just unscrew it with vice grips. I hate tapping holes upside down, and was really hoping this would be a good solution
Once that was resolved, I went to make some gussets for the plate. I didn't really get good pictures of this process, but I used the CAD to make templates and copy them to the plate. Two up on the front, two under/next to the pan, and one sideways one. I was scared to do one under the pan, as I didn't want one coming up and hitting it, but also wanted that area to be strong. I ended up using a little gusset there to hopefully meet both goals. the sideways one I put on there just as an experiment, since I don't usually see a lot of skids with one in this direction but its a long flat span
Front here, I was ready to begin finish welding. I started with the mounting blocks and the diff cover. I'm getting better at rounding my corners, which really helps to visually clean things up. These were also media blasted for fun, so thats why they are matte looking.
y=mx+b
New member
Front Skid: T-case and Oil Pan (Continued)
Before fully finish welding, I decided I needed some bolt protection for the rear bolts. Two layers of 3/16" was the perfect height to cover the bolt head, and I did two layers like stair steps to hopefully help it go over rocks easier. The interior area is large enough for the head, socket, and a decent amount of wiggle room
This is again where come clearance could be improved with making a tube block for the bolt to rest inside. Can see how both needs spacers on the back and protection on the top make it a tall arrangement. If these would sit below the plate surface, then that would be better for clearance. Oh well, its not terrible
And finally finished welded all the way. I ground all of the outside welds, and left the inside ones since no one will see them. Next step is to paint, and then it will be ready for install!
[url=https://imgur.com/E03AdAD]
[/url]
These are some welds that I thought looked good. Feel free to give constructive advice, as I'm always learning. Overall, not bad for the Harbor Freight Buzz box. It's the Titanium EasyFlux 125. Moving to a 20amp outlet from a 15amp really helped to minimize the trips to the breaker
I'll update with more pics once its painted and installed
Before fully finish welding, I decided I needed some bolt protection for the rear bolts. Two layers of 3/16" was the perfect height to cover the bolt head, and I did two layers like stair steps to hopefully help it go over rocks easier. The interior area is large enough for the head, socket, and a decent amount of wiggle room
This is again where come clearance could be improved with making a tube block for the bolt to rest inside. Can see how both needs spacers on the back and protection on the top make it a tall arrangement. If these would sit below the plate surface, then that would be better for clearance. Oh well, its not terrible
And finally finished welded all the way. I ground all of the outside welds, and left the inside ones since no one will see them. Next step is to paint, and then it will be ready for install!
[url=https://imgur.com/E03AdAD][/url]These are some welds that I thought looked good. Feel free to give constructive advice, as I'm always learning. Overall, not bad for the Harbor Freight Buzz box. It's the Titanium EasyFlux 125. Moving to a 20amp outlet from a 15amp really helped to minimize the trips to the breaker
I'll update with more pics once its painted and installed
Last edited:
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