Yet another front end cap mod and ARB bumper install

[scshack]

I wanted to share my experience with installing the ARB bumper on my 3rd gen 2002 4runner. I also did the "end cap mod" because I plan on using the winch and this vehicle is really used for off-roading. See picture below.

I hired a welder to fabricate a 2in x 3in a piece of sheet metal that was 1/4in thick to be welded on the end caps of the frame. With this piece, he centered and welded a 1/2in (inner diameter, 19mm outer diameter) nut. The bumper slips would be bolted to this pieces and create another (much stronger) anchor point. Once they were welded in place, I painted the end caps to ensure no future rusting would occur (just some black Rustoleum spray paint).

At this point, the bumper was ready to be installed. It's important to note the bolt that screws into the welded "end cap mod" nut needs to be 3/4in length (1in might be too long). If it's too long it will hit the other bolt you need to install the bumper slips, perpendicular. Any shorter and it will not catch enough threads in the welded on nut. For the bumper install, I certainly needed help getting the bumper mounted on the truck, but with a couple of pairs of hands and a rubber mallet, it will mount and fit.

I installed a Smittybilt X20 Comp 10K winch
into the bumper and it fit great with no fitting issues. I did need to clock the clutch/free spool/engage handle. I did not clock the power hook-ups, but I advise clocking it. It was a b**** to install the cables without clocking it, but once the bumper is on, I really don't want to have to take it off.

I decided to mount the control box for the Smittybilt winch under the hood, specifically under the truck battery. There was a bracket that came with the ARB bumper that pairs nicely with the control box bolts on with some other ARB-supplied bolts under the truck battery (there are several accessible holes down there from the wheel well). Remember this bumper is for a Taco so most of the supplied hardware is not used.

I also mounted these 7in LED lights and used this wiring harness to install and mount the button to my dashboard. I did not need to drill holes into the bumper as the light mount holes were already available and pre-drilled.

Here are the D-hooks/shackles I used that are in the pictures.

Here are the prices and costs for the parts, and costs for the welder and a helping hand:

ARB Bumper........$1,137.14
Smittybilt Winch...$666.62
7in LED Lights......$42.39
Light Harness.......$15.36
D-hooks/shackles..$20.99
Welder Cost..........$220.00
Helpers Cost.........$125.00
Total................$2,227.50

Here are some of the resources I used to make sure I didn't mess things up too terribly:
https://www.youtube.com/c/TimmyTheToolman
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4joiDtQf3M&list=PLbigVHbnEpn4-ld_ICAk4s3HW7TBCje_A&index=2&t=222s
ARB Bumper: End Cap Mod vs. Welding Brackets
ARB Bumper Bull Bar p/n 3423020
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuRi4vEGWsc&t=673s

Here are images if you’re on mobile
https://photos.app.goo.gl/hc9hRsTvyGJgPsvN6

 

[scshack]

Here are the same photos since they are not showing up on mobile devices.

 

[T4topher]

Here are some of the resources I used to make sure I didn't mess things up too terribly:
Timmy The Toolman - YouTube
Shrockworks Gen 3 4Runner Front Bumper Install - YouTube
ARB Bumper: End Cap Mod vs. Welding Brackets
ARB Bumper Bull Bar p/n 3423020
Winch install in the ARB bumper on my 3rd Gen 4Runner - YouTube

Looked through the links you posted and I really like the idea of putting a tube in the frame where the through bolt goes. I think I’m going to do that for my addicted offroad bumper. Also thinking of adding supports that attach to the side wings where the body mount is. Thanks for posting, looks good!

 

[scshack]

Tbh I think having an L bracket as the end cap mod and 2 welded nuts with bolts from the front and a single side would be the most ideal (and also from top through the bottom with provided bolts and nuts). I’m not sure if anyone has done this, but this would be your best winching anchor ideal points. Like above and beyond strong.

However, the welder assured me, the work he did was plenty enough to winch and hold my bumper up.

 

[5thGenHunter]

Excellent writeup! I miss my Gen 3. How much weight over the stock bumper does this one add?

 

[scshack]

Excellent writeup! I miss my Gen 3. How much weight over the stock bumper does this one add?

Hmm I’m not sure exactly, but I think the winch + bumper is around 200-225#. Shipping details list the bumper at 150# and the winch at 99#. However, I didn’t use all the parts for the bumper, but I did add lights and D-shackles. I imagine everything installed, it adds at least 150# over the stock bumper. So quite a bit..

 

[phattyduck]

Tbh I think having an L bracket as the end cap mod and 2 welded nuts with bolts from the front and a single side would be the most ideal (and also from top through the bottom with provided bolts and nuts). I’m not sure if anyone has done this, but this would be your best winching anchor ideal points. Like above and beyond strong.

However, the welder assured me, the work he did was plenty enough to winch and hold my bumper up.

Hard to tell, but that's (basically) how Shrockworks does it. The frame cap is L shaped and runs back to the hole on the side so you can plug weld that location.

The bumper bracket bolts on with the front bolt, the two tow hook bolts, a vertical through-bolt at the front *and* the bracket extends back on the inside of the frame behind the OEM crush points and has another bolt location back there. Visible here to the right of the body mount (extra cap not welded in yet):

-Charlie

 

[scshack]

[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] thanks for adding this information. So using an L bracket would allow you to "plug weld" the hole as well as add another anchor point way back behind the toe hooks. This L bracket piece needs to be extremely long then

 

[phattyduck]

[MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] thanks for adding this information. So using an L bracket would allow you to "plug weld" the hole as well as add another anchor point way back behind the toe hooks. This L bracket piece needs to be extremely long then

No, the L-shaped front frame cap is just for extra strength at the front of the frame. The bar that runs back along the frame is separate, and part of the bumper brackets on a different bumper. Sorry for the confusion.

-Charlie