YodaPride's T4R Build

Dude...that looks amazing so far even without any lights mounted. You should consider making these- would give Gobi/Drabbits a run for their money. I'd be the first on that list.

Thanks a lot! I got the 40" light bar mounted and on the way to Maine it filled up with condensation. Bulldog said that they would repair it under warranty so, I had to take it back off. I will get some pics up as soon as I get all of the lights up there.

I have thought about making a few. Although, I would like to build a good front bumper first. The big hold up for me is going to be my new living arrangements in Maine. I HAVE NO WORKSHOP!!! :cry2::mad::censored::doh::ybrick::cry::redbrick:

...Oh well, I guess that I will just have to focus on adventures for now.

If I do build one or two extra I will put you in as first dibs.
 
I thought that I would share some more details on the roof rack build...
I started this thing in Texas, made huge progress in Virginia and am finalizing it in Maine. I am more than excited to just get it done!!






Now that I have lost my garage, I am reduced to only have the 4R power outlet as my only power source. It was good enough to run my soldering iron so that I could finish the harness wiring.




Pined up the 2 bussmanns. I will have to fab up some mounts when I have access to my tools and a garage.










And...Voila! Power to all the switches, lights and accessories.

Right and left spot lights.



I want to thank [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] for his detailed info and [MENTION=48991]sp8ball[/MENTION] for his write up(Unless he stole the idea...:thumb3:) for the rear view camera mod! Thank you, thank you, thank you! One of the most annoying things about trying to hook up my trailer was when you would have to inch forward to re-position and the damn view would go away?!?! When it would return, you would be far as *&#%! away from where you thought you would be. ...NO MORE




I got it setup so that when you push the 'rear lights' switch, the rear camera, back up lights and rear spot lights come on all at once.
 
Last edited:
I got a few questions about the bussmann fuse box install so, I thought that I would share some details in my build thread

Here are some of the tools that I used to pin it up.





In this pic below you can see the different types of terminals required. You have the 2 tang female terminals for the male connector in the upper right, the tang male terminal for the female connector in the lower right, and the tangless female terminal for the bussmann fuse pannel on the left.





Below are the tanged and tangless difference. They are not interchangeable.




And again below are the different sizes for various gage wire.




Wire fitment and crimping




And finally, how you remove the terminals from the connector.




I opted to just pin up the fuse panel directly without a connector. Mainly to limit the amount of connections in the circuit. With it set up this way, if I ever wanted to remove the wiring and fuse box I would have to de-pin the entire box which is not to difficult...you just need to label where all the wires go if you want to put it back.


And voila, a pinned out bussmann!

 
Last edited:
Any chance you'll consider making those bussman mounting plates anytime soon?

Not until I move to a place with a garage. 95% of my tools are still in VA and working on the 4R (especially custom stuff) in an apartment parking lot f'in sucks! The zip ties will have to hold until mid next year:pray:
 
I got a few questions about the bussmann fuse box install so, I thought that I would share some details in my build thread

[MENTION=109515]YodaPride[/MENTION], got a second for some questions, well one specific question:

I tried installing the Air On Board switches for my RIGID lights, which have 3 wires, positive/negative/ground. The stock switches use the ground to power the internal LED when activated.

The AOB switches however have 4 wires. And while I was able to get the switches to turn the Rigids on, when I wired the ground up it made the internal switch LED stay on ALL THE TIME, even when the car is off.

Am I missing something? Do I need to splice the internal LED's cable into the positive or negative so that it only lights up when activated? What am I missing?
 
[MENTION=109515]YodaPride[/MENTION], got a second for some questions, well one specific question:

I tried installing the Air On Board switches for my RIGID lights, which have 3 wires, positive/negative/ground. The stock switches use the ground to power the internal LED when activated.

The AOB switches however have 4 wires. And while I was able to get the switches to turn the Rigids on, when I wired the ground up it made the internal switch LED stay on ALL THE TIME, even when the car is off.

Am I missing something? Do I need to splice the internal LED's cable into the positive or negative so that it only lights up when activated? What am I missing?

This is what I had posted earlier...



The problem with tying into the grey wire here is that the switches will illuminate with the Ignition ON. That is to say that the switches will be lit even with the lights turned off. They still dim just are on all the time.

I actually like it this way. The switch lights turn on with the ignition and turn off about 20 seconds after the ignition is switched off. There are ways to get it to operate the way you described but, I have not researched that in detail.
 
Wiring Bussmann & AOB Switches

I just wired up the Bussmann and AOB switches over the holiday weekend. Still have some cleanup to do, but all of the relays are working, including the dimmer function. Thanks for the info!

My plan was to complete the wiring for 5 switches since the Bussmann has 5 relays and my '15 SR5P has 5 open switch knockouts. I only have an ARB compressor hooked up at the moment, but figured this would make future accessories easy to wire in without having to open the console every time.

I had to move 1 switch to the right of the steering column (formerly reserved for the "party mode" switch) since I wanted all 5 AOB switches on the left column switch panel. The problem is, the factory harness isn't long enough to reach to the right column. So I decided to relocate the wiper heater switch since it had a dimmer function. Since I had to extend 1 switch harness AND find a way to tap into the dimmer circuit, it may as well be the wiper heater switch. In for a penny, in for a pound!

I've included a few pictures from my install. I sketched out a quick wiring diagram to keep my head straight. Hope it helps.

Great build and write-ups. I am really thankful for you you guys who take the time to snap photos and detail out your mods. It is super helpful.

[MENTION=109515]YodaPride[/MENTION], got a second for some questions, well one specific question:

I tried installing the Air On Board switches for my RIGID lights, which have 3 wires, positive/negative/ground. The stock switches use the ground to power the internal LED when activated.

The AOB switches however have 4 wires. And while I was able to get the switches to turn the Rigids on, when I wired the ground up it made the internal switch LED stay on ALL THE TIME, even when the car is off.

Am I missing something? Do I need to splice the internal LED's cable into the positive or negative so that it only lights up when activated? What am I missing?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1647.jpg
    IMG_1647.jpg
    137.1 KB · Views: 1,053
  • IMG_1649.jpg
    IMG_1649.jpg
    134.3 KB · Views: 1,070
  • IMG_1646.jpg
    IMG_1646.jpg
    125.9 KB · Views: 1,097
  • IMG_1650.jpg
    IMG_1650.jpg
    141.3 KB · Views: 1,094
I went to Northern Maine to spot moose over the weekend. Saw two running off into the woods that evaded camera and GoPro.

I get to frequently use all of my rack mounted lights often up here in Maine. It is hard to think about life in the dark back woods without them now! They do rock. :rockon:











... And yep, I get deep into the snow covered logging roads on the worn out street tires that came with the 4R. I use the off-road settings to compensate.
 
Last edited:
Love your thread and 4Runner. I'm genuinely contemplating trading my wrx in for one. I'm in Maine, too, and i take my car on the logging roads and upta camp but I can't even imagine how fun the t4r would be on them.
 
Love your thread and 4Runner. I'm genuinely contemplating trading my wrx in for one. I'm in Maine, too, and i take my car on the logging roads and upta camp but I can't even imagine how fun the t4r would be on them.

Thanks! Here are a couple of videos to give you an idea. I go up to a friends camp often and play around on the logging roads up there. I am sure a WRX would be no slouch on them.

Winter Exploring...Nothing to serious, as I still have the original street tires on this thing.

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/5udwR0e3g28" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Summer Trail Riding

<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/bQf0Il0l3RU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Last edited:
Dude you got skills! Have a couple questions...was that Duplicolor truck liner sprayed on that sweet rack or did you roll it? And secondly, can you do a little write up on the transmission cooler? Which one? How did you plumb it? Mounting details? If you don't have time I understand but it would be a big help. Thanks.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,313
Messages
3,554,090
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top