I had soaked them in PB Blaster for a couple of days. I will see if I can get some heat in there. I will make some kind of a heat shield to protect the axle boot. I only have a propane torch for heat so i will be there a while. Hate when this happens when doing preventive maintenance. It's like you bring this pain on yourself.
You should replace your ball joints...
- Thread starter sprockmember
- Start date
About to pull the trigger on LBJs for my 2002 T4R with 160k on it. Just to be safe.
Is replacing the outer tie rod and upper ball joints recommended at the same time? Are there any documented failures on these components? Going to the install myself and while the LBJs don't seem to bad I hear the UBJs are significantly harder. Would hate to turn a 1hr job into a 6hr job for no reason.
Is replacing the outer tie rod and upper ball joints recommended at the same time? Are there any documented failures on these components? Going to the install myself and while the LBJs don't seem to bad I hear the UBJs are significantly harder. Would hate to turn a 1hr job into a 6hr job for no reason.
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While you r in there do the ubj's and tie rod ends, that's what I just did .
I'd recommend using OEM parts . I'd had some moog lbj's installed last year
while doing an interim front suspension build ( 99 coils and bilsteins ) .
Pulled the whole front suspension apart a few weeks ago to do bushings , Tundra 6112's
and oem upper and lower bj's and the moog lbj's looked worse then the original oem
lowers with 200 k , rubbers worn out etc. That's the last moog crap I'll put on my truck !
Max
I'd recommend using OEM parts . I'd had some moog lbj's installed last year
while doing an interim front suspension build ( 99 coils and bilsteins ) .
Pulled the whole front suspension apart a few weeks ago to do bushings , Tundra 6112's
and oem upper and lower bj's and the moog lbj's looked worse then the original oem
lowers with 200 k , rubbers worn out etc. That's the last moog crap I'll put on my truck !
Max
tcbaklash
New member
Thanks bud!
OK I just spent some quality time with my truck in the rain. Used a propane torch with map gas to get the other 3 bolts out. This works but takes a long time to get the area hot enough. Used an old license plate cut up to protect the axle boot from the heat. Removed the ball joint and then applied more heat, PB Blaster and some candle wax to get the broken off bolt out of the knuckle. Now I need to get some bolts at the hardware store tomorrow and install the joint. The have 10.9 flange bolts in stock. I just hope they have 8 of them. Now if I didn't damage the wheel bearing seals with the heat I'll be happy. Then I will move on and do the right side. Oh the fun of living in New England where the salt the crap out of the roads.
brachypelma
New member
Anyone have any good recommendations from where to buy OEM LBJs?
mtbtim
Elite Member
Camelback Toyota
I can't remember if it's buried in this thread somewhere or not, but is there a visual inspection I can do or a noise I should be listening for that would give me some warning? My front end has developed a slight clunk noise/feeling when I hit small bumps or even speed bumps. I have no idea if the PO did them, so I just plan to address it in the coming weeks. But, if it's something I can crawl under the rig, look at and see if I should even be driving right now would be nice. I have a feeling the clunk is unrelated to my LBJs, but figured I'd ask!
Thanks
Thanks
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
Good that you guys are now aware of Toyota's poor design that puts the lower ball-joint under stress (pulling force, versus compression on earlier and later gens) on the 3rd gen. I also think Toyota failed to effectively communicate the above and how bad the consequences could be. evidenced by many owners who are not aware of the potentially fatal issue.
This "official" thread should have inspection procedure.
My friend's trucks LBJ just failed without warning. We had inspected it a couple of months earlier. There was play on the stud because cotter pin was missing and nut had come loosened. However, there was no vertical nor sideways play.
However, you could get lucky and see symptoms before it happens.
This "official" thread should have inspection procedure.
My friend's trucks LBJ just failed without warning. We had inspected it a couple of months earlier. There was play on the stud because cotter pin was missing and nut had come loosened. However, there was no vertical nor sideways play.
However, you could get lucky and see symptoms before it happens.
Mark_BC
Senior Member
Quick answer: no.
When I bought mine it had a slight front clunk going over speed bumps that went away after I replaced the LBJ's.
Hey, first post but been here absorbing knowledge since I started looking for a used runner. I've always driven Volvo 240s but I'm quickly becoming a certified Toyota nerd.
I bought an '01 SR5 with 159k a couple months ago and just had the UBJ/LBJ/OTRE's (OEM) replaced by a local mechanic as I'm moving from NY to TX at the end of the month. For reference I am in Queens, NY and the guy who I have used before (radiator fiasco but luckily not full-fledged milkshake) quoted me $300 up front which I thought was high until I went back 8 hours later and he had just finished. I probably could have done the job myself but I'm busy with work and honestly if it took my guy that long it would have taken me a week as a relative layman without a press. (UBJs are a PITA) I feel like I came out pretty good on the deal. Still need an alignment but the steering and front suspension is now noticeably less clunky and feels much tighter. Also if you order off eBay make sure it's not shipping from Japan. I didn't pay attention to that and it took about a month to get them. If I had to do it again I'd just order from Camelback. Now to do brakes...
I bought an '01 SR5 with 159k a couple months ago and just had the UBJ/LBJ/OTRE's (OEM) replaced by a local mechanic as I'm moving from NY to TX at the end of the month. For reference I am in Queens, NY and the guy who I have used before (radiator fiasco but luckily not full-fledged milkshake) quoted me $300 up front which I thought was high until I went back 8 hours later and he had just finished. I probably could have done the job myself but I'm busy with work and honestly if it took my guy that long it would have taken me a week as a relative layman without a press. (UBJs are a PITA) I feel like I came out pretty good on the deal. Still need an alignment but the steering and front suspension is now noticeably less clunky and feels much tighter. Also if you order off eBay make sure it's not shipping from Japan. I didn't pay attention to that and it took about a month to get them. If I had to do it again I'd just order from Camelback. Now to do brakes...
marcus clarkus
New member
You could pull on it with a fish scale, although I would guess only a few models of fish scales would actually go up to that weight.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
I have performed this test procedure for years on my 96 4x4 Rnr. Used a floor jack to apply upward force with jack pushing up on brake rotor. Doing it this way loads the suspension as if setting on ground in normal operating conditions.
Noticed some grease around my passenger side LBJ boot but no tears on the boot itself. Checked for play and it looks like there is a very small amount. Not going to take a chance so I'm parking the truck while I wait for the new LBJs to come in. This is weird because I replaced these 5 years, 70,000kms ago (genuine Toyota part) which seems like a short time to have experienced a failure considering some people are still on their OEM 20 year old joints.
Quantumkiwi
New member
Last week I started having a severe intermittent vibration while going down the highway. Felt almost like driving on a washboarded dirt road. It only lasted about 30sec and then went away for about 5 min.
Could my LBJ possibly be failing? I have about 180k on my truck and I don't know if they have ever been replaced. I also have a rattle in my steering rack when going over rocks and a general looseness, could it be my rack instead?
Could my LBJ possibly be failing? I have about 180k on my truck and I don't know if they have ever been replaced. I also have a rattle in my steering rack when going over rocks and a general looseness, could it be my rack instead?
spartacus
Senior Member
Definately replace the lbj's for sure with oem lbj's after 180k the rack bushings with urethane [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] has a good videos for both lbj's and rack and pinion bushing. this might or might not resolve your vibrations which can be caused by tires, alignment, inner outer tie rod ends, lower control arm bushings bad, front wheel bearings etc
edit; grease the drive shaft and joints
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