zacattack20's Matte Blue ‘98 to '02 Sport Edition - Not the normal build thread
- Thread starter zacattack20
- Start date
zacattack20
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Well for me it fixed the grinding noise at full lock. I have addco sway bars so I was using those end links and they were rather crappy and a large base. So I just replaced them with moog end links and the base of them is smaller, where the tie rod was making contact. I'm not able to compare them to the stock end links of the 4runner.
Kung
New member
Hrm...I wonder if it's worth a try, though. It sounds to me like, notwithstanding the Addco sway bar, it's worth doing just to see. I would assume the front end links aren't known to fail that much.
If nothing else, thanks for letting others know about this - I too have the grinding noise @ full lock. Not a huge deal, but if I can eliminate it, it would be nice.
zacattack20
New member
Hrm...I wonder if it's worth a try, though. It sounds to me like, notwithstanding the Addco sway bar, it's worth doing just to see. I would assume the front end links aren't known to fail that much.
If nothing else, thanks for letting others know about this - I too have the grinding noise @ full lock. Not a huge deal, but if I can eliminate it, it would be nice.
At least end link failure wouldn't cause your wheel to rip off like a ball joint so I'm willing to take the risk. I paid around $35 for the two front links from rockauto. It was really nice to get rid of the noise, I found it embarrassing. Haha. Have you noticed where yours are making contact? I believe I read some people had theirs hitting against the link mount of the truck and they ground down that a little bit and it worked.
zacattack20
New member
Thank you.
zacattack20
New member
Since adding the supercharger and not having the 7th injector yet I wanted to make sure that the stock fuel system is working properly so I removed my injectors and sent them to WitchHunter Performance. It would have been better to do before installing the supercharger because now I had to do the work twice but it went pretty quick.
I took out the injectors on Tuesday October 22 and sent them out on the 23rd and they received them on Friday the 25th. He called me on Monday the 28th saying two of them were out of range of resistance and would only charge me for the flow test and not for the cleaning on those at $10 each. He sent them out the next day on the 29th and I got them on the 31st, so it was about a week turnaround because of the weekend. It was a total of $118 for flow test and cleaning of 4 injectors at $22 each, flow test for 2 injectors at $10 each, and return shipping of $10.
Printout of injector tests. If you label each injector with what cylinder it was when you send them out then they will keep them the same on the report.
Since two were out of range on the resistance, I purchased two new OEM injectors at $140 each. The 96-98 have older style injectors which are more expensive, the 99 and up are only $110 each.
Two new injectors
The 96-98 part number is 23209-62030
Its a silver injector
The 99-02 part number is 23209-62040
Its a brown injector
Cleaned injector vs new injector
Injectors installed
Took around an hour to get to the injectors and remove them and then around an hour to put everything back together.
I took out the injectors on Tuesday October 22 and sent them out on the 23rd and they received them on Friday the 25th. He called me on Monday the 28th saying two of them were out of range of resistance and would only charge me for the flow test and not for the cleaning on those at $10 each. He sent them out the next day on the 29th and I got them on the 31st, so it was about a week turnaround because of the weekend. It was a total of $118 for flow test and cleaning of 4 injectors at $22 each, flow test for 2 injectors at $10 each, and return shipping of $10.
Printout of injector tests. If you label each injector with what cylinder it was when you send them out then they will keep them the same on the report.
Since two were out of range on the resistance, I purchased two new OEM injectors at $140 each. The 96-98 have older style injectors which are more expensive, the 99 and up are only $110 each.
Two new injectors
The 96-98 part number is 23209-62030
Its a silver injector
The 99-02 part number is 23209-62040
Its a brown injector
Cleaned injector vs new injector
Injectors installed
Took around an hour to get to the injectors and remove them and then around an hour to put everything back together.
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zacattack20
New member
Half got a project done. I had some LED's laying around and decided I wanted some lighted window switches. The LED's were these surface mount ones from oznium.
Tiny Prewired Super Bright Surface Mount LEDs - 12V DIY Plug and Play SMT LED
I only had a couple so I was only able to get the passengers side done and I will have to order some more.
I bought some light diffuser plastic sheets from inventables.com for like $20 and got 12 letter sized sheets, way more than I needed for this project but maybe I can use it for something else later.
World's Easiest CNC System for Machining | Inventables
It would have been easy if I was able to pop off the top of the switch but I didn't want to chance breaking it. I drilled out the oval indent shape in the switch and then used to a round file to sand it smooth. I cut a little piece of the light diffuser film and put it through the bottom of the switch and then used a little epoxy on the sides to keep it in. I then epoxied the LED to one side of the switch and ran the wires down.
I then wired the power to the switched power wire RED/BLUE and the ground to the BLACK/RED wire. This way when ever the car is turned on then they will light up.
Passenger Rear
Passenger Front
They look great during the day, at night they are a little bright. I might need to add some more layers of the light diffuser film, but I'll probably end up getting used to it before I get around to fixing them. The picture makes it look way brighter than it actually is though.
Tiny Prewired Super Bright Surface Mount LEDs - 12V DIY Plug and Play SMT LED
I only had a couple so I was only able to get the passengers side done and I will have to order some more.
I bought some light diffuser plastic sheets from inventables.com for like $20 and got 12 letter sized sheets, way more than I needed for this project but maybe I can use it for something else later.
World's Easiest CNC System for Machining | Inventables
It would have been easy if I was able to pop off the top of the switch but I didn't want to chance breaking it. I drilled out the oval indent shape in the switch and then used to a round file to sand it smooth. I cut a little piece of the light diffuser film and put it through the bottom of the switch and then used a little epoxy on the sides to keep it in. I then epoxied the LED to one side of the switch and ran the wires down.
I then wired the power to the switched power wire RED/BLUE and the ground to the BLACK/RED wire. This way when ever the car is turned on then they will light up.
Passenger Rear
Passenger Front
They look great during the day, at night they are a little bright. I might need to add some more layers of the light diffuser film, but I'll probably end up getting used to it before I get around to fixing them. The picture makes it look way brighter than it actually is though.
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zacattack20
New member
I picked up some tore up power seats off of craigslist for $20. I don't know if the guy had a dog and let him chew at them but that's what it looked like. They were dirty and disgusting and all broken. I figured for $20 I could try to restore them since he said all the motors worked and luckily they did.
They turned out to be a little worse than they looked. I ended up buying $75 worth of seat parts off of a part out from robb1887. I needed the two harness connectors to plug into the seats, the lumbar switch, the 4 switch knobs, a little rod that went between the motor and the seat and then I needed a whole switch assembly because the drivers side had some broken wires and broken mounts and also the passengers side had a broken piece of the switch that I was able to take from the old broken drivers side one.
And then also this trim piece mount on the drivers side was broken off so I had to epoxy that back on.
And then on both seats the motor on the bottom of the picture was broken so I had to epoxy those back together as well.
Then I had to paint all the trim pieces black.
Since like everyone else's lumbar switch seems to break, this one was too which was ok because I wanted to put it in the side of the trim piece.
The back cushions were in decent shape so I just swapped my original cloth bottom cushions on to the seats. I ended up getting a leather seat bottom cushion for $20 from Kanger so I used that one and one of my cloth cushions.
I pulled back the stock leather and put seat heaters and seat coolers. Looking at the seat coolers, I'm not expecting much because they are these tiny little fans. One idea I have to make them better is to tap into the A/C vents and run a hose up into the seats to behind the fans but I'll see how these work first. I put them on the seat backs and bottoms but only have pictures of the backs.
I picked these up from Auto aftermarket carbon fiber seat heater,seat cooling system
Their prices have gone up since I bought them, I think I paid like $100 per seat for the heaters and fans.
This is where I mounted the switches.
I have yet to put in the drivers side switches or wire either seat up yet so I don't know how well they work.
The new seats have a front bar as opposed to my old seats so I was able to take that bracket off for the foot well LED's and put the LED strip right on the front.
The seat covers are coverking leatherette custom fit seat covers. I found the cheapest place to get them was autoanything and use a coupon code. They were around $200 for just the front seats. The back seats have some cheap $40 ebay ones because I have two car seats back there and don't want to waste money on those getting messed up from the impressions of the car seats.
I've had the seat covers on for a couple months now on my old seats and they aren't great. They are really good but not great. They are seat covers so you cant expect them to be perfect but two things I don't like are the headrests and the front of the bottom cushion. You can see in the LED strip picture that they are loose in the front, which fortunately isn't even noticeable when you get the seats in. The other thing is the headrest holes. I don't have a picture of them but they aren't really custom made there, its just like a weird sown open strip. But its not noticeable if you leave your headrest all the way down which I always do.
Installed and working.
They turned out to be a little worse than they looked. I ended up buying $75 worth of seat parts off of a part out from robb1887. I needed the two harness connectors to plug into the seats, the lumbar switch, the 4 switch knobs, a little rod that went between the motor and the seat and then I needed a whole switch assembly because the drivers side had some broken wires and broken mounts and also the passengers side had a broken piece of the switch that I was able to take from the old broken drivers side one.
And then also this trim piece mount on the drivers side was broken off so I had to epoxy that back on.
And then on both seats the motor on the bottom of the picture was broken so I had to epoxy those back together as well.
Then I had to paint all the trim pieces black.
Since like everyone else's lumbar switch seems to break, this one was too which was ok because I wanted to put it in the side of the trim piece.
The back cushions were in decent shape so I just swapped my original cloth bottom cushions on to the seats. I ended up getting a leather seat bottom cushion for $20 from Kanger so I used that one and one of my cloth cushions.
I pulled back the stock leather and put seat heaters and seat coolers. Looking at the seat coolers, I'm not expecting much because they are these tiny little fans. One idea I have to make them better is to tap into the A/C vents and run a hose up into the seats to behind the fans but I'll see how these work first. I put them on the seat backs and bottoms but only have pictures of the backs.
I picked these up from Auto aftermarket carbon fiber seat heater,seat cooling system
Their prices have gone up since I bought them, I think I paid like $100 per seat for the heaters and fans.
This is where I mounted the switches.
I have yet to put in the drivers side switches or wire either seat up yet so I don't know how well they work.
The new seats have a front bar as opposed to my old seats so I was able to take that bracket off for the foot well LED's and put the LED strip right on the front.
The seat covers are coverking leatherette custom fit seat covers. I found the cheapest place to get them was autoanything and use a coupon code. They were around $200 for just the front seats. The back seats have some cheap $40 ebay ones because I have two car seats back there and don't want to waste money on those getting messed up from the impressions of the car seats.
I've had the seat covers on for a couple months now on my old seats and they aren't great. They are really good but not great. They are seat covers so you cant expect them to be perfect but two things I don't like are the headrests and the front of the bottom cushion. You can see in the LED strip picture that they are loose in the front, which fortunately isn't even noticeable when you get the seats in. The other thing is the headrest holes. I don't have a picture of them but they aren't really custom made there, its just like a weird sown open strip. But its not noticeable if you leave your headrest all the way down which I always do.
Installed and working.
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zacattack20
New member
Added a homelink.
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zacattack20
New member
Well on Thanksgiving I go to start my truck and wouldn't start. Luckily one of my neighbors was getting home at the time and asked if I needed a jump. So jumped it and and let it run for 15 minutes and then drove for 10 minutes to where I was going. Got there, shut it off and tried to see if it would start back up and nope. Since I didn't have any jumper cables, I had to go buy some and I was surprised but Autozone was open on Thanksgiving.
Jumped it again and took it home to get my wife's car and left my truck running because I was going to take it to my parents to leave the battery to charge. When I came back out of my place like ten minutes later, the engine was running but the radio had shut off, the lights were dimming, the instrument cluster wasn't working. So my alternator wasn't charging my battery.
Took it to my parents and let it slow charge the battery for the rest of the night. Checked it that night and was at 12.4 volts. Came back today and checked the battery again and was over 12 volts and the truck started right up but as I let it run, I was checking the battery with a multimeter and the voltage kept dropping. So I was pretty positive it was the alternator but I still took it off and took it to Autozone so they could check it for free and as I figured it failed.
Since my alternator crapped out I figured I might as well do the CS-144 upgrade. I would love to get one of the nice high output alternators for $400 but I can't bring my self to pay that much for an alternator. So I bought the Gold version from Autozone which is all brand new parts and lifetime warranty. The price online is $159.99+$10 core. Right now they have 20% off over $100 and free shipping over $75 so final total was $149.03. Then I purchased the adapter for the wiring harness for $38. Ill post some pictures once I get it and install it.
Jumped it again and took it home to get my wife's car and left my truck running because I was going to take it to my parents to leave the battery to charge. When I came back out of my place like ten minutes later, the engine was running but the radio had shut off, the lights were dimming, the instrument cluster wasn't working. So my alternator wasn't charging my battery.
Took it to my parents and let it slow charge the battery for the rest of the night. Checked it that night and was at 12.4 volts. Came back today and checked the battery again and was over 12 volts and the truck started right up but as I let it run, I was checking the battery with a multimeter and the voltage kept dropping. So I was pretty positive it was the alternator but I still took it off and took it to Autozone so they could check it for free and as I figured it failed.
Since my alternator crapped out I figured I might as well do the CS-144 upgrade. I would love to get one of the nice high output alternators for $400 but I can't bring my self to pay that much for an alternator. So I bought the Gold version from Autozone which is all brand new parts and lifetime warranty. The price online is $159.99+$10 core. Right now they have 20% off over $100 and free shipping over $75 so final total was $149.03. Then I purchased the adapter for the wiring harness for $38. Ill post some pictures once I get it and install it.
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zacattack20
New member
Dammit.
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Millerad1651
New member
Interested to see the results...that's the same setup I had picked out, just have to wait to get it! I picked different shrouds, but everything else in the same.
zacattack20
New member
Yeah I've always planned on getting the FX-R kit and was still planning on it until 5 minutes before I bought this one but I decided that I didn't want to mess with the work it takes for the FX-R kit and wanted something easier.
Millerad1651
New member
What are the extra LED strips for? I plan on the white Halos as well, that's not them is it?
zacattack20
New member
No those are for something else I have planned. Its a secret. Haha.
zacattack20
New member
Hey buddy! just read through your build, i gotta say im a huge fan. i really like the way you mod, so classy haha. you 4runner must be so nice to drive. im stealing some of your ideas
Thank you. I like to keep it classy. I like to make it look like it would have come from the factory that way.
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