ZachAttack
New member
Think I can make it home 5 miles?
ZachAttack's Build Thread - 2004 Sport Edition
- Thread starter ZachAttack
- Start date
SGTfencekutter
New member
I wouldn't go off road and go slow over bumps. You don't want that c-clip to come loose.
Once you fix it, expect your front lift to be reduced quite a bit
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ZachAttack
New member
Yeah, I feel like a complete idiot. Especially since all signs pointed to something being wrong. Anyway, all fixed now, with no death or destruction.
Thanks to T4R.org, I live to tell the story!
Oh, and the alignment is screwed, of course, but the guy mentioned I had worn out lower control arm bushings. I'll need another alignment after hise anyway. Anyone know how to change those? They quoted me $1100. Ha, I have t4r.org!
Thanks to T4R.org, I live to tell the story!
Oh, and the alignment is screwed, of course, but the guy mentioned I had worn out lower control arm bushings. I'll need another alignment after hise anyway. Anyone know how to change those? They quoted me $1100. Ha, I have t4r.org!
B
BReardon21
Guest
Any updated pics of height after correcting the shocks?
ZachAttack
New member
I'll try to snap a pic today, but all 4 corners are now within 1/4" of 22" from wheel center to wheel well.
Wuhoo!
Wuhoo!
SGTfencekutter
New member
Happy to hear nothing bad happened....now I can sleep better at night!
ZachAttack
New member
Slightly backlit, but I'm very happy with the end result.
B
BReardon21
Guest
Looks nice and level man, did you stay at 0.85? Can't wait to see more pics!!!
ZachAttack
New member
Here's the latest, and yes, I left it at 0.85".
It looks a little reverse raked, but it's not, just my back tires sitting in the dip at the end of my driveway.
It looks a little reverse raked, but it's not, just my back tires sitting in the dip at the end of my driveway.
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BReardon21
Guest
very nice! how does it ride? Just waiting on shipping and I am doing the same!
ZachAttack
New member
The ride is far improved. Much less brake dive, and way more stable around the corners. Highly recommended.
I do have some rubbing just behind the front bumper, but I'm going to follow all the other posters here and move the wheel well liner forward an inch or so. That should do it.
Next up will be the lower control arm bushings. Since they came in a kit (Energy Suspension), I'll do the upper control arm bushings too.
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Much improved look, I've wanted to do the FJ springs and 5100's for a long time, problem is that I park underground and can't go above 6 foot tall. Can you tell me what the height difference is now that you didn't gain 4"
ZachAttack
New member
Bfg at 265/70r17
I'll try to get a measurement tonight.
For now, I have an updated pic with the new tires.
I'll try to get a measurement tonight.
For now, I have an updated pic with the new tires.
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ZachAttack
New member
I did en eyeball measurement (held a tape measure on the ground, then looked across the tape measure, and saw where the two roof rack bars lined up.
I got 73.5", but the crossmembers might be a half inch taller.
Keep in mind, the urban runner bars are a little taller than the stock ones, but you might be cutting it close in the garage.
Sorry for the bad news.
ZachAttack
New member
Bfg at 265/70r17 tire pressure.
Well, after installing these a few days ago, I was seeing a pretty big reduction in fuel economy. (from the lie-o-meter ~16.5 to down around ~14.3). The truck felt a lot heavier and sluggish.
Hmm.
I asked Discount Tire when they were installing the tires what the recommended tire pressure was, and they said to stick with the door jamb numbers. (32 psi).
I should have realized that was out of CYA instead of actual knowledge. After reading up online, I decided to fill them up to 45psi and see how they did.
For the drive to work this morning, they seemed much better, both in handling and in fuel economy (17.5 on the lie-o-meter, but the first part of my trip is on the highway, so I'm sure it will settle down a little).
After a few days, I'll see if I'm wearing the center of the tire too much and report back.
Well, after installing these a few days ago, I was seeing a pretty big reduction in fuel economy. (from the lie-o-meter ~16.5 to down around ~14.3). The truck felt a lot heavier and sluggish.
Hmm.
I asked Discount Tire when they were installing the tires what the recommended tire pressure was, and they said to stick with the door jamb numbers. (32 psi).
I should have realized that was out of CYA instead of actual knowledge. After reading up online, I decided to fill them up to 45psi and see how they did.
For the drive to work this morning, they seemed much better, both in handling and in fuel economy (17.5 on the lie-o-meter, but the first part of my trip is on the highway, so I'm sure it will settle down a little).
After a few days, I'll see if I'm wearing the center of the tire too much and report back.
97BlackAckCL
Elite Member
Thanks for the info, I'm actually planning to move to a taller garage, so problem averted :nicethread:
ZachAttack
New member
Replaced Front LCA Bushings
So a few weeks ago when I put my new springs, shocks, and BFG ATs on, the alignment shop (yes, the stealership was having a discount, so I took it there) told me my LCA bushings were shot. $1100 to fix them. Really?
Nope, I'm going to do them myself. I have to admit, I was a little afraid to take it on, partly because everyone on here (well, the 3rd gen forums...not many 4th gen people said they did it) sounded a little hesitant, and second, there was much to lose (not being able to immediately put the vehicle back together again).
Anyway, I did some research and settled on the Energy Suspension bushings. (8.3128 Front Control Arm Bushings).
Here's what comes in the kit:
Everyone seems to love Poly bushings, and from all the reviews, no residual noise, and everyone seems to claim that the ride is better. Skeptical, but let's see how it goes.
Anyway, I finally had some time blocked off my my crazy busy schedule to try it, so here goes.
I followed the instructions to a "t". They can be found here: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17535.pdf.
First off, let's get these beautiful tires off.
Here are my current control arms and bushings.
Here's my "mark." (Really honey? You had ORANGE nail polish? Yikes.)
After pulling the LCA off:
A closeup:
I used these:
And ended up with this:
Do not remove the factory metal shells from the lower control arms,
they must be reused. The inner metal sleeves and washers on the
lower control arm must be reused. To remove the old rubber from
the factory shells and inner sleeves, apply light heat evenly around
the outside of the control arm outer metal shell, just enough to brake
the bond with the rubber. Do the same on the inside of the sleeves
on the lower control arms. When you see light smoke coming from
the sides of the bushing the bond should be broken. At no time
should there be any flames coming from the rubber, if there are any
flames, you need to back off with the heat. Just push the old rubber
and inner metal sleeve out. Let the outer metal shells and sleeves
cool off before cleaning. Use a wire brush to remove any remaining
old rubber. File off any sharp edges that will contact the new
polyurethane bushings.
This was the part I was most nervous about, but it went perfectly. The first time, I kept heating it up gradually, then trying to apply a lot of force. Didn't work. Gradually, I built up the courage to leave the heat on a little longer. (Good smoke coming from the edges of the bushings, then gently prying the bushing out. This took about 10 solid minutes of direct blowtorch to achieve. I used a laser thermometer at one point, and I could hear the rubber separate from the sleeve at about 500°. Don't be shy, and be quick to blow out any rubber that catches on fire.)
Smoking:
After prying (one hint here. See how I was able to apply heat towards the bottom of the picture, but not behind the connecting arm? The bushing stuck in place there, and it was a biatch to pry out later. On the second LCA, I spent some time heating up that arm, and the tube underneath that arm to get the whole bushing to pry out. Saved me a lot of time.)
Once the inner sleeve with bushing is pried out of the outer shell, I made a lengthwise cut with a boxcutter down the bushing. Then, I heated up the inner sleeve from the inside, stuck a screwdriver in the cut I just made, and peeled the bushing from the inner shell. Had I not made the cut, I would have had to slide the hot bushing off the shell. Much easier to peel. Then. Clean that sucker off.
Here's the inside of the outer sleeve, after cleaning with a wire brush.
Well, I repeated this for the other side. It took me about 8 hours. 7.75 hours on Saturday, having gotten frustrated that I couldn't get the last of 4 bushings pressed in all the way, then 15 minutes on Sunday after I realized how to do it (I have a bench vise!!!).
As far as driving, I couldn't believe it was going to make a difference, but it does. The steering feels more positive, and the shimmy I keep attributing to warped rotors (even after replacing them) is GONE.
Highly reccomended upgrade. Just be ready for some effort.
So a few weeks ago when I put my new springs, shocks, and BFG ATs on, the alignment shop (yes, the stealership was having a discount, so I took it there) told me my LCA bushings were shot. $1100 to fix them. Really?
Nope, I'm going to do them myself. I have to admit, I was a little afraid to take it on, partly because everyone on here (well, the 3rd gen forums...not many 4th gen people said they did it) sounded a little hesitant, and second, there was much to lose (not being able to immediately put the vehicle back together again).
Anyway, I did some research and settled on the Energy Suspension bushings. (8.3128 Front Control Arm Bushings).
Here's what comes in the kit:
Everyone seems to love Poly bushings, and from all the reviews, no residual noise, and everyone seems to claim that the ride is better. Skeptical, but let's see how it goes.
Anyway, I finally had some time blocked off my my crazy busy schedule to try it, so here goes.
I followed the instructions to a "t". They can be found here: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Installation_Instructions/Energy_Suspension/17535.pdf.
First off, let's get these beautiful tires off.
Here are my current control arms and bushings.
Here's my "mark." (Really honey? You had ORANGE nail polish? Yikes.)
After pulling the LCA off:
A closeup:
I used these:
And ended up with this:
Do not remove the factory metal shells from the lower control arms,
they must be reused. The inner metal sleeves and washers on the
lower control arm must be reused. To remove the old rubber from
the factory shells and inner sleeves, apply light heat evenly around
the outside of the control arm outer metal shell, just enough to brake
the bond with the rubber. Do the same on the inside of the sleeves
on the lower control arms. When you see light smoke coming from
the sides of the bushing the bond should be broken. At no time
should there be any flames coming from the rubber, if there are any
flames, you need to back off with the heat. Just push the old rubber
and inner metal sleeve out. Let the outer metal shells and sleeves
cool off before cleaning. Use a wire brush to remove any remaining
old rubber. File off any sharp edges that will contact the new
polyurethane bushings.
This was the part I was most nervous about, but it went perfectly. The first time, I kept heating it up gradually, then trying to apply a lot of force. Didn't work. Gradually, I built up the courage to leave the heat on a little longer. (Good smoke coming from the edges of the bushings, then gently prying the bushing out. This took about 10 solid minutes of direct blowtorch to achieve. I used a laser thermometer at one point, and I could hear the rubber separate from the sleeve at about 500°. Don't be shy, and be quick to blow out any rubber that catches on fire.)
Smoking:
After prying (one hint here. See how I was able to apply heat towards the bottom of the picture, but not behind the connecting arm? The bushing stuck in place there, and it was a biatch to pry out later. On the second LCA, I spent some time heating up that arm, and the tube underneath that arm to get the whole bushing to pry out. Saved me a lot of time.)
Once the inner sleeve with bushing is pried out of the outer shell, I made a lengthwise cut with a boxcutter down the bushing. Then, I heated up the inner sleeve from the inside, stuck a screwdriver in the cut I just made, and peeled the bushing from the inner shell. Had I not made the cut, I would have had to slide the hot bushing off the shell. Much easier to peel. Then. Clean that sucker off.
Here's the inside of the outer sleeve, after cleaning with a wire brush.
Well, I repeated this for the other side. It took me about 8 hours. 7.75 hours on Saturday, having gotten frustrated that I couldn't get the last of 4 bushings pressed in all the way, then 15 minutes on Sunday after I realized how to do it (I have a bench vise!!!).
As far as driving, I couldn't believe it was going to make a difference, but it does. The steering feels more positive, and the shimmy I keep attributing to warped rotors (even after replacing them) is GONE.
Highly reccomended upgrade. Just be ready for some effort.
Casper421
New member
I second that!!
