Right on, I plan on ordering those springs as well or I may go with the following:
Wheelers T1/T13 or OME 2883/T13.
Another Bilstein 5100 question
- Thread starter ATLQuicksilver
- Start date
Right on, I plan on ordering those springs as well or I may go with the following:
Wheelers T1/T13 or OME 2883/T13.
Just installed 1.75 front with 1.5 daystar comfort fj spacer rear with stock rear shocks. Great ride! Front is a bit stiff but get rid of most of the nose dive. Installing with KDSS was a bit difficult but manageable. Just use more jacks and ratchet straps. Love the look and ride!
progress4m
Member
After a lot of research, I have completed my lift (long post… sorry)
My goal was:
1) Small lift (on the budget): to have about 2 in the front and 1.5 in the rear (I like the front (stock) rake look and truck levels out with the load in the back anyway), keep the CV angles as straight as possible.
2) Have a ride feel as close as possible to stock, with caster as high it can go with stock UCA.
So here is what I did: Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners, 0.85 in the front with machined to 1/2" poly Daystar spacers on the front left and 5/8” spacer on the front right – to compensate possible lean on KDSS truck that is lifted, 1.5” Daystar spacers on the rear. Lift was installed by me using hand tools.
Reason for Bilstein 5100 in the rear: Bilstein have longer travel vs. stock shocks, so with 1.5" lift-stock shocks would be overextended if rear wheel (s) drops to the max level of travel.
Reasons for Bilstein 5100 0.85 setting and using poly spacers in the front:
1) Not to preload the spring too much -keep the ride as plush as possible.
2) More preload you do more up travel is reduced- so 0.85 is as much I want to go with.
3) Adding poly spacers insulates some of the road noise (vibration)- this one is more theory than an actual statement, however, my personal experience on 4th gen 4Runner confirms that theory.
After around 3000 miles with new shocks and spacers, here is end results of the lift (height is measured from to the fender flares, gas tank is 1/2 full):
Front left: 36 3/8” Front right: 36 5/16” (1/16” difference)
Rear left: 37 15/16”, Front right: 37 7/8” (1/16 difference)
Caster: left front 3.5, right front: 3.1.
One Week after doing the lift I took my family to Moab (including trails and all national parks around the area) then Monument Valley, Grand Canyon, Petrified Forest and Painted desert-around 3000 miles total, with about 200-250 miles on trails. 4runner performed great, weather conditions were from 22 degrees (Grand Canyon) with snow, rain and dust storms to 80 degrees in Texas.
My thoughts on the lift (lifted 2.1” front, 1.5” rear, total price for all parts -with tax was $425.35):
Positive: less lean in turns and a lot less nose dive, obviously increased ground clearance, stance looks great (for me), truck feels more stable on the road (especially on highway with high side wind), CV angles looks great (almost parallel to the ground).
Negative: ride is firmer (vs. stock), it is not harsh, but you can feel the difference. I would describe it as you have slightly over-inflated tires (IMHO: expected from 5100 digressive valving). Interesting to note: I would say 70% of the “firmer” ride came from the rear (after 5100 was installed there)-I am 100% positive on this, as I took a short test drive after installing 5100 on the front and having rear stock.
PS: KDSS specific: lifting the truck with KDSS was not an issue at all, I did strap both pistons to be on a safe side (however, IMHO: I do not think it make any difference to strap or not). Having KDSS maybe added 15 minutes to my work.
Here are couple pictures from the trip and 4runner.
My goal was:
1) Small lift (on the budget): to have about 2 in the front and 1.5 in the rear (I like the front (stock) rake look and truck levels out with the load in the back anyway), keep the CV angles as straight as possible.
2) Have a ride feel as close as possible to stock, with caster as high it can go with stock UCA.
So here is what I did: Bilstein 5100 on all 4 corners, 0.85 in the front with machined to 1/2" poly Daystar spacers on the front left and 5/8” spacer on the front right – to compensate possible lean on KDSS truck that is lifted, 1.5” Daystar spacers on the rear. Lift was installed by me using hand tools.
Reason for Bilstein 5100 in the rear: Bilstein have longer travel vs. stock shocks, so with 1.5" lift-stock shocks would be overextended if rear wheel (s) drops to the max level of travel.
Reasons for Bilstein 5100 0.85 setting and using poly spacers in the front:
1) Not to preload the spring too much -keep the ride as plush as possible.
2) More preload you do more up travel is reduced- so 0.85 is as much I want to go with.
3) Adding poly spacers insulates some of the road noise (vibration)- this one is more theory than an actual statement, however, my personal experience on 4th gen 4Runner confirms that theory.
After around 3000 miles with new shocks and spacers, here is end results of the lift (height is measured from to the fender flares, gas tank is 1/2 full):
Front left: 36 3/8” Front right: 36 5/16” (1/16” difference)
Rear left: 37 15/16”, Front right: 37 7/8” (1/16 difference)
Caster: left front 3.5, right front: 3.1.
One Week after doing the lift I took my family to Moab (including trails and all national parks around the area) then Monument Valley, Grand Canyon, Petrified Forest and Painted desert-around 3000 miles total, with about 200-250 miles on trails. 4runner performed great, weather conditions were from 22 degrees (Grand Canyon) with snow, rain and dust storms to 80 degrees in Texas.
My thoughts on the lift (lifted 2.1” front, 1.5” rear, total price for all parts -with tax was $425.35):
Positive: less lean in turns and a lot less nose dive, obviously increased ground clearance, stance looks great (for me), truck feels more stable on the road (especially on highway with high side wind), CV angles looks great (almost parallel to the ground).
Negative: ride is firmer (vs. stock), it is not harsh, but you can feel the difference. I would describe it as you have slightly over-inflated tires (IMHO: expected from 5100 digressive valving). Interesting to note: I would say 70% of the “firmer” ride came from the rear (after 5100 was installed there)-I am 100% positive on this, as I took a short test drive after installing 5100 on the front and having rear stock.
PS: KDSS specific: lifting the truck with KDSS was not an issue at all, I did strap both pistons to be on a safe side (however, IMHO: I do not think it make any difference to strap or not). Having KDSS maybe added 15 minutes to my work.
Here are couple pictures from the trip and 4runner.
Attachments
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Very nice! Did you use the "compressorless" method to install your fronts? Was there a specific tutorial that you followed to do it? I've got a number of them saved, but the more information the better!
Just pulled the trigger on my set since Amazon had the rears for about $65 each, so I'll be doing this soon.
progress4m
Member
Thank you! No, I did not use "compressorless" method -just didn’t feel right… I just rented spring compressor from O’Reilly -they had one specifically for SUV\Truck. I felt very confident using it and had no issue at all.
I had read through many threads before starting the lift, here is one that was very informative overall (and that one is using "compressorless" method, if decide to go that route):
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...%92s-ideas-since-mid-2010-a-6.html#post754964
One thing I would recommend is to take your time (do not be in a hurry). The whole process is really very simple, but it takes time without a proper lift (on the garage floor) and no air tools… LOL… so again, just take your time.
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smangrum44
New member
Thanks for the pic! I think this convinced me to go .85 and 265ko2s. I’ve been contemplated the 1.75 setting with a 1” rear spacer and bigger tires. I know I don’t NEED it though. I like the stance on yours and my white trail doesn’t have running boards so it should look a little taller. Bilsteins will be here Thurs.
Did you consider going higher?
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Thought I’d add my 2 cents after lurking in the forum for several weeks-feverishly eating up every Bilstein 5100 scrap that was thrown to me.
I was torn between going back with an Icon Lift kit(had stage 1 with Pro comp control arms on my previous 5th Gen 4Runner(came with it) or going with the Bilstein 5100 all around (front at 2.5”) and using a 1.5” daystar coil spacer in the rear, using the procomp control arms. This was all about saving money for me.
I got the set put on and have put a couple hundred miles on it- and it 100% is a better ride than the Icon setup I previously had. It is also a much better ride than the stock setup. The potholes are handled much easier and it is a much better daily driver.
I was worried I was going to be cutting corners and going the cheap route, but this was 100% the route to go for me.
I have a deer lease that I need some ground clearance and it has some rough trails and the 4Runner has performed great so far. For those of you on the fence, who really only do minor off-roading and use your 4Runner as your DD- this is the route to go.
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I was torn between going back with an Icon Lift kit(had stage 1 with Pro comp control arms on my previous 5th Gen 4Runner(came with it) or going with the Bilstein 5100 all around (front at 2.5”) and using a 1.5” daystar coil spacer in the rear, using the procomp control arms. This was all about saving money for me.
I got the set put on and have put a couple hundred miles on it- and it 100% is a better ride than the Icon setup I previously had. It is also a much better ride than the stock setup. The potholes are handled much easier and it is a much better daily driver.
I was worried I was going to be cutting corners and going the cheap route, but this was 100% the route to go for me.
I have a deer lease that I need some ground clearance and it has some rough trails and the 4Runner has performed great so far. For those of you on the fence, who really only do minor off-roading and use your 4Runner as your DD- this is the route to go.
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Nashville5thGen
New member
Non spring compressor method is very simple. Just make sure you jack up high enough and have a floor jack that has enough range. Follow this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkVLBOnAifc
Nice, thanks for posting! That's a really good video showing how it works. I noticed that he didn't support the brake rotor/wheel studs to keep that from dropping down any further. I thought that would result in damage to the CV joints and/or ABS sensor wiring?
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Yep, that pic sort of sealed the deal for me too.
I'm going with .85 and stock sized tires as well. My goal is primarily to improve the ride, while at the same time improving the stance slightly and maintaining similar to stock efficiency/acceleration/braking. .85 at the front just looks right to me on 265/70 tires, although I know everyone's opinions vary!
Just installed last week using stock arms. Total gain over a stock 4runner is 2 inches all around with 275 ko2s when measured floor to top wheel well. I probably pushed my caster quite a bit and had to trim the driver side bumper. Very happy with lift. Front is stiffer with reduced nose dive and rides stock since I kept the rear oem soft shocks.
1.75 Bilstein 5100 front
and 1.5 daystar FJ spacer with OEM shocks
Alignment report:
1.75 Bilstein 5100 front
and 1.5 daystar FJ spacer with OEM shocks
Alignment report:
Just installed last week using stock arms. Total gain over a stock 4runner is 2 inches all around with 275 ko2s when measured floor to top wheel well. I probably pushed my caster quite a bit and had to trim the driver side bumper. Very happy with lift. Front is stiffer with reduced nose dive and rides stock since I kept the rear oem soft shocks.
1.75 Bilstein 5100 front
and 1.5 daystar FJ spacer with OEM shocks
Alignment report:
Looks good. I am disappointed to hear you had to trim at all with 2" of lift. I was hoping to install 275's with no lift and no trimming.
Nashville5thGen
New member
We watched the ABS wiring closely and it never strained it. We didn't loosen the alignment cams enough at first. So the first try it didn't go far enough down. And then we just slowly loosened the cam bolts until it dropped just enough. I don't think it put strain on the CV joints...but I'm definitely a rookie at this soooo...haha.
Gotcha! I think loosening the adjustment cams is the way to go. Just mark them first and then put it pack, since you'll just need to get it aligned afterwards anyway. Seems much easier than having to mess with a pry bar on the arm, which I'm weary of doing for a number of reasons.
Also, did you completely unbolt the swaybar, or just the link? Thanks for the help!
T4 Leaf
New member
I have/did, but was just unsure of the route to do it...ideally u want to upgrade the UCAs (and maybe other components) the higher you go... I wanted to get the new tires and ladder with my remaining cash... Overall I am happy with the stance, and will consider cosmetic stuff next (legacy grill and black valance...maybe and HID conversion)....before going higher...
mountainmike87
New member
Bilstein 5100? Rear stiff
Does anyone have rear 5100s and thing they ride ridiculously stiff at slow speeds. It sounds like.my damn 4runner it knocking and rattling in the rear. Quiet if I haul ass. I'm suspecting there is something wrong with my shocks there is no way it was designed to ride like I have no suspension at slow speeds and thud over every bump.
Does anyone have rear 5100s and thing they ride ridiculously stiff at slow speeds. It sounds like.my damn 4runner it knocking and rattling in the rear. Quiet if I haul ass. I'm suspecting there is something wrong with my shocks there is no way it was designed to ride like I have no suspension at slow speeds and thud over every bump.
Not the case for me. I would get it checked out at a shop near you. Could just be a very minor issue.
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You have to unbolt the swaybar on the side you are working on. I marked the alignment cams but they did not even move during the installation. Did need a long prybar which made getting the shock in a lot easier. Did not really have to pry too hard since it is a new vehicle. Also used a 2nd jack to support the kdss piston (This will be helpful to adjust when you have to reinstall the swapbar links) The main jack you just follow the youtube video for the no spring compressor method.
