habanero
Senior Member
Crawl your own mall!
Asphalt, yeah, you got me. With a couple of dents that might not have been caused by curbs. Maybe.
But no malls.
Ick.
And I still like all the pretty underbellies.
Octanejunkie's 4runner Journal - 2WD
- Thread starter octanejunkie
- Start date
Crawl your own mall!
Asphalt, yeah, you got me. With a couple of dents that might not have been caused by curbs. Maybe.
But no malls.
Ick.
And I still like all the pretty underbellies.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Not the first time today I've been called a mall crawler *roll eyes*
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Can I interest you in a dusty but not rusty tour of my 4runner's nether regions?
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habanero
Senior Member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Camping and Wheeling the White Mountains
Reserved
Reserved
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Maintenance updates, 269K milestone
Replaced coolant
No pics but it's as easy as drain it all out and fill it up. Did this first thing in the morning when the coolant was cold.
I had to remove my skids to get to the radiator petcock (PITA) but that's not too too hard. I found a milk crate fits perfectly under the skids so I can break and remove the bolts and not have to support the skids (3/16 steel is heavy) by hand. Radiator skid drops onto milk crate after removing 2 rear carriage bolts and loosening the front 2 bolts (rear bolts of the front skid) and slip trans skid back. Then just pull the milk crate out, stand the skid up and slip the milk crate under the front, radiator skid and repeat removing front 3 bolts, rear 2 bolts and loosening middle 2 bolts and slip the skid forward with the milk crate. Easy peasy.
Cracked the petcock and let the rad drain, I decided that was gonna take too long, so I put a 3.5 gal bucket under the petcock and used a 6 x 10" realtor's glossy postcard to act as a splash guard to direct the torrent of fluid into the bucket, and then removed the petcock. Minimal spillage but very effective.
Once the petcock drain started slow dripping I replaced it and broke the lower radiator hose connection on the driver side and drained out the rest. I added a cup of distilled water to the overflow container to make siphoning it out easier with a 3/8" clear hose (hose to be used later on radiator drain and fill)
It took just over 2 gallons of 50/50 to fill the system. Decided not to flush since the rad is only a year old. Let the system run at idle with the cap off and front wheels elevated to burp out the system. Took it for a test drive and monitored coolant temps, all good.
Replaced transmission fluid
Using the drain and fill, pump and pour method (one quart at a time after initial drain and fill)
10.5 quarts out, and 10.5 quarts in. Note, the 2WD A340E transmission takes 7.6 quarts dry fill.
I used a clear 3/8" hose attached to the output of my aux cooler so I could see the color of the fluid coming out. I splashed a bit of fluid separating the line from the aux cooler, but otherwise a clean operation.
The setup. I decided to go with Valvoline Max Life full synthetic as it's rated T, T-lll and T-lV which is a superior replacement for Dex ll/lll
Fluid started running clearer out of the hose after about 8 quarts out
Took her for a test drive after the service to get fluid up to temp, our cold mark measurements are notoriously inaccurate. After getting the trans up to 172° I found the fluid level to be perfect on the dipstick. If you didn't spill a significant amount of fluid, and your fluid level was correct at the beginning, replacing 1:1 what you took out is basic and easy.
I bought 3 gallons of ATF to have on hand for the flush and top-offs and will use the remainder for my power steering fluid refresh soon. Overall this was a pretty clean, painless, uninvasive and efficient method of replacing transmission fluid.
Replaced coolant
No pics but it's as easy as drain it all out and fill it up. Did this first thing in the morning when the coolant was cold.
I had to remove my skids to get to the radiator petcock (PITA) but that's not too too hard. I found a milk crate fits perfectly under the skids so I can break and remove the bolts and not have to support the skids (3/16 steel is heavy) by hand. Radiator skid drops onto milk crate after removing 2 rear carriage bolts and loosening the front 2 bolts (rear bolts of the front skid) and slip trans skid back. Then just pull the milk crate out, stand the skid up and slip the milk crate under the front, radiator skid and repeat removing front 3 bolts, rear 2 bolts and loosening middle 2 bolts and slip the skid forward with the milk crate. Easy peasy.
Cracked the petcock and let the rad drain, I decided that was gonna take too long, so I put a 3.5 gal bucket under the petcock and used a 6 x 10" realtor's glossy postcard to act as a splash guard to direct the torrent of fluid into the bucket, and then removed the petcock. Minimal spillage but very effective.
Once the petcock drain started slow dripping I replaced it and broke the lower radiator hose connection on the driver side and drained out the rest. I added a cup of distilled water to the overflow container to make siphoning it out easier with a 3/8" clear hose (hose to be used later on radiator drain and fill)
It took just over 2 gallons of 50/50 to fill the system. Decided not to flush since the rad is only a year old. Let the system run at idle with the cap off and front wheels elevated to burp out the system. Took it for a test drive and monitored coolant temps, all good.
Replaced transmission fluid
Using the drain and fill, pump and pour method (one quart at a time after initial drain and fill)
10.5 quarts out, and 10.5 quarts in. Note, the 2WD A340E transmission takes 7.6 quarts dry fill.
I used a clear 3/8" hose attached to the output of my aux cooler so I could see the color of the fluid coming out. I splashed a bit of fluid separating the line from the aux cooler, but otherwise a clean operation.
The setup. I decided to go with Valvoline Max Life full synthetic as it's rated T, T-lll and T-lV which is a superior replacement for Dex ll/lll
Fluid started running clearer out of the hose after about 8 quarts out
Took her for a test drive after the service to get fluid up to temp, our cold mark measurements are notoriously inaccurate. After getting the trans up to 172° I found the fluid level to be perfect on the dipstick. If you didn't spill a significant amount of fluid, and your fluid level was correct at the beginning, replacing 1:1 what you took out is basic and easy.
I bought 3 gallons of ATF to have on hand for the flush and top-offs and will use the remainder for my power steering fluid refresh soon. Overall this was a pretty clean, painless, uninvasive and efficient method of replacing transmission fluid.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
TPS went bad, slowly
I have been having an intermittent stalling issue (coming to a stop, traffic signal, etc) which had finally escalated to happening while driving, usually low speed/RPM street driving - but also sometimes when on the highway with cruise control on, and always while AC on. Additionally, when I came to a stop, often something inside the dash on the passenger side would start clicking and resetting, over and over; while in gear with the AC on. If I turned the AC off the clicking stopped. If I put the car in Neutral, the clicking stopped.
Last week two telltale things happened, I lost kick down function and got a PO121 code. Bad TPS. Did a little research and found this thread - looked in Torque Pro and boom, TPS was not updating in real time at all.
I ordered a replacement Toyota TPS 89452-3502, swapped it in and reset the ECM
All the problems I had been having were TPS related, the loss of kick down, the stalling, the AC clicking, etc. The car runs stronger now, no stalling and no clicking from the AC system.
If you are experiencing strange issues, seemingly throttle, fuel or ignition related, don't rule out looking at your TPS. The code took months to appear and $30 for a genuine Toyota TPS is a cheap test.
Love this forum.
I have been having an intermittent stalling issue (coming to a stop, traffic signal, etc) which had finally escalated to happening while driving, usually low speed/RPM street driving - but also sometimes when on the highway with cruise control on, and always while AC on. Additionally, when I came to a stop, often something inside the dash on the passenger side would start clicking and resetting, over and over; while in gear with the AC on. If I turned the AC off the clicking stopped. If I put the car in Neutral, the clicking stopped.
Last week two telltale things happened, I lost kick down function and got a PO121 code. Bad TPS. Did a little research and found this thread - looked in Torque Pro and boom, TPS was not updating in real time at all.
I ordered a replacement Toyota TPS 89452-3502, swapped it in and reset the ECM
All the problems I had been having were TPS related, the loss of kick down, the stalling, the AC clicking, etc. The car runs stronger now, no stalling and no clicking from the AC system.
If you are experiencing strange issues, seemingly throttle, fuel or ignition related, don't rule out looking at your TPS. The code took months to appear and $30 for a genuine Toyota TPS is a cheap test.
Love this forum.
BrianSD_42
New member
Hey Mike, next time you are considering a trip to Sierra's I recommend you check out Monache. I just went there again a few weeks ago and confirmed it is definitely doable without a transfer case. Also there is no hard long insanely steep climb up like in The Whites.
I too have the clicking/resetting type sound problem somewhere in the dash that's been driving me nuts...never knew what it was. I don't have an issue with kick down though. At $30, I may just stock up since it sounds like failure is imminent. Curious if it was hard to position on the 3rd gen...I replaced the TPS on my old 1st gen and it was a pain in the ass to adjust the position.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
There is zero adjustment, just unscrew the old one and install the new one. I believe a reset of the ECM is needed to clear a code, but it won't hurt when replacing proactively. Leave the battery disconnected for 15 mins to reset fuel tables while you are at it. Good luck!
octanejunkie
Elite Member
DreadPirateJon
New member
How does the ARB bumper attach? does it just bolt to the two sorta flimsy pieces of metal that come off of the frame?
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Basically
The bumper mounts, or "impact absorbers" as ARB calls them, slide over the ends of the frame rails after you cut the end caps off (96-98 is bolt on no cutting) and attach with 3 bolts per side. The bumper mounts to these from inside the bumper, 3 bolts per side.
The impact absorbers themselves have accordion folds in the metal across 2 dimensions and are designed to collapse on impact, even a minor impact, rendering them changed forever, or until you pull them out. Surprisingly, these parts are NOT easily replaceable and most ARB dealers don't know they can order just the impact absorbers.
There is probably an opportunity for someone industrious to redesign and sell replacements but that person is not I, but I'd be interested
Plastics guy
New member
Just a few short months ago there wasn't a single time I would jump on T4R and not see [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] all over the first thread. Helping guys out with there question, talking trash, receiving trash and all the typical forum stuff to do.
I have logged in 2 or 3 times now and don't even see [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] on the first page??? Whats going on my man? Are you good??
We would literally send out "Missing persons" threads tracking you down when you wouldn't show up for more than 12 hours. lol
things have certainly slowed down around here...
You hang out on any other forums?
I have logged in 2 or 3 times now and don't even see [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] on the first page??? Whats going on my man? Are you good??
We would literally send out "Missing persons" threads tracking you down when you wouldn't show up for more than 12 hours. lol
things have certainly slowed down around here...
You hang out on any other forums?
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Life got busy, truck's running good - nothing to report
Thanks for the mention :girl:
BrianSD_42
New member
Good to hear everything's rolling good. Any luck on getting a transfer case? You're gonna need one by March for our White's snow trip.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Lol no, but I did get a longer tow strap :lmao:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Gorman, Rower Flats, Azusa Canyon, Mt Pinos, Cleveland Natl Forest, etc are just a few of the areas within an hour or two of LA (traffic permitting) while a bit further away Big Bear and Arrowhead offer many more trails of varying difficulty.
Depending where in LA you are, Gorman is a good first time out destination with lots of beginner friendly trails right next to the National Forest
