Steel City Racing: King of the Hammers 2019 Toyota 4Runner IFS 4600 Build Thread

Personally, I prefer spring rod, but either one is fine if implemented properly. Spring rod can be a little easier to file/tweak if your net comes in a little tight after a recert/replacement. Might be worth considering putting a rod end to serve as the rear pivot for the net so it doesn't drop all the way out of reach when unlatched, that way it'll just pivot downward.

Good point. We're mounting it to the door frame and will be able to open/close the doors, so the hope is we wont have to ever unlatch it during the race to save time. We will have to unlatch/latch/tension test in Tech beforehand though.
 
Good point. We're mounting it to the door frame and will be able to open/close the doors, so the hope is we wont have to ever unlatch it during the race to save time. We will have to unlatch/latch/tension test in Tech beforehand though.

Some cleverly routed wire rope (I've used 3/16" before) can work pretty well to keep slack out of the net when it's up tight, but still allow it to sag out of the way when detached. Especially on a trapezoid profile where you might not be able to pull evenly.
 
Think this template design will work for the safety nets from PRP?
- Mesh with 1" Webbing at 8" Intervals
- Spring Steel Rod at the Top
- Spring Steel Rod at the Bottom
- Grommets around the rest (Verticals and Top Curve) for Hooks or Hose Clamps

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Per the rules:
"Nets attached to door frames are permitted."

"Nets must be installed so that the occupants can release the netting unassisted and exit the vehicle regardless of the position of the vehicle."

"The net border or edge and the net attachment must be made of materials that are as strong as, or stronger than, the net itself. Net attachments must be at a minimum of every 6 inches. Acceptable attachments include, but are not limited to: steel hose clamps, snaps, lift-a-dot, metal hooks, and steel rods. Nets must be tight so that when subject to a pushing force of approximately 50lbs the net deflects no more than four inches."
 
Some cleverly routed wire rope (I've used 3/16" before) can work pretty well to keep slack out of the net when it's up tight, but still allow it to sag out of the way when detached. Especially on a trapezoid profile where you might not be able to pull evenly.

Great idea. See template I just posted above. Maybe I need to route the wire rope through the grommet areas that will also attach with hooks/clamps?

I can see Clamps taking way too long to get off if we needed to get out fast...hooks seem better.
 
Great idea. See template I just posted above. Maybe I need to route the wire rope through the grommet areas that will also attach with hooks/clamps?

I can see Clamps taking way too long to get off if we needed to get out fast...hooks seem better.

What's the cage look like inside the door frame? Mounting to the door frame itself is tempting for ease of entry, but won't be near as secure as mounting to the frame itself. May be easier to mount to the cage. Personally, I'd be worried about ripping the net out of the door skin in an accident, I'm a little surprised the rules allow that. If you go for a high speed tumble, I wouldn't plan on the doors themselves remaining attached:

Evo+Pikes+peak+1.jpg


That's a worst-case scenario in that it's a tumble off Pike's Peak, but it should illustrate what I'm talking about. If you lose a ball joint, something breaks, or you just run out of talent at 100+ mph in the desert, I wouldn't anticipate a result too terribly different.

(Worth mentioning both driver and co-driver survived the above pictured wreck.)
 
Update: I'm still waiting on the Aeromotive parts to arrive. And I'm holding off on the Master Kill Switch until I finish the plumbing so I can test one system at a time in case either fail.

- Master Kill Switch & Fuel Line Parts: A bunch of parts arrived for the Master Kill Switch and the Fuel Cell Plumbing (but no pump just yet):
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- Fuel Line Adapters: I ran the fuel line plumbing as far as I could without a pump to ultimately tie into. Russell for lines and fittings was an obvious choice. The 5/16" quick connector fit the larger Supply line fine. I had to make an adapter out of fuel line and a doubled-up connector for the smaller Return line - in theory it should be very strong, but we'll find out when we test it. I literally inserted the OEM Supply line into the Male Adapter and ran fuel line across the top of both with clamps on both sides, so it's technically doubled-up.
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- Fuel Line Routing: I was able to route them above the frame rails and into the cab using the old fuel access hatch. It is lined with rubber, so the sheet metal cannot tear the fuel line while enduring vibrations/shocks, and clamps down tight so they cannot move. We'll see if it stays here:
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- Salvage Doors: I also finished installing the salvage doors, so all "bolt-on" exterior sheet metal is now salvage and ready for KOH abuse. I ended up getting these for a steal with glass, trim, and electronics - so I can ride to CA with the glass in and pull all glass once there.
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My only surprise on the doors is that the interior handle is integrated into the trim. It weights nothing, but may interfere with the cage. If so, I'll cut out the interior door handle and bolt it in or weld in some metal ones. We will need interior handles given the safety nets will prevent us from just using the exterior handles. And I'll need to cut into the trim for the secondary locks anyway.

- RCVs: I spoke with RCV on Friday and our front axle shafts are done! They are being shipped to Marlin's shop as early as this week. Our set will be the first set of Gen 2 shafts for the 4th gen ever made! I'm really anxious to see a RCV Gen 2 vs. OEM pic. Supposedly the difference vs. OEM and Gen 1 is HUGE - completely re-engineered CV Joints, additional housing clearance, and added strength throughout.

- Timeline: We had a build-team call on Friday and decided to delay the trip to CA until Mid-October instead of Mid-September. The front suspension and steering prototype simply won't be done until late September at this point and we need 2-weeks of testing before it goes on the 4Runner. I still feel good on the overall timeline, but it certainly pushes the first round of testing back. Everything else, including the Atlas II build, are all on track.

- Front Suspension/Steering: The front suspension/steering prototype looks great and is being built right with on-the-fly "flexibility" so we can tweak the designs, cut, and re-build if needed. I can't go into details, but it will be "Comprehensive". And Wyatt at RockSolidToys is of course anxious to get his hands on the T-Case, Rear Suspension, and Cage!

- Small Stuff: I reached out to Denso about sponsoring with new OEM parts (starter, alternator, etc) to refresh the vehicle. I also reached out to Royal Purple about a full synthetic refresh. I've finished first draft templates for the safety nets and need to transfer to poster board so I can mail to PRP. I'm also working on the rear race light, fuel level sender converter, and Comms/Intercom.
 
What's the cage look like inside the door frame? Mounting to the door frame itself is tempting for ease of entry, but won't be near as secure as mounting to the frame itself. May be easier to mount to the cage. Personally, I'd be worried about ripping the net out of the door skin in an accident, I'm a little surprised the rules allow that. [/i]
The cage will be designed in CA. The Ultra4 rules are EXTENSIVE in cage design, safety, etc. Among pages of other rules, note the following per Ultra4:

"- All vehicles, including those with stock steel doors, must have at least one side bar on each side of vehicle that will protect occupants from side impact. The sidebars must be of the same tubing material and dimensions as the main frame of the roll cage. The sidebars should be as close to parallel to the ground as possible, must be located to provide maximum protection to the occupants, and must be securely welded to the front and rear hoops of the roll cage. The location of the sidebars must not cause difficulty in entering or exiting the vehicle."

Scary picture - we'll be praying everyone has a safe race in Feb!
 
- RCVs: I spoke with RCV on Friday and our front axle shafts are done! They are being shipped to Marlin's shop as early as this week. Our set will be the first set of Gen 2 shafts for the 4th gen ever made! I'm really anxious to see a RCV Gen 2 vs. OEM pic. Supposedly the difference vs. OEM and Gen 1 is HUGE - completely re-engineered CV Joints, additional housing clearance, and added strength throughout.

Ohhhhhh, I would like to see a side by side of those new Gen 2 axles vs OEM. I just put some RCV axles in my 4R as I'm not sure what was in there before. If you can post up a pic that would be great!
 
Our new Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 200 kit arrived yesterday along with the various fittings and adapters we'll need. Still waiting on the Aeromotive wiring kit and 10m filter, but I picked up all the various hole saw blades I'll need last night so I can go ahead and mount it in the fuel cell.

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Thanks again to Aeromotive for sponsoring our build!
 
With school back in full swing here and work ramping up, my daily work sessions are starting later and later - given less traffic in the build thread, I don't think I'm the only one who is just busier!

Anyway, I stayed up till 11 last night and missed the first College Football Game of the season to get the new Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 200 system installed in the Jaz Pro Sport II cell. I also installed the Classic Instruments fuel level sender at the same time (which is missing hardware - so I'm off to get nuts/bolts/washers again today).

Nothing hardcore - pretty straight forward. The pics tell the story:

40448937_422678831589396_8916619459620241408_n.jpg


The Internals:
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Drilling Pilot Holes (through both the lid and cell):
40387801_422678938256052_3618701249018331136_n.jpg


40467188_422678978256048_3440754217004826624_n.jpg


Smaller holes for inner diameter of components:
40406696_422679018256044_4991365332166770688_n.jpg


40525823_422679064922706_7789406422361440256_n.jpg


Larger holes for outer diameter of components:
40479037_422679114922701_4886996621851623424_n.jpg


40498895_422679161589363_6521919010185936896_n.jpg


Checking fitment:
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Done:
40429982_422678781589401_5631727484073410560_n.jpg
 
This week I've been focused mostly on wrapping up the fuel cell and plumbing. Earlier today, I was able to fire it up for the first time in weeks.

Short Video:
https://www.facebook.com/SteelCityRacing4x4/videos/321765038597631/

The fuel system works flawlessly - Aeromotive, Jaz, and Russell are top notch! I still have to secure the lines/wiring for the drive to CA, but zero leaks and zero problems! Not bad for my first fuel cell plumbing install.

40932376_424937174696895_4174481050891714560_n.jpg


The lines run along the top of the frame, into the cab where I reused the rubber entry for the old fuel system wiring to ensure a snug and abrasion free entry, and into the cab. It connects to the Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 200 kit on the Jaz Pro Sport II cell. While there are two filters in the tank, I also installed a 10m filter on the supply line just before the Fuel Pressure Gauge port.

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For the fuel vent line, it has a roll-over check valve (meets KOH Rules) and routes to the side, up, over, down, and back to the center. It then ties into the OEM fuel line vent system underneath including the old catchment system (meets KOH Rules).

I still have to finish wiring the new level sender to the gauge, but I'm calling the fuel system mostly done at this point!

While I was wiring, I went ahead and installed the Rear LED Amber/Red/White Race light. I attached it to the bottom of the spoiler with a lot of hardware. It feels strong.
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There are a ton of pattern options you can select on the toggle switch where the Amber flashes differently and the Red is mostly just on. I then wired the center white LED to a toggle switch on the dash.
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Other Updates:
- The 3.8 Atlas II is done and paid for. It'll be shipped out this week.

- I went ahead and ordered my Comms and Intercom from Rugged Radios while they had their Labor Day 20% off sale. I opted for their Race Ready 2-Car 6100 system with radio/intercom wiring harnesses.

- I mailed in my template on the race window nets to PRP. We'll have mesh with 1" webbing at 8" increments, a spring rod at the top and metal rod at the bottom, and 12 grommets to make sure it is tight.

- I started on the new Master Kill Switch, but still have work to do. I also have some ideas on the secondary latches for the front doors. I hope to have it done by the end of the week.

I also shipped a ton of stuff back that didn't fit and bought more stuff that hopefully will - it's time consuming, but thank goodness for Free Returns!

More updates coming soon.
 
We got most of the Master Kill Switch wired last night - my awesome wife stayed in the garage till 11:30 to help pull wires, crimp, heat shrink, etc. We ended up missing the entire Falcons/Eagles game, but o-well.

With the flip of a switch, we will now simultaneously kill the Battery, Alternator, and Fuel Pump - surely this will finally shut the v8 down!

We ran out of 2ga wire before we could make the final connection - OEM Alternator Out Wire to the Bus. I'll close it out and test everything today.

Alternator Out Connector to Switch Input 1:
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Battery + to Switch Input 2:
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Wiring runs through firewall:
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And into the cab:
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To the Switch that is now securely mounted where the old Ash Tray plastic thing used to be:
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Switch Output goes back through firewall to power a 4 Prong Bus. Dist. Block, Fuel Pump Power, and Wire that connects back to OEM Alternator Out Wire (not yet connected as I ran out of 2ga wire) connected to remaining 3 prongs on Bus:
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I crimped all 2ga wire and used heat shrink. I still need to re-do some OEM wires (Dist. Block, for example) that need to be heat shrinked.
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Once I get 10' more of 2ga wire, I'll make the final connection from Bus to OEM Alternator Out Wire - this will flow through the OEM Alternator wiring and connect straight to the Battery + for normal charging.

I'll then test to make sure it all works as planned, shore up a few OEM connections, and zip-tie everything.
 
Last edited:
Master Kill Switch is finally done! We studied the diagram again and saw that current can flow both ways when in 1+2 mode, so no need for the final wire.

Simple Battery Connector:
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Bus with Switch Output, Factory Wires (2), and Fuel Pump:
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1+2 - Running Mode:
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OFF - Kill Mode:
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Wiring Diagram on Blue Sea switch:
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For what is so simple in concept, this project was harder than expected on a new gen vehicle.

Done and Moving On.
 
That OEM battery teminal looks like it has seen better days but for a daily driver should be OK....BUT for where you're going with this T4R are you seriously not going to replace it with something more appropiate for the conditions you're going to put the T4R through???
 
That OEM battery teminal looks like it has seen better days but for a daily driver should be OK....BUT for where you're going with this T4R are you seriously not going to replace it with something more appropiate for the conditions you're going to put the T4R through???

Yes! There are a ton of used parts that will be replaced with new before the race - including the battery terminals, alternator, etc. My focus was simply on making sure I could finally engineer a master Kill Switch circuit that actually killed the v8.

If you have recommendations on battery terminals, post them and i’ll check them out. Right now it’s way down the priority list.
 

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