Steel City Racing: King of the Hammers 2019 Toyota 4Runner IFS 4600 Build Thread

Haven't been on the forum in a while but the build is coming along great! Looking forward to more fabrication updates. I really need to get moving on some stuff on mine....
 
We’re using Alltech Baffles:

No2Foam ? Just say NO 2 Foam



I’ve read too many horror stories about foam breaking down. These are risk free with my pump and sender.



I'd highly recommend a Holley Hydramat. Used them on a few high horsepower sports car builds, and they work amazingly well. On a Viper with foam and baffles that used to struggle with under 4 gallons in the cell, we were able to run down to 1 with no stumbling issue.
 
Another update. All small stuff:
- Got the "Drivers Assist" camera wired up and mounted. We may move it to the front bumper later:
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- Ran out of gas on the way to the station and was able to coast in. I got a few weird looks:
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- Ran out of wiring and connectors again, so had to replinish. Also broke my HF Multimeter, so I upgraded:
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- Got the Fuel Gauge and Fuel Level Sender wrapped up:
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- After swapping out a faulty AEM Fuel Pressure Gauge, all fuel related gauges are done. Truck reads 14.5 AFR and 49 PSI at standard conditions. AFR dropps to 11-13.5 when above 4K RPM, but we should be able to fix it when we do the MAF Calibrator later this week:
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- All our Communications and Intercom equipment arrived from Rugged Radios. Will be installing later this week:
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- Almost done with all the small stuff I can knock out before CA:
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I'm also excited to finally announce that 4x4Labs will be partnering with Steel City Racing on this KOH build. 4x4Labs will be building our Front and Rear Bumpers, Sliders, and Skid Plates - all designed and engineered for maximum strength and clearance while minimizing weight.

Luke and his team are the best in the business and the new products & enhancements designed for this build and KOH will be integrated into future 4Runner armor offerings by 4x4Labs.

In order to keep our timeline on track, the trip out to CA is now being moved back up to late-September as originally planned! The truck will be with Luke, HD, and the 4x4Labs team starting the week of 9/24 for 3-weeks for the bumpers, sliders, and skid plates to be engineered and installed - it'll be tight, but Luke's '06 4th Gen V8 will be used for mock-up until mine arrives.

Once 4x4Labs is done, Luke has graciously agreed to drive it to Marlin for me. Once BigMike is done with his work, it'll head to RockSolidToys and then may head back to 4x4Labs to finish up the skids with the 4 Link and Atlas II completed.

Thanks again to Luke, HD, and the amazing team at 4x4Labs (www.4x4Labs.com).
 
Check out what just arrived! The 3.8 Atlas II could very well be the difference maker for our 2019 KOH. Special thanks to Steve and Cole at Advance Adapters for sponsoring our build and believing in our team.

Can't wait to get this in Wyatt at RockSolidToys' hands for the install along with his rear 4-Link!

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Along with everything we need for the install to the Toyota A750F:
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Given the lead-time on the Atlas II, I'm really glad to have this one in hand and ready to ride backseat on the trip out to CA in a few weeks!

I wonder if ours will be the first 4th Gen v8 to run a Atlas II? I think most are running dual cases...
 
Check out what just arrived! The 3.8 Atlas II could very well be the difference maker for our 2019 KOH. Special thanks to Steve and Cole at Advance Adapters for sponsoring our build and believing in our team.

Can't wait to get this in Wyatt at RockSolidToys' hands for the install along with his rear 4-Link!

Along with everything we need for the install to the Toyota A750F:

Given the lead-time on the Atlas II, I'm really glad to have this one in hand and ready to ride backseat on the trip out to CA in a few weeks!

I wonder if ours will be the first 4th Gen v8 to run a Atlas II? I think most are running dual cases...

So are you just 'deleting' the center diff lock switch? Should be a straightforward install even with the AWD V8 right? Custom crossmember mount, custom length driveshaft/s, and custom shifter routed through the floor basically into your cupholders. No more AWD on concrete.

Jealous, that's a nice chunk of metal.
 
So are you just 'deleting' the center diff lock switch? Should be a straightforward install even with the AWD V8 right? Custom crossmember mount, custom length driveshaft/s, and custom shifter routed through the floor basically into your cupholders. No more AWD on concrete.

Jealous, that's a nice chunk of metal.
Correct - No need for CDL with an Atlas II and ARBs F/R! Wyatt at RST will be doing the crossmember mount - he's very familiar with Atlas II installs. We got the Adapter for the A750F along with speedo sensors on the T-Case to compensate for possibly losing them at the rear axle. We'll then have custom driveshafts made Front and Rear through Jesse at High Angle Driveline and keep the OEM ones for spares (assuming they are still close).

I'm hoping to get the shifters to the pocket on the left of the gear shifter if possible (where the phone pocket and power plug are).

I haven't ever seen a brand new Atlas II in person. It's more impressive that I was expecting - and so Heavy Duty!
 
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Got the USB to RS-232 adapter needed for our URD MAF Calibrator. We'll be tuning it this weekend.

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Also picked up a set of Rugged Ridge Quick Disconnect side mirrors. We'll use them on the drive out to CA and can pull them off for the race. I have seen some drivers leave side mirrors on for the race - if we decide to, these collapse quickly and are made to be beaten on the trail.

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Since the trip to CA is now only a little over a week away, I need to get on Maintenance items. One of the reasons I bought the particular '06 Limited I did was because the PO was meticulous in his maintenance (all OEM) and records. Based on a 6" stack of documents, here is the summary.

The truck has 107K on it now.

Important:
- Oil Changed every 3K Miles
- Brake Master Cylinder replaced at 105K
- F/R Brake Pads replaced at 105K
- Front Calipers replaced at 105K
- Brake Fluid Flush at 105K
- Water Pump replaced at 90K
- Timing Belt replaced at 90K
- New OEM Spark Plugs at 90K
- New Serpentine Belt at 90K
- TB and MAF Cleaned at 90K
- New $200 Die Hard Battery at 107K

Obviously it already has brand new Air Intake, Headers, Hi-Flow Cats, O2 Sensors, Exhaust, Battery/Alternator Wiring, etc.

Not Important for the race, but Still Notable:
- Thermostat and Gasket replaced at 90K (170deg Therm now installed)
- AC Compressor and Condensor replaced at 75K
- Fan Clutch replaced at 75K
- Both Front Axle Shafts replaced when he put 275/60R18 Terra Grapplers and leveling kit on at 80K (will be replaced by RCVs)

No matter what I'm planning on replacing:
- Alternator (New Denso)
- Battery Terminals (Brand ?)
- All Fluids (working on a sponsor here - Mobil 1 or Amsoil maybe?)

Other suggestions?
 
Per Denso's website, the only option they have for an '06 V8 is a Re-manufactured Alternator - Part #210-0512

Does this sound right - that I cannot buy a New Denso alternator? Regardless, I went ahead and ordered the re-man unit so it'll be here in time.
 
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Per Denso's website, the only option they have for an '06 V8 is a Re-manufactured Alternator - Part #210-0512

Does this sound right - that I cannot buy a New Denso alternator? Regardless, I went ahead and ordered the re-man unit so it'll be here in time.

That's about right, Denso doesn't make new alternators for older vehicles any longer, not sure when they do the cutoff on making new alternators, even from the Toyota dealer all you can get is re-man.

That being said you can get very nice new and expensive aftermarket heavy duty alternators but not sure you need one of those, most who install these do so because they have dual batteries and many aftermarket devices requiring a lots of amps.
 
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That's about right, Denso doesn't make new alternators for older vehicles any longer, not sure when they do the cutoff on making new alternators, even from the Toyota dealer all you can get is re-man.

That being said you can get very nice new and expensive aftermarket heavy duty alternators but not sure you need one of those, most who install these do so because they have dual batteries and many aftermarket devices requiring a lots of amps.

Good to know. The re-man unit will work fine for us. It's on it's way as we speak.
 
Another update:
- We finished tuning via the URD MAF Calibrator. Unfortunately URD doesn't have a map for AFE Intake on a 4.7L V8 and didn't offer to create one for us, so we had to do it manually.

It was harder than we were thinking - me driving 0-60 mph runs, a friend in the passenger seat reading AFR at various RPMs, and a third friend in the back with the laptop tweaking things and re-uploading a new tune ever 2-3 mins. It took us well over an hour, but we got AFR around 14.5 <4K RMP (no adjustments to stock needed) and 13.5 >4K RPMs (adjustments to stock needed here) and decided not to push our luck any more. Very thankful we didn't get a ticket or stopped in the process - doing 60 in a 30 isn't easy to pull off.

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- Also got the Rugged Radios 6100 Race Ready kit installed. We gutted everything we didn't need on the center console except for the structural parts and used it to mount the radio, intercom, and toggle switches. Now all we have to do is hook to our helmets, flip a switch, stick the antenna on, and we're ready to go.

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- We also finished the secondary locks per KOH rules. Nothing pretty, but they are spring loaded for a quick lock and just plain work. Took a lot of adjustments to get these to lock/unlock easily without space in between.

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- Our PRP Safety Nets are almost done. They won't make it to AL in time, so they're being shipped to Luke at 4x4Labs' shop.

- I'm also waiting for the Denso Alternator and Rugged Radios Dual Pumper to arrive later this week. Once they are done, I'll check all fluids and be ready for the drive out to CA this coming weekend. 36-Hr Trip!
 
Are those door latches held on with sheet metal screws and a stack of washers?
That would be sad! 7/8" Bolts and Lock Nuts. Washers were used between hinge and door as the door sheet metal isn't flat all the way up.

It would have been ideal for it to lay flat, but I had to space it with the washers a little to get the lock to slide into place. I'm hopeful our OEM door locks do their job the whole race and these are just playing backup. But if they are in need of being used, they're pretty stout.
 
Be careful not to run too lean below 4k RPM when at higher altitude [emoji6]

Also, do yourselves a favor and find a proper 4wd dunk and pay a couple of bucks for dyno time. If you’re going to do it, do it right (and safe) the first time

It should be fairly easy to find a dyno shop that will let you have some dyno time. I can’t imagine it would cost more than $500 on the higher end.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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