What did you do to/in your 5th Gen today?!

Just got 15% ceramic tint all the way around. Significant difference in heat reduction inside.
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Which h9 bulbs did you use?

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I know you asked someone else but I recently did the same upgrade with these Hella 2.0 bulbs and am very happy with the difference. They have a slight bluish tint that doesn't seem to affect output and makes them slightly whiter. Much brighter than the H11s. I'm getting ready to do high-beam upgrade with the Wagner-boxed Phillips 9011s ($13ea).

The attached pic is in our parking garage in the day, but you can definitely tell a difference in brightness and whiter light, especially around the spot, with the H9 on the right compared to the H11 on the left.
 

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It's a lie, this happened Friday.
Anyways, got some new feet for the rig, getting ready for some fun next month and needed the traction. FN fx pro 17x8" wheels and stock sized 265's Nitto Ridge Grapplers.

I will say those new wheels helped fill out the look after installing rock sliders(RSG). The stock SR5 wheels made it look like it had an eating disorder.


 
Made a bracket and installed some lights.


Sorry for the sideways pic
 

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Explored for a bit after shooting. Took the little Runner out, too. Good times.
 

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Please elaborate. I'm seeing no downside to using them.

The biggest downside is that you've traded your distance projection away for slightly brighter near-field lighting. Imagine riding your bike but only looking at the front tire the entire time.

The reason for this is not brightness, but focus. Drop-in LED bulb emitters are not small enough to replicate the tiny focal point of light that a halogen filament can.

Frankly, TRD Jon is more worried about YouTube views and sponsorships than he is about actual data or testing. I'd take any of his product reviews with a grain of salt (especially because he gets kickbacks for anyone using his coupon code).

LED drop-in bulbs are unequivocally bad. Please read this thread for more information about LED bulbs and why they are a poor choice for bulb replacement in halogen headlights: 3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights | Tacoma World
 
The biggest downside is that you've traded your distance projection away for slightly brighter near-field lighting. Imagine riding your bike but only looking at the front tire the entire time.

The reason for this is not brightness, but focus. Drop-in LED bulb emitters are not small enough to replicate the tiny focal point of light that a halogen filament can.

Frankly, TRD Jon is more worried about YouTube views and sponsorships than he is about actual data or testing. I'd take any of his product reviews with a grain of salt (especially because he gets kickbacks for anyone using his coupon code).

LED drop-in bulbs are unequivocally bad. Please read this thread for more information about LED bulbs and why they are a poor choice for bulb replacement in halogen headlights: 3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights | Tacoma World

I don't know. I was seeing some nice improvements on things like cones in the distance. The light might not be as "correct" from a technical perspective, but "correct" light doesn't do much good for me if it's dull as heck.
 
I don't know. I was seeing some nice improvements on things like cones in the distance. The light might not be as "correct" from a technical perspective, but "correct" light doesn't do much good for me if it's dull as heck.

Try it out and experience it for yourself. IMO, as long as you’re happy with the results and aren’t blinding everyone in the process, then it’s all good for you.
 
How does this compare to the accessorides version. Is there a monthly subscription with the cell phone start capability?

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Haven't heard of Accessorides. I had a Compustar system with Drone Mobile in my previous T4R and LOVED it. I went with this Start-X system this time cause it's so damn easy to install.

The Carlink app is quick and easy. Their plans are one year for $40 or three years for $100. Less than $3/month if you do the 3 year. Drop $100 and just forget about it. The app for this Carlink system is called CL6. You can check it out on the app store. Oh, and the first year is free! As soon as I created an account and linked the module it immediately showed I had one year left of my subscription.

Customer service for Start-X was able to help me out and I got the Carlink app working now. Turns out there was an adapter I was supposed to use that the instructions didn't mention (was wondering why that was in the box [emoji848]). Getting the Carlink cell module to work was a bit of a pain due to lack of instructions but overall I'm very happy with the system!

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I don't know. I was seeing some nice improvements on things like cones in the distance. The light might not be as "correct" from a technical perspective, but "correct" light doesn't do much good for me if it's dull as heck.

Don't get me wrong, the factory headlights on the 4Runner (and frankly all Toyota trucks) are disappointing. There is some reasoning to this- the brighter a halogen bulb is, the quicker it burns out. Toyota figures that most owners won't want to bother with changing the bulbs much (or at all).

Halogen technology is rightfully going the way of the dodo as LEDs are much brighter, longer lasting, and more efficient. When built as a proper system with optics and power management designed for the LED light source, they're incredible. The problem isn't with LEDs- it's the idea of trying to mash one into a halogen filament projector. Look at this ridiculous thing:

2Toyota4Runner2015H11ledheadlightlowbeambulbs_800x.jpg


Everything about drop-in LED bulbs is a complete compromise in design. They try to sell the cooling fan as a feature, but really it's a symptom of trying to overdrive tiny emitters and squeeze them onto inefficient little blade heatsinks. Would you buy a light bar that relied on cooling fans to operate? No, because that's dumb as hell.

The improvements in brightness you're seeing are real. These dumb LED bulbs are often brighter. The problem is that you've shifted all of the light closer to you, limiting your ability to see further down the road. Headlights are designed to bring objects from the dark periphery gently into illumination from far away, so you can anticipate and react to road conditions. This is especially important at highway speeds. What you have now is a huge splash of light thirty feet in front of the truck, and by the time you see the deer in the road it'll be too late. Again, the problem is not brightness- it's focus.

There are plenty of upgraded halogen replacements mentioned in that thread, that will increase brightness without losing distance projection. The H9 + 9011 upgrade mentioned here is the one I have and recommend. These bulbs are also a fraction of the price of the silly Rube Goldberg LED bulbs being sold by everyone and their mother these days.
 
Here’s a comparison between OEM and conversion lights. Same exposure. Almost same focal length. About 25yds to the rock wall.


272941347845c5606399fe99c365fad1.jpg

05bcda5428fdbdf3bcb2bdb6193d2aae.jpg



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Don't get me wrong, the factory headlights on the 4Runner (and frankly all Toyota trucks) are disappointing. There is some reasoning to this- the brighter a halogen bulb is, the quicker it burns out. Toyota figures that most owners won't want to bother with changing the bulbs much (or at all).

Halogen technology is rightfully going the way of the dodo as LEDs are much brighter, longer lasting, and more efficient. When built as a proper system with optics and power management designed for the LED light source, they're incredible. The problem isn't with LEDs- it's the idea of trying to mash one into a halogen filament projector. Look at this ridiculous thing:

2Toyota4Runner2015H11ledheadlightlowbeambulbs_800x.jpg


Everything about drop-in LED bulbs is a complete compromise in design. They try to sell the cooling fan as a feature, but really it's a symptom of trying to overdrive tiny emitters and squeeze them onto inefficient little blade heatsinks. Would you buy a light bar that relied on cooling fans to operate? No, because that's dumb as hell.

The improvements in brightness you're seeing are real. These dumb LED bulbs are often brighter. The problem is that you've shifted all of the light closer to you, limiting your ability to see further down the road. Headlights are designed to bring objects from the dark periphery gently into illumination from far away, so you can anticipate and react to road conditions. This is especially important at highway speeds. What you have now is a huge splash of light thirty feet in front of the truck, and by the time you see the deer in the road it'll be too late. Again, the problem is not brightness- it's focus.

There are plenty of upgraded halogen replacements mentioned in that thread, that will increase brightness without losing distance projection. The H9 + 9011 upgrade mentioned here is the one I have and recommend. These bulbs are also a fraction of the price of the silly Rube Goldberg LED bulbs being sold by everyone and their mother these days.


Well said. That’s something I can definitely vouch for in my comparison image I posted above.


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