Brake lights constantly on?

Skid Control ECU is what Toyota calls what most people refer to as the ABS Module, this is mainly because it's technically a module that controls ABS with EBD (Electronic Brake force Distribution), BA (Brake Assist), VSC, and TRAC System and so rather than calling it an ABS/EBD/BA/VSC/TRAC module they call it Skid Control ECU.

I was trying to use roughly the same names you see in the diagrams I posted so it'd be less confusion since there's a lot of terms and acronyms in there.

Your diagnostic shows a C1246 code. Should the tech not have performed this diagnostic?? To determine or verify communication from PCM/ECU to skid control/abs module...

C1223 is an ABS Control System Malfunction and the C1246 is the Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Malfunction.

I would manually pull ALL the codes also to get a better idea of what's going on. There may be more DTC codes related to your skid/abs modules inputs/sensors than just the brake lamp switch with can cause it to disable your abs related functions.. Like I mentioned earlier he only followed the flow chart for the stop lamp switch..
 

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i long for the day when i thought maybe just a bad switch or relay :(

i can reach out to service and ask for whatever other technical data presented itself with that diagnostic. if anyone would like to line item a list of additional requests.....

not to belabor the plastic cover breakage, because i don't think it contributes to the other issue (unless it has been there since 2013 and has let in moisture which has damaged the computer board), but, during this two hour diagnostic,
would the tech have removed the module harness?, and would he have pried the cover off the module?, and if so, he could have stepped on it or set a stool leg on it, etc, to cause that rather impactful damage. it really took some force on that corner to do that damage. i ask esp. because i will have to present this damage to the dealership.
 
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and, i just found another flaw in the visit. i was under the car looking at the speed sensors. at the front, looking at the right (passenger) side, i see a bad complete tear in the outer CV boot! i go back to the multi-point inspection page, and the drive/cv shaft is checked GREEN! how did he miss that?? same person doing the diagnostic? broken plastic cover? confidence is going down, not up.

i bring this up because it shakes my confidence in the $300 diagnosis and finding.

here are two pics:
 

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and, i just found another flaw in the visit. i was under the car looking at the speed sensors. at the front, looking at the right (passenger) side, i see a bad complete tear in the outer CV boot! i go back to the multi-point inspection page, and the drive/cv shaft is checked GREEN! how did he miss that?? same person doing the diagnostic? broken plastic cover? confidence is going down, not up.

i bring this up because it shakes my confidence in the $300 diagnosis and finding.

here are two pics:

the checklist:

We don't refer to the dealerships as "Stealerships" for no reason!!

If you don't do your own vehicle/mechanical work, any unknown mechanic at a independent garage or dealership is iffy IMHO, after all they're only human and humans either makes mistakes, miss something or some just don't care and rush through the work and are just waiting for the work day to be over, it's like a box of chocolates you never know what you're going to get!!
 
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i do do my own work whenever i can. this electric issue has been beyond me so far, though maybe not the actual fix). i am going to put together a documented complaint to send to the service manager. contemplating contacting cc company to file a dispute/damage claim.
 
Your diagnostic shows a C1246 code. Should the tech not have performed this diagnostic?? To determine or verify communication from PCM/ECU to skid control/abs module...

C1223 is an ABS Control System Malfunction and the C1246 is the Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Malfunction.

I would manually pull ALL the codes also to get a better idea of what's going on. There may be more DTC codes related to your skid/abs modules inputs/sensors than just the brake lamp switch with can cause it to disable your abs related functions.. Like I mentioned earlier he only followed the flow chart for the stop lamp switch..

C1223 is literally "Hey, I have an issue in the ABS/VSC/TRAC system" much in the same way the ABS module sets a C1201- Engine Control Malfunction when the check engine light sets, regardless of what actual problem the ECM has. It's a DTC that directs you to the trouble module, the FSM literally just has you go"Is there a C1223? Check ABS System for other ABS/VSC/TRAC DTCs and diagnose those first." It's slightly more useful that the P1604-Startability Malfunction that every damn Toyota sets and literally means nothing and almost every car has it stored.

So you'd basically just disregard the C1223 in this case because we already know the issue is in the ABS/VSC/TRAC system, so you'd just look at the C1246-Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Malfunction issue. If you look at the troubleshooting tree for that DTC you'll see that listed as possible problem areas are: Master cylinder pressure sensor, Master cylinder pressure sensor circuit, Stop light switch circuit, Master cylinder solenoid.

Something to note is that the reason the Stop Light Switch Circuit is a possible trouble area is because the Skid Control ECU is using the brake switch signal fed to it via the STP pin to verify that pressure changes match what it should see against it's internal table when the pedal is pressed; if the circuit is faulty the Skid Control ECU doesn't know that the pedal is being pressed and thus cannot be sure that the pressures and/or sensor are accurate to what it should see.

That coupled with the customer's original concern regarding the brake lights always being on would mean the best place to start and rule things out is the brake light circuit which is what the technician appears to have done. In the course of that diagnostics they determined that the Skid Control ECU is faulty per their checks.

i do do my own work whenever i can. this electric issue has been beyond me so far, though maybe not the actual fix). i am going to put together a documented complaint to send to the service manager. contemplating contacting cc company to file a dispute/damage claim.

I would bring that up to the service writer and the service manager. It's very likely the technician who did your oil change & multi-point and the technician who did the diagnosis are not the same person. It's common when the shop's busy to have Lube Bay do the "easy stuff" like oil changes, tire change outs, etc. and then have more critical or better paying work sent to the back shop for certified technicians to do. Technically speaking if a Lube Tech sees something like that and they're not sure what to write down (because it seems like most of them barely know which end their pants go on...) they're supposed to notify a service writer and/or grab a technician to double-check and make sure it gets noted down.

So I would politely (or not, it's up to you) mention to the service writer and the service manager that this was missed on your inspection and you are unhappy. Maybe they'll give you a refund on the oil change, or a free detail, or something I don't know how they do business over there... I would hope they would go chew out the Lube Tech who missed that and make sure that it doesn't happen again, but let's be real here. :whistle:

I get your waning confidence in the work done to your vehicle. I personally get annoyed when lube bay does something like miss an item on a customer's car or not clean up a mess and the customer thinks I was the one who did that, it happens more often than I'd like. As for the technician's initial diagnosis regarding the Skid Control ECU being faulty, I do see the logic there and his testing does seem to indicate that is the likely culprit; though as I mentioned above, there is one or two points that stick out to me and I'd want to rule them out personally before fully committing to that diagnosis. But again, I wasn't there when the vehicle was brought in, scanned, diagnosed, and I haven't seen the customer's concern myself either; so I am just arm chair wrenching here.
 
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and, i just found another flaw in the visit. i was under the car looking at the speed sensors. at the front, looking at the right (passenger) side, i see a bad complete tear in the outer CV boot! i go back to the multi-point inspection page, and the drive/cv shaft is checked GREEN! how did he miss that?? same person doing the diagnostic? broken plastic cover? confidence is going down, not up.

i bring this up because it shakes my confidence in the $300 diagnosis and finding.

here are two pics:

Ouch, hope you're ready for new CV's too. I replaced mine at 100,000
 
Ouch, hope you're ready for new CV's too. I replaced mine at 100,000

just checked my repair records (i write a quick check summary as well). that axle was replaced by a local independent at 199k miles with aftermarket. original lasted 199k. gonna have to check on warranty, only good thing about aftermarket is sometimes long warranty.
 
more investigation into possible origin. weird, i thought this issue popped up in the past year, but appears it may have been around much longer, since 200k/2018. damage still exists on the module case. if it was there that long, could seasonal moisture crept into it, causing corrosion etc?
 

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and, i just found another flaw in the visit. i was under the car looking at the speed sensors. at the front, looking at the right (passenger) side, i see a bad complete tear in the outer CV boot! i go back to the multi-point inspection page, and the drive/cv shaft is checked GREEN! how did he miss that?? same person doing the diagnostic? broken plastic cover? confidence is going down, not up.

i bring this up because it shakes my confidence in the $300 diagnosis and finding.

here are two pics:

Not to be the bearer of more bad news but it also looks like there’s a decent sized rust hole in the frame.

I’d also like to say, having someone like [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] on this forum is priceless! Very good technical info!
 
Not to be the bearer of more bad news but it also looks like there’s a decent sized rust hole in the frame.

I’d also like to say, having someone like [MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION] on this forum is priceless! Very good technical info!

thats not a rust hole in the frame, it is a rusty hole in the brake dust cover! thx for scaring me...
 
just checked my repair records (i write a quick check summary as well). that axle was replaced by a local independent at 199k miles with aftermarket. original lasted 199k. gonna have to check on warranty, only good thing about aftermarket is sometimes long warranty.

don't want to get off track, and will probably open a different thread for this repair, stopped by independent, he spoke to distributor, was told only one year warranty on axle. was told in in second year they could do it, but not nearly 4 years later (though only 30k miles).

not hearing any joint noise, so maybe a boot replacement? easy and possible? if i need to replace, i need to look at OE possibilities. i can get aftermarket with lifetime warranty, but labor is not covered after 1 year. interested in DIY, but have never replaced/repaired a drive axle. i know off roaders do it a lot.
 
thats not a rust hole in the frame, it is a rusty hole in the brake dust cover! thx for scaring me...

That’s a lot better than the frame! Couldn’t tell from the angle.

I thought the same thing for a second when I first saw the photo, but then I realized what I was looking at with the CV boot there and then it either had to be big rust hole in the brake dust shield or it was a big rust hole in the front differential which would be worst then it being the frame. LOL
 
don't want to get off track, and will probably open a different thread for this repair, stopped by independent, he spoke to distributor, was told only one year warranty on axle. was told in in second year they could do it, but not nearly 4 years later (though only 30k miles).

not hearing any joint noise, so maybe a boot replacement? easy and possible? if i need to replace, i need to look at OE possibilities. i can get aftermarket with lifetime warranty, but labor is not covered after 1 year. interested in DIY, but have never replaced/repaired a drive axle. i know off roaders do it a lot.

OEM prices are f$cking stupid. Boot replacement, looks a little late for that. Did mine myself for $120 in an afternoon (both sides). A1 Cardone axles. Same boot material and boots secured with method exactly the same as OEM.. figured I can buy ten sets of these for the price of one OEM set.. off roading the f_ck out of them for a year now, no problems.. kept my OEMs for trail back ups and extra boots just in case. DIY
 

i see lots of mud/dirt there, rather than rust possibilities from 15 years up north. looks like you need to detach some suspension components. mine was done in 2018/30k, so perhaps that would make it easier.

i think mine was cardone. shop said they are remans, with 1 year warranty. can't see how they compare the OE's, which lasted at least 150k under same conditions. indie says they now use another supplier with non-remaned with a lifetime part warranty.
 
yeah that's what a day in the mud pit riddled dirty south forest looks like! Tip to self, rinse mud off before working!! No rust on my b1tch!
 

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