JoeT4R’s 2001 SR5 Build & Maintenance Thread

Well, I tried tackling the front diff drain bolt today with negative results. I was able to get the 3/8" extractor inside the hex head once I rounded off the drain bolt some more, but every time I'd hammer the extractor in and began turning, it would just pop right back out. I may have to swallow my pride on this one and take it somewhere to be removed. I just don't want to have to pay to have it done. Nor does it feel very good to be defeated by a drain bolt.

But because the weather is too beautiful today to waste, I went ahead and did my rear diff fluid. I couldn't help myself and had to do some wrenching outside. I ended up putting in some SuperTech 75W-90 full syn, which originally I had purchased for the front diff job. The rear diff takes 80W-90 per the owner's manual, however I read somewhere on here that a user had some email correspondence with Toyota and they said that 75W-90 was acceptable for use in the rear diff. So we'll see how it holds up. I drained out some AMSOIL 80W-90 that was still in good shape and clear in color. Last drain and fill was sometime in the Spring of 2021. Definitely 15K+ miles ago. So maybe I'll make it a point to do yearly drain and fills of it since it gets used the most. There were some metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug but nothing horrible. Pics below for reference.

Date: 6/20/22
Mileage: 314,507

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52160988025/in/dateposted/" title="Rear diff drain & fill - 6/20/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52160988025_3cc6e19945_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Rear diff drain & fill - 6/20/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52161046580/in/dateposted/" title="Rear diff fluid - 6/20/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52161046580_9c4414b0d7_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Rear diff fluid - 6/20/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52159600732/in/photostream/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52159600732_53de948f2a_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
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JoeT4R said:

Well, I tried tackling the front diff drain bolt today with negative results. I was able to get the 3/8" extractor inside the hex head once I rounded off the drain bolt some more, but every time I'd hammer the extractor in and began turning, it would just pop right back out. I may have to swallow my pride on this one and take it somewhere to be removed. I just don't want to have to pay to have it done. Nor does it feel very good to be defeated by a drain bolt.

But because the weather is too beautiful today to waste, I went ahead and did my rear diff fluid. I couldn't help myself and had to do some wrenching outside. I ended up putting in some SuperTech 75W-90 full syn, which originally I had purchased for the front diff job. The rear diff takes 80W-90 per the owner's manual, however I read somewhere on here that a user had some email correspondence with Toyota and they said that 75W-90 was acceptable for use in the rear diff. So we'll see how it holds up. I drained out some AMSOIL 80W-90 that was still in good shape and clear in color. Last drain and fill was sometime in the Spring of 2021. Definitely 15K+ miles ago. So maybe I'll make it a point to do yearly drain and fills of it since it gets used the most. There were some metal flakes on the magnetic drain plug but nothing horrible. Pics below for reference.

Date: 6/20/22
Mileage: 314,507

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52160988025/in/dateposted/" title="Rear diff drain & fill - 6/20/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52160988025_3cc6e19945_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Rear diff drain & fill - 6/20/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52161046580/in/dateposted/" title="Rear diff fluid - 6/20/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52161046580_9c4414b0d7_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Rear diff fluid - 6/20/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52159600732/in/photostream/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52159600732_53de948f2a_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52160859204/in/photostream/" title="Untitled"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52160859204_6bacd62897_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Untitled"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

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Sucks about the drain plug. Some guys heat the area around the plug. A few folks have welded nuts to stripped drain plugs to remove. I got lucky and mine opened up with a long breaker bar.

The duty cycle of diff oil is 30K miles, IIRC

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octanejunkie said:

Sucks about the drain plug. Some guys heat the area around the plug. A few folks have welded nuts to stripped drain plugs to remove. I got lucky and mine opened up with a long breaker bar.

The duty cycle of diff oil is 30K miles, IIRC

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Click to expand...

The only thing I haven’t tried is heat, but I’m just going to leave it be until I get over to the guy’s house to weld the hex bit on. Must be a great feeling to have yours open up with ease. I used a 1/2” breaker bar on it with no positive results. Oh well.

It has definitely surpassed 30K miles… last time it was done was in December? 2014… so yeah… lol. Transfer case and rear diff have been serviced regularly. I ended up doing my rear diff yesterday after a year and two months (15K, 16K, 17K miles?) and the fluid was still very clean. It was AMSOIL, too, if that counts for anything. I put in SuperTech 75W-90 that I had on hand since it was supposed to be for the front diff. We’ll see how it holds up— I plan to do yearly changes of the front/rear diff from now on. Metal flaking on the drain plug wasn’t too bad, either. I’m just a little nervous because the rear calls for 80W-90, so hopefully the 75W doesn’t do anything it shouldn’t…

You can pound a impact torx head into the hex plugs to get them out and replace them. I think it's [50 or 55 ish]. Mine one 4 runner had that done to it by a po. I just replaced the plug once I removed it with a new one.

We were trying to figure out why the hex wouldn't fit until we figured out what they did. Then just put the proper sized torx in and it came right out.

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brillo_76 said:

You can pound a impact torx head into the hex plugs to get them out and replace them. I think it's [50 or 55 ish]. Mine one 4 runner had that done to it by a po. I just replaced the plug once I removed it with a new one.

We were trying to figure out why the hex wouldn't fit until we figured out what they did. Then just put the proper sized torx in and it came right out.

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Well given that it’s pretty much completely rounded off now, I feel like that won’t be an option for me. Such a headache this has become. But either way it’s coming out soon. And I can’t wait!

JoeT4R said:

Well given that it’s pretty much completely rounded off now, I feel like that won’t be an option for me. Such a headache this has become. But either way it’s coming out soon. And I can’t wait!

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Use the next size of torx up in it. IT will smash in and work..

Last night I found some data on the oversized oil filters that are commonly used for the 5VZ platform. Posting this here to save as a reference for anyone who may need it/be interested. It has certainly swayed my decision to use the Napa Gold 1516 anymore from here on out. Looks like I will be returning to the YZZD3's instead that I've used for literal years and calling it a day. Can't go wrong with OEM Toyota!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52176749679/in/dateposted/" title="Oversized 5VZ oil filter information"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52176749679_666655586e_z.jpg" width="296" height="640" alt="Oversized 5VZ oil filter information"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

According to this if I am reading it correctly, the wix suck. Toyota has no information and the middle one is the best?

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brillo_76 said:

According to this if I am reading it correctly, the wix suck. Toyota has no information and the middle one is the best?

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That's what I'm taking away from it. I don't think it says the Toyota filters suck, it just doesn't have efficiency data available, although I'd love to know what the stats are for it. It does say that the Toyota filter has more square inches of filtering media, and synthetic media at that, which I like. But according to the post, the Purolator PureONE is the best. I've used Toyota D3 filters for years and plan to go back to them at my next oil change. Of course I just changed my oil at the beginning of this month using the Napa Gold 1516. It'll work in the meantime, I just like to over analyze this kind of stuff. I would consider trying to PureONE filter, but I know I'll sleep better at night using a Toyota one. I love how this stuff drives me crazy.

JoeT4R said:

That's what I'm taking away from it. I don't think it says the Toyota filters suck, it just doesn't have efficiency data available, although I'd love to know what the stats are for it. It does say that the Toyota filter has more square inches of filtering media, and synthetic media at that, which I like. But according to the post, the Purolator PureONE is the best. I've used Toyota D3 filters for years and plan to go back to them at my next oil change. Of course I just changed my oil at the beginning of this month using the Napa Gold 1516. It'll work in the meantime, I just like to over analyze this kind of stuff. I would consider trying to PureONE filter, but I know I'll sleep better at night using a Toyota one. I love how this stuff drives me crazy.

Click to expand...

The YZZD3 is not specifically synthetic rated, but what do you guys think about this filter with synthetic?

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that brass on black looks amazing, love your build

octanejunkie said:

The YZZD3 is not specifically synthetic rated, but what do you guys think about this filter with synthetic?

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Click to expand...

I never once have had a single issue or complaint with the D3's. Even Blackstone told me that my oil filter did a great job keeping insoluble material within spec when I sent them my first sample. That was with the D3. But what turns me off to the Napa Gold now is the much smaller area of the filtering media and the percentages of efficiency when filtering "x" micron particles when compared to the D3. So that's enough to make me wanna go back to Toyota filters. I've also exclusively used synthetic oil on my rig, except for the first oil change after I got it, which was well over 100K miles ago. So it's had a good diet over the years to say the least. But even then, no adverse affects running synthetic oil w/ the D3 filter.

I've been monitoring a slight oil seep over the last few weeks that seems to be making its way down to the bottom of my oil pan. At my last oil change on 6/1/22, I swapped out my OEM drain bolt for the Fumoto-F133. When I installed the Fumoto valve, I actually used an OEM drain plug gasket instead of the supplied fiber gasket that came with the Fumoto valve.

This oil "seep" has been surrounding my drain plug recently and I'm wondering if it has anything to do with the gasket I used or if it simply needs to be tightened. I kind of want to remove the Fumoto and reinstall the OEM drain plug, but I really like the idea of running the Fumoto. I'm not really sure which direction I want to take this. I could try tightening the Fumoto to see if that helps any, but I also don't want to overtighten it and possibly run the risk of stripping my drain pan, which has happened in the past many, many years ago.

So last night I crawled beneath my rig and did some much needed investigating. The only wet/oily spots I visually observed were on the driver side, directly beneath the oil filter, where some of the FIPG seemed to be protruding a bit from where the pan seals to the bottom of the engine. When I poked it, a little oil would come out, so I'm not quite sure if that's exactly where this seep is coming from, but there wasn't any wet/fresh oil dripping down the pan from that particular location. So I wiped everything down as best I could and called it a night. I'll post some pictures here for reference as I continue to monitor this.

In addition to checking the oil pan, I took a peek at the external oil cooler as well. And while it is definitely covered in 300,000 miles worth of gunk, I didn't see any active oil leaks coming from it. So I think it's safe to rule that out.

I could drain the oil, remove the Fumoto valve and reinstall the OEM plug tomorrow or the next day if I really felt compelled to. The thing is, the oil has less than 1K miles on it. Kind of wasteful, but I'm willing to pay the price if that means it will stop this slight oil seep. If anyone has some input they'd like to give, I am absolutely willing to listen, as I'd like to put this to a halt as soon as possible. In addition to all of this, I actually purchased some SuperTech full synthetic high mileage oil that I have every intention to use at my next oil change. I've only ever ran full synthetic, whether it was AMSOIL, Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and most recently, Kirkland Signature full synthetic. All in the 5W-30 flavor. I even emailed Blackstone Labs and asked about the benefits of running a high mileage motor oil. I'll post their response to my inquiry below:

"Joe,

Thanks for reaching out again, and thanks for the kind words!

We typically suggest using what the manufacturer recommends, but feel free to try other brands/grades/formulas. Switching between synthetic and conventional oil is okay too. I wouldn't expect changes in wear levels due to the oil type alone, but maybe you'll notice other changes on your end like quieter operation, for example.

Kirkland oil is a popular choice and it tends to do a good job like most oils we test, so I don't think it's a bad idea to keep using it. I would be surprised if it caused any trouble for your 4Runner's engine.

High mileage oil is advertised as helping to recondition seals and gaskets, and maybe there's some truth to that, but in testing, it doesn't look significantly different than other oils/formulas. The additive packages are often similar, but maybe there's something about HM oil that doesn't show up in testing. Feel free to try it to see if it helps with the seep - it shouldn't bother anything. If you don't like it for any reason, then you can always switch to another oil.

Let us know what you find with the seep when you send your next sample. If you find a bad seal/gasket and fix it, then we may find high silicon (from silicone sealers) in the next sample, which should wash out with each oil change thereafter.

Please let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank you."

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52178820105/in/dateposted/" title="Investigation of possible oil seep/leak - 6/27/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52178820105_4dc4459648_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Investigation of possible oil seep/leak - 6/27/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52178576334/in/photostream/" title="Investigation of possible oil seep/leak - 6/27/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52178576334_5281d24e44_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Investigation of possible oil seep/leak - 6/27/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52178576294/in/photostream/" title="Investigation of possible oil seep/leak - 6/27/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52178576294_2a2a91a6d7_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Investigation of possible oil seep/leak - 6/27/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Could be the oil filter itself leaking (well, the gasket).

One of the other nice things about the OEM filter is that they use a real o-ring instead of a cut square gasket. They are less likely to leak, even with lower installation torque... oh, and the gasket comes pre-lubed. I have moved back to the "D3" filter after years of using PureONE filters on multiple Toyotas. Just buy in bulk!

-Charlie

phattyduck said:

Could be the oil filter itself leaking (well, the gasket).

One of the other nice things about the OEM filter is that they use a real o-ring instead of a cut square gasket. They are less likely to leak, even with lower installation torque... oh, and the gasket comes pre-lubed. I have moved back to the "D3" filter after years of using PureONE filters on multiple Toyotas. Just buy in bulk!

-Charlie

Click to expand...

No visible oil leaks around the oil filter were observed. I’d like to rule it out as well. I’m beginning to wonder if maybe it’s the actual Fumoto valve itself that could be leaking, since I wasn’t able to use a torque wrench when installing it. I’m half tempted to ditch the thing altogether and just use my OEM drain plug.

Totally agreed about the OEM filters. They have excellent build quality, QC, are always pre-lubricated and even have that plastic wrapped around the bottom to prevent contaminants from entering into the filter itself. They do a great job, I’ve never once had a single issue with one and they’re so smooth when installing. I’m definitely switching back to them at my next oil change and look forward to it.

1996-2002 Factory Service Manual - Google Drive

1996-2002 FSM in Google Drive link for anyone who may be in search of it:
4Runner FSM 1996-2002.pdf - Google Drive

In light of my second to last post about chasing this potential oil seep, I went ahead and drained my oil today and then removed the Fumoto valve. Going to be returning it for a full refund. I really love the idea of having it and everything but not at the cost of potential oil leaks. It was also pretty neat to watch it drain when I opened the valve. It did take a bit longer than normal, but by no means did it take excruciatingly long.

So this morning I purchased a new OEM drain plug from Toyota and installed that. Additionally, I was reading the 96-02 FSM and discovered that the engine oil drain plug factory torque spec is 29 ft-lbs. I've always referenced my Haynes manual over the years which specified 20 ft-lbs. I decided to set it to halfway and torqued the new drain plug to 25 ft-lbs, seemed nice and tight. Installed with a new OEM gasket as well.

Finally, I figured that if any time would be good to perform an experiment, it would be now. I purchased some SuperTech Full Synthetic High Mileage 5W-30 and poured that in. Coupled with a YZZD3 filter, I'm hoping for good results. I know that I had recently switched to Costco's Kirkland Signature Full Synthetic, and it's a fine oil, but I'm going to exclusively run this high mileage stuff for a while and then send off a sample to Blackstone to see what exactly they say. As I'm approaching 315K I think using a high mileage motor oil may be a good thing, but only time will tell, so we'll see.

Debated on bringing my oil change interval down from 5K to 4K, but I think I may just leave that alone and stick to 5K. I haven't had any issues with a 5K interval, but sometimes I get overprotective about things and want to reassure myself that my engine is happy and healthy. I'm determined to get my rig to 400K and hopefully beyond. Pics for reference down below.

Date: 6/29/22
Mileage: 314,863

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52183059200/in/dateposted/" title="Oil change - 6/29/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52183059200_a54e245ae7_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Oil change - 6/29/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52182252209/in/dateposted/" title="Fumoto F-133 before removal"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52182252209_0b1ca3ff47_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Fumoto F-133 before removal"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52182578963/in/dateposted/" title="Oil change - 6/29/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52182578963_37a73cb478_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Oil change - 6/29/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52182821944/in/dateposted/" title="Oil change - 6/29/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52182821944_f85c657dbd_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Oil change - 6/29/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/195517094@N03/52181551947/in/dateposted/" title="Oil change - 6/29/22"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52181551947_8f68631518_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Oil change - 6/29/22"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Much ado about nothing, but whatever makes you sleep better at night

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I still don't see how a (theoretical) leak at the drain plug made it up to the lip of the oil pan...

Save that Fumoto valve until you know your leak is fixed.

-Charlie

phattyduck said:

I still don't see how a (theoretical) leak at the drain plug made it up to the lip of the oil pan...

Save that Fumoto valve until you know your leak is fixed.

-Charlie

Click to expand...

It couldn’t, so I’m assuming that there are two different issues here. The first being the FIPG that’s protruding from the pan that seeps oil when I poke it, the other being whatever is coming out at and staying near and around the drain plug.

I returned the Fumoto valve this morning for a full refund. Not worth it to me and I have much better peace of mind with the OEM plug. I can say that I’ve tried one now and didn’t like it, which is okay. I’ll continue monitoring the new drain plug to see if anything else happens. I’m hopeful that this will resolve the issue with the drain plug. The fipg that seeps when I poke it isn’t leaking onto the oil pan itself, which is good. And who knows, maybe it’s just oil that has fallen onto it from when I’ve removed the oil filter in changes past. I cleaned everything up nicely yesterday so we’ll see what happens from here on out.