What is best process to bring back faded SR5 Flares?

masphx · Jun 5, 2013

Took my 4Runner to get detailed today. Real reason for the detail was to bring out the shine again in the natural white oem paint. I wanted the detailer to really get down to the paint so I took off all unnecessary stuff. One of those being the SR5 Flares. Since they are off I thought I would address the fade on them. Is it best to just paint them or take a heat gun to them? If paint what type works best? My sliders are painted hammered black and I'm going to try plastic dip on my rear bumper, front bumper and rims. If I like the look going to paint them permanently so would like to find a paint I could use on everything so I can keep the rig simple.

Here are the flares I'm referring to...

Thanks,

Mason

jreask · Jun 5, 2013

I use a product called TrimShine. Works great and lasts about three months. Spray can, make sure you protect your paint if the flares are on the
truck.

http://www.trimshine.com/

shootmymime · Jun 5, 2013

Use a brissal brush like a super large tooth brush of some sort and apply some tire shine to a rag then wipe down and scrub in with brush. Then wipe again. That's what i do on my 96 and they stay black even this long.

Millerad1651 · Jun 5, 2013

I took mine off when I detailed the paint. I then washed them in dish soap in a baby pool, getting all the grease and road grime off. After they dried I painted them with Krylon Fusion Satin Black...its made to stick to plastics. Since the flares already have a texture to them, you don't need to sand them or anything. Almost a year later and they still look like new.

Before...

After...

MONTYMTB · Jun 5, 2013

Go ahead and paint them, you'll be glad you did. I have recently painted my bumper cover, cowl, wiper arms, rear air deflector and interior plastic trim with SEM Bumper Coater and they all turned out great. Went with color 39293 - Honda Black. I would snap some pics for you, but it's storming pretty good here right now.

Coast2Coast · Jun 5, 2013

Use this product:

Gtechniq C4 Permanent Trim Restorer, rubber trim sealant, trim restorers, gtech c4

It's expensive as Balls, but it is the best trim restorer on the market and it prevents dirt, mud, water from staying on the surface. Water will bead and roll right off when you wash it like freshly waxed paint, and it will last a year minimum. Look it up on youtube videos for more info.

madetomeasure · Jun 5, 2013

For real, there was trick in the VW forums I used to hit up when I had a 2003 Passat GLX (lots of black trim, rockers and valances front and rear) ...

Peanut Butter. :jaw drop:

The all natural kind where the peanut oil separates...

Smear it on, let it sit for a half-hour or so, wipe it off.
The oil penetrates and brings back the black.

WrexHAmm · Jun 5, 2013

madetomeasure said:
For real, there was trick in the VW forums I used to hit up when I had a 2003 Passat GLX (lots of black trim, rockers and valances front and rear) ...

Peanut Butter. :jaw drop:

The all natural kind where the peanut oil separates...

Smear it on, let it sit for a half-hour or so, wipe it off.
The oil penetrates and brings back the black.

Once you are done with that smear some jelly on your windows. No really does that actually work?

Millerad1651 · Jun 5, 2013

I'd always be craving PBJs if I used that method! The paint is cheapest, and lasts more than a year...I'd go with that. I bought two cans a had more than enough.

1blink · Jun 6, 2013

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/135784-[review]-auto-black.html

I used this stuff a few months ago. Very pleased.

MONTYMTB · Jun 6, 2013

I have used both the C4 and the Forever Black on my bumper cover and they worked, but neither lasted very long. Also, when it started to fade again it was very streaky and looked worse than it did when I started. That may have been caused by me applying it unevenly, but it wasn't streaky after I first did it. To me, it looks much better after being painted, and I probably won't have to deal with again for a long time.

masphx · Jun 6, 2013

A lot of good tips so thank you guys,

So far I like Millerad1651's the most for cost and look. Any chance you can shoot me some close-ups of the paint? Did you also use that spray on other parts like the rear wind deflector? Some of these other products look very nice but price and availability (not at stores) are an issue.

So like I said the 4Runner was detailed today and all I can say is WOW! Cost me $110 + $20 tip for the exterior only and she looks brand new! Paint was dull and now shiny...

Before pic...

After pictures...

Now I just need to paint or stain these flares and other various trim parts and she will look complete again.

Mason

Millerad1651 · Jun 6, 2013

Here is the paint I used...satin black. I got it at Wally World for $8 or so.

Fusion for Plastic® - | Krylon

I also used one of these...highly recommend one.

Shop Rust-Oleum Comfort Paint Spray Grip at Lowes.com

I used the paint on the flares (just the outside, not underside), wind deflector, inside of my grille, back bumper trim, and wife's roof rack and rails. It still looks great a year later.

MONTYMTB · Jun 6, 2013

Finally stopped raining, snapped some pics for you.

Bumper cover and hitch:

Cowl and wiper arms:

Air deflector:

I'm also using the SEM to paint over the fake wood grain trim on the interior:

I did the bumper cover and air deflector a little over 2 months ago and it's holding up very well. FYI - my 4Runner is parked outside 24/7.
Good luck with whatever product you decide to go with.

Natey · Jun 6, 2013

The paint I used is called "trim black". My brother works as an autobody tech and brought some over when I was preparing my old car for selling.

My Protege5 had rust HOLES in the black part around the doors.

lilsid112 · Jun 6, 2013

The detail came out great. I think it looks better without the faded flares and you should just send them to me.:behindsofa:

I've used back to black and its worked pretty decently if you don't want to paint them.

tee-bone · Jun 6, 2013

I don't have that style of flares. However, if they are made of the same stuff as the cover over the rear bumper, I'll give you the Pro Tip.

Use a heat gun.

Clean off the surface (no need to even use an abrasive) and then go for it. As you are running the gun over the surface, it makes it look almost wet. After it cools, you lose a little of the wet look, but it stays black. You can re-do it once a year or so and it keeps the stuff looking new. Obviously, take precautions so that you keep the heat fairly diffuse and you don't get more than the surface real hot.

Not sure it would work on the cowl below the windshield, though. Considering it is free, though, I guess I will try it soon.

cj80cruiser · Jun 6, 2013

tee-bone said:
I don't have that style of flares. However, if they are made of the same stuff as the cover over the rear bumper, I'll give you the Pro Tip.

Use a heat gun.

Clean off the surface (no need to even use an abrasive) and then go for it. As you are running the gun over the surface, it makes it look almost wet. After it cools, you lose a little of the wet look, but it stays black. You can re-do it once a year or so and it keeps the stuff looking new. Obviously, take precautions so that you keep the heat fairly diffuse and you don't get more than the surface real hot.

Not sure it would work on the cowl below the windshield, though. Considering it is free, though, I guess I will try it soon.

Considering his flares are off the truck do you think the heat would cause any tweaking that would give him problems putting them back on?

tee-bone · Jun 6, 2013

cj80cruiser said:
Considering his flares are off the truck do you think the heat would cause any tweaking that would give him problems putting them back on?

The key will be making sure that only the surface of the flares get hot. You have to keep moving - with the flares it might be worth doing a section, letting it cool, then another section. If your heat gun is hot enough, you really don't have to focus on any one part all that long. I did the whole rear bumper cover in less than ten minutes.

If there is a little deformation, I guess you could always heat the whole flare up a little prior to re-mounting it.

What is best process to bring back faded SR5 Flares?

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