10-24-2016, 11:03 PM
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#1
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Panhard bar question
So I'm using lc8 wraps in the rear, so should b around 3 inch lift. My question is after alot of research can't find a good awnser besides buy a adjustable one. We'll can't do that right now so what's my other options? What's the proper way to adjust the pan hard bar or know what length it needs to b
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10-24-2016, 11:10 PM
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#2
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Panhard bar question
The proper way is to drop the frame-end mount however many inches down that you have lifted your rig over stock.
Adjustable is nice to dial in your rear alignment, but it is not a solution to lifting the rear.
ToyTec makes an ugly drop bracket. It bolts on to the stock mount, and then your pan hard bolts to that. It also needs to be welded in place to keep it secured.
I haven't found a nice looking pan hard drop bracket, and it's kind of a tough piece to design. It would be fairly complicated to make it look nice, and the time/labor spent building it would likely make it a part that wouldn't sell- due to the high price.
In summery- ToyTec makes the proper part you need.
CORRECTION!
@ eimkeith
makes the proper parts you need. And did a fan-fcking-tastic job of doing so!
Last edited by Tyler James Inc; 01-02-2017 at 07:35 PM.
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10-24-2016, 11:16 PM
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#3
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Well I was thinking about building my own out of plate and lower it but wasn't sure how much to lower it. I figured 3 inch lift I'd drop it 3 inches but not really for sure about it all. This is my first time messing with lifts that have panhard bars
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10-25-2016, 01:39 AM
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#4
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Panhard bar question
I would recommend a panhard lift bracket. It will help correct the panhard alignment and rear end sway. It also helps raise the roll center. If you do the drop bracket it will lower the roll center. If you don't know what roll center is, google it. You almost always want the highest roll center and roll axis you can get. Depending on if you have extended bump stops or not is how much you can raise your panhard on the axle side. I have stock bump stops and lifted my panhard 1.5". I barely hit the crossmember when fully bottomed out on both bump stops. I would say lift it 1" + however much you extend your bump stops. So if you have 3" extended bump stops, then raise your panhard up to 4". I made my own drop bracket when I first did my lift and noticed a huge difference in body roll. Once I cut off my drop bracket and made a lift bracket, it was night and day difference in body roll. Also remember the more you lift or drop the bracket the more you will need to strengthen it. Hope this helps.
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10-25-2016, 06:48 AM
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#5
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Lifting it from the axle in lieu of lowering it from the body will not recenter your axle under the vehicle, which, to my knowledge, is one of the goals in doing the modification to begin with.
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10-25-2016, 08:54 AM
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#6
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It doesn't matter what side you lift or drop. If done correctly it will recenter your axle. Now is the debate about which end is better for your suspension.
If it were me I'd build a z-bend pan adjustable pan hard, and call it a day.
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10-25-2016, 08:58 AM
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#7
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Still find no reason to drop the panhard bar. Lifting the driver side is the way to go as it puts panhard closer to level.
But again I still don't see the reason to do it. With my adjustable rear and 4 tire alignment my rig drives perfect.
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10-25-2016, 09:22 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MStudt
It doesn't matter what side you lift or drop. If done correctly it will recenter your axle. Now is the debate about which end is better for your suspension.
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I stand corrected. Now that I have thought through the geometry of it all I agree that either a lift or a lower will put your axle back in alignment.
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97 4runner SR5 3.4 manual
Tundra/LC Lift with Bilstein 5100's on 285/70/17 BFG KO2
2" "Fat Pats" body lift; 1.25" All Pro wheel spacers
Turbo Build; Rear Bumper Build; Front Bumper Build
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10-25-2016, 09:51 AM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
Still find no reason to drop the panhard bar. Lifting the driver side is the way to go as it puts panhard closer to level.
But again I still don't see the reason to do it. With my adjustable rear and 4 tire alignment my rig drives perfect.
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The problem with just an adjustable panhard bar is it only recenters the axle. It doesn't help level the panhard bar which helps the rear end sway as the suspension cycles. Lifting the panhard as much as possible will actually create even less body roll. I would never recommend doing the drop though. Also the adjustable panhard bar ends up pushing the driveshaft further into the gas tank skid than a lift bracket would.
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10-25-2016, 10:52 AM
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#10
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well i have i toytech panhard bracket laying around if you want to go that way. ill let it go cheap
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10-25-2016, 05:05 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo.Runner
well i have i toytech panhard bracket laying around if you want to go that way. ill let it go cheap
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Message me how much u want for it
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10-26-2016, 03:30 AM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AssBurns
The problem with just an adjustable panhard bar is it only recenters the axle. It doesn't help level the panhard bar which helps the rear end sway as the suspension cycles. Lifting the panhard as much as possible will actually create even less body roll. I would never recommend doing the drop though. Also the adjustable panhard bar ends up pushing the driveshaft further into the gas tank skid than a lift bracket would.
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for the geometry to be back closest to stock why wouldn't you split the difference and do a lift and drop. you could get your panhard almost level which would stop body roll as well as center the axle. Perhaps I don't understand the geometry well enough.
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10-26-2016, 09:57 AM
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#13
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Panhard bar question
That's always an option. An will still keep the roll center about the same if you do both sides equally. I've noticed that most people have to extend their bump stops when they lift, so if you extend your bumps, you'll make more room for more of a lift bracket. This will increase your roll center quite a bit and really stiffen up the body roll. I guess it just depends on whether you've got the room to raise the panhard a few inches or if your stuck with only an inch.
I was running a 3" drop and sway bar in the rear but once I cut off the drop and made the lift, I also removed sway bars. It was a night and day difference in body roll. I haven't even put sway bars back on since the lift bracket.
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10-26-2016, 10:22 AM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AssBurns
That's always an option. An will still keep the roll center about the same if you do both sides equally. I've noticed that most people have to extend their bump stops when they lift, so if you extend your bumps, you'll make more room for more of a lift bracket. This will increase your roll center quite a bit and really stiffen up the body roll. I guess it just depends on whether you've got the room to raise the panhard a few inches or if your stuck with only an inch.
I was running a 3" drop and sway bar in the rear but once I cut off the drop and made the lift, I also removed sway bars. It was a night and day difference in body roll. I haven't even put sway bars back on since the lift bracket.
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Pictures of your lift bracket please.
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1996 Toyota 4runner Limited - 4" Lift, 33's, AOR Bumper w/winch
1990 Eagle Talon Tsi- E316G @ 32psi E85 Tuned, 272 cams, ECMlink v3.0, 405whp - Gave back to Brother
2012 Toyota Tacoma DCSB - Stock on 32's- Wifes
2004 Cadillac CTS-V - 5.7L LS6 v8, 6-speed 400hp/400tq - My new DD
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...read-pics.html
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10-26-2016, 10:44 AM
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#15
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Panhard bar question
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayRolla
Pictures of your lift bracket please.
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I raised mine 1.25" and it just barely touches the crossmember when bottomed out on both bumps. I also still use stock bumps. I think 1" is a safe bet with stock bumps.
You can see where it touches the crossmember
It's off about an 1/8-1/4" to help recenter the axle.
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