Panhard bar question

[AssBurns]

there are three solutions to the gas tank issue. extend the bump stops. or panhard drop. the adjustable panhard. obviously only.extend thd bumps if you habe tire rubbing issues or very very long shocks like 17+ compressed. the panhard drop causes the axle to swing away from the gas tank. adjust your panhard to be shorter to avoid gas tank contact, this is dumb, very very dumb.



my rule of thumb: do a panhard lift bracket 1"+ the size of thd bump stop extension you have. then use panhard drop to make the panhard flat with the ground. no adjustable panhard.



also a zbar doesnf do shit its just marketing to make it look like its flat, suspension links work from point to point not ths path of the link.



also id like to point out that it is important to have a flat panhard bar. when the bar sits flaf your up and down travel has very little side to side movement, the body very midly oscillates from straight to turning right. however as the angle increases so does the side to side movement, and it also induces a change in the thrust angle. when the suspension droops is forces the body to turn right, then under compression it turns left.



interesting tidbit: when thd panhard is flat it averages out to always forcing the truck to turn right, this is because in japan the roads are rhd and when the road is rough that oscillation actually helps you stay on the crowned road just like having more caster on the passenger side does. obviiusly they were lazy and didnt swap the panhadd bar over.

I agree with everything you said except the extended bumps with 17"+ compressed Length shocks. I've ran 15" compressed and they wouldn't hit stock bumps at full compression by almost an inch.
Never thought too much on how the panhard can effect turning. I learn something new every time you post something.


Project BeerRunner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/206385-assburns-2000-limited-build-thread.html

 

[JayRolla]

Has the guy at SS ever addressed the issue of the pan hard banging the gas tank? Ive seen several posts from him on the topic, but not one that addresses this specific issue.

It does not hit anything. You got bad info. Drive shaft hits the tank in full flex situations if running long shocks and coils. this happens stock or with the panhard bar.

 

[killzone90]

So could not extending the pan hard bar cause a vibration in the rear

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[JayRolla]

So could not extending the pan hard bar cause a vibration in the rear

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No. Vibrations in rear are usually tire balancing, wheel bearings, worn out suspension.

 

[killzone90]

Well wheel bearings r new, suspension is new and tires where just balanced and didn't do it befor the lift. Only other thing I can think of is u joint going out

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[JayRolla]

Well wheel bearings r new, suspension is new and tires where just balanced and didn't do it befor the lift. Only other thing I can think of is u joint going out

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Lift the truck up off all 4's. Have someone sit in the driver seat and put it in drive. You can than watch and listen to the rear joint to see if its failing. Also double check upper and lower control arm bushings. Panhard bushings can fail but this should not cause a vibration.

 

[killzone90]

Yea I'm going to check u joints tomorrow. Also going to recheck front end and alignment

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[MarkamisPrime]

Just installed the trac bar drop.
Runner drives like I never lifted it
Night and day difference
I love it.
Definitely going to add an adjustable trac bar or make my own but I can tell the axle is about 1/4in to the right.

 

[JayRolla]

Just installed the trac bar drop.
Runner drives like I never lifted it
Night and day difference
I love it.
Definitely going to add an adjustable trac bar or make my own but I can tell the axle is about 1/4in to the right.

That drop looks huge!! No axle to bar contact when fully flexed?

 

[MarkamisPrime]

That drop looks huge!! No axle to bar contact when fully flexed?

No sir.
Everything clears perfect
It was too dark to take flex shots but will do it this weekend.

 

[DangerousCrew]

This is an interesting topic. I have had a floaty feeling in the rear of my 1997 4runner ever since i purchased it. I have lifted it with the 2" Old Man Emu coils in the rear and installed Icon 57800CP rear shocks. I have a stock panhard bar in the stock location and stock sway bar with stock endlinks. I am interested to see if the Drop mount solved your problem. I think longer swaybar endlinks would also be a benifit.

 

[jkeith.w]

Put full OME kit on my 96 in 2007 - hasn't been floaty (and I wail on it on paved mountain roads, fwiw) - maybe a bad shock pairing for your usage?

 

[DangerousCrew]

Put full OME kit on my 96 in 2007 - hasn't been floaty (and I wail on it on paved mountain roads, fwiw) - maybe a bad shock pairing for your usage?

It might be bad shock paring, I first had Tundra shocks in the rear and it was even more floaty due to the more open damping.

 

[jkeith.w]

It's off about an 1/8-1/4" to help recenter the axle.

wait; why would you need to move the hole that direction? it would seem that the more it was raised, the less you'd have to recenter, yes? -and in the other direction, no?

also, if you didn't have the corner interference could you go significantly higher with the new hole? say a full 2"?

 

[AssBurns]

wait; why would you need to move the hole that direction? it would seem that the more it was raised, the less you'd have to recenter, yes? -and in the other direction, no?

also, if you didn't have the corner interference could you go significantly higher with the new hole? say a full 2"?

You are 100% correct! Haha It wasn't really to recenter, it was to keep the driveshaft from hitting the gas tank skid as much. At first it was offset on accident before I welded it up but decided to keep it that way for driveshaft clearance. Still hit the skid though.


Project BeerRunner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/206385-assburns-2000-limited-build-thread.html

 

[jkeith.w]

if you don't mind, could you measure up from original hole to the top of your bracket? I'm trying to determine the height at the contact point...

(drawing up a weld-on lift bracket, myself)

 

[AssBurns]

if you don't mind, could you measure up from original hole to the top of your bracket? I'm trying to determine the height at the contact point...



(drawing up a weld-on lift bracket, myself)

Looks like 2" almost exactly. I'm sure I could shave that contact point down but i figured I could just let the mount make its own impression on the crossmember. The contact is pretty minimal as you can see.

Project BeerRunner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/206385-assburns-2000-limited-build-thread.html

 

[jkeith.w]

Cool, thanks!

So something like this (where the corner is at 2") might work then:

I've got the hole 2" up from the factory one in that model, btw. I'm going to print one and see if I can get it to fit up acceptably well on a spare axle.

Judging by your flexed photo, the angled shoulder might work?


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[AssBurns]

Cool, thanks!

So something like this (where the corner is at 2") might work then:

I've got the hole 2" up from the factory one in that model, btw. I'm going to print one and see if I can get it to fit up acceptably well on a spare axle.

Judging by your flexed photo, the angled shoulder might work?


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That looks like it might work. I haven't had any issues when flexed, only at full compression on both sides. I'd try mocking it up on your vehicle with the coils removed and sitting at full bump. That way you can fine tune the height. I was too lazy to do that when I made mine.


Project BeerRunner - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/206385-assburns-2000-limited-build-thread.html

 

[jkeith.w]

I haven't had any issues when flexed, only at full compression on both sides. I'd try mocking it up on your vehicle with the coils removed and sitting at full bump. That way you can fine tune the height.

Gotcha - good idea.


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