DIY: Replace door courtesy / door jamb switch (fix door ajar light and door sensor)

andrewbares

New member
The door courtesy switch is SO EASY to replace, takes only 15 minutes! So hopefully if you have a faulty door open light showing up, it's because of the courtesy switch (the switch that detects whether the door is closed... if it's something further in your wiring, I can't help you there.



Faulty door courtesy switches can also lead to your car re-locking itself after unlocking as some people have mentioned in the comments, so this can be even more important than just an annoyance (for example, someone unlocked their car, tossed their bag in, walked away, and after a minute, the car relocked itself, since the car thought no one opened the doors!)

A few people have also mentioned in the comments that you can simply clean your switch to fix it, here's a YouTube video about cleaning someone suggested.

Determining if the door courtesy switch is causing your door light to appear
Open a door one-by-one and locate the door courtesy switch - a little rubber knobby thing right where the door shuts onto the body of the vehicle. Try pressing it with your finger. Does your door light go off? That sensor's probably good. Try all of them - it's most likely that your driver door is faulty. In my case, just pressing it with my finger I could feel that something was wrong with it. It pressed in all janky, and sure enough depending on how I pressed it, I could make the light go off, or always stay on, etc.

Buy the part from Toyota
It's now called a "courtesy" switch, it used to be called a door jamb switch. The new part is part # 84231-32040. It costed $35.56 + tax from my Toyota dealership, you could probably get it much cheaper aftermarket or buying from a Toyota online parts store (although then you'd have to pay shipping). A few people have mentioned aftermarket switches seem to only last a year if placed in a commonly used door.

Remove and replace the switch! 15 minutes total.

Make space to access the pillar column on the interior of the car. Slide your driver's seat forward and lean it forward. Leave both driver's and back door open so you can access the door pillar trimming.



Pull off the door pillar trimming. Start from the top, and pull from the sides of the top. There will be three push-pins that pop out. That'll give you enough space to access the plug.




Unplug the old switch. There's a release lever on the top side of the plug, and it's pretty easy to pull out after you press that lever. Easiest switch I've unplugged!



Go to the outside of the vehicle, open your driver's door, and re-locate that rubber door jamb switch.



Pull the rubber up from the bottom. The bottom half of the rubber pulls up and flips up to reveal a bolt.



Unscrew the bolt with a 10mm socket.

Pull the switch out, while watching from the inside to see how the wire threads through the inside so you know how to replace it.

Thread the new switch's wire through that same path. You might have to bend the cable a bit to first slide it through the hole. Then insert the switch completely once wire pulled through.

Screw back on the switch. I just screwed it on tight.

From the inside, plug the new switch in.

Push back on the panel, all three pins should pop back in.

Done!
 
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awesome write up, thank you. Have to replace that. Auto lock thinks my driver's side door doesn't open and it relocks itself. Took me a couple hours to pin point it but I think I found it. Your write up and pics will definitely help me.
 
Great write up, I too am having an issue with the door ajar light flickering. I think it may be my rear hatch door, but I will check all around just to be sure once I get some free time.
 
Nice write-up, good work.

For those of us who have an itch to see how things work and if they're repairable-
though I've at least gotten to the point where I at least limit it to (mostly) non-working things-
I learned there's precious little to the switch itself:
80-doorjambswitch007_zps187b4b67_24a60be3f45b67bbd68f5e7f425fb7f7821c3ee9.jpg


80-doorjambswitch013_zps7712d86b_ef67d49751e64622b11c3d2a3a82ef5de3f92949.jpg


With mine the problem with it was the same as with the blower switch, worn contacts. I cleaned them up and bent the contact out slightly, plus flipped it so the less worn side was now the contact. It's been 4 years and good to go so far.

I managed to take it apart without cutting any fingers, but the possibility is there. Take off just enough off the plastic stubs to get it apart. Snapping the pieces back together plus installing the switch will keep it together once you're done.
 
Just an FYI.


Standard Motor Products DS863 Door Jamb Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C7USGM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_zWaQAb8NDGM87


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the link. I actually got mine from McGeorge online parts cheaper. They have reasonable prices compared to the other stealerships.
https://parts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oe...0cnVubmVyJnk9MTk5OSZ0PXNyNSZlPTMtNGwtdjYtZ2Fz

That's the link if anyone is interested.

It took less than 5 min to install with the writeup.
 
Nice write-up, good work.

For those of us who have an itch to see how things work and if they're repairable-
though I've at least gotten to the point where I at least limit it to (mostly) non-working things-
I learned there's precious little to the switch itself:
80-doorjambswitch007_zps187b4b67_24a60be3f45b67bbd68f5e7f425fb7f7821c3ee9.jpg


80-doorjambswitch013_zps7712d86b_ef67d49751e64622b11c3d2a3a82ef5de3f92949.jpg


With mine the problem with it was the same as with the blower switch, worn contacts. I cleaned them up and bent the contact out slightly, plus flipped it so the less worn side was now the contact. It's been 4 years and good to go so far.

I managed to take it apart without cutting any fingers, but the possibility is there. Take off just enough off the plastic stubs to get it apart. Snapping the pieces back together plus installing the switch will keep it together once you're done.

I sure did pull the rubber off to take a peek inside. I kept the old one. I will definitely have to pull it apart and fix it. Nothing wrong with having a spare. The one I bought was $14.47 and $8 shipping. Stealership wanted $39 and would still have to be ordered. Saved a couple bucks.

Thanks for the write up. That's really handy to know to fix the old one and to have when the next switch says good night!!
 
Another problem area with these is poor grounding (through the attach screw). In my case, all I had to do was remove and reinstall the mounting screw, and the switches have been perfect ever since.

As an interesting aside, these switches can cause more of a problem than just not turning on the dome light. Both of my passenger side switches were acting up, and I didn't care too much until I almost got very burned last week.

I unlocked the doors using the remote, opened the passenger door, threw in my bag, closed the door, and started walking over to the driver side to get in. That's when I heard a click, and all the doors locked! That's because the passenger switch didn't activate and the ECU didn't sense anyone opening the doors, thus relocking the doors. Fortunately I had my keys in my pocket and not in my bag - otherwise I would have been locked out.
 
Can you add manual switch to the courtesy lights and still have everything work properly? How would you do that? Thanks

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
 
an old thread, but I have to add 3 things.
1) a funky working door jamb switch will mess with your electric locks
2) I did use an aftermarket one for a short while...it lasted less than a year
3) if you do get an aftermarket one, think about putting it at the least used door and take the factory one from that door and put it where you need it...most likely the drivers door
 
Faulty Contacts May Also be One Cause of "Ghost Locking"

Like 3Bears, I've experienced "ghost locking" in my 2001 SR5. 216k miles, original owner. Had this problem and even replaced ECU and door lock actuator this past spring. Seemed okay until just a few days ago when ... blammo... there it went again, this time with a vengeance. Seems like it always happens during wet/cool weather. Previously also associated with "ghost alarm" (OEM security). Last time it was this wet in Denver was March. In any event... Last night after reading some advice on FB (3rd Gen Mafia) I checked the contact switches on the pillars for all 4 of the doors and hatch and put dielectric grease on them. I also changed the battery in the key fob. Note after pulling the rubber boot to expose the switch, i noticed there was a TON of lint and debris \and I also removed a lot of build up grease from the latches opposite on the door jamb. I am really hoping this very inexpensive $10 attempt did the trick. If not, I'm seeing the contacts on Amazon from $17 to $34 each. Offering this for those who are being told to replace ECU/Actuator this could be a fix.
 
Looks like this is my issue since my 4Runner always detects the doors open when it's actually not. My fob doesn't lock the doors. Thanks for the writeup.
 
Anyone have an issue with the bolt spinning? I'm trying to do a rear passenger switch but the bolt won't come out, just spins. You can BARELY see down inside (certainly not enough to get a tool in there) but you can see there's no nut holding it, and nothing on the inside is spinning with the bolt. Very confused here
 
I recently overhauled all 4 switches out and cleaned them good which got them all working 100%. 1st tip: repair them instead of buying new ones. As for the bolt, I had no issues removing and installing all 4 bolts back into the truck. It should just unscrew out no problem so this might be the case of someone from the past who might've screwed up something.
 
I recently overhauled all 4 switches out and cleaned them good which got them all working 100%. 1st tip: repair them instead of buying new ones. As for the bolt, I had no issues removing and installing all 4 bolts back into the truck. It should just unscrew out no problem so this might be the case of someone from the past who might've screwed up something.
Was wondering if you had any additional pics or steps you took to take apart? I'm seeing myself losing that spring across my garage...
 
I recently overhauled all 4 switches out and cleaned them good which got them all working 100%. 1st tip: repair them instead of buying new ones. As for the bolt, I had no issues removing and installing all 4 bolts back into the truck. It should just unscrew out no problem so this might be the case of someone from the past who might've screwed up something.

Nah, it's clearly never been touched before. It was strange, it initially felt tight before backing off like it should, but then it just spun both ways and wouldn't go tight again. Unless Toyota cross threaded it from the factory or something
 

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