Oil Change 5th Gen: How To- LOTS of PICS!

mteolus · Oct 26, 2019

ElectroBoy said:
I performed my first oil change using the ValvoMax that I installed a few months ago. I’ve checked on it occasionally to make sure it did not leak. Not a drop.

I connected a longer hose to the mating drain tool fitting and drained the oil right into two one-gallon jugs. At stock height and no ramps there’s not much room underneath so I had to position them just right. Due to the small diameter of the ValvoMax the oil drains slowly. After one gallon jug was almost full I pinched the tube and moved it to the second jug for the remaining 2+ quarts.

Using the MotivX oil filter drain tool was a snap. Just screw the fitting into the filter drain and pipe the oil into the gallon jug. No mess and no plastic drain thingy to deal with. However, removing the actual filter housing is a little messy with some drippage, so have a drain bucket and paper towels handy.

After removing and cleaning up the plastic oil filter housing I removed the longer perforated tube and installed it into a new metal filter housing. New filter, new gaskets, and everything fits well.

After refilling the oil I left the skid plate off for a day and made sure there were no leaks around the new filter housing. Looking good!

Did you get that MotivX oil filter drain tool at an auto parts store or on-line. Amazon doesn't have just the drain tool, you have to get the wrench with it too. There is another Chinese brand on Amazon that does the same thing. JDT Drain Tool

RockyM · Oct 26, 2019

Just finished my first 4Runner oil change this morning. A bit more fuss than a spin on filter but overall not too bad. I did use the Motivx filter housing drain tool. And replaced the plastic filter housing with the metal housing. :whoo:

The only issue I have is the oil is so clear (Amsoil 0W20) I can't get a clear reading on the dip stick. Literally cannot tell how much oil is in there. :shrug:

RockyM · Oct 26, 2019

mteolus said:
Did you get that MotivX oil filter drain tool at an auto parts store or on-line. Amazon doesn't have just the drain tool, you have to get the wrench with it too. There is another Chinese brand on Amazon that does the same thing. JDT Drain Tool

FWIW I used the JDT tool. Works fine and seems to be of good quality.

mteolus · Oct 26, 2019

headpaneer said:
Can you post some photos of the Napa part? Curious to see how it compares to the OEM housing.

You can just tell the Toyota one is better quality by the pics. I think the big issue with this one is the threads may be too thin. Who knows, it leaked and was a piss off.

ElectroBoy · Oct 27, 2019

mteolus said:
Did you get that MotivX oil filter drain tool at an auto parts store or on-line. Amazon doesn't have just the drain tool, you have to get the wrench with it too. There is another Chinese brand on Amazon that does the same thing. JDT Drain Tool

I got my drain tool on eBay. But it’s actually the same price on their website.
Oil Filter Drain Tool for Toyota, Lexus, Scion 2.0L - 5.7L Engines - Motivx Tools

ElectroBoy · Oct 27, 2019

RockyM said:
Just finished my first 4Runner oil change this morning. A bit more fuss than a spin on filter but overall not too bad. I did use the Motivx filter housing drain tool. And replaced the plastic filter housing with the metal housing. :whoo:

The only issue I have is the oil is so clear (Amsoil 0W20) I can't get a clear reading on the dip stick. Literally cannot tell how much oil is in there. :shrug:

Yeah. I put in 6.0 quarts then checked the dipstick about 10 times to calibrate my technique for reading the level. Then added a few ounces until it reached about 6.5 quarts. One side of the dipstick seems to always get smeared with oil no matter what you do.

kenwilliams0803 · Oct 27, 2019

RockyM said:
Just finished my first 4Runner oil change this morning. A bit more fuss than a spin on filter but overall not too bad. I did use the Motivx filter housing drain tool. And replaced the plastic filter housing with the metal housing. :whoo:

The only issue I have is the oil is so clear (Amsoil 0W20) I can't get a clear reading on the dip stick. Literally cannot tell how much oil is in there. :shrug:

Give it a day or two and you will. As long as you put at least 6 qts in there it's not running dry. And as said above, make sure you look at both sides of the dipstick. One side does tend to get smeared with oil and look wrong sometimes.

Antman · Oct 27, 2019

RockyM said:
Just finished my first 4Runner oil change this morning. A bit more fuss than a spin on filter but overall not too bad. I did use the Motivx filter housing drain tool. And replaced the plastic filter housing with the metal housing. :whoo:

The only issue I have is the oil is so clear (Amsoil 0W20) I can't get a clear reading on the dip stick. Literally cannot tell how much oil is in there. :shrug:

Take some sandpaper and rough up the end of the dipstick. You can read it easily then.

BadTrainDriver · Oct 27, 2019

Antman said:
Take some sandpaper and rough up the end of the dipstick. You can read it easily then.

^This man has changed some oil in his lifetime.

RockyM · Oct 27, 2019

Antman said:
Take some sandpaper and rough up the end of the dipstick. You can read it easily then.

I'll try this :thumb3:

And it doesn't help my eye sight gets worse by the day. :nerd:

rageandlove · Oct 29, 2019

OK oil change people. This was my gift from the dealer this weekend when they gave me a free oil change (1 year at 7k miles) (in addition to getting oil all over my RCI skids):

Note the tab is past the line on the metal casing.

Is that the kind of thing that's going to make it really hard to get off in a year when its time for the next one, or not too bad?

Hammer0313 · Oct 29, 2019

RockyM said:
Just finished my first 4Runner oil change this morning. A bit more fuss than a spin on filter but overall not too bad. I did use the Motivx filter housing drain tool. And replaced the plastic filter housing with the metal housing. :whoo:

The only issue I have is the oil is so clear (Amsoil 0W20) I can't get a clear reading on the dip stick. Literally cannot tell how much oil is in there. :shrug:

Just did my 1st oil change last night, I went with Amsoil 0w20 also. I was surprised how much tiny metal shavings were in the bottom of the housing. Only has 2300 miles on it but still interesting to see. I lubed up the new gasket Very well but as I tightened it up it seemed to get very dry; anyone else notice this?

Hammer0313 · Oct 29, 2019

rageandlove said:
OK oil change people. This was my gift from the dealer this weekend when they gave me a free oil change (1 year at 7k miles) (in addition to getting oil all over my RCI skids):

Note the tab is past the line on the metal casing.

Is that the kind of thing that's going to make it really hard to get off in a year when its time for the next one, or not too bad?

Just did my first change last night and that’s Exactly where my metal tab ended up. And from factory it was in about the same location.

wsgoat · Oct 29, 2019

Hammer0313 said:
Just did my first change last night and that’s Exactly where my metal tab ended up. And from factory it was in about the same location.

My tab was lined up exactly at the indicator from the factory. I don't torque my housing, I simply align the tab to the indicator on the last turn and I'm done. The dealership is the last place I'd have my oil changed....just too many horror stories.

Hammer0313 · Oct 29, 2019

wsgoat said:
My tab was lined up exactly at the indicator from the factory. I don't torque my housing, I simply align the tab to the indicator on the last turn and I'm done. The dealership is the last place I'd have my oil changed....just too many horror stories.

Hmmmm... That’s interesting, I went about a quarter inch past the tab on the housing and I had a slight leak. I had to tighten it up about 3/4 to 1’’ inch to get it to stop seeping oil.
Where is everyone’ tab at?

1000MPH · Oct 29, 2019

In 2010 mine looked like this from the factory...and that's as far as it goes when I re-install it to correct torque.
You can try backing it off, it's not going to cause a leak with that type of o-ring seal.

31239d1280089849-recommendation-oil-changes-img_2203_8_1_1-jpg

rageandlove · Oct 30, 2019

1000MPH said:
In 2010 mine looked like this from the factory...and that's as far as it goes when I re-install it to correct torque.
You can try backing it off, it's not going to cause a leak with that type of o-ring seal.

Thanks. I think for now I will let sleeping dogs lie. It's not leaking and there is fresh oil in the engine. I just read another thread about people who had the cover fail when trying to remove one over-tightened, and that's not fun I need right now.

At Christmas when work is a bit slower and I have a few days off, I'll probably re-do the oil change to make sure it's done right and put on a fumoto valve while I'm at it. And if I have any problems with cracked cap etc., that gives me time to sort it out when I don't need to drive.

Plus, since I drive less than 10k a year, I will have a new annual Christmas tradition. Oil change and egg nog.

Nuke · Oct 30, 2019

rageandlove said:
... I will have a new annual Christmas tradition. Oil change and egg nog.

Just be sure to remember which fluid goes where. :cheers:

Hammer0313 · Oct 30, 2019

Has anyone seen damage to the inner perforated tube due to over tightening the oil filter housing?

Jivewalker · Oct 30, 2019

Torque mine to 18lbs every time and never had an issue. My tab goes at least an inch past the pointer, always has. I torque the small cap at the bottom once the oring is aligned correctly to 10lbs. Never had any issues with leaks. Also, I use a cheap (Pennzoil I think) oil filter wrench without issue. It cost me $9.

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