'02 4Runner Stuck in 4WD - May need a New T-Case

Rock Slide

Senior Member
Driving down the road, I depress the Multi Mode 4wd button on the shifter to lock into 4HI, 4wd indicator starts blinking...but I never hear the "clunk" as normal when the 4wd engages. The 4wd indicator just keeps blinking. Granted the truck did shift into 4wd, it's the just the indicator light will not stop blinking and stay lit. Then I depressed the M/M button later to release 4HI and go back to 2HI, but the lights still continue to blink and the truck is still in 4HI.

I live close by a dealer and know the lead tech well enough that he'll shoot me straight free of charge (we've been friends since way back). Called him up and said they've have two '02s come in over the last month that had the actuator in the t-case go out.

Dropped it off with him this am. He called to say all the switches/sensors were good and was able to trick truck back into 2wd as other have mentioned doing. Said it is in fact the actuator in the t-case that's gone bad. Bummer. Said I'd either have to replace the actuator in the tcase or just replace the tcase.

I've done some research on this and the actuator in the tcase seems to fail more frequently on '01-'02 4Runners than on '99-'00 4Runners. (in most cases you can get by with just replacing one of the transfer switches/sensors in the earlier 3rd gens to fix the problem for cheap.) Guess I'll just have to keep it in 2wd until I can save some money up and get a used t-case. Bummer.
 
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Hey man sorry to hear about your problem, im actuallly going through the same issue. ive been waiting for a month now on the transmission shop to order a used acutator for me. I have a 99 limited pushed button 4wd. I know you werent asking for advice but if at all possible go for a used one they are much much cheaper than a brand new one.
 
Wow, that sucks. There's a thread that was started a few years ago on YT (and still going) due to this very thing on pre '01 models. I posted there too. Although, '01-'02 models always seem to have the actuator in the tcase go, earlier models seem to get by w/ just a sensor or two. Stinks you were not that fortunate.

Oh yes, def going the used route. New oem tcase is approx $4,300.00. To tear down the tcase and install the actuator, is approx $2,100.00. Neither of which I'm willing to do (I've bought complete used 3.4L motors for $900.00). I plan on looking at the local salvage yards in the coming weeks and asking local toy guys to see what I can find.

I've been told the actuator in the tcase, even when purchased online, is approx $800.00 new. Wow that part is $$.
 
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I know you said the switches were good, but i would still change out the two switches mentioned in the link.

4WD won't disengage on 99 4Runner LTD - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums

I was told my actuator was bad too. 100 bucks later and two switches gave me perfect 4wd.

I agree 100%. Same diagnosis on my rig... busted actuator, but in reality the switches were the fix.


I agree. I probably will replace them in the coming weeks just for peace of mind. Granted, as I mentioned above, the '01-'02 4Runners have a bit of a different design, but still way cheaper to replace a few suspect switches than a used tcase in any event. Just because the switches tested ok, doesn't mean they're 100%.

I'll keep everyone posted.
 
I know this is an old thread

I know this is an old thread but do you remember how your mechanic friend "tricked" the vehicle back into 2wd? This exact same thing is happening to my '02 and I just need to get it into 2wd for now.
 
To wake up an old thread again...

Just bought a 2001 4Runner Sport 4wd, with 244k on the clock. Runs perfectly, but does need some servicing. Had never put in 4wd before, but about a week ago just clicked the 4wd button on the side of the shifter in and then out, to see what it did--and never drove it.

Fast forward a week later, started it up to move, and the 4wd light was blinking on the dash, and when I turned right it was grinding. Never made a peep before. Just had to move it down the street a bit, and forward and left, fine. But turning right was harder, and it still grinds.

Seemed to be stuck "trying" to engage, but can't. Then after a minute both the VSC & Traction lights kicked on as well as the Check Engine light, and 4wd still flashing. Did off, on, off, on. Went forwards different speeds then backwards. Still the same.

Sounds like a similar issue to everyone else maybe with just an actuator switch, but why the grinding, CEL & other lights kicking on, and what else might be up? Still drivable, but you want to avoid turning right to skip the grading gears feel & sound.

Ideas?
 
The 'grinding' maybe the center diff is locked and trying to turn on a hard surface causes that. Did you depress the diff lock on the dash also? If so, depress that a few seconds so it unlocks.

Not having been placed into 4wd for long periods causes the blinking and so forth. Mind did the same thing until I used it over and over, now it engages/disengages with ease. Changing the tcase and diff fluids may help get it there faster. Luck.
 
The 'grinding' maybe the center diff is locked and trying to turn on a hard surface causes that. Did you depress the diff lock on the dash also? If so, depress that a few seconds so it unlocks.

Not having been placed into 4wd for long periods causes the blinking and so forth. Mind did the same thing until I used it over and over, now it engages/disengages with ease. Changing the tcase and diff fluids may help get it there faster. Luck.

So having spent some time doing this, we've changed both the front and rear actuator switches (mentioned elsewhere) with new Toyota parts. Changed the fluid more than once.

Still continues to blink, and grind when turning right, as it's "kinda engaged". We've worked for a long time over a month on it (thankfully I have another car, and my neighbor is a Toyota whisperer, ha, doing all the work) but it still will not disengage.

What else is next?
 
The only other item I could even think of...

When I bought it, the previous owner told me the fuel inlet charcoal canister needed to be replaced, as it was overfilled a few times and it won't let you easily fill up without clicking the pump off.

Completely unrelated, but he had said that was causing an emissions issue that triggered the 4wd to not engage properly. It would cause the CEL and VSC lights to come on once in a while, then I could get them off with a battery reset. Passed inspection fine then.

We've been baffled for over a month now, as new actuator switches, fluids, etc haven't done the trick.
 
I'm running into 4wd problems on my 02 right now and feel your pain. Well I don't know exactly how much mine will end up being so i guess I just feel the frustration
 
Question 1: How many posts do I have to have before I can start a new thread?

Question B: Has anyone encountered issues where sometimes 4wd works just fine, and others where it won't go into or come out of 4wd?

I bought my sister's old 2001 SR5 from her a few weeks ago (she bought a 2017 SR5) and have been using it as a DD to keep miles off my truck. Last summer she asked me to show her how to use the 4wd system, so we drove down the street to a dirt lot and I told her to press the 4wd button on the side of the shifter (H4F). The 4wd indicator lights started blinking and never quit until I crawled up under it and tapped the front diff actuator with a hammer and socket extension while she pressed the 4wd button. That freed it up and I told her not to mess with 4wd until the front diff actuator was replaced.

Well, fast forward to today and I decided to go mess with the 4wd system for a few minutes to see what exactly it does, and to see if the center diff lock would engage (we hadn't tried that last year). Surprisingly, it went into and came out of 4Hi, center diff locked with no trouble. Same for 4L,locked. So I tried 4H again and got flashy lights before I could get the center diff locked. Shifting into and out of 4H and 4L and transmission in and out of drive would sometimes get everything engaged and disengaged, sometimes it wouldn't. Eventually it got to the point where it wouldn't come out of 4wd, but the center diff lock seems to work like it should. I turned the car off to go inside and get ramps and a hammer to tap on the front diff actuator, and when I started it back up and drove it up on the ramps, the 4wd indicator turned off and everything appears to be in 2H.

I can hear relays firing under the driver's side kick panel and clunks from the transfer case (usually) but the 4wd function is intermittent. Reading through some of the threads linked in this one, it sounds like the 4wd system either works or it doesn't, but I haven't seen anyone talk about intermittent function.

Anyone got any insight? I'm going to go back outside in a minute and mess with it some more to keep better track of the order in which things happen to see if I can isolate what makes it work and what doesn't.



Sorry for the novel....
 
Question 1: How many posts do I have to have before I can start a new thread?

Question B: Has anyone encountered issues where sometimes 4wd works just fine, and others where it won't go into or come out of 4wd?

I bought my sister's old 2001 SR5 from her a few weeks ago (she bought a 2017 SR5) and have been using it as a DD to keep miles off my truck. Last summer she asked me to show her how to use the 4wd system, so we drove down the street to a dirt lot and I told her to press the 4wd button on the side of the shifter (H4F). The 4wd indicator lights started blinking and never quit until I crawled up under it and tapped the front diff actuator with a hammer and socket extension while she pressed the 4wd button. That freed it up and I told her not to mess with 4wd until the front diff actuator was replaced.

Well, fast forward to today and I decided to go mess with the 4wd system for a few minutes to see what exactly it does, and to see if the center diff lock would engage (we hadn't tried that last year). Surprisingly, it went into and came out of 4Hi, center diff locked with no trouble. Same for 4L,locked. So I tried 4H again and got flashy lights before I could get the center diff locked. Shifting into and out of 4H and 4L and transmission in and out of drive would sometimes get everything engaged and disengaged, sometimes it wouldn't. Eventually it got to the point where it wouldn't come out of 4wd, but the center diff lock seems to work like it should. I turned the car off to go inside and get ramps and a hammer to tap on the front diff actuator, and when I started it back up and drove it up on the ramps, the 4wd indicator turned off and everything appears to be in 2H.

I can hear relays firing under the driver's side kick panel and clunks from the transfer case (usually) but the 4wd function is intermittent. Reading through some of the threads linked in this one, it sounds like the 4wd system either works or it doesn't, but I haven't seen anyone talk about intermittent function.

Anyone got any insight? I'm going to go back outside in a minute and mess with it some more to keep better track of the order in which things happen to see if I can isolate what makes it work and what doesn't.



Sorry for the novel....


Well, I have some updates on this. I went outside and tried to run through all combinations of 4wd modes and took notes on what I did.

Trying to get 4Hi, center diff unlocked:
If the vehicle is stopped, AT in drive, it will not ever engage. Turning 4Hi off usually will work, but once I had to shift AT to neutral to get back to 2wd.

If the vehicle is rolling, AT in drive, it will sometimes engage if I shift AT to N while vehicle is still rolling. No issues switching back to 2wd.

Trying to get 4Hi, center diff locked:
With the vehicle rolling, AT in drive, it usually will will switch in and out of 4Hi with center diff locked ok. Once it would not go into 4Hi or back to 2wd until I shifted the AT from D to N and back to D.

Trying to get 4Lo, center diff unlocked/unlocked:
Usually works as long as long as vehicle is rolling. Sometimes it didn't want to shift back to 2wd until I shifted the AT from D to N to D.

Observations:
I managed to get the vehicle stopped in a sweet spot, with AT in N, where I could shift through all modes without trouble at all. I mean, no issue whatsoever. I went from 4Hi, CD locked to 2hi ten or eleven times, same with 4Lo, CD locked. It seemed like all the gears and splines were perfectly aligned and it shifted smoothly in that spot. As soon as I shifted AT back to D and moved the vehicle, I had to sometimes shift the AT in and out of N/D to get 4wd or 2wd. Always a pretty stiff clunk from the drivetrain whenever it finally drops into whatever mode I'm after. Center diff lock did not malfunction at all. This leads me to believe that all the actuators and switches work, but maybe one of the 4wd actuators is getting weak? It is a 16 year old vehicle, after all.

I also noticed that sometimes when I was having trouble shifting to or from 4wd, a few seconds after getting into one mode or the other I'd get a weird buzzing noise from under the dash somewhere and then a small clunk from the transfer case. No idea what that is.

I should add that I did not crawl up under the vehicle and turn the front driveshaft by hand or try to turn the vehicle to "feel" if it's in 4wd. It's raining and I don't feel like driving out of the city to find some dirt so I can drive in circles. I don't know if it ever truly was in 4wd, but the indicator light said it was and I got some pretty solid clunks out of the drivetrain, so stuff was happening.


tl;dr: 4hi/4lo, center diff lock will always eventually work, just have to be rolling and shift transmission in and out of gear a couple times if 4wd doesn't want to cooperate.


Anyway, if anyone has experienced this or has any insight on what might be going on here, I'd love to hear it.

Thanks for reading my dissertation on how my 4wd works, haha.
 
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Hey there,

I've been going over numerous posts trying to troubleshoot my problem, but I'm hitting a wall. Just to clarify, my vehicle is a 2000 4Runner equipped with the "I" transfer case, which means the manual 4L but High 4 and the center locker are electronic.

I've meticulously tested the actuator—it's in good shape. I've also checked all the buttons inside for continuity, and they're functioning fine. The Transfer Case Switch seems to be working as well. Despite all this, I'm still stumped. The one component I haven't been able to inspect thoroughly is the front differential actuator, mainly because of its tricky accessibility.

When I removed the actuator cover on the transfer case, I could disengage it from 4x4, and the indicator lights turn off upon reassembly. However, the issue arises when I attempt to engage all-wheel drive using the 4x4 knob—it engages and locks my center differential, but the blinking light persists. I have to manually disengage it by taking off the actuator cover and rotating the wheel to pull out the shaft from the transfer case.

I've even tested the motor with a 12v power source, and it seems to be functioning properly, with no signs of mud or debris.

I'm at a loss here. Could it possibly be the 4x4 module that the 2000 4Runners have? Any suggestions on what steps I should take next?
 

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