[03 T4R] JBL OEM Stereo broke; looking for ideas on replacing entire system

[thegardentool]

Well my 6-disc JBL Headunit will no longer play discs so I'm looking into replacing it. I think I found the aftermarket unit I want to use, Alpine IVE-W535HD, but I'm curious about a few other things.

I know if I decide to keep the rest of the JBL pieces I'll need something like the PAC TATO or the Metra Harness. Considering what the other options might be to go ahead and replace the entire setup.

I saw Alpine has a small 4x45m RMS channel amp , the KTP-445U. If I removed the center speaker I'd imagine I would have enough room under the dash to mount it. Then I might be able to also use a mono channel amp in the stock location correct? Question on that would be can I hook up an aftermarket amp to the stock power, ground, wires running back to the head unit?

I suppose the other option is a 5 channel amp, but all the systems I've seen end up mounting it under one of the front seats. Would a 5 channel amp fit in the stock location and would it stay cool enough?

I'd probably try to keep components in the front but probably just coaxial speakers in the rear doors. Either disconnect the very rear tweeters or remove them if I can find some of the little blind-spot mirrors to put there.

Am I on the right track? I only have experience in replacing headunits and speakers, no amps or sub installs.

I guess it might also be wise just to start small replacing the headunit only at first. Those adapters aren't too expensive while I figure out a plan for the rest of the stuff. Just means I would have to remove the stereo again at some point later but time to do it all at once may not be on my side for a while anyway.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

The space behind the radio where the center channel is way too small to fit an amp. I fit a JL amp in the stock location with a bit of cutting, I'm sure you could fit a small 4 channel back there if you get a digital one, or you could try and mount it somewhere else under the back panel.

 

[Offroader5]

Very small mono sub amp that should fit easily into the OEM amp location:
Massive Audio B2 - Mono Block Digital » Massive Audio

And they have a very small 4 channel to go along with it that's exactly the same size:
Massive Audio BX4 - 4 Channel Digital » Massive Audio

You could fit these almost anywhere.

I don't know this for certain, only going off what I've heard (I changed out everything and ran new cables for all of it). From what I gather, the HU is connected to the OEM amp/processor with just a couple signal wires. All the speaker wires that run to the doors & the sub exit from the amp. You could tap into the power/ground that goes into the OEM amp and re-use for the new amp...but I don't know that they'd be large enough gauge to provide the amperage the amp would need.

If you wanted to only do the HU right now and not have to take it back out when you continue on with the rest...just buy all of the RCA patch cables you need and plug them into the back of the HU when you install it. At the same time, run a wire extension for the "remote" wire from the back of the HU and just leave these RCA's and remote wires coiled and tied up under the dash on the passenger side or something.

 

[thegardentool]

Yeah after thinking more about that Alpine amp, I think the money would be better spent on a 5 channel to put under a seat or at least a more powerful 4 channel with a seperate amp for the sub.

I think for now I'm just going to go with the IVE-535HD since the headunit is my prime problem right now. And hopefully I'm understanding this right but I will need to order a harness to plug it into the JBL system and another harness to retain steering wheel controls? And if I want to be able to access the setup without being parked I would need a bypass harness too? And does the JBL need a trim piece?

97BlackAckCL, I ran across an older thread of yours on an Acura forum that you chronicled replacing all the speakers in your (old JBL?) setup. I don't think I ever saw the completed part. How did you end up powering the speakers? If you ended up keeping them on the JBL...how did they sound? I've heard that amp doesn't provide that much power to the speakers and I've read differing accounts of going from the 2 Ohm stock to 4 Ohm aftermarket speakers affecting sound quality and loudness. I've been thinking about using some Alpine Type-S speakers as well.

At some point I will need to get back to the A/C controller to repair it (lights burnt out) but I don't think I'll have time when I do the stereo. So it shouldn't be a problem to take it back out in the future to redo wiring, etc.

 

[Offroader5]

The very first thing I did was replace only the HU and I needed both the JBL integration and steering control boxes. I forget what brands & models they were, but I ordered my HU from Crutchfield and they had both of the integration boxes. Take a look at their site and input your vehicle and they should tell you which integration system you'll need.

"Access the setup without being parked"? Are you talking about playing a DVD while the vehicle is in motion? Most HU's that have this "safety" feature only have one wire that you are supposed to connect to the "park circuit" or something like that...but in reality, all it's doing is completing (grounding) the circuit when the car is in park. So, all you have to do is ground the wire and everything on the HU should work even when you're in drive. My HU had this wire and I just loosened a small bolt that was near the fuse panel that is used to hold a piece of the dash into the vehicle (sheetmetal) and used it to ground the wire.

...And hopefully I'm understanding this right but I will need to order a harness to plug it into the JBL system and another harness to retain steering wheel controls? And if I want to be able to access the setup without being parked I would need a bypass harness too? And does the JBL need a trim piece?

 

[thegardentool]

"Access the setup without being parked"? Are you talking about playing a DVD while the vehicle is in motion? Most HU's that have this "safety" feature only have one wire that you are supposed to connect to the "park circuit" or something like that...but in reality, all it's doing is completing (grounding) the circuit when the car is in park. So, all you have to do is ground the wire and everything on the HU should work even when you're in drive. My HU had this wire and I just loosened a small bolt that was near the fuse panel that is used to hold a piece of the dash into the vehicle (sheetmetal) and used it to ground the wire.

Yeah or playing a DVD. I was referring to the sound setup menu, which is also blocked on this HU. Not that I think I would need to adjust the fade, balance, etc while driving but I guess you never know. Good to hear it's easy enough to do for free too. Not sure how the adapter I ran across did it, but it was $20; so that's $20 saved.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Yeah after thinking more about that Alpine amp, I think the money would be better spent on a 5 channel to put under a seat or at least a more powerful 4 channel with a seperate amp for the sub.

I think for now I'm just going to go with the IVE-535HD since the headunit is my prime problem right now. And hopefully I'm understanding this right but I will need to order a harness to plug it into the JBL system and another harness to retain steering wheel controls? And if I want to be able to access the setup without being parked I would need a bypass harness too? And does the JBL need a trim piece?

97BlackAckCL, I ran across an older thread of yours on an Acura forum that you chronicled replacing all the speakers in your (old JBL?) setup. I don't think I ever saw the completed part. How did you end up powering the speakers? If you ended up keeping them on the JBL...how did they sound? I've heard that amp doesn't provide that much power to the speakers and I've read differing accounts of going from the 2 Ohm stock to 4 Ohm aftermarket speakers affecting sound quality and loudness. I've been thinking about using some Alpine Type-S speakers as well.

At some point I will need to get back to the A/C controller to repair it (lights burnt out) but I don't think I'll have time when I do the stereo. So it shouldn't be a problem to take it back out in the future to redo wiring, etc.

I used Alpine Type-S for the front and rear doors, and audiobahn dome tweeters for the tweeters in front and back, all powered off of the stock amp, they sounded great. I hacked my dash up to fit a 3.5" speaker in the center channel. I actually have all of my Type-S speakers and audiobahn tweeters that I used sitting around that I'm not going to use, if you want them, let me know I would give you a good deal for all of them. As for the adapters, yes, you would need 1 for the stock amp, and 1 for the steering wheel controls. Very easy to hook up.

 

[greenmonk]

If you're set on that Alpine, go to bestbuy.com and search your local stores under clearance items. Different stores seem to have different prices. For example, the Quail Springs store has it for $339. And I thought I got a great deal at my Best Buy paying $385 for that exact same one a few days ago! I don't know exactly where you live, so I just put in Oklahoma City as the city when searching for stores. I wouldn't wait too long because these are starting to disappear fast.

Also be aware that one store may have it for one price and a different store a different price. I have 3 Best Buy's within 10 miles of me and 2 of them had it for $524 and the 3rd for $385. All brand new in box, not open box.

 

[greenmonk]

To make your life easier so you don't have to do as much reading as I did, here is the list of items I got to install my new W535HD along with where I bought them from. These are for my 2006 4Runner Limited w/JBL. Just check compatibility on the Metra & Scosche websites.

Scosche TA2079B Harness
Metra TYTO-01 Interface Adapter (to keep your JBL system working)
Metra 70-8114 TURBOWire Wire Harness (to make your ASWC-1 pretty much plug & play, plus it let's you keep your factory installed AUX button)
Alpine KCU461IV iPod Controller (if you have Apple products)
Metra ASWC-1 (to keep the steering wheel controls)
PAC TR-7 or MicroBypass (parking brake bypass in case just grounding the wire doesn't work)

There is a $5 coupon for the site I linked to for the ASWC-1 and Metra TYTO-01. The code is GET5OFF. All the places I bought from are free shipping.

Good luck!

 

[thegardentool]

If you're set on that Alpine, go to bestbuy.com and search your local stores under clearance items. Different stores seem to have different prices. For example, the Quail Springs store has it for $339. And I thought I got a great deal at my Best Buy paying $385 for that exact same one a few days ago! I don't know exactly where you live, so I just put in Oklahoma City as the city when searching for stores. I wouldn't wait too long because these are starting to disappear fast.

Also be aware that one store may have it for one price and a different store a different price. I have 3 Best Buy's within 10 miles of me and 2 of them had it for $524 and the 3rd for $385. All brand new in box, not open box.

I didn't see that open box the other day when I was looking online, though I think I'd rather spend a bit more for the sealed box. The store down the road from me had 3 or 4 in stock yesterday, I think right under $400. I probably do need to jump on it if that's the unit I'm going to get. I was considering one of the 2012 Pioneer units but the only advantage I saw on those was the ability to add navigation down the road. Not something I'm really interested in and I've always liked Alpine HUs.

97BlackAckCL: That gives me a better feeling to not rip it all out just yet then. I'll send you a PM about those speakers probably tomorrow. It's getting pretty late here now.

On the down side I kept hearing a rattle coming from the dash speaker so I decided to investigate. Used a small flathead to pop the grill off except it snapped two corners. The whole thing felt really brittle so I imagine the previous owners may have parked it outside a lot. The rattling was the foam piece at the top of the speaker was falling apart. Looks like the adhesive was giving out, again I'd imagine from heat exposure. Might have to start calling some junkyards to look for a replacement since all the online part stores want $29+shipping for it.

The rear tweeters were in much better shape and no breakage there so it wasn't removal technique!

 

[thegardentool]

Okay I just picked up the receiver, $393.99 plus tax. They had an open box but it was the display they took out this morning. So I'm happy I didn't go up to that other store for the open box as it was probably their display as well.

I had them price match the Metra SWC kit to Amazon and I'll have to stop back by there to get them to apply a price match on the Metra Dash Kit 95-8202 (I hope this is the right one; its what their system suggested for non-nav JBL). They didn't have any of the amp kits in stock, closest store that had one was 1.5 hours away and it was the Scosche that I haven't heard anything about. Think I'll go ahead and order the Metra TYTO-01 from Sonic Electronix today.

Looking forward to giving this a try and hoping if I can work something out with 97BlackAckCL I can at least get 8 of the speakers replaced fairly soon.

 

[thegardentool]

Well I had some free time last night so even though I didn't hook up the Metra ASWC yet, waiting on the 70-8114 harness still, I installed the W535HD last night with just the Metra TYTO-01, USB cable and Mic. The whole thing took a lot longer than I thought, since removing took less time than finding my bit driver. Most of the problem was trying to figure out how to get the Metra 95-8202 that Best Buy sold me to fit. Of course after I realized it wasn't going to fit, I did more research and the original part number I thought I needed is the one I need. Not an item Best Buy usually carries in the store I found out today, and there is only one store in the area that *might* have it in stock but I'll save more money in gas by ordering it overnight through Amazon.

Not a huge deal as I don't plan on parking it anywhere too long in the open before I get it all finished up. And I have to get back in there to install the ASWC this weekend, while tidying up some cables and making room for the second black box. I can see what you meant there was no room behind the stereo for that Alpine amp, 97BlackAckCL. It's a hot mess in there right now.

The mic and USB placements are temporary while I figure out better solutions. Both are run through the openings from the removable buttons--mic through the dash and USB through the center console. I think the Mic I'm going to try mounting along the A-Pillar to keep it off the visor so I can still use it without pulling the cable around. USB I'm pretty sure I'm going to route it into the center console box but I was just too tired last night to find a drill bit or hole saw to do it.

I did forget to turn the volume on the stock stereo up to 40, and zero out the settings. I know I've read that is recommended/required on the PAC TATO, but is it also needed on the Metra TYTO?

On a side note, is there a way to keep from sounding the alarm when I reconnect the negative post on the battery? I was doing this after dark so I was inside my garage and it was pretty loud. Also took a few seconds before I was even able to turn it off when I had my remote handy the second time it happened.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Looking forward to giving this a try and hoping if I can work something out with 97BlackAckCL I can at least get 8 of the speakers replaced fairly soon.

Let me know if you still want those speakers, I pulled them all together last night and inspected everything to make sure they're all good.