12v Constant on and/or switched power

[gunkl]

is the circuit under DOOR RR not used? (that would explain the blank?)
As much as I dislike the mini-tap idea, if its not in use, that's probably a solid place to get your power.

As far as the way you've wired up the switch - I wouldn't do that either. I'd wire in a relay to do that job, keeping the switch side wiring low-gauge for easy install, and keeping the load bearing circuit out of the way/safe/and routed as short as possible. Then you can just use a nice toggle switch of your choosing and not worry about the load capacity of the switch.

In the end seems like a lot of work but I like where you're going with it, I'll be looking out for your final writeup with pics and stuff showing it working and how you got into the sealed box

There are other good reasons to run a completely new circuit direct to the battery, less system noise from the other electrical components, better grounding, not relying on chassis grounds.

 

[1engineer]

Do me a favor [MENTION=121437]gunkl[/MENTION] (besides learning how to multi quote and edit posts so you don't have multiple posts) go read [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]s build thread. After you read it from front to back THEN you can criticize if you think he messed up.
smh....

 

[gunkl]

[MENTION=121437]gunkl[/MENTION], [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] is good on the electrics, but maybe you can teach him how to fish?

I'm no good at fishing, so that would be great.

First off, by no means were my posts meant to be an attack on him or his work, they are just my opinion, I'm always more than happy to hear others. Frankly I was taken aback by the scolding by just merely having replied to an old post in a thread that was recently reactivated. I didn't realize there was a time limit etiquette in place.

I'm sure Antman's mods are solid, he's certainly done a lot of them, I've read through the majority of them. No question there's a wealth of experience and knowledge there I do not have.

When I first posted this I didn't realize they were plugging into a "blank" - unused fuse block spot. That's probably fine. I did notice some discrepancies in his mod thread on mini-tap use, but no need to get into what people don't care about (ie, things that just work and need not be explained?)

I saw plenty of mods with tap connectors, crimp barrels, my all time favorite mini-tap (with two fuses? being added to an inactive circuit?) all kinds of stuff that can cause people nothing but electrical gremlins. So far they've all worked out, it is hard to argue with the end result.

I look forward to meeting anyone and everyone on the forum doing what we love to do - playing with our trucks, that's what we're here for right? I'll be the first to buy you, Antman, and jicko some beers the moment I meet you as far as I'm concerned. We can then all have a good laugh at my V=IR lecture.

 

[gunkl]

I'll work on the multi-quote, thanks for the tip. As far as reading his thread, I've read what applies to this one and more.

I must have come on too strongly in my personal opinion that mini-taps are a bad idea. But you yourself are apparently an engineer like me, have you ever heard of an engineer that wasn't opinionated?

I'll put you on my beer tab as well, thanks for the tips.

Do me a favor [MENTION=121437]gunkl[/MENTION] (besides learning how to multi quote and edit posts so you don't have multiple posts) go read [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION]s build thread. After you read it from front to back THEN you can criticize if you think he messed up.
smh....

 

[NiT4R]

Constant Power Port

If you have the drivers side powered seat this modification will work for you. The wiring is easily accessible under the drivers seat by removing the four bolts that fasten the seat to the body and then tilting the seat back. The below picture shows the completed wiring.

The pink wire on the OB1 connector is from the 30 amp battery supply circuit and the white/black wire is the ground. I used Posi-Products Posi-Taps to connect to them.

Here's a picture of the fuse and cigarette extension cord parts I used.

I cut the plug off the extension cord and wired in the jack. The below picture is shown with a dual port USB adapter plugged in.

 

[DabberAZ]

Is there no solution to this saga. OP - constant on 12v? Great entertaining read, but no prize at the end. I'm looking for the red switch under the hood that solves this.

 

[brockleigh]

Radio and clock but not 12V

I tried Jickos mod today on my 2016 but I didn't have the same results. When I flip my switch the radio and the clock comes on... but not the 12 volts...

Well, the car didn't melt down so... now I can turn the radio on without the key.

Anyone want to take a stab at why it didn"t work?

OK (after my coffee and on my drive to work), I figured it out, it's similar but definitely not the same mod.

[MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] 's post: ANTMAN'S Thread - Page 4 - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum is to use the wire-tap to sneak out 12V constant ON power, and provide that directly to the front cigarette lighter power socket (or any socket); with the flip on the switch, get it back to original factory config.

[MENTION=65398]Reata[/MENTION] 's post: Reata's Build Thread - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum is to run a wire all the way from the battery to the rear (and even add an "always HOT" cigarette lighter power socket); IMO, this is WAY too much work, IF I don't have to do it (depending on how successful is my suggested mod is)

Now, the mod I suggested in 12v Constant on and/or switched power - Page 2 - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum allows EVERYTHING that is covered by 15A P/OUTLET fuse to be have constant ON power with the flip of the switch. Unfortunately I do not have the 2014/2015 electrical wiring diagrams, so I cannot confirm (until I actually have time to probe around), what are exactly covered with this particular fuse.

This mod should let me avoid the need to run the front-to-back wire, which I consider "lots of work" if I don't need to do it.

Let me execute on this mod first, if it is as useful as I thought it would be, I may consider putting together a simple plug&play kit group-buy for our members.

PS. does anyone have a list of the "EVERYTHING" cover by the 15A P/OUTLET fuse on 2014/2015?

 

[ElectroBoy]

I tried Jickos mod today on my 2016 but I didn't have the same results. When I flip my switch the radio and the clock comes on... but not the 12 volts...

Well, the car didn't melt down so... now I can turn the radio on without the key.

Anyone want to take a stab at why it didn"t work?

The Antman mod to create one dash outlet that switches between constant on and the OEM ignition powered outlet works well. That’s what I did.
Also there’s a mod where all power outlets are powered constantly on. It’s described here, see post #17.
Rear 12v outlet | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]

 

[brockleigh]

Thanks electroboy, I will try this again, however I feel I have this at the moment but with a switch. i'll update later if the results are the same for anyone else that may experience the same thing.

The Antman mod to create one dash outlet that switches between constant on and the OEM ignition powered outlet works well. That’s what I did.
Also there’s a mod where all power outlets are powered constantly on. It’s described here, see post #17.
Rear 12v outlet | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]

 

[brockleigh]

YEAH BOI!!!!!!! Thanks [MENTION=200736]ElectroBoy[/MENTION]. I made you set up and it works SO...It turns out I had my original setup fuse tap in p/outlet reversed. I assumed I had it the right way because originally I had the fog light mod in p/outlet and it was working (reversed). I now have both mods janked together and they all work. Power to the DC ports and fog lights anytime. 12v constant mod with the switch and antmans foglight mod can live together. However your fog lights will remain ON if you have the DC ports hot and the fog lamp switch on the column engaged.

 

[SuedePflow]

The Antman mod to create one dash outlet that switches between constant on and the OEM ignition powered outlet works well. That’s what I did.
Also there’s a mod where all power outlets are powered constantly on. It’s described here, see post #17.
Rear 12v outlet | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]

Have you or anyone else figured out how to do this on a 2020?

It seems that running a constant 12v to the P/Outlet in the fuse box on a 2020, does NOT work on a 2020 model. I'm hoping someone has figured out the hack for the 20+ cars.