'13 4Runner - Dead Battery?

94hokie

New member
So fly back into town last night (gone since Monday), and the battery is DOA. I'm talking zero charge. As is habit, I leave my headlights turned to "on" as I'm in a parkiing deck at the airport, but the auto-off takes care of that for me. I confirmed once I got home that the auto-off is still working (after airport maintenance guy jump started me). Thoughts? To me it seems like it could only be the battery, possibly a slow discharge issue? Going to the dealer tomorrow to wait my turn in line at service to have them check it out.
 
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Bone stock, all windows fully up and doors closed. As an aside, where's the best place to get "real" jumper cables, not the 10 guage stuff you find at autozone. Any online suggestions? Thanks.
 
Deka makes some decent jumper cables, if you want to get the real good stuff purchase solid copper jumper cables instead of the copper clad aluminum kind. This is what I am talking about:

Deka 100% Copper Conductors Deluxe Booster Cables 4-GAUGE - JCWhitney

That's probably not the best price, but something like that will last you longer than your 4runner :)

Or you can pick up some heavy cable and clamps and build one yourself:

Battery Clamps, Clips, & Insulators

Welding Cable - Professional Grade

Back to your question, I see you mentioned it is completely stock, but would you happen to know if the dealer added any kind of aftermarket alarm/remote start, etc?

I'd also get the battery load tested before anything else and see if that's your problem. It's not likely since the stock batteries are pretty reliable, but hey crap happens right, might as well eliminate one variable.
 
Nope, no added options from the dealer. Going to have them fully charge and test it tomorrow, but to me sounds like its a bad battery. Those deka cables look good, only other local option I could think of to buy would be at napa, think they stock some 4 gauge as well. Thanks for the links.
 
So couldn't get into either of my two local stealerships today, so having to wait to see if the battery is dead again this coming Thursday after having the 4Runner parked for a few days. Assuming it is, what's the "best" battery easily obtainable? I know a lot of folks like the Die Hard, some others the Optima (not local). Any suggestions? I've got access to Sears, Costco, AutoZone, etc. locally. Thanks.
 
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IIRC, both Autozone and Advance Auto Parts will load test your battery for free, right in their lot.

IIRC-2, I *think* Advance batteries were quite highly rated by CR testing. (I 'trust' CR for things they can objectively test, SUVs not so much. Sears Diehard was also highly rated).

Don't scrimp on the jumper cables - you will never be sorry. I especially like the nice flexible ones, and also get long ones vs shorter.
 
I would think your current battery should be under warranty so I'd have toyota put a new one in instead of spending your own money.
 
Have the dealer test the battery, if it has failed have them warranty it. I'm surprised I don't see this as often as I would think.

These vehicles sit on the lots for month, barely get driven (it takes roughly an hour drive to recharge the amount of energy used to crank over an everage vehicle as a general rule,) and the salespeople/dealer are too lazy to charge the cars regularly.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. My truck was only 1 month old when I bought it (based on door tag), so don't think it's an issue of the truck sitting. The battery on the other hand, who knows. My only issue now is, trying to get into the dealer when I'm back at home and not traveling. As others have said, sounds like I might need to get it tested at a local parts store and go from there. If it comes down to saving $125 vs. sitting at a dealer all day (or wasting a day like today), I'd much rather buy a new battery myself that is highly rated per the forum. Die Hard is readily available as is the Autozone battery. Any other suggestions to consider? And if anyone has another link on jumper cables send it along, otherwise it looks like the local NAPA store can provide 4 gauge copper cables, 16', for $75. Thanks.
 
Diehard Platinums are a popular and very highly rated battery, but don't underestimate the stock Panasonic one; it's actually a very good battery as long you treat it right.

However, it sounds like your mind is made up so I would just try to pick up a Diehard Platinum Group 31 battery and shoe horn it in there. (although what I really would do is go to the dealer and have it replaced under warranty, like everyone above is telling you :))

Here's a thread about the battery in case you are interested: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92219-sears-die-hard-platinum-group-31-a.html
 
Not sure if the system works the same as a 3rd Gen, but on ours
if you leave the headlights in the auto position and then open the passenger door after you open and close the driver's door it will turn the headlights back on.
This gets me occasionally, but most times especially at night, it is easy to see when the headlights are on or off. During the day it is not so easy to tell.
I recently got bit at a football tailgate with people going in and out of the doors all day. Didn't notice at all that the headlights kicked back on and were shining away. That's also why I bring my Minn Kota trolling motor battery box with me to tailgates. Works much better than jumper cables alone :biggrin1:
 
Everything I've read indicates our Panasonic batteries are good ones. Plus, your circumstances are just as suspect as anything else.

First, stop using the 'auto' feature, and see what happens. Also check out what member [MENTION=9351]SkidPalace[/MENTION] said - that's, um, interesting.

I just don't think I'd rush out and buy an expensive battery, when the odds are against that being the problem. Jumpers? Yes, you should have them anyway.
 
Not sure if the system works the same as a 3rd Gen, but on ours
if you leave the headlights in the auto position and then open the passenger door after you open and close the driver's door it will turn the headlights back on.
This gets me occasionally, but most times especially at night, it is easy to see when the headlights are on or off. During the day it is not so easy to tell.
I recently got bit at a football tailgate with people going in and out of the doors all day. Didn't notice at all that the headlights kicked back on and were shining away. That's also why I bring my Minn Kota trolling motor battery box with me to tailgates. Works much better than jumper cables alone :biggrin1:

Really? Mine has NEVER done that!
 
Right, so just to clarify, on the 3rd gens here's how it works:
You have your runner in auto headlight mode. You drive to the airport and park the car. You open the drivers door to get out and the headlights shut off immediately. You close the drivers door and go to the hatch to get your bags. You walk to the terminal and remember you need you phone charger. You go to the passenger door and enter to retrieve your cord. Upon opening the passenger door your headlights will turn back on. You don't notice your headlights are on. You close the door and head to the terminal. Your battery will be dead in 12-24 hrs??? You return from your trip to a dead battery.
If someone can confirm that your 5th gens do not exhibit this behavior, please disregard my posts.
Sorry for lurking here and not owning a 5th gen, but I am just trying to research as much as possible before deciding to pull the trigger on a '13 Trail.
 
Right, so just to clarify, on the 3rd gens here's how it works:
You have your runner in auto headlight mode. You drive to the airport and park the car. You open the drivers door to get out and the headlights shut off immediately. You close the drivers door and go to the hatch to get your bags. You walk to the terminal and remember you need you phone charger. You go to the passenger door and enter to retrieve your cord. Upon opening the passenger door your headlights will turn back on. You don't notice your headlights are on. You close the door and head to the terminal. Your battery will be dead in 12-24 hrs??? You return from your trip to a dead battery.
If someone can confirm that your 5th gens do not exhibit this behavior, please disregard my posts.
Sorry for lurking here and not owning a 5th gen, but I am just trying to research as much as possible before deciding to pull the trigger on a '13 Trail.

Here is how the 5th gen works:
Headlight switch is in the headlight "on" position and left there when vehicle is turned off. Headlights will stay on 30 seconds and then turn off automatically. Only way they will turn themselves back "on" is to start or turn the ignition switch to "acc." I just performed this test:

Started vehicle
Turned headlight switch "on"
Turned off vehicle and shut doors
Watched headlights turn themselves "off" after 30 seconds
Opened right front door. Nothing
Opened rear doors. Nothing
Opened hatch. Nothing
Opened left front door. Nothing

I even:
Patted my head
Rubbed my stomach
Turned around three times
Closed my eyes and

Nothing.
 
Here is how the 5th gen works:
Headlight switch is in the headlight "on" position and left there when vehicle is turned off. Headlights will stay on 30 seconds and then turn off automatically. Only way they will turn themselves back "on" is to start or turn the ignition switch to "acc." I just performed this test:

Started vehicle
Turned headlight switch "on"
Turned off vehicle and shut doors
Watched headlights turn themselves "off" after 30 seconds
Opened right front door. Nothing
Opened rear doors. Nothing
Opened hatch. Nothing
Opened left front door. Nothing

I even:
Patted my head
Rubbed my stomach
Turned around three times
Closed my eyes and

Nothing.

You dumb bunny ... yer supposed to click your heels three times.

FAIL.
 
I do the same thing as 1engineer, lights go out after 30 seconds. My concern is that if that part no longer works (though sure seemed to when I tested it at home), then something is up somewhere. Either something is remaining on, or the battery has a slow discharge issue. Going to try and get by a dealer again friday when I'm home, but Saturday is already full booked with other commitments. For now keeping my old jumper cables (that need replacing) in the 4Runner.
 
Well, the part that turns the lights off is actually a module. It seems like the battery is probably good which means you're going to need to start testing for a parasitic drain, which is a pain in the ass.
 

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