Can't Control Back Windows from Driver's

[zzdocxx]

Can't Control Back Windows from Driver's

The back windows work OK using the controls in the back seats.

But I can't open and close them from the driver's seat. (You know, there are four levers there, two front two back.)

The front windows open just fine from the driver's seat.

I just discovered this yesterday, but I have been working out of town and rarely home the last couple of years.

(Of note, last month I had to get a jump from AAA at my house because my battery had gone dead. I can't remember if I even got a click from the starter but definitely no engine turnover at all. I can't remember if I left an interior light on or something ? So I don't know if that might have anything to do with it or not.)

I think Toyotas are well-known for window switch problems, however, last time I had this, on my Pre-runner, an engineer friend said to spray it with LPS electrical contact lubricant (LPS 1) and that did the trick.

I called my regular mechanic and they said it sounds like the master switch. It sounds expensive.

Any thoughts on this ?

Thanks everyone, I love this forum, the generosity with your time and help is so very much appreciated by me, and by many others.

:angel:

PS, edit: I found this yt vid having to do with "normalizing" power windows, moonroof, etc., after disconnecting the battery for --not sure, more than just a few minutes?
https://youtu.be/zXAEQN7yegA?si=tG31frPvtHND2PKG

PSS: the vid above seems to be about getting the "auto" function of the windows to work, which is when you push the lever once and the window goes all the way down, or up too I guess. I just noticed that the front four switches in the driver's door say "All Auto" underneath them. Also that the back door window switches say "Auto". But the back windows are not doing the "Auto" thing. I played around with holding the switch down for a few seconds extra but no love on that. Ai yi yi looks like I'm in for an expensive visit to the shop.
Driver door switches still not opening back windows.

 

[spartacus]

Start by checking the fuses just in case the AAA guy arced the battery.

 

[jdm-v35]

Can't Control Back Windows from Driver's

The back windows work OK using the controls in the back seats.

But I can't open and close them from the driver's seat. (You know, there are four levers there, two front two back.)

The front windows open just fine from the driver's seat.

I just discovered this yesterday, but I have been working out of town and rarely home the last couple of years.

(Of note, last month I had to get a jump from AAA at my house because my battery had gone dead. I can't remember if I even got a click from the starter but definitely no engine turnover at all. I can't remember if I left an interior light on or something ? So I don't know if that might have anything to do with it or not.)

I think Toyotas are well-known for window switch problems, however, last time I had this, on my Pre-runner, an engineer friend said to spray it with LPS electrical contact lubricant (LPS 1) and that did the trick.

I called my regular mechanic and they said it sounds like the master switch. It sounds expensive.

Any thoughts on this ?

Thanks everyone, I love this forum, the generosity with your time and help is so very much appreciated by me, and by many, many others.

:angel:

PS, edit: I found this yt vid having to do with "normalizing" power windows, moonroof, etc., after disconnecting the battery for --not sure, more than just a few minutes?

Did the "window switch lock" button accidentally get pressed?

 

[zzdocxx]

Start by checking the fuses just in case the AAA guy arced the battery.

OK will do that now.

Did the "window switch lock" button accidentally get pressed?

Checked that, all in order.

Thanks for the suggestions.

 

[zzdocxx]

Looks like the fuses are OK, though to be honest:

1. I'm not sure which fuses control the windows. I looked for some info but just found it for the old secondary interior fuse boxes below and to the left of the steering wheel.
2. I think I would have to take out each fuse to be able to inspect it for failure, would I not? I don't suppose they have been thoughtful enough to build them such that failure would be detectable while the fuse is in place. :lmao:
3. I did find the relay box, three big relays in there, not sure how to detect failure.

I sprayed some LPS 1 in where the switches are, just on the off-chance, but no.

I don't like all the time it takes to take the 4R over to the shop and wait for it.

OK I am going to try this again https://youtu.be/K_AGepBE9Is?si=X-XP5sixc6p-l46A but not right now, time for a break!

 

[MasterFoo]

Your battery went dead, possibly need to reset your windows

 

[zzdocxx]

Your battery went dead, possibly need to reset your windows

That's what I am thinking.

Because in that second vid, it was the same situation I had. Ie. that the back windows would roll down from the back seat controls, but not from the driver's door.

Prob get to that tomorrow.

Thanks again everyone.

:llama:

 

[Humble Leader]

here's an idea you might be able to try. the door panel is fairly straightforward to remove. you don't even need to pull it off completely, I'm wondering if you could swap the plug from one of the rear window switches to the front switches. that way if the front window switch rolls the rears down then it's the switch itself and you can replace that whole switch assembly

I don't think there's an issue switching the plugs like this since the motor I believe is the same for all windows. if the fuses are OK then it's either a computer issue, wiring issue or switch issue. the first two are complex to solve the third is just a swap out

 

[fkheath]

here's an idea you might be able to try. the door panel is fairly straightforward to remove. you don't even need to pull it off completely, I'm wondering if you could swap the plug from one of the rear window switches to the front switches.

That won't work because the the drivers window switch is a module with a single connector, not four separate switches with four connectors.

 

[zzdocxx]

here's an idea you might be able to try. the door panel is fairly straightforward to remove. you don't even need to pull it off completely, I'm wondering if you could swap the plug from one of the rear window switches to the front switches. that way if the front window switch rolls the rears down then it's the switch itself and you can replace that whole switch assembly

I don't think there's an issue switching the plugs like this since the motor I believe is the same for all windows. if the fuses are OK then it's either a computer issue, wiring issue or switch issue. the first two are complex to solve the third is just a swap out

That won't work because the the drivers window switch is a module with a single connector, not four separate switches with four connectors.

Well that's a relief, I was afraid that Humble leader had me in for a few hours work. I realize that it might take others just 15 minutes to do the same job but just saying ! :lmao:

So as of now the plan is to do that up and down and hold thing with the back windows, see if they will reset. The second video showed that he had to do it like five times before it took.

 

[Humble Leader]

That won't work because the the drivers window switch is a module with a single connector, not four separate switches with four connectors.

damn. I guess you could try a new assembly with all four switches. you could order OEM from a dealer and pay the restocking fee if it doesn't solve the problem.

I've had toyota/lexus vehicles for years and numerous dead batteries, even unhooked batteries for days and never had to reset my windows. why do some people have to reset and others dont?

 

[fkheath]

damn. I guess you could try a new assembly with all four switches. you could order OEM from a dealer and pay the restocking fee if it doesn't solve the problem.

I bought a used drivers door switch off Ebay because I had broken the mounting bezel for the switch. It came a bit corroded (must have been out in the rain at a junk yard), but all I needed was the bezel, so put my original switch in it.

You might look on Ebay for a used switch.