16 4Runner trail faux TRD pro look w/ vinyl

jayhat

New member
So like everyone, I love the blacked out TRD pro look. I don't really want to spend ~$600 on parts for the top bar/logo/grille and then still have to paint/replace the front and rear silver panels as well.

I've decided to do something like the pic below. I thought about paint, but don't really like the idea of rattle canning my brand new truck. In my experience plasti dip on that area of the truck does not hold up to rock chips. I blacked out my 10 SR5's chrome up front with plasti and it peeled really bad after a few years (pro tip - goo gone is great at pulling off chipped/baked on/peeling plasti). I went to a local vinyl shop and they want ~$250 for the top bar and the front and rear silver pieces - which is more than I thought.



  • Is that on par with what others have paid?
  • Anyone painted it with rattle can? Pics?
  • How do you think vinyl will hold up in that high impact area? Don't really like the idea of having to pay $250 if I have to redo it every couple years.



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I know a few guys on here have plastidipped it or painted it. Would be easier to touch up than vinyl wrap.


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plasti dip has held up for 26,000 miles on mine (lots of hwy, lots of shitty country road), so far. not what you asked, but just throwing it out there.

really, i only replied because i'm curious what kind of room that is...very sterile looking.
 
i didnt do it for the "fauxpro" look more so that i just hate chrome lol - i also agree that $600 for 2 pieces of plastic is insane (thats the same cost of my rear long travel). The emblem was professionally painted matte black. The front lower trail valence was coated with Line-X to withstand road debris as well as take a beating off trail. I wouldnt bother with plastidip - its a small piece just get it painted professionally - if you want to rattle can it prep that area really well.

BTW the lighting is bad so it looks like i painted the center plastic piece black - its stock color

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plasti dip has held up for 26,000 miles on mine (lots of hwy, lots of shitty country road), so far. not what you asked, but just throwing it out there.

really, i only replied because i'm curious what kind of room that is...very sterile looking.

Not sure. Some random pic I found on Google. It does look like a clean room.
 
i didnt do it for the "fauxpro" look more so that i just hate chrome lol - i also agree that $600 for 2 pieces of plastic is insane (thats the same cost of my rear long travel). The emblem was professionally painted matte black. The front lower trail valence was coated with Line-X to withstand road debris as well as take a beating off trail. I wouldnt bother with plastidip - its a small piece just get it painted professionally - if you want to rattle can it prep that area really well.

BTW the lighting is bad so it looks like i painted the center plastic piece black - its stock color

View attachment 234009

Yours looks good!

I was thinking about stopping by a body shop to ask for a estimate. I am betting over $250 though. I may just try to paint them myself. I have a can of rustoleum flat black and matte clear coat I bought for another project and never used. I guess I can always try it and if I fail miserably just take it in for pro painting or buy all the pieces from Toyota. They are all replaceable and they do sell black versions of them.

Any prep tips? Clean really good, scuff with sand paper (what grit?), clean again, dry, several light coats of paint, several light coats of clear, and dry thoroughly? Probably should not paint in winter either.
 
plasti dip has held up for 26,000 miles on mine (lots of hwy, lots of shitty country road), so far. not what you asked, but just throwing it out there.

really, i only replied because i'm curious what kind of room that is...very sterile looking.
It looks like the same studio Toyota uses to make their 4runner How To YouTube videos

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The emblem will hold up very well with plasti-dip since not much flies up that high to hit your truck.

The valence is a different story. I had mine dipped for a while and what I found I liked the least was walking by the front of back of the truck and my pants catching and rubbing on the valences. Plasti-dip tends to grab fabric and I tore the plasti-dip a few times by brushing up against it.

If you remove the valences yourself though a paint shop should be able to spray them for a very reasonable price. My local shop painted both mine for $50 cash. The paint has held up very well, they look much better than dip, and I no longer have to worry about brushing up against them.
 
The emblem will hold up very well with plasti-dip since not much flies up that high to hit your truck.

The valence is a different story. I had mine dipped for a while and what I found I liked the least was walking by the front of back of the truck and my pants catching and rubbing on the valences. Plasti-dip tends to grab fabric and I tore the plasti-dip a few times by brushing up against it.

If you remove the valences yourself though a paint shop should be able to spray them for a very reasonable price. My local shop painted both mine for $50 cash. The paint has held up very well, they look much better than dip, and I no longer have to worry about brushing up against them.

Yeah I like the idea of dropping them off to get painted. I saw a thread about taking the front one off. Looked like a bit of a pain but not too bad. How was the back one?
 
Yours looks good!

I was thinking about stopping by a body shop to ask for a estimate. I am betting over $250 though. I may just try to paint them myself. I have a can of rustoleum flat black and matte clear coat I bought for another project and never used. I guess I can always try it and if I fail miserably just take it in for pro painting or buy all the pieces from Toyota. They are all replaceable and they do sell black versions of them.

Any prep tips? Clean really good, scuff with sand paper (what grit?), clean again, dry, several light coats of paint, several light coats of clear, and dry thoroughly? Probably should not paint in winter either.

Clean it well with rubbing alcohol or anything that strips oils, im not sure what grit you could use but someone else could chime in - you could prob even get away with a scotchbrite pad. Don't forget the primer.
 
Paint it or just buy the valances, I think I paid about $200 for the set of them. Had mine done in vinyl first and it had chips in it about a month in, peeled it off and bought the factory valances.
 
Paint it or just buy the valances, I think I paid about $200 for the set of them. Had mine done in vinyl first and it had chips in it about a month in, peeled it off and bought the factory valances.

Happen to have a the part numbers? I know I can look them up but I'm being lazy. And on my phone this site is a pain in the ass.
 
If you're looking to do this on the cheap, plastidip is the way to go. I've actually had surprisingly good luck with plastidip. Prepping the surface and starting out with a couple thin coats is key. I've had it on the front of a few vehicles and it's actually held up decent.

On the other hand, I actually ponied up the dough and purchased the TRD front pieces. It's ridiculous how expensive that piece of plastic was. And to think, I just replaced most of it with a Pelfreybilt bumper.
 
plasti dip has held up for 26,000 miles on mine (lots of hwy, lots of shitty country road), so far. not what you asked, but just throwing it out there.

really, i only replied because i'm curious what kind of room that is...very sterile looking.



Likewise. Plastidip has held up well on mine for many months of abuse.




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On the other hand, I actually ponied up the dough and purchased the TRD front pieces. It's ridiculous how expensive that piece of plastic was. And to think, I just replaced most of it with a Pelfreybilt bumper.

Shoot me a PM if you're looking to unload that expensive plastic :biggrin1:
 

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