1992 T4R 2LT slow build

[Arild]

Remember the new air-filter i used from a few posts back... the one i switched because we noticed more power available with the broken air duct...

Yeah, don't do it

When we replaced the timing belt/waterpump/tensioner/etc... i noticed the timing belt was misaligned by two notches. This resulted in more fuel aka black smoke and less power.

With the timing belt properly seated we got rid of most of the black smoke and gained normal power back.

Lesson learned.

 

[Arild]

The engine gave a loud whisteling sound when pulling up. I feared the worst and tought the turbo went kaput. Fortunately it was just a broken seal of the throttle valve housing. I went out to buy some oil paper and it was fixed in half an hour.

The oil is still brown which is a good thing.

Turned out the connector for the afterglow was melted too so it was replaced as well.

 

[Dropzone]

gotta love it when it turns out to be something like that!

 

[Arild]

True. But now i don't have an excuse to try out a bigger turbo [emoji39]

Question: i need to replace a leeking oil pan seal. Do i have to remove the entire IFS or can i just loosen the engine mounts?

Remember, i have the 2LT.

 

[Arild]

It has been a long time but the 4runner is still going strong! Just basic oil/fluid/filter changes.

 

[Arild]

I need some help as the 4runner won't start anymore. Here's a list what he does and doesn't. This is a 1992, 2L-T, turbo diesel.

• Key turned: glow plug indicator light comes up
• Glow plug indicator light stops, key turned for ignition: one click coming from starter motor but no turn. And buy turn i mean, not turning over.

Sometimes the engine starts (like, turn - ignition and running), sometimes it doesn't.

What we tested:

Battery: we tought it was dead, tested it with multimeter and gave 0.0v. Bought a new one but again, no turn. We went back to the batteryshop for a real battery-test and battery was good.

Starter Relay: We removed the starter relay and hard wired the connector pins but still no turn.

Contacts: Batterycontacts are clean. We also measured 12.5v at the + wire on the starter motor.

What we haven't tested yet:

- voltage drop at starter motor.
- amps. i do not have an amp clamp-on meter.

Also: we also have a faulty/dead coolant temperature sensor. Could this be related?

Possible solution: I could buy a new starter relay ($120) and/or starter motor ($170) but that would be too easy and no fun. It does start from time to time. If i try a couple of times it does start like it should.

Any help is appreciated.

[UPDATE:] So i began taking out the starter motor. Loosened the two 17mm bolts and tapped e few times with a hammer on the motor to get it loose. Then i was like, 'wait a minute..., could this be?' I srewed them back on, put the + wire back, gave it a try and it turned! I went for a small trip today to test and he started every time without error. Another €€€ saved.