2000 limited SleepyDad build

Looks great !

Did you have a tap to chase those big threads after cut or ?

no front range taps the threads deeper than the length of the heim joint rod ends. almost like they could envision having to chop just a little bit off the length of tubing? there is still plenty of thread depth like 1.5" of threads inside the tubing.

I like this setup enough I think I will put the lowers and uppers on the todo list.

I still need to test full stuff and full droop to make sure my disc brake setup clears... it's going to be close and I can see maybe having to trim off the very bottom setting on the passenger side of eimkeith bracket.
 
I still need to test full stuff and full droop to make sure my disc brake setup clears... it's going to be close and I can see maybe having to trim off the very bottom setting on the passenger side of eimkeith bracket.

that'd be GREAT data, thanks!
 
Trans cooler V2 "the thermostating"

I wanted to sort out my transmission cooler and get it out of the radiator. I also wanted to make sure it was thermostatically controlled.

overall flow here in potato video
<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/G2iBH37RqJo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

the details

Derale Fluid Control Thermostats 13011

re-used my
Hayden Automotive 679 Rapid-Cool Plate and Fin Transmission Cooler

bent up some 3/8 PVC coated brake line from o'reilly's

<a href="https://imgur.com/CR3PrJ5"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/CR3PrJ5l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I needed to mount the oil cooler so...
<a href="https://imgur.com/LedSN1R"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/LedSN1R.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/QkVOgrM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/QkVOgrMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

overall happy with it keeps things nice and solid and mostly out of the way.
<a href="https://imgur.com/DgRc3mN"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/DgRc3mNl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
I wanted to upsize to 33" tires

I also like the look of the spare steelies 42601-35751
BFG was doing a promo for a rebate
BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain T/A KM2 LT255/85R16 123Q E-ply
<a href="https://imgur.com/qG7CePj"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qG7CePjl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


went with the SOLO motor sports LCA and SPC UCA
these LCA move the lower ball joint forward about 1" and the SPC allow for a good quality alignment.
<a href="https://imgur.com/l5NsFyl"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/l5NsFyll.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

things are never complete you have to use some custom bumps from Duro Bumps
<a href="https://imgur.com/QKcMbLK"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/QKcMbLKl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


I also undid the 231 tundra brake caliper and went back to stock sized calipers. I was less than impressed by the tundra brake upgrade.
stock size napa rotors, calipers and pads
<a href="https://imgur.com/La6IRfV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/La6IRfVl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I need to take it this week for an alignment
<a href="https://imgur.com/gEyPK5H"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/gEyPK5Hl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

update, align done
<a href="https://imgur.com/ypvGCTL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ypvGCTLl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

ready to rock again
<a href="https://imgur.com/mEwg6pp"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/mEwg6ppl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Reeaaaalllllyyyy interested in doing a similar setup. Where did you purchase your steelies from? My 02 SR5 4WD only has a 2.5" leveling kit right now (proper lift coming soon). Does your setup rub at all? Did you need different lugs? Did you get center caps for your steelies?

Sorry for all the questions. New to 4Runners.

Thanks!
 
Reeaaaalllllyyyy interested in doing a similar setup. Where did you purchase your steelies from? My 02 SR5 4WD only has a 2.5" leveling kit right now (proper lift coming soon). Does your setup rub at all? Did you need different lugs? Did you get center caps for your steelies?

Sorry for all the questions. New to 4Runners.

Thanks!

no problem, welcome to the family of T4R nutters.

Where did you purchase your steelies from?
Toyota of Des Moines
42601-35751 Wheel, Spare
they had a deal going with free shipping so I took them up on it. $125 each.

My 02 SR5 4WD only has a 2.5" leveling kit right now (proper lift coming soon).

if the tires will not fit at stock height they are probably not going to fit even with a lift. you will need to replace lower control arms and uppers if you want to run 33" tires. I ran 32" before and they were great. it's going to run you an extra $1500 to go 33" tires and setup like I did it. just so you know. the suspension is going to follow the same path with or without a lift unless you put larger bump stops or limit straps.

Does your setup rub at all?

I have tested the fronts without shocks and no they do not, however I have not fully tested the rears yet. I will be surprised if they rub but... I can't say for 100% certain. I also can't say I have 100% tested them aired down on the trail. normal around town mall crawling over curbs is 100% test, no rub.

Did you need different lugs?

I did use different lugs but you can use the stock ones. I just like the look of the smaller lugs on the steelies. I think these actually are ones for a first gen taco. any auto parts store should have the open cap style ones.

Did you get center caps for your steelies?

I'm not a center cap fan but... I think Center Cap
4260360053 is the one your after if you get them. you will want to verify that one as I have not tried them.
 
no problem, welcome to the family of T4R nutters.

Where did you purchase your steelies from?
Toyota of Des Moines
42601-35751 Wheel, Spare
they had a deal going with free shipping so I took them up on it. $125 each.

My 02 SR5 4WD only has a 2.5" leveling kit right now (proper lift coming soon).

if the tires will not fit at stock height they are probably not going to fit even with a lift. you will need to replace lower control arms and uppers if you want to run 33" tires. I ran 32" before and they were great. it's going to run you an extra $1500 to go 33" tires and setup like I did it. just so you know. the suspension is going to follow the same path with or without a lift unless you put larger bump stops or limit straps.

Does your setup rub at all?

I have tested the fronts without shocks and no they do not, however I have not fully tested the rears yet. I will be surprised if they rub but... I can't say for 100% certain. I also can't say I have 100% tested them aired down on the trail. normal around town mall crawling over curbs is 100% test, no rub.

Did you need different lugs?

I did use different lugs but you can use the stock ones. I just like the look of the smaller lugs on the steelies. I think these actually are ones for a first gen taco. any auto parts store should have the open cap style ones.

Did you get center caps for your steelies?

I'm not a center cap fan but... I think Center Cap
4260360053 is the one your after if you get them. you will want to verify that one as I have not tried them.

Thanks so much for the thoughtful response. I'm already glad I joined this forum!

That's the part number I thought I needed. Thanks for verifying. I also really appreciate the center cap # because you saved me hours of googling.

I did a bit of research and I think I understand that a ~265/75/16 tire should work on this rim to give me 32s and thus no rubbing correct? I'm going with BFG K02 TA's for tires. Can I get away with 275/75/16? Like I said, truck is stock except for this daystar 2.5 leveling kit right now.
 
Thanks so much for the thoughtful response. I'm already glad I joined this forum!

That's the part number I thought I needed. Thanks for verifying. I also really appreciate the center cap # because you saved me hours of googling.

I did a bit of research and I think I understand that a ~265/75/16 tire should work on this rim to give me 32s and thus no rubbing correct? I'm going with BFG K02 TA's for tires. Can I get away with 275/75/16? Like I said, truck is stock except for this daystar 2.5 leveling kit right now.

265/75R16 are the biggest tires I have run on a stock 3rd gen. they do not rub but they are very close. the steel rims are exactly the same measurements as the alloys. 16x7 with the same backset. backset 4.5" I think? you will be ok with 265/75R16 and the steelies. you can't run tundra brakes on the steelies.

I'm thinking you will have some slight rubbing with 275/75/16 that is really close to a 33" tire. you will also want to look at the section width of the tire because the wider you go the more the backset comes into play and you will get rubbing on the upper control arms.

I have also worked with a really great little family tire shop right next to my house and they have helped me figure things out from time to time. they are a little more than discount tire types of places but they do great work and know what works and what will not. they helped me try a couple of different setup's on my landrover to figure out how big we could go. maybe an option? if you can find a decent local tire shop?
 
I think DaMonkey might have talked me into building my own with johnny joints.

front range stuff is top quality, I think it's just way overkill for my needs.

I’ve had the best experience with the Ballistic version of those joints. I’m going to make some for my 4runner, maybe order parts today. There’s a combo of parts for special request that you can use the 2.63” joints on lower with narrower ends that will fit stock mounts. The uppers will fit with 2” joints. I’ll share details as I sort it. Maybe make 2 sets since it’s always easier to do at same time. TIG on the cups will help heat control so no trouble on threading the retainers. Prob recruit my son to do that, he’s certified welder and prob just need his cooler filled for the work lol.

Rear arms are an improvement that I think goes way under appreciated.

Look forward to seeing update on your cooling!
 
I’ve had the best experience with the Ballistic version of those joints. I’m going to make some for my 4runner, maybe order parts today. There’s a combo of parts for special request that you can use the 2.63” joints on lower with narrower ends that will fit stock mounts. The uppers will fit with 2” joints. I’ll share details as I sort it. Maybe make 2 sets since it’s always easier to do at same time. TIG on the cups will help heat control so no trouble on threading the retainers. Prob recruit my son to do that, he’s certified welder and prob just need his cooler filled for the work lol.

Rear arms are an improvement that I think goes way under appreciated.

Look forward to seeing update on your cooling!


This is what I get for measurements

mounts
uppers 2 1/8"
lowers 2 3/8"
track bar 1 5/8"
frame track bar with Keith correct 1 7/8

track bar 37"
lowers 21"
upper 12 1/4"

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/0bTNx0gHC60" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
This is what I get for measurements

mounts
uppers 2 1/8"
lowers 2 3/8"
track bar 1 5/8"
frame track bar with Keith correct 1 7/8

track bar 37"
lowers 21"
upper 12 1/4"

I’d add to this that standard equivalents for bolt bores are 1/2” upper arms and panhard. 9/16” for lower arms.

The 2.63” Ballistic joints can be had with narrower balls for 2 3/8” and 9/16” bore which is perfect. Just have to ask them for the narrower ball in order notes which is not an option for cart.

For uppers the 2” Ballistic joint will need a washer to shim in mount.

The panhard rod end helms, if you get the MXM-12-10 is a 3/4 heim with 5/8 bore will mount in 1.25 .120 DOM; combined with the 10-8 misalignment spacers will give 2 3/8 width and 1/2” reduced bore. Also perfect.

All the measurements you shared foot with mine except I only have the eimkeith panhard riser which measures 1 5/8 width, I don’t have the frame drop correction bracket. The oem panhard frame mount is 1 5/8. Wonder why the correction drop bracket is 1 7/8? I don’t have one to check, but maybe worth a double check on that?
 
Wonder why the correction drop bracket is 1 7/8? I don’t have one to check, but maybe worth a double check on that?

Here, let me quote myself for a moment...

I see on Keith’s website he did that for misalignment and includes 2x 3mm hardened spacers which makes up the difference.
 
electric fan setup

filming on this vid did not go so smooth but... maybe this will give people some ideas? disclaimer about my setup at this point in time: I don't have my AC hooked up right now... need new compressor. I don't expect this setup will have any trouble with the AC I just need to fix it... AC is such a pain.
[MENTION=198376]4Runner4Leon[/MENTION] added a fused contact in the stock fuse box. super easy really.

champion CC1998 aluminum radiator

Derale Performance 16842 Gray/Black High Output Dual Radiator Fan

auto-cool-50 now replaced with auto-cool-55 but... very similar.
AUTO COOL 55 Pulse width modulated fan controller | autocoolguy

Deutsch DTP connectors - these are cool but I wish the stupid crimping tool was not so expensive. I would use them more but that part stops me every time. I have seen cheap knock off's but not sure if the frustration is worth the cheap ones?

DTP04-4P-E004 - DTP Series - 4 Pin Receptacle Black
WP-4P - DTP Series - Wedgelock for a 4 Pin Receptacle
0460-204-12141 - Size 12 Solid Pin - 12-14 AWG - Nickel Plated
DTP06-4S-E004 - DTP Series - 4 Socket Plug Black
WP-4S - DTP Series - Wedgelock for a 4 Socket Plug
0462-203-12141 - Size 12 Solid Socket - 12-14 AWG - Nickel Plated
1011-026-0205 - Mounting Clip - Fits 2, 3, 4, 6, 12 Cavity
DT04-2P - DT Series - 2 Pin Receptacle
W2P - DT Series - Wedgelock for a 2 Pin Receptacle
0460-202-16141 - Size 16 Solid Pin - 16-18-20 AWG - Nickel Plated
DT06-2S - DT Series - 2 Socket Plug
W2S - DT Series - Wedgelock for a 2 Socket Plug
0462-201-16141 - Size 16 Solid Socket - 16-18-20 AWG - Nickel Plated
1011-026-0205 - Mounting Clip - Fits 2, 3, 4, 6, 12 Cavity


<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZsRK8o5InIc" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Last edited:
The 2.63” Ballistic joints can be had with narrower balls for 2 3/8” and 9/16” bore which is perfect. Just have to ask them for the narrower ball in order notes which is not an option for cart.

FYI i can confirm this. That being said I just got under the truck this weekend and my passenger side rear was loosey goosey. I could twist the control arm very easily and these only have maybe 7-8k on them. Planning on pulling them here soon and seeing if its just a re-torquing/greasing issue or if the races have degraded.

Untitled by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr
 
FYI i can confirm this. That being said I just got under the truck this weekend and my passenger side rear was loosey goosey.

Those look nice. Do you have uppers also? I just received all the parts, just getting started on it.

What do you think of how they perform? On previous build, I have 15k miles and they are super solid but hardly any travel on that. I was amazed at what they did for rear end performance on that car so I’m pretty excited to get these on 4runner. Generally, these do require lube, inspection and retorque especially after they first seat in. Look forward to hearing what you find.
 
Those look nice. Do you have uppers also? I just received all the parts, just getting started on it.

What do you think of how they perform? On previous build, I have 15k miles and they are super solid but hardly any travel on that. I was amazed at what they did for rear end performance on that car so I’m pretty excited to get these on 4runner. Generally, these do require lube, inspection and retorque especially after they first seat in. Look forward to hearing what you find.

I did double Heims for the uppers. Ruffstuff was having a sale and it was too good to pass up. I loved them honestly. Still do performance wise. They’re quiet, solid, articulate smoothly. Up until this race issue I had zero complaints. And it may be nothing. I did a grease and retorque after about 500 miles and then nothing since. The drivers side is still tight so it could be nothing to be honest. Those links have some solid hits on them and the driving was 100% wheeling or driving to wheeling so I can’t fault it really.
 
I wanted to upsize to 33" tires

I also like the look of the spare steelies 42601-35751
BFG was doing a promo for a rebate
BFGoodrich Mud-Terrain T/A KM2 LT255/85R16 123Q E-ply
<a href="https://imgur.com/qG7CePj"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qG7CePjl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


went with the SOLO motor sports LCA and SPC UCA
these LCA move the lower ball joint forward about 1" and the SPC allow for a good quality alignment.
<a href="https://imgur.com/l5NsFyl"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/l5NsFyll.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

things are never complete you have to use some custom bumps from Duro Bumps
<a href="https://imgur.com/QKcMbLK"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/QKcMbLKl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


I also undid the 231 tundra brake caliper and went back to stock sized calipers. I was less than impressed by the tundra brake upgrade.
stock size napa rotors, calipers and pads
<a href="https://imgur.com/La6IRfV"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/La6IRfVl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I need to take it this week for an alignment
<a href="https://imgur.com/gEyPK5H"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/gEyPK5Hl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

update, align done
<a href="https://imgur.com/ypvGCTL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ypvGCTLl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

ready to rock again
<a href="https://imgur.com/mEwg6pp"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/mEwg6ppl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Where did u score your steel wheels.
 
Where did u score your steel wheels.

I found them in IA at a toyota dealer. it was a decent deal and free shipping... either you can source them from junk yards and hope you get straight ones and blast/coat or buy new ones? they will run you $100-$120 each new. and really that is not bad for new wheels? IMO
 

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