2005 V8 Overheating.

[jdemello]

I did a couple searches and can't find much information on this. My 2005 v8 runs empty and with out a load at 195-210. When I tow my trailer through the 100* plus desert I've hit 236 and had to turn the heater on and ease off the throttle.

If I stop and let it idle it will get down to 190 in cool weather and 200 in hot weather.

I've had the timing belt and water pump replaced and recently replaced the radiator,thermostat and fan clutch just to make sure it's all good.

The engine has about 120k on it and I tow a pretty hefty toy hauler with it that empty is 5000lbs and loaded as much as 6500lbs. My runner is on 35's and re-geared to 4:56 ratio.

Before I start cutting holes in my hood and looking at bigger radiators with electric fans, is there something else I should be looking at?

Is it possibly a blown head gasket?

I've gotten hot before wheelin in hot weather too while messing around in the sand.

 

[tollboothwilley]

TYPICALLY - the fan clutch actually pulls more air than the E-fans.

Obivously while pulling a load you are gonna generate more heat, but you may have a clog or blocked radiator. Have you cleaned between the rad and the condenser?

 

[03_4x4Runner]

You are probably maxed out on the design limits of the 4runner, almost max load, 100+ heat, 35s, and 120k miles. Time for a diesel truck.

 

[zopperman]

I did a couple searches and can't find much information on this. My 2005 v8 runs empty and with out a load at 195-210. When I tow my trailer through the 100* plus desert I've hit 236 and had to turn the heater on and ease off the throttle.

If I stop and let it idle it will get down to 190 in cool weather and 200 in hot weather.

I've had the timing belt and water pump replaced and recently replaced the radiator,thermostat and fan clutch just to make sure it's all good.

The engine has about 120k on it and I tow a pretty hefty toy hauler with it that empty is 5000lbs and loaded as much as 6500lbs. My runner is on 35's and re-geared to 4:56 ratio.

Before I start cutting holes in my hood and looking at bigger radiators with electric fans, is there something else I should be looking at?

Is it possibly a blown head gasket?

I've gotten hot before wheelin in hot weather too while messing around in the sand.

I don't have any insight, but i would love to see a picture of this beast

 

[jdemello]

TYPICALLY - the fan clutch actually pulls more air than the E-fans.

Obivously while pulling a load you are gonna generate more heat, but you may have a clog or blocked radiator. Have you cleaned between the rad and the condenser?

The radiator has been replaced. I'm actually leaning towards the timing being off. I think it started when I had the belt replaced.

 

[jdemello]

You are probably maxed out on the design limits of the 4runner, almost max load, 100+ heat, 35s, and 120k miles. Time for a diesel truck.

Had a diesel truck, got tired of breaking down

Actually I use this truck because I have to be able to get my truck and my hauler full of displays to events.

I've towed like this for over 20k Texas and back as well as New Mexico and AZ several times.

I'm starting to think it's a timing issue.

 

[jdemello]

I don't have any insight, but i would love to see a picture of this beast

 

[tacticalcustoms]

I thought the 4runner self times itself. Also I know you replaced your radiator etc but did you flush it. Also have you thought it might be a bad temp sensor or air in the system

 

[ebg18t]

Jason - I think you are just at the limit of the cooling system. The weight+wind resistance+heat is just too much.

You could try bleeding the system again and power washing all the radiator fins..

 

[mole177]

kinda surprised to see a vendor post a problem. glad to know their rigs are just the same as ours

Demello's products and services rock!

btw... are you selling your steel bumper, which is , i heard, being replaced with an alumnium one??

unless you see your oil milky when changed, i do not suspect blown head gasket. maybe something else.

 

[LTDSC]

i havent looked so dont yell, but can you add a trans cooler? or another one?

 

[jdemello]

I thought the 4runner self times itself. Also I know you replaced your radiator etc but did you flush it. Also have you thought it might be a bad temp sensor or air in the system

It does but if it jumps time? I don't know I've tried everything else.

I just spoke with my mechanic that did the belt replacement and he said it couldn't be that.

I'm going to take it to him tomorrow.

We tried to put a timing light on it and it says 7* advanced but from what my mechanic tells me (he knows his stuff) he said that's not an accurate number.

 

[jdemello]

Jason - I think you are just at the limit of the cooling system. The weight+wind resistance+heat is just too much.

You could try bleeding the system again and power washing all the radiator fins..

It gets hot unloaded too. I was off-roading one time and it got to at least 230-240 I can't remember. I was just playing in the sand and had the AC full blast.

 

[jdemello]

kinda surprised to see a vendor post a problem. glad to know their rigs are just the same as ours

Demello's products and services rock!

btw... are you selling your steel bumper, which is , i heard, being replaced with an alumnium one??

unless you see your oil milky when changed, i do not suspect blown head gasket. maybe something else.

It already is replaced I have the first aluminum bumper on my 4runner, I'm testing it out. I haven't had a chance to do any really hard winch pulls or run into any buildings with it yet I might sell my old one but I haven't decided yet.

And yes we have problems too. Most of the times we can figure it out, when it comes to cooling on these engines I was pretty confident that they never get hot unless there is a real problem.

 

[cabowally]

Doesn't sound like a timing issue to me but mine also runs a 7degrees btdc per my autoenginuity software. Service Manual lists the specs at 5-15 btdc.

The system does need bleeding. That would be my first test. Then I'd also make sure your system is holding pressure with a pressure check.

2UZ-FE COOLING: COOLANT: REPLACEMENT

DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the engine and radiator are still hot. Thermal expansion will cause hot engine coolant and steam to blow out from the radiator.

(a) Remove the radiator cap.
(b) Remove the service hole cover from the engine under cover No. 1.
(c) Install a vinyl hose onto the drain on the radiator side.
(d) Fix the vinyl hose with tape.
(e) Loosen the 3 drain plugs on the engine and radiator, and drain the coolant.
(f) Drain the coolant from the reservoir tank.
(g) Tighten the 3 drain plugs.

Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft-lbf) for the engine
(h) Remove the vinyl hose from the radiator.

ADD ENGINE COOLANT

(a) Slowly fill the system with engine coolant.

Capacity:
12.3 liters (13.0 US qts, 10.8 Imp. qts)
HINT:

Use of improper coolants may damage the engine cooling system.
Use only Toyota Super Long Life Coolant or similar high quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology consists of a combination of low phosphates and organic acids).
New Toyota vehicles are filled with Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (color is pink, premixed ethylene glycol concentration is approximately 50 % and freezing temperature is -35°C (-31°F)). When replacing the coolant, Toyota Super Long Life Coolant is recommended.
Observe the coolant level inside the radiator by pressing the inlet and outlet radiator hoses several times by hand. If the coolant level goes down, add the coolant. NOTICE: Do not substitute plain water for engine coolant.

(b) Install the radiator cap securely.
(c) Bleed the cooling system.
(1) Open the heater water valve while warming up the engine.
(2) Maintain the engine speed at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm and warm up the engine.
(d) Stop the engine and wait until the coolant cools down.
(e) Add coolant into the reservoir until the coolant level is FULL.

INSPECT ENGINE COOLANT LEAK

(a) Fill the radiator with coolant and attach a radiator cap tester.
(b) Pump it to 118 kPa (1.2 kgf/cm2 17.1 psi), then check for leakage.

 

[CXS]

My 2005 v8 runs empty and with out a load at 195-210. When I tow my trailer through the 100* plus desert I've hit 236 and had to turn the heater on and ease off the throttle.

If I stop and let it idle it will get down to 190 in cool weather and 200 in hot weather.

Sounds pretty much like my '05 V8 and I didn't see any problems with those temps. What should they be?

 

[cabowally]

Per Service Manual: Thermostat Valve Opening Temp: 176 - 183 F and valve lift of 10mm at 203F.





.

 

[JB.]

jdemello,

How are you getting the temps, scan gauge? Have you taken any steps to verify the numbers, like shooting the radiator hose with an IR gun or something?

Probably a very unlikely scenario, but if I didn't like the numbers I was seeing and there was nothing obvious to point to, I'd try to find a way to double check the numbers.

 

[jdemello]

Doesn't sound like a timing issue to me but mine also runs a 7degrees btdc per my autoenginuity software. Service Manual lists the specs at 5-15 btdc.

The system does need bleeding. That would be my first test. Then I'd also make sure your system is holding pressure with a pressure check.

2UZ-FE COOLING: COOLANT: REPLACEMENT

DRAIN ENGINE COOLANT CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the engine and radiator are still hot. Thermal expansion will cause hot engine coolant and steam to blow out from the radiator.

(a) Remove the radiator cap.
(b) Remove the service hole cover from the engine under cover No. 1.
(c) Install a vinyl hose onto the drain on the radiator side.
(d) Fix the vinyl hose with tape.
(e) Loosen the 3 drain plugs on the engine and radiator, and drain the coolant.
(f) Drain the coolant from the reservoir tank.
(g) Tighten the 3 drain plugs.

Torque: 13 Nm (130 kgf-cm, 9 ft-lbf) for the engine
(h) Remove the vinyl hose from the radiator.

ADD ENGINE COOLANT

(a) Slowly fill the system with engine coolant.

Capacity:
12.3 liters (13.0 US qts, 10.8 Imp. qts)
HINT:

Use of improper coolants may damage the engine cooling system.
Use only Toyota Super Long Life Coolant or similar high quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology consists of a combination of low phosphates and organic acids).
New Toyota vehicles are filled with Toyota Super Long Life Coolant (color is pink, premixed ethylene glycol concentration is approximately 50 % and freezing temperature is -35°C (-31°F)). When replacing the coolant, Toyota Super Long Life Coolant is recommended.
Observe the coolant level inside the radiator by pressing the inlet and outlet radiator hoses several times by hand. If the coolant level goes down, add the coolant. NOTICE: Do not substitute plain water for engine coolant.

(b) Install the radiator cap securely.
(c) Bleed the cooling system.
(1) Open the heater water valve while warming up the engine.
(2) Maintain the engine speed at 2,000 to 2,500 rpm and warm up the engine.
(d) Stop the engine and wait until the coolant cools down.
(e) Add coolant into the reservoir until the coolant level is FULL.

INSPECT ENGINE COOLANT LEAK

(a) Fill the radiator with coolant and attach a radiator cap tester.
(b) Pump it to 118 kPa (1.2 kgf/cm2 17.1 psi), then check for leakage.

Thank you, We've bleed the system before and have done all of the above except a pressure test. We don't have a pressure tester here. I also only used Toyota only coolant fluid.

Also when I stopped after my long drive I did check the coolant level the radiator was full but the over flow was almost empty, I topped it off but experienced the same issues on the drive home.

Comparing this engine to my 2002 Tundra v8 with the non vvti motor and just running around town the temp barely hits 190 let alone 200-210 in normal driving. It stays at 178-190 most of the time. Even when I used it to tow the trailer last week a very short distance it didn't reach above 190*. I know they are slightly different engines but I'd assume the cooling systems are similar.

It could be as simple as a really good coolant flush, I'm taking it to my Mechanic friend today to have him see if he can find something I'm not.

Since posting yesterday I checked the AC condenser and and trans cooler for blockage and they were both clear. I also looked at the bumper causing the issue and I'm confident it has more air flow than stock. I know I'm running bigger tires but I'm also re-geared for them.

 

[jdemello]

Sounds pretty much like my '05 V8 and I didn't see any problems with those temps. What should they be?

Do you tow a large trailer as well.