2011 vs 2012 vs 2013 Model Years

Maslow

New member
I am just about to purchase my first 4Runner. I'm getting a Limited trim certified pre-owned and I'm debating getting a 2011, 2012 or 2013. Are there any significant differences between the model years that I should consider?

My dealer has a 2011 available with pretty low mileage (40k) and it seems like the one for me. But I'm not sure if I should hold off to examine a 12 or 13.

http://www.koonstoyotatysonscorner....virginia-1076af010a0a00026f0e440b39de5f23.htm

Also, this 2011 has the third row seats. I don't foresee myself having any use for these. Are they removable? Do they reduce the cargo capacity at all once they're laid down?

Sorry in advance if this is a common/noob question. I couldn't find a thread addressing this exact question. Thanks!
 
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Looks like a clean car, if you do not foresee yourself using the 3rd row seat you may want to pass on this car.
If you do a search on here in the 5th gen section you can see how much room the 3rd row takes up in the back.
 
Toyota started putting the Air Injection Pumps in our 4runners starting with the 2013 MY. All else being equal, I would rather not have one of those things in my vehicle.

Also for SR5s, 2012 was the last year for the manual transfer case lever, 2013+ SR5s have the Rotary knob.

Also, for the 3rd row thing...the most annoying thing about the 3rd row is that it isn't completely flat when it is down. It has a slight decline towards the rear, so when opening the hatch after driving around, things have a tendency to fall out...
 
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I think that price is a little high. I just bought a 2013 SR5 2wd w 19k miles. it was mid 20s (price)

But it was not a limited. Maybe you really want a limited. Mine does not have leather or Nav or the 20 inch wheels. But I do have the sunroof. Lastly if Kelly blue books says that is a good price then it is a good price.
 
You can't compare the SR5 price to a Limited. They are a lot different. 2WD runners and 4WD runners are also very different.

I think the price is about right. I paid 29k a couple months ago for my 2011 Limited with 53k on it. And that was the best deal I could find around here after looking for months. I drove 4 hours to pick it up in Iowa. Mine wasn't certified though, that usually tacks on 1k or so.

OP, make sure to put the VIN into toyotas owners website. You can find out if there was maintenance or repairs on the vehicle. I was able to see that the previous owner of mine had it fully detailed every spring and kept up on all recommended maintenance.
 
OP, did you know it was in an accident?

Check out the carfax.

04/15/2012
New Jersey
Damage Report

Accident reported
Involving right side impact
with another motor vehicle
Right side primarily damaged
 
Thanks so much for pointing me to the Carfax report and especially the Toyota Owners website! I knew about Carfax of course but didn't realize I could pull it up so easily (I've never bought a car before) and had no idea about the owners website.

I looked at the entire vehicle history on the owners site and it appears it was previously a corporate fleet vehicle. I wonder if that means a Toyota employee owned it? It looks like it was well cared for and I know that if you're leasing a vehicle and intend to return it, you've got to get every little thing taken care of.

The damage from that accident appears very minor. A right rear bumper panel and some clips were replaced. I think I can live with that as long as I can use it as a little leverage to lower the price.

The third row seat not becoming perfectly flat is potentially big time problem for me though. That sounds like it could be really annoying. I'm going to go to the dealership tomorrow to take a look at it. Thank you!
 
I bought it! :):banana:

Congrats! Question: Did you at least use the Carfax blemish to reduce the price a bit during negotiations? I hope you did, as it will assuredly come up when you decide to sell or trade it in yourself. It's normally at least a $2000.00 hit on trade in/resale value....even if the damage was minor.
 
Congrats! Question: Did you at least use the Carfax blemish to reduce the price a bit during negotiations? I hope you did, as it will assuredly come up when you decide to sell or trade it in yourself. It's normally at least a $2000.00 hit on trade in/resale value....even if the damage was minor.

Believe me, I tried; however, the car was already priced below every equivalent model in the area (I knew this for certain and so did they) and they were unwilling to lower the price. I brought with me a printout from autodamageexperts.com and the exact service history of the vehicle showing the repairs made. The guy in charge of sales then came over and told me that was already included in the price. I told him I wouldn't buy it then and he said he'd keep me informed if another car came in soon. Maybe I could have pushed a little harder but I think the price was fair. The damage was very minor--they replaced a part of the bumper and come clips. I inspected it carefully all around and could not see any evidence of the repair. It was a leased vehicle before so I'm pretty confident it was taken care of all around.

Instead of getting them to lower the base price, I was able to have them install running boards and provide me with a second key at cost. Maybe I could have gotten a little more but I put on a lot of pressure and told them I was unwilling to buy it for that price without an accessory concession. I feel like I got a good, fair deal. Then again, in every good hustle the person hustled always feels like they came out ahead I suppose. But seriously, as far as I can tell so far I got an awesome vehicle for about $1000 less than the Bluebook value (even though they claimed it was $4,500 below Bluebook).

The best part was at the end when they wanted to sell me the extra warranty crap. I declined everything. Then he offered to reduce the price slightly. I declined again. He reduced it a little more for a "Costco" discount (maybe legit, maybe lol?). I then offered half of the asking price for the the tire damage warranty and electronic systems warranty--primarily because the electronics burned out on my last car pretty soon after I bought it and I do a lot of street parking and driving on unimproved roads so I think the tires/rims could get messed up at some point. The sales guy said "man, OK I can do it just because it's late at night now and I'm a pushover when I want to just go home." I retorted, "actually my man, YOU are the one who waited until the 11th hour here to raise these issues with me. I've been here since 6:00--sitting around waiting on you guys to shuffle papers/play good cop bad cop for the past two hours--and it's now 10:30 and this is the first I've heard of it. So don't think you can trick me with this reverse psychology crap by claiming your chosen tactic is being used against you." Things suddenly moved much faster after that and I ended up with the extra coverage for tires and electronics at half the standard price.

I still wonder if I got swindled there at the end. I did the math and it's still a bit of a risk/reward thing. I certainly don't hope to have to use the warranty but I'm OK with having paid for it. I don't have the paperwork in front of me but I think it works out to about $1250 for those things. If I have to replace a couple rims and a couple tires I'll come out ahead...I think.
 
Believe me, I tried; however, the car was already priced below every equivalent model in the area (I knew this for certain and so did they) and they were unwilling to lower the price. I brought with me a printout from autodamageexperts.com and the exact service history of the vehicle showing the repairs made. The guy in charge of sales then came over and told me that was already included in the price. I told him I wouldn't buy it then and he said he'd keep me informed if another car came in soon. Maybe I could have pushed a little harder but I think the price was fair. The damage was very minor--they replaced a part of the bumper and come clips. I inspected it carefully all around and could not see any evidence of the repair. It was a leased vehicle before so I'm pretty confident it was taken care of all around.

Instead of getting them to lower the base price, I was able to have them install running boards and provide me with a second key at cost. Maybe I could have gotten a little more but I put on a lot of pressure and told them I was unwilling to buy it for that price without an accessory concession. I feel like I got a good, fair deal. Then again, in every good hustle the person hustled always feels like they came out ahead I suppose. But seriously, as far as I can tell so far I got an awesome vehicle for about $1000 less than the Bluebook value (even though they claimed it was $4,500 below Bluebook).

The best part was at the end when they wanted to sell me the extra warranty crap. I declined everything. Then he offered to reduce the price slightly. I declined again. He reduced it a little more for a "Costco" discount (maybe legit, maybe lol?). I then offered half of the asking price for the the tire damage warranty and electronic systems warranty--primarily because the electronics burned out on my last car pretty soon after I bought it and I do a lot of street parking and driving on unimproved roads so I think the tires/rims could get messed up at some point. The sales guy said "man, OK I can do it just because it's late at night now and I'm a pushover when I want to just go home." I retorted, "actually my man, YOU are the one who waited until the 11th hour here to raise these issues with me. I've been here since 6:00--sitting around waiting on you guys to shuffle papers/play good cop bad cop for the past two hours--and it's now 10:30 and this is the first I've heard of it. So don't think you can trick me with this reverse psychology crap by claiming your chosen tactic is being used against you." Things suddenly moved much faster after that and I ended up with the extra coverage for tires and electronics at half the standard price.

I still wonder if I got swindled there at the end. I did the math and it's still a bit of a risk/reward thing. I certainly don't hope to have to use the warranty but I'm OK with having paid for it. I don't have the paperwork in front of me but I think it works out to about $1250 for those things. If I have to replace a couple rims and a couple tires I'll come out ahead...I think.

Sounds like you did what you needed to do, and went into your decision with "eyes wide open". If the price was notably reduced for the blemish on the Carfax it's probably fine since it looks like it was a simple repair. Congrats again and welcome to the club!

The warranty stuff is a "personal preference" thing in my opinion. I always calculate in the "free" maintenance that is usually a part of the warranty and then decide if I feel like there's a real "net value" at the end. I got the 7 year warranty on mine, and paid cash for it at the end of the transaction (after thinking about it for a day). I look at if from the standpoint of not having to worry about any major car repairs for the next 7 years. Peace of mind has a value to me. Others will say we're crazy for getting warranties. Like I said...it's a personal preference.
 
Sounds like you did what you needed to do, and went into your decision with "eyes wide open". If the price was notably reduced for the blemish on the Carfax it's probably fine since it looks like it was a simple repair. Congrats again and welcome to the club!

The warranty stuff is a "personal preference" thing in my opinion. I always calculate in the "free" maintenance that is usually a part of the warranty and then decide if I feel like there's a real "net value" at the end. I got the 7 year warranty on mine, and paid cash for it at the end of the transaction (after thinking about it for a day). I look at if from the standpoint of not having to worry about any major car repairs for the next 7 years. Peace of mind has a value to me. Others will say we're crazy for getting warranties. Like I said...it's a personal preference.

My thoughts exactly. Part of it is that I have very limited experience working on cars. I made a few minor repairs to my Saab (intalled an ABS module one time) and changed the oil a couple times. But I live in an apartment and don't have many tools and park outside, so I'm not really keen on having to do much maintenance on the car. Maybe I'll get more into it now that I've got this bad boy, but that definitely factored into my decision to get the extra warranty once the guy lowered the price.

Thanks! I'm really excited about it. My previous car was/is a 1999 Saab 9-3, so this is a big change/step up. Don't get me wrong, I love my Saab but over the past few years it hasn't loved me back, including leaving me stranded in freezing rain 2 hours from home with my in-laws last weekend. So I'm super excited to have a reliable vehicle with a good service package!

Random question for you/anyone: how do the power plugs work? It seems like a cool feature but I wonder how long I can run something (i.e. a TV while tailgating) without draining the car's battery. Along the same lines, I discovered the "party mode" button and I wonder how long I can play music without running down the battery. I have the unfortunate burden of being a Redskins fan so the pre-game entertainment in the stadium parking lot is usually a lot more fun than watching the team lose inside the stadium. It'd be awesome to be able to blast some tunes or watch the earlier game that day with friends, but I sure wouldn't want to be stranded with a dead battery after the game.
 
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Oh yeah, here is the car!

Just about to leave the dealership last night:

fPDhyON.jpg


Before work this morning:

IAffJFX.jpg


77JPJHk.jpg
 

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