2016 4Runner Trail Premium won't start, advice?

[Cytronus]

Hey guys, I started up my 2016 4Runner Trail yesterday, backed it out of the garage, installed brackets for the ARB dual air compressor, isolator and sPOD but did not hook up any electronics or wiring, just brackets in preparation for the accessory install.

When I got back in the car, it wouldn't start. I pulled and checked every fuse both inside the cabin and under the hood. The 15 Amp "P/OUTLET" fuse in the cabin was blown. I replaced it. Still, the car won't start. It turns over and all electrical systems inside work fine. Headlights are fine. I may have lightly bumped the MAF plug near the air box but not so sure that's it.

I unplugged the negative terminal for 35 minutes to see if a reset would work but it didn't.

I'm thinking perhaps it's a relay issue. Any ideas guys? Thanks in advance for any ideas or advice.

Best,
Dave

 

[Antman]

Hey guys, I started up my 2016 4Runner Trail yesterday, backed it out of the garage, installed brackets for the ARB dual air compressor, isolator and sPOD but did not hook up any electronics or wiring, just brackets in preparation for the accessory install.

When I got back in the car, it wouldn't start. I pulled and checked every fuse both inside the cabin and under the hood. The 15 Amp "P/OUTLET" fuse in the cabin was blown. I replaced it. Still, the car won't start. It turns over and all electrical systems inside work fine. Headlights are fine. I may have lightly bumped the MAF plug near the air box but not so sure that's it.

I unplugged the negative terminal for 35 minutes to see if a reset would work but it didn't.

I'm thinking perhaps it's a relay issue. Any ideas guys? Thanks in advance for any ideas or advice.

Best,
Dave

Look for blown fuses in the underhood fuse box. One of them has gone kaplooey.

 

[ChowChilla]

Hey guys, I started up my 2016 4Runner Trail yesterday, backed it out of the garage, installed brackets for the ARB dual air compressor, isolator and sPOD but did not hook up any electronics or wiring, just brackets in preparation for the accessory install.

When I got back in the car, it wouldn't start. I pulled and checked every fuse both inside the cabin and under the hood. The 15 Amp "P/OUTLET" fuse in the cabin was blown. I replaced it. Still, the car won't start. It turns over and all electrical systems inside work fine. Headlights are fine. I may have lightly bumped the MAF plug near the air box but not so sure that's it.

I unplugged the negative terminal for 35 minutes to see if a reset would work but it didn't.

I'm thinking perhaps it's a relay issue. Any ideas guys? Thanks in advance for any ideas or advice.

Best,
Dave

Recheck all you work.... you MIGHT have accidentally drilled through a wire-harness when installed your equipment . Also did the blown fuse blow again after trying to restart it? If so check that line.

 

[Cytronus]

No drilling was done. I used only factory threaded holes on the fenders so that wasn't the problem. The 15 amp fuse that was blown is still good even after having turned the car over several times so that circuit is not shorting.

I checked again all fuses under the hood and in the cabin. Everything looks good. I guess the next step is to get the voltmeter out and check every single relay. Bummer.

 

[1engineer]

No drilling was done. I used only factory threaded holes on the fenders so that wasn't the problem. The 15 amp fuse that was blown is still good even after having turned the car over several times so that circuit is not shorting.

I checked again all fuses under the hood and in the cabin. Everything looks good. I guess the next step is to get the voltmeter out and check every single relay. Bummer.

Out of gas?

 

[Cytronus]

Problem solved!

OBD2 sensor read off a MAF low voltage code. The sensor was fine, turned out it was the connector plug on the fender wall. The white locking lever was in the unlocked position. Simply pushed it up all the way and the car started right up. I will note, the connector plug there was fully, tightly connected. The white locking lever either has it's own sensor or it pulled the connectors together less than a mm to ensure a good connecting. That thing is touchy.

Here's a photo of the connector with the white lever in the locked, correct position for reference. Hope this helps someone else.

 

[Antman]

OBD2 sensor read off a MAF low voltage code. The sensor was fine, turned out it was the connector plug on the fender wall. The white locking lever was in the unlocked position. Simply pushed it up all the way and the car started right up. I will note, the connector plug there was fully, tightly connected. The white locking lever either has it's own sensor or it pulled the connectors together less than a mm to ensure a good connecting. That thing is touchy.

Here's a photo of the connector with the white lever in the locked, correct position for reference. Hope this helps someone else.

Thanks for posting the solution, not everyone does. :yo: