2016 Pro Front Strut Removal

willie2323

willie2323

New member
Greetings Everyone,
I do not like the nose-down appearance of the 4runner (even the Pro has some nose-down). There appear to be two solutions to this problem, one with a half inch spacer added under the coil spring, the other with a half inch spacer added on top of the strut assy. I elected to go with the spacer on top of the strut assy. The directions that come with this (cornfed) spacer appear to be directed to the non Pro as they say simply remove the strut (after all the usual work) with pressure down on the UCA...man I tried even with a lever arm to get the UCA/LCA to go low enough to remove the strut, couldnt do it.
Can someone that has performed this removal/spacer addition help me with the process?
I did spend a lot of time researching strut removal but cant find anything on the Pro strut removal...apologies if it is there and my anal search routine didnt get me there :-)
thanx in advance all,
cheers,
Willie in Phoenix
 
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It's the same procedure regardless of whether it is a Pro or not. You might try disconnecting the sway bar link to see if that gives you a little more play. People are putting 3" taller struts in there using the same procedure. You may just need to try more oomph.
 
Id like to do this as well however not very experienced are there any instructions or youtube videos anywhere?
 
I'm doing a lift tomorrow if you want I can take pictures of the process while I'm doing it. [MENTION=142781]ram3010[/MENTION] I'm north of LA and I've worked on a few 5th gens now if you need help.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
There's a good write up in Antman's thread on here. One suggestion that a lot of the tutorials don't mention...It's worth it to unbolt the sway bar from the frame so it's not in the way.
 
side note. 1/2 top hat spacer is going to add an inch of fullly extended down travel... That may be too much for the stock UCAs to deal with. I don't know for sure though... Also, the studs/bolts may not be long enough at that point.


As far as removal goes. You can typically get them out without removing a bunch of stuff, but it becomes much easier when you disconnect the swaybar links and tie rod ends. Get someone to stand on the hub to push the LCA down a bit. The bushing will fight you at first since the suspension never droops that far.
 
JSparky said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bbsTJgb6S_c
Click to expand...

likely won't work in this instance because you've going to have to compress the spring to get everything to go back together, and the stock UCA's won't offer anywhere near the degree of droop to allow you to re-attach the steering knuckle as those ones from Total Chaos. having done a lot of front end suspension work on these trucks I'm amazed they were able to get that Fox in the vid to slide in like that.
 
ram3010 said:
[MENTION=109205]mwray8909[/MENTION] mind if I join to learn and give you a hand while I'm there?
Click to expand...
If you'd like to that's fine with me. I'm sorry im just seeing this. I'll PM you my number.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
mwray8909 said:
I'm doing a lift tomorrow if you want I can take pictures of the process while I'm doing it. [MENTION=142781]ram3010[/MENTION] I'm north of LA and I've worked on a few 5th gens now if you need help.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

You have been busy helping a lot of others with the lifts. That is awesome of you.
 
willie2323 said:
Greetings Everyone,
I do not like the nose-down appearance of the 4runner (even the Pro has some nose-down). There appear to be two solutions to this problem, one with a half inch spacer added under the coil spring, the other with a half inch spacer added on top of the strut assy. I elected to go with the spacer on top of the strut assy. The directions that come with this (cornfed) spacer appear to be directed to the non Pro as they say simply remove the strut (after all the usual work) with pressure down on the UCA...man I tried even with a lever arm to get the UCA/LCA to go low enough to remove the strut, couldnt do it.
Can someone that has performed this removal/spacer addition help me with the process?
I did spend a lot of time researching strut removal but cant find anything on the Pro strut removal...apologies if it is there and my anal search routine didnt get me there :-)
thanx in advance all,
cheers,
Willie in Phoenix
Click to expand...

I will add my 2 cents.

I do not believe adding a spacer will do much for your nose dive. The Pro has taller but softer coil overs than the basic 4Runner. The only way to eliminate it or tune it down would be to install stiffer springs and shocks.

I have Toytech 2.5 coil overs with 650 Lb springs and while it greatly improved my Trail Premium it didn't completely remove the dive. You just have to change your driving habits. I am only posting this so you don't get your hopes up that a spacer will solve your problem.
 
I have a pro as well and made measurements from floor to fender well as well as center of hub to fender well on the front and read of the truck. From my calculation there's an 1 1/2" difference from front to rear having that rake.

I elected to have an Icon stage 2 installed purchase from Total Automotive Performance which had the best deal around. After the install the difference is 5/8" front to rear. Now she looks level. Not really sure if this info might help.

I was tempted to do the wok myself but was afraid I'd hit a roadblock and not get it done and I'd be stuck without a vehicle till I completed the job.
 
I used a prybar and sat on it, lol.

It's easier to just mark the locations of the LCA adjusters with a sharpie and loosen the LCA bolts, The arm will swing dow freely. After your done align the marks and re-tighten. You will need a new alignment anyway after the lift, but this will get you close...
 
TK-422 said:
You have been busy helping a lot of others with the lifts. That is awesome of you.
Click to expand...
Why not let some of the guys and gals learn how to wrench in their own rig. It'll make wheeling that much more enjoyable because they will have that confidence in knowing theyear can fix a thing or two if needed. Also I can do it for less then a shop.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Loosen the lower control arm cam bolts. The arm will drop down and you will have no problem putting strut in. That's what I had to do especially if your working without a helper.
 
mcm said:
I have a pro as well and made measurements from floor to fender well as well as center of hub to fender well on the front and read of the truck. From my calculation there's an 1 1/2" difference from front to rear having that rake.

I elected to have an Icon stage 2 installed purchase from Total Automotive Performance which had the best deal around. After the install the difference is 5/8" front to rear. Now she looks level. Not really sure if this info might help.

I was tempted to do the wok myself but was afraid I'd hit a roadblock and not get it done and I'd be stuck without a vehicle till I completed the job.
Click to expand...

Thank you all for your inputs!!
Yup, I didnt measure other than the floor to fender up front to see if I would get the 1 inch rise with the spacer. Good input on hitting a road block...hehe, I sure did and had everything apart, good thing its not my daily driver, just got it all back together.
Also good inputs on tearing it down. All youtube stuff showed either/or both disconnecting the tie rods and UCA. I was hesitant on both as the directions from cornfed was not to disconnect and I did not want to face an alignment with a simple change to the front. Also the input above on the UCA having to drop an additional 1 inch was something I overlooked (was just aware of the extra half inch needed in the shock). I dont believe, as was mentioned above, I had an additional 1 inch of travel in the UCA downward without hitting the springs.
This is a GREAT forum!!

cheers,
Willie
 
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