EEEliminator
Member
I have the same tires 285 KO2s and rub a little on the front bumper and inner fender at full lock. Nothing on the body mount though, I have stock UCAs and the Eibiach 2.75" lift.
285s rubbing BMC or alignment fix?
- Thread starter YellowSnow
- Start date
I have the same tires 285 KO2s and rub a little on the front bumper and inner fender at full lock. Nothing on the body mount though, I have stock UCAs and the Eibiach 2.75" lift.
Surgical Precision
New member
Metal Tech Plates
I went with the metal tech plates. Had a reputable shop in Bozeman, MT (Dark Horse Customs) do the BMC with placement of these plates for just under $200. Provides all the clearance you need and unless you know what you are looking for looks stock. Here are two photos. Don't mind the mud, been out with the rig in the snow/mud.
I went with the metal tech plates. Had a reputable shop in Bozeman, MT (Dark Horse Customs) do the BMC with placement of these plates for just under $200. Provides all the clearance you need and unless you know what you are looking for looks stock. Here are two photos. Don't mind the mud, been out with the rig in the snow/mud.
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thevanillagorilla
New member
You'll want to do the BMC. I have the Ray10s as well with 285s and a 2.5" lift and had horrendous rubbing on the body mount. Just go for it...
83Mule
New member
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=322509&stc=1&d=1546225983 All you need to do the BMC is a sawzall, black spraypaint, and 20 minutes. Don't need a welder at all.
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83Mule
New member
All you need to do the BMC is a sawzall, black spraypaint, and 20 minutes. Don't need a welder at all. https://www.toyota-4runner.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=322511&stc=1&d=1546226378
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oobaa47
New member
Yellowsnow, I am in the exact same situation with same set up.......falken 285's with Ray 10's (have jba uca's and toytech lift) .......pushed fender liner forward, removed mudflaps, and trimmed bumper......I get rub on the body mount at full lock reverse. The shop that did it, said come back after a few hundred miles once it settles. Unfortunately, I never got a chance to go back there and now it's been thousands of miles. So I'm not sure if they're going to charge me extra for this. But in all reality, they probably should have noticed the rubbing after they completed the work, as I'm sure lift settling has nothing to do with it because it was rubbing right in the beginning.....
YellowSnow
Banned
I’m getting chopped this week. I even trimmed off the worthless tabs that stick out by the fender coping. I’m still scratching my head at how poorly the mount cover plate is designed, and how unnecessary it is to stick that far out.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
100% poor alignment. I was running a 295/70/17 Ridge Grappler on 1.5" lift with no BMC and no rubbing. All I did was the fender liner mod. You need more caster which you want at about 4* when aligned properly.
YellowSnow
Banned
The problem is ride quality...the further you go forward, essentially adding more caster, that’s what causes darting and road vibes. My alignment is perfect, performed by RPM Garage in So Cal, and this topic has been beaten to death. No two rigs are alike as someone can be running the exact same set up and not rub at all...while others will rub. So the blanket statements you guys are making are simply ridiculous. And pushing the caster all the way forward just to avoid rubbing and sacrificing ride quality, uneven wear etc. instead of spending $200 for a professional BMC, just doesn’t make sense.
I believe it has to be the wheel offset. I read engineer1’s thread and decided on konig six shooters in 17 because they met the requirements he set forward for offset and backspace. 285/70-17 duratracs and no rub after simply removing mudflaps and fender liner mod. Doesnt come within 1/4 inch of body mount even at full compression offroad. I know they are all different, but they generally respond similar to similar paramaters. Good luck. Nice truck btw.
2016 4Runner SR5
Senior Member
Other way around. At about 4* you correct the darting issue, following road crown issue, your ride quality is about as good as it can be at the 3.5*-4* mark.
83Mule
New member
Just for information.....the mount is designed not for the actual Grommet, but as an extension made in high strength steel for an offset crash which causes wheel intrusion into the footwell area. The HSS also means there is no need for welding it up, it is beyond strong enough for the body mount itself!
hone:
YellowSnow
Banned
I got that, but why would I risk running caster to the limit just to clear the body mount, when i can just chop it?
YellowSnow
Banned
Just for information.....the mount is designed not for the actual Grommet, but as an extension made in high strength steel for an offset crash which causes wheel intrusion into the footwell area. The HSS also means there is no need for welding it up, it is beyond strong enough for the body mount itself!
Good information...which is why everyone just does the BMC, because it doesn’t impact the integrity of the structure.
YellowSnow
Banned
Lolz...thanks, but you should properly stick to posting twice a year. SPCs on my rig....good one
matoolie
New member
I have 285 Wildpeaks without any rubbing on the body mount. I would guess the root cause is the wheels. Different wheels would resolve issue but at higher cost. Don’t sacrifice alignment.....have the BMC done as it’s cheapest and easiest solution at this point, which it seems to be your path.
